REX C100 notes

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  • Last Post 21 March 2017
vmwilson posted this 04 March 2017

Those Chinese translations in the instruction manuals leave a bit to be desired!  Going to try and upload my notes that have helped both myself and a few others over time. Have been very happy with my 2 units and if anyone has some further tips on their operation I'd appreciate getting them to add on.  Couldn't figure out how to upload a DOC  or PDF so will try this way.

ENSURE YOUR REX C100 HAS SSR OUTPUT
IT'S EASIER THAN MODIFYING ONE!

REX C-100 Model FK02V-AN HAS SSR OUTPUT

PV = Process Value    SV = Set Value
Buttons -   SET,     RS or Shift Digits Key ◄
▲ = Raise the value     ▼ = Lower the value
__________________________________
INITIAL POWER ON SCREENS
InP shows in PV screen first
°C    K  shows in SV screen
then goes to 400 in PV screen
and 0 in SV screen
then room temp in PV
and the set value in SV screen
If the TC isn't hooked up it flashes FOUR
Zeros in the PV screen
_________________________________________
To Set Desired Temperature
Press SET button
Press ◄ Button to select digits
When done selecting Press SET
_______________________________
TO AUTOTUNE UNIT
Press & Hold SET button till AL1 shows
Press SET to sequence to ATU
Change 0 to 1
Press SET
AT lamp will flash until autotune is completed
______________________________________________


To enter 1st Parameters
Press and Hold SET
LCK = 0
    FACT    MINE
AL1
ATU    0    0
P    30    30
I    240    240
D    60    60
Ar    25    25    (Note 2)
T    20    20
SC    0    -001    for offsetting TC error
LCK    0    0

1. Inst. Sheet showed OH following T - not in my PID!
Also showed AL2 but not in my PID either.

2. {Ar was 13 top pot, 38 lower pot} Some
manuals show factory set of 25 & some 100.  It needs
some value or will shut off the I function and apparently
will change with PID action of some sort.}
To exit 1st Parameters Hold down SET
______________________________

To enter 2nd set of Parameters
Set LCK to 1000
Hold SET & SHIFT KEY ◄ till COD=0 appears

Use SET to scroll
COD    0
SL1    0    K type TC
SL2    1    Celsius (no luck changing to F)
SL3    0
SL4    1
SL5    0
SL6    1    (inverse operation, heating)
SL7    0
SL8    0
SL9    0
SL10    1
SL11    0
_____________________________________________

To enter 3rd set of parameters
When COD = 1 use SET to select
SLH    0      Note 3
SLL    0
oH    2
AH1    2
dF    1
To Exit Parameters Hold SET and SHIFT KEY down
(no decimal place set on mine after SLL)

3.  SLH value can be changed to let unit read a higher value.
Set mine at 450°C (842° F)

LOCK Settings (varies in different manuals)
0000    All can be modified
0001    Data can't be modified, except SV, AL1, AL2
0011    Data can't be modified, except SV
0111    Nothing can be modified

0100    No Data Locked
0101    Set data locked (All Parameters
    changeable)
0110    SV changeable, set data locked

0100    Nothing Locked
0101    Set data locked
0110    All parameters locked except SV

0000    Any setting other than 0000 cannot
    enter the initial set mode.
    If set to initial set mode all outputs
    are turned OFF
    If controller exits from initial set mode,
    confirm that that LCK setting is set to
    0100

 

 

 

Mike

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John Alexander posted this 04 March 2017

What the heck is a REZ C100?

vmwilson posted this 05 March 2017

What the heck is a REZ C100?

Well for starters it's a REX but it's a Chinese PID controller that's generally the lowest priced one out there.  Works quite well but the“Chinglish"  instructions leave a lot to be desired for us ordinary mortals, thus the notes I've made over time.

 

Mike

John Alexander posted this 05 March 2017

Mike,

Thanks for the explanation.  Also thanks for taking the time to post your instructions. Sounds interesting tell us more.  How low is the“lowest price".  

John

Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 05 March 2017

about $30 on amazon .... very very tempting ... i am telling my wife she needs one for her crockpot ...   ... and one of the user reviews mentions the directions are in sanscrit ...  ha ...

ken

 

vmwilson posted this 05 March 2017

Mike,

Thanks for the explanation.  Also thanks for taking the time to post your instructions. Sounds interesting tell us more.  How low is the“lowest price".  

