brass cleaning trick

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  • Last Post 07 June 2015
tturner53 posted this 13 January 2011

I picked up a good trick to use when tumbling brass in a Lyman Turbo. I use treated corn cob for media. Tear up a paper towel into maybe 4/5 pieces and throw that in with the load. The paper towel absorbs a lot of crud that would otherwise be in your media or lining your tumbler interior. I should give credit to the guy who wrote the bit for TFS but I can't find which issue it was. One of my winter projects is to sort and clean the two five gallon buckets of range scrap I scrounged last year. It's amazing what people leave behind.

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JetMech posted this 14 January 2011

I started using old dryer fabic softener / anti-static sheets in my tumbler. They collect alot of junk and there's never a shortage of them around my house.

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LWesthoff posted this 14 January 2011

I wrote an article for the Fouling Shot several years ago (don't remember now which issue it appeared in) regarding using torn up strips of paper towel in with the tumbling media. It works very well for prolonging the life of the media, BUT....

As I recounted in the article, one day when I was checking my loading block for double and/or missed charges prior to bullet seating, I discovered what appeared to be a double charge. To condense the story somewhat, it turned out to be NOT extra powder, but a piece of very dirty, wadded-up paper towel which had somehow survived the decapping process. (I decap after cleaning to keep little pieces of media from clogging the flash hole.)

I don't use paper towel strips in my tumbling media any more.

Wes

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Balhincher posted this 15 January 2011

I just read the comments from LWesthoff last night about finding paper towell balls in his tumbled cases.  Today I was loading up some 218 bee cases and noticed that one of them seemed a little fuller than the other nine after throwing the powder charges.  I dumped out the powder and weighed it and it was the correct weight.  I filled the case again and set it in the tray for seating bullets when I wondered if something could be under the powder.  These cases were not new when I got them and looked shiny like they had been tumbled.  I dumped out the charge again and peered down into the case and there was something stuck in there.  I pulled it out with a pair of tweezers.  It may have been a piece of corn cob from the tumbling media at any rate it was too large to come out without grabbing it and pulling it out.  I guess that is another good reason to always check the powder charges before seating bullets especially if something could have found its way into the case under the powder.  It may not have been dangereous but probably would have at least caused a flyer and perhaps caused a bullet to get stuck in the barrel. 

Several times I have found small pebbles, insect nests, mud, or other debris in cases I've scrounged from the range.  The longer it has been on the ground, the more likely some bug or something will find its way inside. 

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noylj posted this 19 May 2011

Using a tumbler, I don't tear the paper towel and, when done, I can easily inspect that the towel is still whole. I suppose the best you can do with a vibrator is inspect the towel pieces. Also, I use 20/40 grit corn and decap during sorting/inspection. The 20/40 seems small enough that it never packs into a case or primer pocket. There is almost never any thing in the flash holes and what is there is jut a sliver of material (not even a grain of grit). It generally falls out. If not, it gets bumped out during resizing as the decap pin is still in the die. I really like the RCBS media separator and consider the cost well worth it over manually using a sifter. With the lid, you can even keep walnut dust down.

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valk posted this 20 May 2011

I clean my brass by putting them in a zippered, padded pillow case. Then I throw the whole shebang in the washer with a few towels to cushion it. Only problem I've had is that 9mm cases will sometimes “nest” in the 45acp cases.

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CB posted this 21 May 2011

I have also washed my brass in the washing machine. It works great.

Any thrifty reloaders out there like me will find you can wash tumbling media in hot soapy water to clean it, if you wish to take the time and then to let it dry. :P

After tumbling brass though, I then de-cap the cartridges. I save old bore brushes to clean the inside of straight wall case cartridges. I chuck the old brush in an electric motor and hold each brass over the spinning brush. When the brush wears down I start adding 4-0000 steel wool. This is a make sure clean-out of any debris or spider nest, etc. Whenever I use steel wool on my brass, I take them outside the shop and blow off the cases to make sure no steel slivers are left behind............DanW

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rmrix posted this 21 May 2011

After using Ceramic media I almost never use my old walnut or corncob media. I do not hear much if anything about ceramic here on this board.

It is used wet, cleans everything, even the primer pockets and ALL the junk goes out with the soapy water. This is the same treatment the brass gets before it is sold to us.

I can find a link for you to check out later. Once you go ceramic you never go back  B)

 

Michael Rix

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Balhincher posted this 23 May 2011

Michael, I'd be interested in hearing more about using ceramic media and having the link for a source.

