Lube getting in the crimp groove.

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  • Last Post 17 October 2015
Pigslayer posted this 07 September 2015

Am having an issue with lube getting in the crimp groove while sizing my bullets for my .44 Special. If I adjust my sizer so that the lube does not get into the crimp groove then I find that my forward driving band does not get sized to the correct diameter (.432").  It will run a little short.      My solution to that is to tap the uppermost lube holes in the die to 8-32 & screw in a brass set screw that is (of course) 8-32 thread by 1/8” long. A 1/8” long set screw should be short enough so as to not interfere with the movement of the internal push rod.   `   I tried driving in a lead slug into the upper lube holes to inhibit the flow of lubricant into the uppermost holes but all it did was to push the slug in & repeatedly shear small amounts of the slug off until it was gone . . . drat!      Oh well, problem solved!   Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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RicinYakima posted this 07 September 2015

There is no logic behind where lube ports are positioned, seems to be wimsey of the machinists.

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delmarskid1 posted this 07 September 2015

Were they hard to tap? I thought those dies were pretty hard.

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pat i. posted this 07 September 2015

Pat when I've had this problem I just took some shot (can't remember what size but that shouldn't be hard too figure out) and pounded it into the uppermost holes like a rivet. Worked like a charm and only takes a minute.

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Pigslayer posted this 07 September 2015

delmarskid1 wrote: Were they hard to tap? I thought those dies were pretty hard.I haven't tapped them yet. I just came up with my brainstorm last night. I figured that if the set screw on my Lyman #45 can make a dent in them when tightened then they can't be too hard.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 07 September 2015

pat i. wrote: Pat when I've had this problem I just took some shot (can't remember what size but that shouldn't be hard too figure out) and pounded it into the uppermost holes like a rivet. Worked like a charm and only takes a minute. I think that my problem with the lead not staying in place was due to using Carnuba Red without heat and the additional pressure needed to push that lube wound up pushing the lead slug in. As warm as it's been I haven't needed the heater.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 07 September 2015

delmarskid1 wrote: Were they hard to tap? I thought those dies were pretty hard. Whoops! You're right . . . to dang hard! Drat again! Think I'll look for a RCBS die as they only have one set of holes and I think they are lower too.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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tlkeizer posted this 07 September 2015

Greetings,

Piglayer, have you tried sizing without lubing, then pan lubing? A little extra time, but might be worth while if your sizer works without lubing and the lube works pan lubing. Just a thought.

TK

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 07 September 2015

tlkeizer wrote: Greetings,

Piglayer, have you tried sizing without lubing, then pan lubing? A little extra time, but might be worth while if your sizer works without lubing and the lube works pan lubing. Just a thought.

TK Hmmmm.  I LIKE to dip lube and push through size (lee and my own home-made).  It allows me to cast, lube and size in one sitting.  Dipping to only a specific depth is possible, but excess lube usually gets into a few higher grooves.

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pat i. posted this 07 September 2015

Pigslayer wrote: I think that my problem with the lead not staying in place was due to using Carnuba Red without heat and the additional pressure needed to push that lube wound up pushing the lead slug in. As warm as it's been I haven't needed the heater. Pat I'm pretty sure I used #2 shot and when you tap it in just leave a little head on the outside like in the picture and it won't come out or push through even using LBT Blue and no heater which is pretty stiff stuff. These plugs have been in there for years and you'll save some money. Someone you know must have an old #2 shot shell laying around. Leave the pin in the die when you're tapping them in.

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delmarskid1 posted this 08 September 2015

pat i. wrote: Pigslayer wrote: I think that my problem with the lead not staying in place was due to using Carnuba Red without heat and the additional pressure needed to push that lube wound up pushing the lead slug in. As warm as it's been I haven't needed the heater. Pat I'm pretty sure I used #2 shot and when you tap it in just leave a little head on the outside like in the picture and it won't come out or push through even using LBT Blue and no heater which is pretty stiff stuff. These plugs have been in there for years and you'll save some money. Someone you know must have an old #2 shot shell laying around. Leave the pin in the die when you're tapping them in.This has worked for me as well.

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admiral posted this 09 September 2015

yup, lead shot to plug the holes

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Pigslayer posted this 09 September 2015

Thanks guys. Gonna give it a try!

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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sansarc posted this 17 October 2015

I have found lubri/sizer dies not to be hard at all.  I have opened up several with big box off the shelf drills and then bored out to finished larger sizes.         When blocking lube holes, use a counter sinking bit and slightly chamfer holes.  When shot is pounded in (with bullet ejector in place) they will take the shape of a flared head rivet and resist lube pressure.

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