22 Hornet Brass

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  • Last Post 03 January 2017
10Speed posted this 22 December 2016

A couple of years ago, I got a Savage Model 25 in 22 Hornet.  I have had it to the range and enjoy it.

I started collecting new factory brass, dies, bullets, powder, a NOE 225107 37gr FN GC etc. for reloading.

I decapped the brass from factory loads I shot with my Lee Universal decapping die.  I ran into a problem with small flash holes in the of the brass to the extent that it pulled the decapping pin out of the rod.  After several occurences of this, I chucked the rod/pin in my electric drill and turned the pin down, although I still got a “sticker” or two once in a while.

I searched and found that SAAMI diameter for small rifle/pistol flash holes is allegedly 0.074” to 0.078".  I say allegedly because I have not been able to find this information on the SAAMI website. 

So, I went out and bought a #48 drill (0.076"), a 5/64” drill (0.078"), and a little t-handle tap wrench to drill the flash holes.  I have not drilled the flash holes yet.  Question #1:  Is there any reason that I would NOT want to drill the flash holes?

I bought several different kinds of dies including standard Lee dies, Lee collet die, Lyman M-die for the Hornet.  I have been loading straight-wall rounds (380ACP, 9mm, 38/357, 44 Magnum, and 45ACP) with cast and jacketed bullets for a number of years, but I have never loaded a bottle-neck case before and certainly none as thin as the Hornet is reputed to be.  I'm guessing that I should full-length size new, factory brass before I proceed with hand loading.  Question #2:  Should I full-length resize new unfired brass?

Since I have only one chamber in the Hornet, I plan to use the collet die to neck size fired brass.

I haven't loaded any rounds for the Hornet yet, as I want to do it right the first time and need some sage advice.  Also, I haven't cast anything yet.  I'm still “smelting” range scrap, and I have clip-on wheel weights yet to smelt.  Sooner or later, I'll get brave enough to cast.

I'll take all the help I can get and be glad of it.  Thanks.

 

 

 

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R. Dupraz posted this 23 December 2016

Have a fair supply of new Winchester Hornet brass that I bought some years ago to reform for My K Hornet. And have reloaded and shot a bunch of K's since with nary a problem shooting or decapping.

 

Just measured the flash holes on some of that new Hornet brass. A #47 drill- .0785” is just a barely sloppy fit in the FH's

and  #46-.0810” is a nice snugg slidding one. So guess that tells me that my new Win. Hornet brass has.0810” flash holes. According to what I have and iffn it was me, I wouldn't worry about it if I stayed at .0810".or below.

 

As for your second question, I always fL size new brass. FL sizing uniforms them all and iron's out any dents etc that the brass may have acquired...  .

 

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Eddie Southgate posted this 23 December 2016

Buy the flash hole deburing tool that Lyman sells . It removes the burr left inside the case from punching the pocket and makes all the flash holes the correct size .

 I fl resize new cases and size only as much neck as it takes to seat my bullet to the depth I want after the first firing .  Fl size again if your loads start fitting too tight , In a straight Hornet I suggest you always use a small pistol primer . Try whatever load you decide to use with a SR first then try the same load with the SP and you will see why I only use the SP in my Hornet .

Eddie

 

Grumpy Old Man With A Gun......Do Not Touch .

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SierraHunter posted this 23 December 2016

I second getting a flash holes deburing tool. What brand cases do you have that have too small for flash holes? I have only seen this problem on European hornet cases before.

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10Speed posted this 23 December 2016

I second getting a flash holes deburing tool. What brand cases do you have that have too small for flash holes? I have only seen this problem on European hornet cases before.
It has been a while since I worked on this project, so I checked my notes.  I encountered small flash holes with S & B and with Hornady once-fired brass.  The flash holes were not too small on all of either brand of brass, but there were enough instances that I had to address the issue.

 

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SierraHunter posted this 23 December 2016

S&B is one I remember having problems with. I've never used Hornady 22 hornet cases.

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fa38 posted this 24 December 2016

 

<<<<I decapped the brass from factory loads I shot with my Lee Universal decapping die.  I ran into a problem with small flash holes in the of the brass to the extent that it pulled the decapping pin out of the rod.  After several occurences of this, I chucked the rod/pin in my electric drill and turned the pin down, although I still got a “sticker” or two once in a while.

I searched and found that SAAMI diameter for small rifle/pistol flash holes is allegedly 0.074” to 0.078".  I say allegedly because I have not been able to find this information on the SAAMI website. 

So, I went out and bought a #48 drill (0.076"), a 5/64” drill (0.078"), and a little t-handle tap wrench to drill the flash holes.  I have not drilled the flash holes yet.  Question #1:  Is there any reason that I would NOT want to drill the flash holes?>>>>


Some brass from overseas is made with a smaller flash hole.  The Lapua 6.5x47 Lapua and probably any of their brass that use small rifle primers have the smaller flash hole. 

I had some Herters .222 mag brass that would pull the decap pin out of my sizing dies.  At the time I had no clue as to why and drilled the out to a larger size. This was back in the late 70's


K&M sells two different size flash hole uniformers, an .062 and a .080.


