Any body out there shooting their smoke poles. I've been shooting my TC FL Renegade some. It seems to shoot a little better each time I shoot it
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oh yes, a whole lot! In fact I'm building a .58 right now. Ross
I was given a barrel and half stock blank that some body else made some very weird mistakes on. The barrel is shortened to 31" to remove the buggered section and I've inlet the barrel to the stock but have to move the inlet straight back to remove the booger in the stock. Sent for some other components to build a 1/2 stock flinter with no ramrod. Strictly a range gun. Next step is to install the tang and touch hole,inlet that, then inlet the siler lock. The the scary part, carve the stock. Ross
Yep! I shoot mine a lot practice, practice, practice!
I love flinters
Dont shot mine near enough. All my deer hunting is with my .52 cal.
Jon Welda CW5 USA Ret. 608 797 0056
I too have a FL and shoot it in various postal matches and [local] woods walks. As rhbrink wrote, they do indeed require a lot of practice!
I finished building my flinter in 2010 after a five year build. I shoot it maybe twice a year for 4 or 5 shots. Only had it miss-fire once when I forgot to wipe the grease of the frizzen. Other than that it has been very reliable, but living in the desert there aren't the moisture issues. But we get hard fouling really quick.
Saw the thread, thought I would join in. Not shooting as much as I did but still play around some. Took my 40 flinter out today but the squirrels did not cooperate.
Will be hosting a table shoot and an over the log shoot the first weekend of November here on the farm.
Haven't been shooting as much as I used to but hunting season is just around the corner. I'm also giving a presentation on the mountain men and fur trade tomorrow. Flintlocks, I have 5. Two 45 cal Southern Mountain rifles, a 62 cal Northwest trade gun, a 54 cal Pedersoli Blue ridge Rifle, and a 45 cal pistol. Yup, all rocklocks.
New CBA member first post. Good to see flintlock interest on the forum; shooting and hunting with muzzle loaders, started in the 70's. Put meat on the table with a .45 caliber flinter ,about 90% of my deer hunting. Love this forum. muzzle loaders are the first reloader's and cast bullet shooters.
Just my 2 cents. Flinters do require practice. I named one of mine flinch lock. By shooting flinters I have learned Follow Through! This has helped all of my shooting, even those suppository guns. Ross
"suppository guns" Nice phrase, I like that thought.
I have to get mine out. It's a Pedersoli 54 Mortimer. What I have often wondered, me being the frugal type, could I use bits of a hand held grinders wheel instead of flints? Those things throw gobs of spark. There is nothing like the quick Phht-Boom of a well tuned flinter.
Yo Kid: No! I used to sort of kinda nearly almost make my own flints. The good english and french flints are just that---Good. I think the grinder wheel pieces would crumble, and besides, the effort you put into making grinder pieces of the right shape could be put into learning knapping. Ross
I am an experienced flintknapper and flintlock shooter since 1957 at age 7. My local Onondaga Flint makes terrific gunflints. I have also found a very inexpensive source of sawed Agate gunflints @ $1 ea. and some other excellent varieties here:
The Agates spark very big and must be wiped clean each shot as the extremely fine grain translucent agate will slip on steel if it has fouling on it.
I've been shooting my TC Renegade conversion to FL for the first time with cut flints. On the A side, I got 14 shots and the B side so far 9. when they're sharp, I get a pan full of sparks............
Is there a way to resharpen the ends on a cut flint ???
alco, you asked,
"Is there a way to resharpen the ends on a cut flint ???"
Gunflints sawed or knapped are both sharpen able. Developing the skill isn't so easy. I generally resharpen flints in the jaw of the hammer with pressure flaking and shearing. The principles and mechanics of that need understanding and experience to do well First efforts generally fail badly.
I use a whitetail antler tine about 6" long. Not a sun bleacked pickup antler but a hard fresh one not a weathered one. Sharpen the tip to a rounded point with sandpaper to a 1/4" radius. You will use this like a push knife tool so it should fit your hand easily to use as tool. I push the point directly on the part of the edge I want to start, Push in toward the middle of the flint with the tine held in that line. Then simultaneously increase pushing into and pushing down 90 degrees. About of half of your maximum arm strength should be needed to take flakes at all. A flake will tear off. With experience you will control the size of the flakes but that is the basics of resharpening a flint by "pressure flaking". A well executed flake when sharpening a gun flint looks teardrop shaped and about 1/4" long and pointed where your pressure flake tool push started the tear.
The edge can also be sharpened by shearing on the edge of the frizzen or with a simple shearing tool. A 1" wide steel paint scraper makes a good simple shear. Hold the scraper by the blade with only 1/2" extended past your thumb tip and forefinger pinching the blade like a big key you are going to turn. A shear is used by holding the flat edge against the flint edge, pushing straight into the rock and rotating one end of the blade down a little like a scissor does to shear off bits of flint. With practice, you can sharpen and straighten the flint edge. I learned shearing on the frizzen well for hunting necessity. It can be learned and there are YouTube videos on the subject. Both using the frizzen or the paint scraper method are just a matter of practice figuring how much arm power to use to get the stone to shear gradually into a new edge. Using the frizzen as a shearing tool right on the rifle to touch up a flint is total AMERICANA and invented by Americans. ...find a video, it is hard to understand from just words, But I hope I have helped. I don't even think about it when I am doing it as I have been doing it for 60 years.
Important to remember is that after you flake or shear a nice new straight edge, loosen your jaw and reset the flint position to your new edge.
Watch whole thing, there is a short part on using the frizzen as I do for a field touch up in this video. The flaking method he shows is poor, this guy is not a flint knapper, but he makes it work:
I built a Navy Arms FL Kentucky rifle kit when I was in High School. Had nothing but problems trying to get consistent ignition. So when I got outa the service I tried again with a CVA Tower pistol kit. It worked better, but when I got set up for hunting, I went with a Caplock. I just felt I owed it to the game I hunted & myself to have that extra edge. So I got a T/C Hawken caplock in .54 caliber.
These days I'd like to find a .45 cal flintlock. But it seems .50 cal is all that's offered. Not to mention trying to find 4F in SoCal.
Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun.
Shot my flinter today. First time knapping the english flint with pliers. It works!!!! I hadn't tackled the cut flint yet.............
I have two Southern Mountain 45 cal rocklock long rifles I use in competition at rendezvous. I also carry a Pedersoli Blue Ridge 54 cal rocklock while hunting. I stopped using the caplock at rendezvous in 1991. Though I was hunting with traditional caplocks since 1986, I've been hunting with the Pedersoli rocklock since 2005. There was about 10 years I used my 20 gauge Northwest Trade gun for grouse hunting but between the price of fuel and the locking up of all the timber lands put an end to that.
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