I am a sucker for elixirs to remove bore fouling even though I usually can't tell much difference in how well they work except for lead removers which don't seem to work at all.
I see there is a new one being advertised - “NO LEAD” brushless lead remover from wipe-out. “Dissolves lead without brushing,maximum strength, easy to apply, safe to use."
Has anybody tried it?
Is there a solvent that will remove leading?
John
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I have used Wipe Out in a few bores. It seems to work. It DOES harm oil rubbed stocks though! It stained one of my varmint rifle stocks and I haven't been able to remove the stain. There are a couple ne “foaming” bore cleaners out now. One of them states"Do not get product in the action", I guess I will NEVER find out if that one works! There MAY be some other things that you can do to prevent leading in your bores. I get very little leading with my loads, and it isn't to hard to remove.
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There is no chemical available to remove lead flash coated to iron that would be safe and legal to sell for home use that would not also corroded the iron.
But with that said, if the lead is deposited over a coating of burned oil, grease or carbon fouling, you can use a high penatating liquid to lift the lead away from the iron. Kerosene and peppermint oil are two very good agents for this.
HTH, Ric
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I recently contacted Lone Wolf barrel company and asked them what to use to get lead out of a barrel. They recommended Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth. I bought some and used it on a Glock barrel that I leaded and was unable to get the lead out even after putting my brush in a cordless drill. The cloth worked great. It was easy and left the bore shinny and clean.
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Jimlakeside,
Your are right on with my experience. I have used BC's and Midway's abrasive cloths' for years. They appear to be about 1400 grit and wrapped around a smaller sized bore brush very effective. The grit appears to be harder than lead, and blueing, but softer than chrome moly steel.
Of course, reverse plating with the Outer's Foul-Out II is 100 % effective, if slow and not the easiest to use. Followed with about 25 stokes of polishing cloth, does the best that I know of for effective use.
Ric
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Heh heh, that reminds me, an idiot-savant friend of mine came up with something that embarassed the rest of our little group::
He poured out about 1/2 of a wide mouth bottle of Birchwood Casey Lead Remover, and stuffed about 20 abrasive cloth patches ( pre cut ) into the rest of the bottle.
Belt and Suspenders, there you go .... too dang simple for us telligent experienced people to come up with.
In My Experience, the abrasive cloths are terrific in taking out most of the lead ... might even take out all you need to take out ... but they still do no remove * ALL * the lead, down to bare metal.
...... also I gotta mention, if you are settling for fun easy to load 2 moa groups, you might consider playing with moly additive to your “lube/conditioner” ... just to hold down leading .. ( you will still usually find leading in that little ring right in front of your case neck, however, that might help accuracy, many just leave it alone ... ) ...
....... There is some evidence that moly additives are slightly detrimental to extreme accuracy, defined by me as a whole big bunch of groups under 1/2 moa ... (g) .... but if you are shooting in that category, you need to be * GIVING * advice here, not asking for other's experiences.
If you get into the Moly User's Defensive Group ( as I am )... (g) ... watch for a possible drawback in that it might give less initial ignition ( usually bad ) .. because it engraves the bullet more smootherly, .... you might need more, or faster powder, and a hotter primer, or slightly enlarging primer flash holes ... 0.080 or so final dia. should do it ...
With moly use, I moly up the barrel first with a moly patch, then shoot forever with moly on bullets, and at the end of the day, a patch or two with ( ATF, Kroil ER would work ... ) and a final patch with a corrosion-fighter wetter of your choice. Moly does not have strong anti-corrosion properties. I never clean down to shiny steel, once you decide to follow the Moly Trail. I guess I should mention that moly use is still being debated; results ( or reports of rumored results ) vary greatly.
just some trivia, ken campbell,iowa
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Smootherly???
Is that a word found in the moly users handbook? I dont recall it in websters unabridged...
The best way to get lead out is not to let it get there to begin with.. Of course that isnt always the case.
Properly fitting bullets with good lube and the correct pressure for the alloy being used prevents leading 99% of the time.
I would have to say from my experience that the lube or quality of lube being used has the most effect on preventing leading not as a function of lubrication, but what the lube leaves behind in the barrel that prevents the vaporized lead from adhering to the barrel.
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I don't have any particular problem and like several of you have found the lead out cloth the best solution. I just thought if there was a magic lead remover out there I would like to have some. Seems unlikely since lead is so inert.
I have tried the BC lead remover and could never could tell that it did anything kerosene didn't do just as well.
John
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Be carefull using those lead wipe away products on color case hardened metals. It CAN remove the color case harden also.