John

So far I've had good luck on ebay usually getting things in 2 weeks or less with the free shipping.  As a ball park figure around the $12 mark for the REX and $30-$35 for a Mypin.  Then of course you need a TC (thermocouple), a SSR (Solid State Relay) and a heatsink.  And of course the normal run of electrical supplies, wire, power socket.  A lot of times you can find things grouped but there are things to watch for.  You want a TC with at least a 4&rdquoprobe and a K type.  Lot of times the probe is a PT100 which is a different duck altogether though if you specify lot of them will exchange types.  A 25 amp SSR is adequate in my view.  A box to assemble in which can be most anything.  Old ammo  cans have been used as well as power supply enclosures out of junked computers.  I made 2 out of plywood with metal ends out of scrap stuff.  Good scrounger should be able to stay under $50 total.  Good thing about the REX is the $20 lower price.  It does however only read in Celsius (no big deal) and you have to watch to make sure it has the SSR output and not the relay output which most have.  From what I've been able to tell about the Mypins is you want the Model TA4-SNR.  They'll do it all and I had one but I switch mine between lead pots, hot plate, and luber heater when needed and I didn't find it di too good a job on my hot plate.  I returned it and got another REX and am happy with them.  In truth though my Auber SYL-2352 is easily the best but it's $46.50 for the controller alone.  You do kind of get what you pay for!  The added benefit of an Auber is actual tech support and manuals that started out in English and not Chinese translations.

Those little Rex's I have set at 365° C and rarely see more than a degree or two swing in my pot.  But the instructions are why I posted my notes!  And for that matter the ones with the Mypin are not much better for us normal folks.

Mike

vmwilson posted this 05 March 2017

While I'm thinking about it really is  quite easy to put a unit together yourself.  I've talked a few guys through it via email and a couple of them didn't know any electricity at all.  Enjoyed helping them and would be glad to do so for others also.  Have a number of files to help.  Mine are probably not as pretty as some but they all worked the first time.  Hopefully I'll get a diagram on here that shows just what the working hookup is in basic form.

 

Mike

David Reiss CBA Membership Director posted this 06 March 2017

Mike,

This would be a good article for the FS.

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
-Services: Wars Fought, Uprisings Quelled, Bars Emptied, Revolutions Started, Tigers Tamed, Assassinations Plotted, Women Seduced, Governments Run, Gun Appraisals, Lost Treasure Found.
- Also deal in: Land, Banjos, Nails, Firearms, Manure, Fly Swatters, Used Cars, Whisky, Racing Forms, Rare Antiquities, Lead, Used Keyboard Keys & Dogs, Pith Helmets & Zulu Headdresses. .

Scearcy posted this 06 March 2017

One of our contributors used to build and sell these things.  He sort of disappeared several months (or more) back. Health issues maybe? Articles for TFS, pictures here, anything? Personally I think adding one of these  would be the single biggest improvement I could make in my casting setup.

 

vmwilson posted this 06 March 2017

Mike,

This would be a good article for the FS.

Did do kind of one a couple years back.  But bear in mind I'm not an accomplished writer by any means.

Mike

Scearcy posted this 06 March 2017

The are a few really good YouTubes out there. One in particular even supplied a  list of materials. A shooting buddy and I modified the list a bit and ordered enough parts to build 2.  I don't have any skills - he does. Cost is going to be around $80 each. We didn't make any particular effort to economize other than leaving out a couple of optional components.

Jim

Scearcy posted this 12 March 2017

This is not the REX C100 but this thread inspired me to finally build my own Lead Pot controller with a different, but similar, PID. I offer this picture as incentive to those of you who want one but have been on the fence so to speak. We built 2 of these. The second took almost 4 man hours and cost $75. Adding a switch and/or fuse would add to the cost and complexity but might be features you deem desirable. FWIW

vmwilson posted this 12 March 2017

Looks nice,where you find the nice box?

Mike

Scearcy posted this 12 March 2017

Amazon - project box. Cut the square hole with a“Nipper&rdquoalso obtained at Amazon. All parts ordered on Amazon - everything delivered within 48 hours. The parts list was obtained off a you tube video.

Jim

4570sharps posted this 13 March 2017

PID controller?

Scearcy posted this 13 March 2017

MyPin for $27 I believe

vmwilson posted this 16 March 2017

Made a minor correction to entering 2nd parameter.  Was COD=1000 and changed that to COD=0

Mike

vmwilson posted this 21 March 2017

Was just killing a bit of time and looked at 1st 50 items on an ebay search for Rexc100's.  Only found 8 that had the SSR output which is what we need.  Even some of the packaged ones that had SSR's included were Relay Output models.  Really have to watch what you're getting.  Personally I'd also ensure it's the RKC controllers that are made in Japan and not the Chinese Berme ones that are probably copies but who knows how well they did it.

 

Mike

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