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CB posted this 23 May 2011

Yes, tell us more.....what size etc.   I find ceramic expensive though............DanW

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codarnall posted this 22 June 2011

Ceramic media or stainless steel burnishing media.
I've had excellent luck with the steel balls. Brass is cleaner than new. Tumble with liquid Joy, or Dawn. Rinse and dry, A pain but beautiful. 50 years now, walnut media is a joke.

Ceramic media, well you'd better be in the business. mcmaster.com

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rmrix posted this 24 June 2011

I thought I posted 4 links on here. ???? I did somewhere. I think I put it on a different post.

codarnall, not sure what you mean by better be in the business? If price is what you have in mind it is about $35-50 to get everything you need, if you have a tumbler or water tight vib/shaker type like the Lyman turbo. I have not check McMaster-Carr

Look at Buffalo Arms website Or Sagebrush
Also, Steve Rhoades on his Arizona sharpshooters websight Or google Shooter 2 ceramic media

This ceramic cleaning has become very much the mainstream with the Blackpowder Cartridge shooters. And that is a market that knows how to get a case dirty. And clean.

This stuff is not expensive nor is it hard to handle. In fact it is cheap and easy and best of all, it works great! -FYI I have NO interest in any business that sells this type of product. This is just information.

:cool::cool::cool::cool::^:

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codarnall posted this 24 June 2011

http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-finishing-media/=cvtbqf

See look for your self . 1/4 x 1/4 which us really to large is $90.80 per small 25# bag. Finer is much more expensive I could not locate. Last time I looked it was about $150.00.

Charlie

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runnin lead posted this 24 June 2011

He will sell you some Eagle Lube though. Good stuff! Has anyone here tryed the smaller spherical ceramic media on 308,30-06 size brass? I use the larger size on 45-70 & it works great .

 

Here is one

http://www.arizonasharpshooter.com>http://www.arizonasharpshooter.com

Another

http://www.buffaloarms.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3889>http://www.buffaloarms.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3889

 

 

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rmrix posted this 24 June 2011

Hi Charlie, Yeah, Have not looked at McMaster but that is not the right stuff at that large size.

The right size and shape has been worked out and that stuff you saw at McMaster is for whatever...not sure. Parts cleanup maybe.

The Right stuff for cleaning brass cases can be found at the above places. Others big brand outdoors mailorder places too.

All the best, Michael Rix

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afish4570 posted this 01 September 2011

I have a Dillon 2000 , large vibratory type cleaner.   Don't think I can use anything wet in it. Can anyone with experience  advise me.   I have used Walnut, Corn,Walnut  lizard bedding along with car waxes etc. sucessfully for years. I have been adding dryer sheet squares the last 6mos.afish4570:dude::dude:

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bill_clancy posted this 15 October 2013

Balhincher wrote: I just read the comments from LWesthoff last night about finding paper towell balls in his tumbled cases.  Today I was loading up some 218 bee cases and noticed that one of them seemed a little fuller than the other nine after throwing the powder charges.  I dumped out the powder and weighed it and it was the correct weight.  I filled the case again and set it in the tray for seating bullets when I wondered if something could be under the powder.  These cases were not new when I got them and looked shiny like they had been tumbled.  I dumped out the charge again and peered down into the case and there was something stuck in there.  I pulled it out with a pair of tweezers.  It may have been a piece of corn cob from the tumbling media at any rate it was too large to come out without grabbing it and pulling it out.  I guess that is another good reason to always check the powder charges before seating bullets especially if something could have found its way into the case under the powder.  It may not have been dangereous but probably would have at least caused a flyer and perhaps caused a bullet to get stuck in the barrel. 

Several times I have found small pebbles, insect nests, mud, or other debris in cases I've scrounged from the range.  The longer it has been on the ground, the more likely some bug or something will find its way inside. 

I picked up a piece of brass just yesterday, and looked at it, noticing a spider with web living inside! Ya just can't be too careful.

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Garyshome posted this 12 November 2013

I tumble with Lizzard Litter. Works well, get it at petsmart, not very expensive.

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Michael K posted this 12 November 2013

While cleaning out my grandmothers shed a couple of years ago I came across her and my grand dad's old 60's vintage rotary rock tumbler with a 1/4 HP motor and a 1 gal barrel with 2 compartments. Took the motor down to the local electric motor shop for a check up and all is well. The technician was rather excited and sentimental over the age and condition of the motor.