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Mike H posted this 24 December 2016

A couple of years ago, I got a Savage Model 25 in 22 Hornet.  I have had it to the range and enjoy it.

I started collecting new factory brass, dies, bullets, powder, a NOE 225107 37gr FN GC etc. for reloading.

I decapped the brass from factory loads I shot with my Lee Universal decapping die.  I ran into a problem with small flash holes in the of the brass to the extent that it pulled the decapping pin out of the rod.  After several occurences of this, I chucked the rod/pin in my electric drill and turned the pin down, although I still got a “sticker” or two once in a while.

I searched and found that SAAMI diameter for small rifle/pistol flash holes is allegedly 0.074” to 0.078".  I say allegedly because I have not been able to find this information on the SAAMI website. 

So, I went out and bought a #48 drill (0.076"), a 5/64” drill (0.078"), and a little t-handle tap wrench to drill the flash holes.  I have not drilled the flash holes yet.  Question #1:  Is there any reason that I would NOT want to drill the flash holes?

I bought several different kinds of dies including standard Lee dies, Lee collet die, Lyman M-die for the Hornet.  I have been loading straight-wall rounds (380ACP, 9mm, 38/357, 44 Magnum, and 45ACP) with cast and jacketed bullets for a number of years, but I have never loaded a bottle-neck case before and certainly none as thin as the Hornet is reputed to be.  I'm guessing that I should full-length size new, factory brass before I proceed with hand loading.  Question #2:  Should I full-length resize new unfired brass?

Since I have only one chamber in the Hornet, I plan to use the collet die to neck size fired brass.

I haven't loaded any rounds for the Hornet yet, as I want to do it right the first time and need some sage advice.  Also, I haven't cast anything yet.  I'm still “smelting” range scrap, and I have clip-on wheel weights yet to smelt.  Sooner or later, I'll get brave enough to cast.

I'll take all the help I can get and be glad of it.  Thanks.

 

I would leave the flash holes as the manufacturer made them,Lapua makes small diameter flash holes in their cases with small rifle primers,good enough for me. 

 

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reggleston posted this 24 December 2016

A couple of years ago, I got a Savage Model 25 in 22 Hornet.  I have had it to the range and enjoy it.

I started collecting new factory brass, dies, bullets, powder, a NOE 225107 37gr FN GC etc. for reloading.

I decapped the brass from factory loads I shot with my Lee Universal decapping die.  I ran into a problem with small flash holes in the of the brass to the extent that it pulled the decapping pin out of the rod.  After several occurences of this, I chucked the rod/pin in my electric drill and turned the pin down, although I still got a “sticker” or two once in a while.

I searched and found that SAAMI diameter for small rifle/pistol flash holes is allegedly 0.074” to 0.078".  I say allegedly because I have not been able to find this information on the SAAMI website. 

So, I went out and bought a #48 drill (0.076"), a 5/64” drill (0.078"), and a little t-handle tap wrench to drill the flash holes.  I have not drilled the flash holes yet.  Question #1:  Is there any reason that I would NOT want to drill the flash holes?

I bought several different kinds of dies including standard Lee dies, Lee collet die, Lyman M-die for the Hornet.  I have been loading straight-wall rounds (380ACP, 9mm, 38/357, 44 Magnum, and 45ACP) with cast and jacketed bullets for a number of years, but I have never loaded a bottle-neck case before and certainly none as thin as the Hornet is reputed to be.  I'm guessing that I should full-length size new, factory brass before I proceed with hand loading.  Question #2:  Should I full-length resize new unfired brass?

Since I have only one chamber in the Hornet, I plan to use the collet die to neck size fired brass.

I haven't loaded any rounds for the Hornet yet, as I want to do it right the first time and need some sage advice.  Also, I haven't cast anything yet.  I'm still “smelting” range scrap, and I have clip-on wheel weights yet to smelt.  Sooner or later, I'll get brave enough to cast.

I'll take all the help I can get and be glad of it.  Thanks.

 

 

 

R D Eggleston

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reggleston posted this 24 December 2016

Have Been reloading and shooting 22hornets for almost 20 years now. Currently using new Hornady brass, the flash hole will accept a #47 .078” diameter drill while the #46 drill .081 won't pass thru. My new Lee die set Decapping pin measures .071” diameter so have no problem with any sticking or tight decapping situations.

Have not checked PPU or Win brass flash holes diameter in their brass. All 3 hornet rifles I own and shoot also do great with SP primers. Typically I have found Hornady brass is a litter tighter on dimensions than other brass. I would certainly check the diameter of the decapping pin on your universal decap die. If it is grossly oversize that could be your problem and would be worth replacing.

I usually don't FL resize new brass unless there is a neck dent or other deformity issue. By all means chamfer an expand the neck ID  prior to loading to facilitate cast bullet entry. Just recently purchased the 37 gr NOE 22cal mold but don't have enough experience yet to come to any conclusion.

