Sprue Plate Knocker

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  • Last Post 02 May 2014
Pigslayer posted this 27 April 2014

Since I started casting in 1972 and as instructed by lyman when I purchased my first mold . . . a 358156 I have always used a thick dowel to rap on the sprue plate and the hinge pin. Every once in a while I have to replace one due to it turning to splinters. Made this one on my wood lathe the other night.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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csparks1106 posted this 27 April 2014

Very nice. I'm kinda jealous. Mine is a piece of closet rod.

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pat i. posted this 27 April 2014

Real nice Pat and could see it having a second job as an upper crust head knocker.

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gnoahhh posted this 27 April 2014

...or a “priest” to use on a fish head. My problem is whenever I make a pretty tool like that I'm reluctant to use it and go back to the splintery old one.

For a while I switched to bumping the sprue plate with the heal of my gloved hand. But the pain and suffering therein lead me back to the stick.

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delmarskid1 posted this 27 April 2014

Is that ash?

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LWesthoff posted this 27 April 2014

I've been using a rawhide mallet for 40 odd years. I'm on my second mallet now, and it probably will last 'til I'm too old to use it anymore.

Wes

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Pigslayer posted this 27 April 2014

delmarskid1 wrote: Is that ash?
No, it's red oak. I have some ash in the shop but didn't want to cut into it yet so I used the red oak scraps.   Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 27 April 2014

pat i. wrote: Real nice Pat and could see it having a second job as an upper crust head knocker. That thought crossed my mind. Sshhhhhhhh! LOL

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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CB posted this 27 April 2014

I only use a gloved hand myself.

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norm posted this 27 April 2014

Glue a piece of leather on the wood sprue knocker and you get less splinters

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R. Dupraz posted this 27 April 2014

Hey Norm:

I carried one for 20+ yrs almost just like Pigslayer's only it was a different color and a little longer. I never got any splinters when it was used!

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JeffinNZ posted this 28 April 2014

anachronism wrote: I only use a gloved hand myself. Same.  The more casting I do the softer the alloy I use so I can 'hand' open.

Cheers from New Zealand

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norm posted this 28 April 2014

RD, I bet somebody else got the splinters.

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R. Dupraz posted this 28 April 2014

The only thing I can say norm, is, I never did!

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joeb33050 posted this 28 April 2014

anachronism wrote: I only use a gloved hand myself.Is it still a sin? Glasses?

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argie1891 posted this 30 April 2014

I to am on my second rawhide mallet the first one had been used for many years by the caster who gave me his equipment. Right after I got the second one my dog tried to chew it up. I don't think I will ever have to buy another as they last for decades of hard use. argie1891

if you think you have it figured out then you just dont understand

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Brodie posted this 30 April 2014

I'm like Anachroism and Jeff I do it by hand.  I don't strike the sprue cutter just grasp it with my palm and twist the mold open. I have found this much quicker and more fluid than stopping to pick up a hammer or knocker, although I do use an OLD leather mallet to tap the hinge if a bullet should be so unwise as to dare to stick in the mold.  I have not gone blind yet although at 68 I do need glasses now due to arm shortening disease (presbiopea).  Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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csparks1106 posted this 30 April 2014

I use my “stick” to open the flow valve, knock open the sprue plate, tap the die to release the bullets, and then to close the sprue back up. My hands don't touch anything but the handles and stick. 

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Pigslayer posted this 01 May 2014

csparks1106 wrote: I use my “stick” to open the flow valve, knock open the sprue plate, tap the die to release the bullets, and then to close the sprue back up. My hands don't touch anything but the handles and stick.  Same here. Don't like the potential of burns.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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gnoahhh posted this 01 May 2014

Ditto. I keep the stick in my hand throughout the whole process, never laying it down. I do take care knock the sprue plate straight on so as not to damage anything.

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csparks1106 posted this 01 May 2014

Please allow me to segue for a moment. Does anyone put Loctite or some sort of thread locking substance on their sprue pivot bolt? I noticed that when I rotate the sprue out of the way, the head of the bolt moves along with it. It appears to return back, and doesn't seem to be backing out, but in theory it could, and then the cut would not be flush with the base of the bullet. Also, the Lee .45 mold of mine has left handed threads for the sprue bolt. Why is it left handed threads?

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Pigslayer posted this 01 May 2014

csparks1106 wrote: Please allow me to segue for a moment. Does anyone put Loctite or some sort of thread locking substance on their sprue pivot bolt? I noticed that when I rotate the sprue out of the way, the head of the bolt moves along with it. It appears to return back, and doesn't seem to be backing out, but in theory it could, and then the cut would not be flush with the base of the bullet. Also, the Lee .45 mold of mine has left handed threads for the sprue bolt. Why is it left handed threads? Probably to stop the screw from backing out. Mine aren't like that but I wish they were.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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csparks1106 posted this 02 May 2014

Pigslayer wrote: Probably to stop the screw from backing out. Mine aren't like that but I wish they were.Ok, so that is what I thought. Just like lug nuts on military vehicles. R.H. threads on one side L.H. on the other so that tightening would occur in the same direction as travel.How about the loctite?

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CB posted this 02 May 2014

Mark the spot on the sprue plate pivot where the set screw contacts it when the mold is at operating temperature and the screw is adjusted to the spot you want it to stay, assuming your mold has a set screw. Remove the screw and carefully file a small flat on the screw where the setscrew contacts it. Reassemble everything and the sprue pivot should never move on you again.

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