PID, buying or making one of these items

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Bob 11B50 posted this 29 April 2014

I have seen several suggestions to get a PID.  Where does one purchase a PID?  Or how does one make one? Inquiring minds want to know! Bob 11B50

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RicinYakima posted this 30 April 2014

A retired electrical company owner on this board, “Uncle Russ", makes them for sale if you PM him. Ric

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badgeredd posted this 30 April 2014

Here is a thread by one fellow that has been making them for a while and folks seem to be satisfied with the quality of his product.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?221976-CompeteCast-PID-temperature-controller>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?221976-CompeteCast-PID-temperature-controller

I have one made by another fellow that works well, but unfortunately he is no longer on the Castboolit forum.

Edd

P.S. Here is a thread about building your own. It may be of some use to you.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?34547-How-I-wired-a-PID-to-control-temperature

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Pigslayer posted this 04 May 2014

Uncle Russ can fix you up & you can't go wrong with a PID. Once you find the sweet spot for it you're home free. I made mine for about $50.00 in parts from ebay. You could too but if you are not comfortable with making one then look up Uncle Russ. I think he gives a choice of using all USA parts or Import parts. Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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onondaga posted this 04 May 2014

Anyone have a current link to order PID parts kits from Uncle Russ? My search was unproductive.

Gary

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Pigslayer posted this 05 May 2014

onondaga wrote: Anyone have a current link to order PID parts kits from Uncle Russ? My search was unproductive.

Gary
The only way I've contacted him is via this forum but if you can't find him I can help you with the parts list and where to get them.   Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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onondaga posted this 06 May 2014

Pat, Thank you, a parts list and where to get them would be very helpful for me and others considering making a PID..I am about ready to give one a try. I am not shy building electronic stuff and have built a number of Amateur Radio projects.

Gary

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vmwilson posted this 06 May 2014

There's a wealth of info on cast boolits about PID's. Worth the reading IMHO though obviously a lot of it will be about things you'll have no trouble doing.

Mike

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

Another pic. The standard 3 - prong outlet on the left is of course for the pot to plug into. I had a number of computer cords laying around so I picked up a 3 - pin socket (on the right) for one of them to actually power the PID. Both of these parts are available on ebay for about $2.00 shipped each.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

Another

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

Another

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

Another. A switch is actually optional as with the idiot lights. In this case I used a on-off-on switch. In the bottom position the green light stays on & the PID is bypassed leaving the pot to be controlled by it's own thermostat. Middle position is of course “off". Uppermost position puts the PID in control (Pot thermostat wide open). Again the green indicator shows the unit is powered up & the red showing that the PID is in operation. As the pot approaches the set temperature it will begin to cycle on & off with the red light flashing in unison with the opening & closing of the solid state relay (SSR).      You'll note that my PID is set for 355 degrees centigrade (671F). I have since found that my “sweet spot” is 345 degrees centigrade (653F). I had just turned the PID on when I took this pic. The PID is showing the pot temp to be 52.9 degrees centigrade (127.22F).      Yes, my PID registers in Centigrade only. No big deal as a conversion chart is readily available online.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

Another. Note that I used some (TIG) welding rod to make a holder for the probe. Still using the same one two years later.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

Last One

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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onondaga posted this 11 May 2014

Thanks for the pictures  Pat, that looks like point to point wiring with 1/4” crimp on connectors and the cutouts in the project box probably took the most time!!!! The Lee pot itself is 500 watts so 14 ga. wire would be fine.

I want to give this a try. I have welding rod and an outlet already.

Gary

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Pigslayer posted this 11 May 2014

onondaga wrote: Thanks for the pictures  Pat, that looks like point to point wiring with 1/4” crimp on connectors and the cutouts in the project box probably took the most time!!!! The Lee pot itself is 500 watts so 14 ga. wire would be fine.

I want to give this a try. I have welding rod and an outlet already.

Gary
Gary,      I made the cutouts in the sheet metal with my Dremel tool & a cutoff wheel, finishing up with a fine file. As I had mentioned I made the enclosure out of sheet metal left over from installing my new furnace. I have this cool little (18") sheet metal brake that I bought from grizzly industrial (for cheap like I am) to make my bends with.  #14GA wire is more than big enough. Your pot at 750 wats will only draw 6.25A. #14 GA is good for 15A. You may want to size down a little.      I actually keep a number of 25' rolls of 18 ga. tinned project wire in my little shop for situations like this. The tinned wire (18GA) in “free air” is good for about 15A. I get that tinned wire from McMaster-Carr online. Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Frozone posted this 13 May 2014

Just in case anyone is interested.

http://jconninv.com

I've built hundreds of these units.

I'm a retired EE. Kits are complete and wiring is done with only a screw driver. Ever built an old heath kit? same idea here.

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Pigslayer posted this 13 May 2014

Frozone wrote: Just in case anyone is interested.

http://jconninv.com>http://jconninv.com

I've built hundreds of these units.

I'm a retired EE. Kits are complete and wiring is done with only a screw driver. Ever built an old heath kit? same idea here.   Frozone,      Hmmmmmmmmm. You joined CBA 2 years ago & this is your 3rd post and it being one for hawking your wares. You're using about $50.00 worth of parts & selling the plug and play unit for . . . $175.00!!!!!! The DIY kit for $140.00 !!!!! What a deal! I might feel a little differently if you showed up & posted once in a while & offered some useful information. The killer is that your website advertises “castboolits” as the go-to place for cast bullet information. (Note the spelling for “bullets"). You're bold! Pat  

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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vmwilson posted this 14 May 2014

All I'll add is that when I built mine,   Frozone was very helpful.  And FWIW I believe a unit from Uncle Russ was in the $190 range.

Mike

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Frozone posted this 14 May 2014

Pigslayer wrote:    You're bold! Pat  

Thank you.

I take it you don't want one then?

 

I don't believe the number of posts made is a requirment for membership.

As a general rule high post count = a lot of hot air to spill.

 

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