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I have found that Brobst JB paste and Kroil do a good job.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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Just bought a M44 in 762X54R of course. Metal is close to 100percent including bore. Got it at a local Gander Mountains and had them run a patch down it and it looks great. When really getting into the bore cleaning so I can shoot some cast boolits thru it the work really began. Tried almost all the solvents in possession including JB bore compound,G96 Lead Removing cloth, a new 8mm bronze brush. I have Ballistol soaking now and plan to leave it in over night. Any suggestions??? The military ammo used in this must have left some serious metal fouling and so far nothing is cutting it including some Kroil soaked for several hours. Are there any forums on the M44's. Mine was made in 1945, country of origin ???serial is 4dxxxxr (a cyrilic type r).Help,,,,afish4570:dude::dude:
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I just started using some stuff called Wipe-Out and it did a great job. Yesterday I did a Springfield and a Marlin and it cleaned them down to the bare metal with no brush work at all. I checked the before and after with a bore scope so I know there was jacket fouling and that it's gone. It comes as a foam or a liquid and supposedly isn't aggresive like Sweets.
Here's their site.
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Butch's Bore Shine does the trick for me. It's listed to get out copper fouling but seems to work with lead as well. It's got a heavy ammonia smell to it and will tear up the finish on the stock if not careful. I've got an “ugly spot” on a hand checkered, extra fancy English walnut stock that saids I'm more mindful of what I'm doing now. If that doesn't get it all I'll follow up with JB.
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Here is my 2-cents,
For copper fouling Wipe-Out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you have a bolt gun then get a bore guide that has an o-ring seal. Use the foam version. Spray it and forget it. Come back in and hour or or so and push a patch or 2 through it. Repeat the application. Do this 2 or 3 times and then leave it in overnight. With the bore guide you don't have to worry about the wood finish or it getting into the action. This product doesn't have a bad smell and will not harm the barrel if left overnight. That you can't say about Barns or Sweets. They scare me.
If you have a semi-auto use the Wipe-Out liquid. With the liquid I use the Accelerator and it seems to speed the process. Don't use a brass or bronze brush with this stuff, as it will eat the brush and you will get a false positive for fouling.
Since I started to use this stuff I now just open my bottle of Hoppes#9 on the bench so the area smells good while I am working.
I have recently bought some of the Lead-Out and the jury is still out. It did clean out the lead from a pistol barrel I had but I haven't had enough experience with it to say everyone should buy some. Initial use seems promising.
Pbbb
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M44 fouled barrel saga continues.....Since the quest started I have soaked the barrel with household ammonia,Kroil, autotransmission fluid and marvel mystery 50/50, Barnes, Shooters Choice, reg & Lead Removing Cloth. The SS brush (30 cal.) AND THE lead removig cloth seem to remove the most. The cloth comes out black each tiHme. I have tried the JB Compound on an brush with Kroil too. Barrel looks almost 100 per cent to the naked eye but still produces black on patches after SS brushing or the lead cloth stunt. What type of fouling am I fighting??? It seems to resist our normal solvents and processes.....:dude::dude:help still needed.afish4570
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The lead removing cloth is treated with chemicals that will always show black against reaction to the steel barrel. The JB does the same thing, some barrels worse than others, stainless hardly any black. You are seeing the chemical reaction, not necessarily fouling.
To see fouling to know exactly, you would need a bore scope. I do not have a bore scope, but am satisfied when my patches come out fairly clean after a scrubbing with a brush and Eds Red. I use JB often in my old factory barrels. You can feel to sandy feeling carbon with a patched jag, but then smooth after JB cleaned.
If your bore is rough in the old bore, a couple of fire lap jacketed bullets in 400 grit would clean it up some. I've leaded barrels up terribly before and Eds Red, a bore brush and JB have always taken it out with little effort........Dan
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M44 fouled barrel saga continues.....
With that one you are probably chasing a dream to see it spotless, bright and shiny. I bought an M-38 off the “clunk and junk” rack at a local shop years ago. The Bore looked not so smooth and was the same color on the inside as out. Also had a shot group to match. Was still one of the best summer projects I ever had. It's now got a turn down bolt, (a reshaped '03 from a junk bolt) and a nice looking stock. After what sounds like your effort to make it look good down the tube, I gave in. It no longer looks or feel ruff, but the color hasn't changed any. Threw all the work the grouping did come to be very respectable, so I'm just going to let it be at that. Chase the deer, not the dream. If it shoots good, it is good. :cool:
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wimilkman
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Aaron
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BRatigan
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