Has anyone used aluminum gas checks. I was thinking of getting some to use on .30 carbine bullets. Looking for pros & cons.
Gas checks
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- Last Post 02 April 2015
My experience so far is positive. Can't tell a difference except for price. That said, either copper or aluminium may or may not be a good fit on your particular bullet shank. Too small is a real no go. Too big is also a pain but may be workable. I'm planning on a big buy of aluminium .30s from Sage. Big stash equals peace of mind. I also like Gator copper .30s but nobody makes a check as perfect as good old (expensive) Hornady's.
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A father and son that are members of this forum own and run Sages. I use their Aluminum checks in all my calibers and find them equal in performance to any commercial checks I have ever used with no difference on targets.
Their variety of quantities offered make it very easy if you wish a small amount just to try their products. Their volume prices are terrific when you decide to buy high volume.
Gary
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my friend john makes his own checks from aluminum sheet from home depot, and shoots several calibers with 1-2.5 moa ...in plinker rifles ....ie, as good as cast gets ... apparently ( g ) ...
oh, annealing is important, he tells me. after the work-hardening forming, and before seating.
ken
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I make my own aluminum checks, just 30 cal. so far but will be getting other dies soon. One big advantage is being able to vary material thickness to fit the bullet bands and shank. If you enjoy the “Do it yourself route” it is a good way to supply the peace of mind Tim speaks of. In retirement I enjoy the bench work. If your time is limited I say Sage is the way to go. As with all aspects of cast bullets fit is king. GP
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U may want to try vulcan checks. their web site is : vulcanchecks.com they hav al/cu
checks and size to your shank. they are also cast bullet association friendly.
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We have done quite a bit of testing between Aluminum and Copper Gas Checks. The big thing we have noticed between the two is that Aluminum checks have a tendancy to be slightly more “springy” than the copper. Aluminum checks want to go back to their original shape after sizing. This effect though is typically so small that it is barely noticeable.
Obviously another big difference is weight. Copper checks are significantly much heaver than aluminum checks. In the case of 30 caliber the weight difference is almost 3 times. You may have to do some more load development if you are going to switch between the two.
In either case both checks can be annealed if you wish and some places will pre anneal their checks for you.
My suggestion would be if you are going to go with aluminum checks would be to measure your gas check shank prior to ordering. Aluminum checks can very greatly in size and if you measure the shank you can get an aluminum check that would fit best for you. The formula to determine the proper aluminum thickness is Thickness = ((Sized Bullet Diameter) - (Gas Shank Diameter)) / 2 .
Good luck!
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Most bore cleaners are designed to clean weapon bores with copper(copper alloys including brass) and lead fouling. There has to be some residue from using any gas check, smeared copper or aluminum. Is commercially marketed bore cleaner designed for copper and lead going to remove the aluminum deposits? This is something I have always wondered. Bruce
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There doesn't have to be smeared aluminum from aluminum gas checks. That is an assumption. I have fired many thousands of cast bullets with aluminum gas checks and have no such problem. Copper gas checks have given me no such problem either.
I am sure there has to be some method of making that kind of mess but nothing I do to shoot cast bullets makes that kind of mess.
Gary
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before anybody decides to use sodium hydroxide ( oven cleaner ,,, red devil ) to clean aluminum out of your barrel ...which i would guess would take under 2 seconds ... remember that is mainly what is in hot bluing ” salts ” ...
ken
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I like Hornady gas checks because they crimp on the bullet.
I have used other gas checks that do not crimp on and have been satisfied with them with one exception. The gas check usually stays in the cartridge neck if you have to pull the bullet from the case for any reason.
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Three specific factors may be helpful as reasons I get no metal fouling from gas checks:
1) My bores are all polished by hand with my bore polishing method:
2) My gas checked bullets are lightly tumble lubed once before size/check and once after. This places a lube coating on the entire bullet and the gas checks. My lube is:
3) I pull a clean dry BoreSnake through the bore once every five shots.
Gary
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