First cast bullet test was a complete success

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  • Last Post 27 February 2015
Kyle M. posted this 28 November 2014

Hello all I just cast my first bullets on Tuesday using the lee 6 cavity .358, 158gr SWC mold and sized them with a lee .358 sizing die, I also tumble lubed with lee liquid alox. I braved the 28 degree temps about 2 hours ago and went to the range to test them, I shot 50 rounds through my S&W model 1905 1st change, and another 50 through my 7 shot Taurus 66. I got absolutely no leading in my S&W and only a tiny bit towards the muzzle in my Taurus, which came right out with a bore brush. Both guns shot to point of aim at 15 yards which is my average plinking distance, load was 3.0grs of Bullseye. I gotta say I've been tempted to get into casting for about 3 years, but always was afraid that I'd find it too difficult, now that I know otherwise I can see myself doing this for a long long time.

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onondaga posted this 28 November 2014

http://castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=8646>Kyle M.

That is great, Sometimes it is pretty easy to get cast to shoot well. Actually, with experience, cast can be made to shoot better than jacketed from a revolver.

Bullet sizing is king with cast. The largest diameter bullet that will easily load usually has the best accuracy. I don't have a firearm that I shoot cast with that I didn't custom hone a Lee bullet sizing die for to get the best accuracy.

.358 is usually too small for the .38s

Gary

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 28 November 2014

Kyle M -

Welcome to the addiction.

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delmarskid1 posted this 29 November 2014

Feels good don't it!

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Kyle M. posted this 29 November 2014

I'll keep that in mind and possibly try a few as cast rather than sized. I've been shooting commerially cast .358 diameter bullets in the S&W for awhile with good luck. This is my first time shooting the Taurus because I just got it thursday, I'm sure there will be some trial and error involved.

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James S posted this 29 November 2014

Hello Kyle,  You didn't mention any grouping.  I am curious because being fairly new to casting I have picked up that the cast should be about 0.001” or 0.002” over this measurement for best accuracy.  Do you know your bore diameter of the S&W model 1905?  If it is the 38 spl it's caliber should be 0.357"to 0.358".

My revolver I'm working on is a British returned 1943 S&W 'Victory', it will have the 38/200 caliber as issued 5” barrel.  General bore diameter for these revolvers were 0.3601".  This barrel is a new OEM replacement I found and purchased.  So I expected it to be 0.3601” or close, hence my hesitance to look for a mold until I know it's true bore.

I've measured my bore only generally and I came up with 0.3603".  I have yet to build a fixture that will hold the slug correctly to measure circumference of the 5 rifling's.  The best I can guess right now is 0.3603 +/- 0.0002.  I make it look a lot more accurate than the measurement can really be done right now.  I found the math to calculate it and came up with a fixture to give me the values need to plug into it.  The end of the year is always a rough time in transportation, so I haven't made it yet!

I was told the 2” snub nosed “detective” revolver I bought was a 38 spl.  So when I put a 38 spl in the cylinder it didn't fit, OAL was wrong. I looked for a box of 38 S&W (not as easy as it sounds) and found some.  I placed a round in the cylinder and it still didn't feel right.  So I dropped a 0.358” cast bullet in the barrel and it fell right through, I was perplexed to say the least!  I measured the box of 38 S&W and they mic'd to 0.357", right OAL but not the right caliber!  Yes, it is the British 38/200, which had been chopped in some garage by the look of it, oh my my.

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delmarskid1 posted this 29 November 2014

James S wrote: Hello Kyle,  You didn't mention any grouping.  I am curious because being fairly new to casting I have picked up that the cast should be about 0.001” or 0.002” over this measurement for best accuracy.  Do you know your bore diameter of the S&W model 1905?  If it is the 38 spl it's caliber should be 0.357"to 0.358".

My revolver I'm working on is a British returned 1943 S&W 'Victory', it will have the 38/200 caliber as issued 5” barrel.  General bore diameter for these revolvers were 0.3601".  This barrel is a new OEM replacement I found and purchased.  So I expected it to be 0.3601” or close, hence my hesitance to look for a mold until I know it's true bore.

I've measured my bore only generally and I came up with 0.3603".  I have yet to build a fixture that will hold the slug correctly to measure circumference of the 5 rifling's.  The best I can guess right now is 0.3603 +/- 0.0002.  I make it look a lot more accurate than the measurement can really be done right now.  I found the math to calculate it and came up with a fixture to give me the values need to plug into it.  The end of the year is always a rough time in transportation, so I haven't made it yet!

