Kit Build: Traditions Frontier Flintlock

  • 13K Views
  • Last Post 22 December 2014
onondaga posted this 04 December 2014

Building : Traditions Frontier Flint Rifle

Here is my completed rifle, but the tutorial build goes though all my steps.

The first part to fit to the wood is the lock plate. After removing about .010” all around the factory inlet the lock plate dropped right in. This was file work and took 1 hour to get a fit that allowed the lock to easily drop in or out cleanly and easily. This fit allows room for wood finish.

Next the side plate washers and screws. The screw holes in the wood were fuzzy. I filed out the fuzz and checked alignment of the holes to the lock. After screw trial, one hole had to be slightly widened about .010” and then the screws both easily installed to hold the side plate washers on. This took about 1 hour and the screws were lightly snugged to keep the parts together.

Next the tang is fit. The tang literally fell in, but the hole through the stock for the tang screw was fuzzy. I filed out the fuzz. The screw then dropped right in but needs to be kept out till the trigger assembly is fit to the factory inlet.

Trigger fit required about .010” all around the inlet for an easy drop in drop out fit. The file work to the wood took a little over an hour but the screw went right in through the tang to the threaded hole in the trigger assembly. I lightly snugged up the screw to hold the parts together.

The next step says, “ fix trigger guard” Sounds simple, it is not.

To be continued

Gary  2 hours

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
delmarskid1 posted this 04 December 2014

That doesn't sound too bad so far. “Fix the trigger guard” sounds a bit vague? Can you get ff the breech pug? It would be nice to do that before you polish the bore.

Attached Files

Maven posted this 04 December 2014

Good job on the tutorial, Gary!  I'll be following this thread very closely.  Btw, will you list the kinds of tools you'll be using for each phase of the project; file type for ex.?

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 04 December 2014

http://castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=348>delmarskid1

The breech plug is threaded and removable. I will evaluate if bore needs polishing much later, but would likely fire polish using 5 grains powder, a round ball  and patch soaked with Chrome Polish with 5 or more shots like that if needed.

Gary

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 04 December 2014

http://castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=126>Maven

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 04 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED:

The factory inlet for the trigger guard was wide and deep enough but about 1/8” short. A beginner might be stumped here. This view also shows the only figure in the wood.

I will deepen the guard inlet to set the guard in more. The factory finish on this brass part is brutal and brass finishing  before final assembly will be at least 2-3 hours for the guard.

Gary

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 05 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

The inlet deepening and pilot holes took an hour and a half. The bar of soap, bottom, was used on the screw threads before turning them in to the stock. The brass nose cap for the stock in the picture will not be fit now and is saved till after the barrel wedge tenon, rib and thimbles are fit. the sights are saved till later,  and the completed barrel's breech hook will be fit to the the already fit tang.

So, next is some barrel hardware fitting.

Gary  at 3.5 hours

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 05 December 2014

Is there an original to use as a model? Is this flinter a re-make of an oldie or more generic of the type?

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 05 December 2014

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=2514>tturner53

The Traditions Frontier Flint rifle is a period generic style muzzle loader.  The style period it imitates is a frontier rifle at the end of the flintlock era when hooked breeches were popular on flintlocks.

This is to be a sporting field rifle for me to use Deer and Bear hunting,  and for recreational shooting. It is a basic flintlock rifle and is also considered an entry level flintlock.

Some reviews,videos, information, etc about this rifle:

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&biw=1366&bih=657&sclient=psy-ab&q=traditions+frontier+flintlock+rifle&btnG=&search_plus_one=form&oq=traditions+frontier+flintlock+&gs_l=serp.12..0.19524.33542.0.37372.16.16.0.0.0.2.184.2639.0j16.16.0.msedr...0...1c.1.58.psy-ab..11.5.815.mWTw44FvpzA&pbx=1>https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&biw=1366&bih=657&sclient=psy-ab&q=traditions+frontier+flintlock+rifle&btnG=&searchplusone=form&oq=traditions+frontier+flintlock+&gsl=serp.12..0.19524.33542.0.37372.16.16.0.0.0.2.184.2639.0j16.16.0.msedr...0...1c.1.58.psy-ab..11.5.815.mWTw44FvpzA&pbx=1

The Traditions Frontier rifle is also available in a percussion kit version and both are available as finished rifles too.