Best accuracy with my hornets so far is with the Lyman #225438 45 gr and Lee 55Gr FP bullets. Favorite load for the Lyman 45gr bullet is 10 gr IMR4227, shoots 1.75” group at 100 yds using SP primers and chrono's at 2,453 FPS

R D Eggleston

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10Speed posted this 24 December 2016

 I checked my notes again.  According to my measurements with a caliper, the original diameter of the pin on my universal decapper was 0.062".  I measured a pin on another Lee die a minute ago, and it was 0.062” as well.  This is consistent with something I read (somewhere?) that Lee pins are 1/16".  I don't have a micrometer.  Hoping that Santa will give me one.  The pin on the universal decapper I turned down in my drill with emery paper was 0.0605".

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Eddie Southgate posted this 24 December 2016

MikeH  ,      Every single bench rest competition shooter I have ever known uses these tools mentioned to equalize flash holes and to remove the burr left inside of cases with punched primer pockets and flash holes . Lapua , Sako , and Norna all use machined pockets and flash holes and do not have the burr but even on those I still run the guide portion of the tool through the hole to be sure they are all the same size . I do not compete in bench rest myself but have learned many good lessons from those who do .

 

Eddie

Grumpy Old Man With A Gun......Do Not Touch .

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OU812 posted this 25 December 2016

Remington 22 Hornet brass is a little thinner and has more case volume than all others. The old discontinued Winchester 680 powder is the best powder to load the Hornet with.

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Eddie Southgate posted this 25 December 2016

Remington 22 Hornet brass is a little thinner and has more case volume than all others. The old discontinued Winchester 680 powder is the best powder to load the Hornet with.

 

Yup ! I still got two pounds I guard with my life . Littlegun is really just about as good .

Eddie

 

Grumpy Old Man With A Gun......Do Not Touch .

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10Speed posted this 26 December 2016

Apparently, Santa and Larry Potterfield are somehow related, as Santa bestowed on me some bucks to spend at Midway USA.  Among other things, I ordered a K&M P.rofessional Flash Hole Uniformer PPC 0.062” today.  As I understand what I've read here and on the K&M website, this tool will deburr, chamfer, and ream out the flash hole to 0.062", which should work.

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10Speed posted this 31 December 2016

 Some brass from overseas is made with a smaller flash hole.  The Lapua 6.5x47 Lapua and probably any of their brass that use small rifle primers have the smaller flash hole. 

I had some Herters .222 mag brass that would pull the decap pin out of my sizing dies.  At the time I had no clue as to why and drilled the out to a larger size. This was back in the late 70's


K&M sells two different size flash hole uniformers, an .062 and a .080.


I got my K&M PPC 0.062” tool.  I worked over some S&B once-fired brass and got a good bit of “stuff” out after using the tool.  Also, I worked 100 PPU new cases.  They appeared to be smoother on the inside than the S&B, but I worked all of them.

Thanks for the tip on the tool, and thanks to all who replied.  Happy New Year, good casting, and good shooting!

 

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JSH posted this 31 December 2016

Bare with me as this is my first go at posting on the new format.

As to “match” prepping brass. I have tried it all at so me time or another with FACTORY chamberings, with various results. The one thing I did find that helped across the board when cases were involved. All trimmed to an equal length. All from same lot # helped. Full match prep,weighed, trimmed,necks shaved enough just to true them up and flash holes deburred showed little if any improvement. This was in factory chamberings. The only way to find out what works is to do one thing at a time. I have had guns that didn't respond to cleaning up neck thickness. So,that lead me to reform a parent case knowing I would have to neck turn. Which gave me complete control over neck thickness. Some responded some didn't. I have spent a lot of time at the bench working on cases when I could have been shooting and ending up with the same results. Of course YMMV. I relate it to hotrodding cars, 10” slicks don't make it a race car.
Jeff

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Bud Hyett posted this 03 January 2017

You simply may be the victim of a worn primer punch. I think LAPUA is the only company that drills out flash oles and then only on their “BR” cses since it is an added expense. I may be wrong on who does the drilled flash holes. 

My research:

  • The “standard” size for a flash hole that I have found is .081..
  • I have found specifications for .076 on “BR” (Benchrest) cares.
  • However, these are not published as official, only standard.  

With the flash holes being punched out, and the machine not closely monitored, it is best to check the flash hole in virgin brass with a number 46 drill. Simply insert to feel a slight resistance for a slip fit. You can tell if the flash hle is small and drill out to .081 as needed. I have done this to uniform several different case lots in various calibers. 

If this is virgin brass, full length size and then fire-form, the case. There Is greater disparity between the .22 Hornet chamber and .22 Hornet brass than most any other case. After fire-forming, then only neck-size.

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 03 January 2017

....consider for best consistency to sort 22 hornet brass ....to include rim thickness .... i suspect hornet brass varies more than desirable  in dimensions ..... when i set my rechambered hornet to bump on bolt closing ... 0 head clearance ... i now have to pre-test my cases before loading new brass ... who woulda thought ??

ken

 

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