I was told the 2” snub nosed “detective” revolver I bought was a 38 spl.  So when I put a 38 spl in the cylinder it didn't fit, OAL was wrong. I looked for a box of 38 S&W (not as easy as it sounds) and found some.  I placed a round in the cylinder and it still didn't feel right.  So I dropped a 0.358” cast bullet in the barrel and it fell right through, I was perplexed to say the least!  I measured the box of 38 S&W and they mic'd to 0.357", right OAL but not the right caliber!  Yes, it is the British 38/200, which had been chopped in some garage by the look of it, oh my my.It's best to go by the diameter of your revolvers cylinder throat to size your cast bullets. They should push through with a bit of resistance.

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James S posted this 30 November 2014

Hi delmarskid1, well that'll make it easy to measure.  I don't remember the cylinder throat diameter so I'll go back and measure that.  I know the reducing cone is 0.370".  Thanks.  James.

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Kyle M. posted this 30 November 2014

To tell you the truth I've never really shot any gun that I've had for group, I find it kind of boring. I'm a plinker I like to shoot at old soup and soda cans, and bottles and whatever else I can find, I'll shoot a few paper targets to sight in or verify point of aim and then it's off to something else. Lately I've been shooting a lot of those little rubber reactive targets, and the ones that spin when you hit them, I also have 12” steel gongs at 50 and 100 yards at my dads place. So sorry I can't help you with the groups, but I was able to keep 6 shots with my bullets in a 2” ragged hole at 30 feet off hand, honestly for what I do thats plenty good enough.

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James S posted this 30 November 2014

Well, Kyle For not shooting groups a 2” hole at 30 ft(10 yds) is still a group! I understand not needing to know how accurate the revolver could be or spending too much time to find out. Sometimes you just don't have the time or as you say “for what I do thats plenty good enough". I'm currently in Crestline and couldn't do a thing if I wanted to! LoL.

Did you shoot it at the reactive targets or the gongs? Did it hit home? Just asking. James.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 01 December 2014

hey ! another plinker !! i used to obsess at indoor 3-4 position rimfire ... then obsess at coyote hunting ... then obsess at rimfire benchrest ... now i have come out of the closet and obsess at bean cans and scrap metal that jumps or clangs when hit. notice that the common denominator is ... OBSESSION !!

life is good ...

ken

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gpidaho posted this 01 December 2014

Hello Kyle: Like Ken, I used to obsess over this and that, mostly shooting groups and have very good equipment to do just that. That was all over in the J word world. I began casting for rifles so I could afford to plink at what ever at distance. When I do sit at the bench to fire groups I often find myself distracted by that white rock way up there on the hillside or those ground squirrels that live in the slums down range. There are a few of us here at the CBA who cast and shoot for other reasons than organized competition. We each have our own reasons  for this hobby, but we wouldn't be here talking about it if we weren't having FUN.  GP

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 01 December 2014

right on, GP ... although i do think we have SOME socially redeeming value ... better groups make better plinking !!

and flat and hollow points make bigger holes in coke cans ... and better lubes let us lazy plinkers shoot more cigar boxes of ammo at a single plinkerfest ...

ken

wanna see my molds ? i got a new panoramic camera ...

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gpidaho posted this 01 December 2014

Sure I would, everyone likes the pics. NEW camera, moulds,guns nnd reloading equipment.  We luvs us r toys.   GP

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Kyle M. posted this 01 December 2014

I actually shot one paper target to verify point of aim which wast dead on at that distance, then went to popping cans, bottles, milk jugs, and just about anything else I could find to fill with water. Your right of course that ragged 1 hole off hand group is technically a group, I was thinking sitting down at a solid rest groups, something that I honestly don't think I've ever done. 

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James S posted this 02 December 2014

Well, I hope I can get some more time available to start the next step in getting my “Victory” revolver done!  And go a “plinking". But I will see how accurate it can be, too.  James 

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Bongo Boy posted this 01 February 2015

Yup, another one bites the dust! Welcome. I've only been casting for maybe 5 years or so but I still get as thrilled as you are now when those range visits are a big success. It's especially fun when you compare how many beautiful cast bullets you put up on your bench vs buying commercial jacketed. Do you size using something such as a Lubri-Sizer and if so, do you have plans to lube that way as well? Anyway, congratulations and enjoy!!

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18mm posted this 27 February 2015

Don't you love it when a plan comes together? No looking back now. You are a dyed in the wool caster now

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