Earlier this last summer I picked up 5lbs of SSM stainless steel media. Haven't used my vibrating tumbler since, except to remove case lube.

I borrowed some ceramic media and did side by side test with the SS vs. ceramic after our last BPCR match. The ceramic made for shiner cases outside, but SS was more efficient in cleaning primer pockets and the insides.

Michael

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afish4570 posted this 17 May 2015

Anyone using an older “dry type” vibrating machine for the SS or ceramic wet cleaning process....? I have an old big Dillon 2000 I would like to use if someone has some experience. afish4570

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gpidaho posted this 17 May 2015

I've been pretty happy with my Lyman sonic cleaner. It's great for cleaning small gun parts like revolver cylinders and AR bolts, carriers and pins. With the brass cleaning solution it does a great job at cleaning out the inside the case crud. A good way to keep the solution clean is to put it in one of those 1gal. Sun tea containers after use and let the gunk settle to the bottom below the spigot. I may give the tumbler method a try in SIL's rock tumbler, I've seen brass cleaned that way and it looks like it does a great job. GP

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codarnall posted this 17 May 2015

I found SS burnishing metal guessing .025 in diameter by .375 long.  on Amazon.  Media was here overnight .  2 pounds did the trick with my one gallon lapidary tumbler. Tumbled with Dawn or Joy the brass and pockets were like new, actually better, in about an hour. Charlie

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Cary Gunn posted this 03 June 2015

Howdy gents,

Has anybody tried the mild household acids for wet cleaning of brass?  They work well, fairly quickly, and very cheaply.

A recommendation from George Nonte's old tome, “Cartridge Conversions,” involves a solution of 2/3 white distilled vinegar, 1/3 water with a pinch of table salt and a couple drops of liquid dish detergent.  Make enough solution to just cover your brass, then wet-tumble in a rock polisher or case tumbler. 

The acid solution itself, without the need for an abrasive medium, will clean both the inside and outside of the cases.  If cases are decapped prior to tumbling, the primer pockets will also be washed. Even very dirty brass will come out the bath with a “sparkle” on the outside, while the inside will be noticeably cleaner as well.

Lemon or lime juice is also a good brass cleaner, but the best cheap acid I've found is the citric acid powder sold in the “canning” or food-preservation section of grocery stores.  Apparently, the ladies use it to acidify certain canning recipes. You can get a jar of the acid powder for a few bucks.

My little $19, one-quart Harbor Freight rock tumbler, dosed  with 3/4 teaspoon of the citric acid powder, along with a drop of dish soap and enough water to cover 35 or 40 7.62 NATO cases, results in very clean brass after an hour of tumbling.  If you want even prettier cases, let the tumbler run for 2 or 3 hours. 

The action of the very mild acid is supposed to be “self-limiting,” so, theoretically, the tumbler could run all-day-long without harming the brass. But, I've never found the need for more than 2 or 3 hours of tumbling time, even with the grimiest of cases.

After draining the acid bath, I generally tumble the brass a second time, for 10 minutes or so, in clean, fresh water with another drop of dish soap added. The dish soap is said to promote some sort of surface corrosion protection for the brass when the sudsy water is drained off. 

Spread the cases out on paper towels to dry for a day or so, or, if in a hurry, place the cases on paper towels on a cookie sheet and dry in your oven at 180 or 190 degrees for half-an-hour or so.

Before loading, double-check to make certain primer pockets and case interiors are fully dry.  If wet tumbled with the old primers still in the primer pockets, it might take a day or more to fully dry in the pockets.

I think it's better to de-prime before tumbling.  Not only do the primer pockets get cleaned that way, but drying time is also greatly reduced.  Decapping with the Lee Universal Decapping Die allows virtually all calibers to be deprimed without fear of scratching dirty cases or dies.  Just resize your cases, or neck-size, after the brass is clean and dry.

You might not get that “jewelry-like” gleam produced by a full day of tumbling in a dry-abrasive medium, but wet tumbling will give you very clean cases, very cheaply.

And, if you're like me, you"ll take pride in being a tight-wad while enjoying the quickly-cleaned brass.

Happy trails,

-- Cary Gunn -- 

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codarnall posted this 07 June 2015

If you insist on chemicals to clean brass you should limit them to ammonia or EDTA. Tumbling with DAWN,JOY ( 1tsp)etc. and stainless steel burnishing beads or needles with yield a like new finish in about an hour. I found the two (2) pounds of stainless material on AMAZON and the package was her over night. Very happy too!

Charlie

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