New Brass mold

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  • Last Post 03 February 2017
Scearcy posted this 02 February 2017

I just bought my first new brass mold.  Does anyone have advice about breaking in an new brass mold?

Thanks

Jim

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RicinYakima posted this 02 February 2017

I have purchased three over the last few years. So far I have been happy with just washing well with dish soap, rinsing in hot water and putting on the woodstove to dry. They don't seem to have the issues of aluminum moulds, at least for me. Good Luck.

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Scearcy posted this 02 February 2017

Thanks Ric.  I was hoping it would be a bit easier than the other materials.

Jim

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R. Dupraz posted this 02 February 2017

I have considered brass. But what about lead specks and such sticking to the blocks?

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SierraHunter posted this 02 February 2017

They are still a bit more delicate then iron molds. Make sure you use a good sprue plate lube, and a little bit on the alignment pins never hurt anyone either.

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Scearcy posted this 02 February 2017

I have a used Eagan that works great.  The previous owner smoked the cavities. I don't know if that is the key but bullets just drop out of it.

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OU812 posted this 02 February 2017

Make sure your handles hinge bolt is good and snug so that mold halves line up well before closing. Alignment pins must not make constant contact with brass...this will cause raised areas on mold face and prevent mold to close fully causing fins on bullets.

I scrubbed my new brass mold with electric tooth brush and Arm & Hammer toothpaste then rinsed well. The abrasive baking soda in toothpaste does a good job of cleaning. Next I do NOE's recommended three step heat cycle in toaster oven. All of this just to remove oils and probably unnecessary.

Brass is heavier, but galls way less. You will like if your take good care.

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Scearcy posted this 02 February 2017

It is heavy.  I think I will post a picture of it on my 243 thread as that is its purpose.

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RicinYakima posted this 02 February 2017

RD, The normal oxidation seems to prevent lead sticking to the faces of the block, and wipe right off with a cloth at the end of the session.

Scearcy, I think it is the smoothness  of the cavity that helps drop-out, as it is much smoother than aluminum moulds. That is why you smoke aluminum cavities, to fill all the pits and pores.

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onondaga posted this 03 February 2017

 Scearcy

Mold check for burrs and mating is important for all molds. Break in is not remarkable at all with brass molds that are good. 60 years casting brought me to the only mold lube that works well, clear automotive silicone dielectric grease doesn't gas out, is an anti-flux that repels lead, it doesn't cake and only turns to white ash at 1100 degrees that is hotter than anything associated with casting bullets. Applying it dumbfounds dummies however. Don't blop it on!  Apply it lightly as possible only enough to make a shine anywhere on entire mold even in the cavity and handles. A little on a Q-tip,  kleenex squeezed and wiped about dry works best to apply a shine to aluminum, brass, iron or steel.

Most car parts places have it near ignition parts in small tubes for a few bucks. If you go back to something else, it is because you used it wrong.

 

Gary

 

 

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