Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent and Lube

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Last Post 21 December 2013

Standard Member

21gun posted this 19 October 2013

Has anyone used Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent and Lube 6 oz Aerosol?

I did smoke my molds, but the mold held the bullets and I really had to rap on the hinge to get the bullets to drop. so I gave Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent and Lube a try. I sprayed all my molds I think that it the reason that my bullets have a slight frosty appearance. I use to get a shinny look to my casts.

I have a lee pot set on 4.5-5.5 I don't have a thermometer so I'm not sure of the lead temp. I don't think the lead is to hot if I go to 3.5-4 the spout tends to clog. that and I get spots of shinny lead.

If anyone has info on Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent and Lube good and bad let me know. also if you have bad... let me know how to clean it off my molds.

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22 Comments

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Standard Member

Wayne S posted this 19 October 2013

Not your stuff, but mine came from NEI , or Midway, anyway, it would build up and I started casting undersized bullets. read this, http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?174736-how-to-make-the-bullets-drop-more-easily-out-of-the-mold&highlight=bullets+stick>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?174736-how-to-make-the-bullets-drop-more-easily-out-of-the-mold&highlight=bullets+stick You need to keep track of your Temp. especially with a Lee pot , this one won't brake the bank becauseit dosen't have someones name on it. http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-green-egg-primo-grill-dome-kamado-replacement-thermometer-lt225r-5-inch-stem-2001000-degrees-f.aspx

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Standard Member

21gun posted this 19 October 2013

Thank you, I'm going to brake down and get a Lead Thermometer. Thank you for the source on the cheap! I if don't win the Lead Thermometer on e-bay I bid on I will go with the one you suggested.

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Standard Member

Wayne S posted this 20 October 2013

You are welcome, I bought two of those in the link and they both track with in 10 * of each other and one that has the RCBS label on it.

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Standard Member

Rich/WIS posted this 20 October 2013

Comments above are correct, builds up and is a PITA to get back off. At proper temp a good mold should not need release agents, but may need a tap or two to drop. Check the edges of the cavity for any burrs, there are stickies on how to remove them and polish the cavities.

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CBA Regional Director

Tom Acheson posted this 21 October 2013

A custom mould maker (can't recall which one) said to put a dry q-tip in each mould cavity. Then spray the stuff all over the outside surfaces and underside of the sprue plate. He cautioned to be sure not to get any on the inside of the cavities. This application is supposed to prevent build-up and splatter of lead on the exterior of the mould, especially on the underside of the sprue plate.

Tom

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CBA Member

32ideal posted this 21 October 2013

I use it to coat the inside of my Lee lead pots after cleaning them, pots stay really nice for 6 months or so and splatter flicks right off, also doing underside sprue plate works great, as stated below do not get it inside the mould cavity or on the joint surface between the two halves (might be useful to try to beagle a mould with it)

32ideal

Tom Acheson wrote: A custom mould maker (can't recall which one) said to put a dry q-tip in each mould cavity. Then spray the stuff all over the outside surfaces and underside of the sprue plate. He cautioned to be sure not to get any on the inside of the cavities. This application is supposed to prevent build-up and splatter of lead on the exterior of the mould, especially on the underside of the sprue plate.

Tom

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CBA Member

billglaze posted this 13 December 2013

I've used Drop-Out for a couple of years. When the mould gets a little reluctant to let go, a slight misting of the stuff helps. Where I really find it useful, is in spraying the bevel on the outside (top) of the sprue cutter, when the sprues don't want to release. Helps a lot. I've never used the stuff in heavy enough coats that the bullets were changed dimensionally; and, on those occasions that I want to remove the stuff, I clean the mould the same way I usually clean it: I keep Acetone or M.E.K. handy, and a rag and Q-tip. That does the trick. Also, if you have a sprue cutter that tends to pick up lead on the bottom, a slight treatment with the stuff is a big help; it does need to be re-applied as needed.

In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. My fate is not entirely in Gods hands, if I have a weapon in mine.

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Standard Member

21gun posted this 17 December 2013

How doe you clean your lead pot?

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Standard Member

onondaga posted this 18 December 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=7218>21gun

Cleaning lead pots is one of those things that has the potential to really give you major exposure to airborne lead particle respiration poisoning. You don't even have to be a Californian for that kind of exposure to lower your IQ and give you erectile dysfunction.

I keep my pot clean by not using fluxes that crud up pots with baked on, fused petroleum and contaminants and use sawdust for flux only.

When my pot gets seriously cruddy I will filter mask myself, rotary brush the solvent oil sprayed pot with shop vac pickup in the pot and exhaust hose attached to shop vac vented outdoors and facing away from the direction of California. Then wipe the pot with dry/clean rags. Although Lee recommends leaving 1 inch of metal in the pot when done casting and spraying with silicone or WD40 when cooled, I empty the pot into ingots, allow to cool then spray with WD40. Before next use, a fresh spray and light scraping will remove oil loosened crud.

For valve cleaning on my bottom pour Lee, the emptying regularly and not leaving the pot full makes access to and cleaning of valve parts easy.

These procedures take earnest effort and care for equipment and are not ideal work habits for the lazy of butt.

I usually cast and shoot 100 pounds of bullets a year and once a year thorough pot and valve maintenance works for me along with how I leave my pot after use and before filling.

Gary

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CBA Member

LWesthoff posted this 18 December 2013

Most of the crud that builds up on the pot walls is water soluble. Start with a COLD pot, fill 'er up with water, turn it on and let it boil for a while. I then dip most of the boiling water out into another container to throw away, and then when the pot cools off enough to handle I take it out and dump the rest of the water. Then plug it back in, turn on for a little while and let it dry itself - COMPLETELY.

Sometimes if the pot seems extra dirty, I'll wire brush as much crud out as I can, before I boil the rest out,

Works for me.

Wes

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CBA Member

RicinYakima posted this 18 December 2013

Wes's method is the safest, cleanest and most effective method. Ric

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Standard Member

Garyshome posted this 19 December 2013

That's what I thought about that stuff! I try to keep the pot clean by scraping the sides when I cast.

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CBA Member

R. Dupraz posted this 19 December 2013

Wes's method is the safest, cleanest and most effective method. Ric/images/emoticons/bowsmilie.gif'); RD

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Standard Member

onondaga posted this 19 December 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=804>LWesthoff

I'd like to try your boilout method. Of course, my Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot has the valve assembly and valve hole at the pot bottom. That would have to be sealed or removed and sealed or the water would run out.

I will try to figure that out but do you or others have any suggestions?

Gary

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CBA Member

Duane Mellenbruch posted this 19 December 2013

If the water leaks out, that means you need to lap the seat and rod. Better to find out with water than hot lead.

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CBA Member

RicinYakima posted this 19 December 2013

Before I made my Lee a dipping pot, I just cut a stick and put it into the spout from the bottom. The RCBS doesn't leak much more than a tablespoon as the rod is a tight fit. Am working on a longer post on pot cleaning. Ric

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Standard Member

onondaga posted this 19 December 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=50>RicinYakima

My valve and seat are in excellent shape for stopping lead from dripping but I will try the toothpick into the spout idea for stopping boiling dish soap water that I want to use boiling to clean my pot. Thanks a lot. My pot is very clean and empty right now, next cleaning I will try the water method, it sounds a lot easier and safer.

Gary

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CBA Member

LWesthoff posted this 19 December 2013

Since I am and always have been a confirmed ladle caster, I'm afraid I don't have any suggestions for you guys whose pots have a hole in the bottom. Sounds like Ric and Gary may have solved that problem. Sorry 'bout that, guys.

Wes