Gary

Attached Files

delmarskid1 posted this 05 December 2014

Looking good. Better pace yourself...or buy another!

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 05 December 2014

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=348>delmarskid1

The tenon for the barrel wedge is next and this is a key part that has to be fit very well. I am using magnification and evaluating the tenon, it's dovetail and the dovetail groove factory cut into the barrel. This will take thoughtful sanding/filing of the part to get it in 2/3 of the way and down all the way. When it is fit that far,  the last 1/3 of the way is drifted in with a punch from right to left.

An airspace between the bottom of the tenon dovetail and the bottom of the barrel groove is a sloppy fit that won't hold up in use. This part has an important function to retain the barrel wedge and secure the barrel down to the stock and hold the barrel back into the tang for the breech hook.

Gary

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 06 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

The barrel tenon is a meat  of the project part. I use a granite floor-tile for a flat work surface, 180 grit Aluminum  Oxide cloth on the flat and hand hold the part for stroking to reduce the bottom of the tenon's dovetail till it will start in the dovetail slot in the barrel.

Initial trial showing large space indicating approximately how much metal needs to be removed from the bottom of the Tenon dovetail.

250 strokes and it doesn't fit, Tomorrow I will try my Craftsman Table sander and post a picture of the part fitting 2/3 of the way in. The part won't be drifted all the way in till after the barrel is finished.

My arm and fingers hurt!!

Gary

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 06 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

It didn't take power tools to get the Tenon to fit.

The flash hole plug fits nice and nearly flush with the barrel flat. So check fit is good. It will be installed when metal finish is done. I use Never Seize thread grease on these for regular removal/cleaning.

The Tenon and Flash Hole Plug fitting took 3 hours work.

Next will be trial fitting of the barrel under rib and the brass ramrod thimbles.

Gary at 6.5 hours

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 07 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

Next I polished a few of the Brass parts. I use a 2 speed Baldor Dental Bench Motor with a Jacobs chuck. I have a tapered spindle that holds muslin buffing wheels and I used regular Jewelers rouge to polish at high speed on the motor.

The 2 ramrod thimbles and the forend nose cap have their final finish now and these three parts took 1/2 hour to polish.

 I also rounded the sharp edges of the steel on the steel barrel under rib with a 3M Cratex wheel  at that time.

Gary  at 7 hours

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 07 December 2014

My dining room is now a total disaster with the kit building, but you can see the Baldor bench motor and dust catch on the table.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 07 December 2014

Looks good so far. The flash hole plug picture reminded me of a TC Hawken I got long ago. It is a kit gun, already finished, nice enough, but is convertible from flint to percussion by changing out the plug for a bolster and switching locks. It's a very early TC .50 and shoots great either way.

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 07 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

Attached Files

Maven posted this 07 December 2014

Excellent job thus far, Gary!  :)

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 08 December 2014

Pencil marks:

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 08 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

I got industrious and fit the breech tang by sanding down the stock using the pencil marks as a guide. the tang also needed to be inlet farther back toward the butt to align the Flash Hole on the barrel with the fire-hole cutout on the lock plate. It took considerable scraping with small bottoming files to get the tang set back another 3/32” to mate up.

The fitted tang in it's set back position and with stock tapered to the height of the tang. The tang is now back, down and solid when screwed through to the trigger assembly and barrel try-in is good also.  This step of the woodwork took 3 hours and the wrist of the stock has been blended in and is ready for final sanding before stain.

The brass barrel wedge plates were also removed to refine their factory inlet and the brass will be polished, that is the next step.

Gary at 12 hours

Attached Files

onondaga posted this 08 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

The balance of the brass parts have been polished. The edges were smoothed with the Cratex wheel. These were stamped parts with sharp edges and I pre-buffed the edges with Tripoli on a muslin buff and buffed out scratches before a high shine with rouge on another muslin buff. I also buffed the 4 small brass screws for the barrel wedge plates. This was 1 hour work at the Baldor bench motor. These parts were all rough factory stamped unfinished parts that shine now.

Attached Files

Show More Posts
Close