Hello to all, I am getting set up to cast bullets for .577 NE and .500 S&W rifle. I look forward to meeting you . Annoying questions to follow! Thanks, Brian
New member from BC Canada
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- Last Post 12 March 2015
giorgio de galleani
posted this
08 March 2015
Since you have been bitten by the cast bullets bug , your fate is written .
What is your rifle in 500 S&W ? I reckon that the 500 is too big for a revolver , but it would be nice to have in a carbine .
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onondaga
posted this
08 March 2015
Have fun. I cast for .500S&W rifle, bullets 250-440 gr., also use 50 cal ML sabots with 45 cal pistol bullets in that caliber to 2450 fps.
My favorite bullet is the RCBS 50-340 plain base, I shoot it 1700 fps with a couple of powders and this is my Black Bear load for an Ultra Handi-rifle.
Gary
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Brian
posted this
09 March 2015
Yes, I sure have the bug already. The 500S&W is in a H&R Handy Rifle. (22” barrel) I made a stock that is much straighter and I will raise the sights about 1/2 inch. Rear sight will be a peep sight. I got a 400gr mould from Accurate Moulds. I'm excited! Gary, your black bear load sounds perfect. Probably a great moose load too. Can you tell me how much tin and antimony is in your alloy? Thanks for the note, Brian
PS. I bought some alloy ingots from Roto Metals before I had a clue what I needed: Hardball, Lyman#2 and Linotype. I want to make a tough/hard bullet from my new 650gr. Accurate Mould for the 577NE. About 2000 fps. (Actually a 585FH by Ed Hubble; also in a H&R Handi Rifle. Will weigh 12 lbs. +) Since I bought the alloy I began to learn about how too much Antimony makes the bullet too brittle. I am going on a Cape Buffalo hunt. I guess that I must add pure lead to the alloy that I have, to cast a nice tough bullet that will perform like a “solid” and still hold together. Right? Do I want go end up with some thing like 93/3/4 for a cape buffalo bullet? Thanks to both for your encouragement and advice, Brian
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RicinYakima
posted this
09 March 2015
With the 577 NE, it is not going to make much difference. (But remember this theory with me, never shot one!) The Lyman #2 should be great except for the shoulder bones, and “hardball” will expand, if you need it. Starting at .577+ expansion is not an issue, but penetration is the key. A 50/70 450 grains bullet at 1250 kills American Bison just fine at 50 yards. But they aren't going to attack you unless you are in the way of their escape!
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Brian
posted this
09 March 2015
I thik that you hit the nail on the head. The perfect mix is somewhere around hardball and Lyman #2. And it is all about penetration. I have killed two Cape buffalo at close range : used NorthFork Cup point solid and Cutting Edge Bullets solid in 375 HH. Both heart shots. They both ran 30 yds. I am looking for the same bullet performance with cast bullets. (I don't want expanding bullets for cape buffalo.)The belief is that if you hit a cape buffalo right with the first shot he won't charge. I want straight line penitration with no expansion and no bullet shattering. I think it will be very satisfying to hunt a cape buffalo with homemade cast bullets. Thanks, Brian
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onondaga
posted this
09 March 2015
Any higher than 5% Antimony in a bullet alloy gives an undesirable alloy fragmentation factor with big game cast bullet loads in my preference.
I tailor my load velocities to give me 1,000 foot pounds for deer or 1,200 foot pounds for Bear at the maximum range I expect to have game shots, no further. My Bear load with a 340 gr FNGC at 1700 fps delivers good ethical harvesting power for Bear out to 200 yards. My bullets don't fragment, they expand to about double caliber and pass through game from any shot angle. The .500 S&W Handi does this nicely for me.
My Handi is just over 10 pounds, all up. The butt-stock is weighted.
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Brian
posted this
09 March 2015
I think that is what I will cast for my 500 S&W too. Sounds perfect for deer and up to moose in the bush.Thanks for the help and the great picture! Brian
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onondaga
posted this
09 March 2015
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Brian
posted this
09 March 2015
That's a nifty looking little bullet. Is Lyman # 2 your “go to” hunting alloy or do you mix any pure lead in some times? Thanks, Brian
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onondaga
posted this
09 March 2015
I get certified Lyman #2, sources:
http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/lyman2bulletmetal.htm
or
These certified alloys are true to formula and completely consistent. I prefer that quality for hunting but will use a variety of alloys similar to Hardball Pistol Alloy that I mix myself for recreational shooting.
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onondaga
posted this
09 March 2015
The Little Lee bullet zips and shoots under 1” @ 50 yards consistently but the big flat nose 50-340 smacks game down a lot harder and shoots just as well for me.
The sabotted bullets are worth experimenting with if you are a velocity worshiper.
One particular product that significantly increases accuracy in .500 S&W for me with every bullet I shoot in this caliber is BPI Original Filler. All my charges are topped off with filler for mild load compression. This significantly lowers Extreme Spread in velocity for me and the stuff also acts as a quasi gas check for plain base cast bullets to extend the pressure range of the alloy I use. Direct Source:
MidwayUSA and other sources also have this product.
My groups are about 30% larger if I don't use BPI with any bullet I have tried in .500 S&W rifle. So, I gave up and use it in all my loads for this caliber.
Just as a note, the Lee 440 FNGC is the only bullet I have tried that is long enough to seat engaging the lands in my chamber. The bullet has excellent accuracy but just kicks too hard for me. It is far left in the photo and has an Aluminum gas check from http://www.sagesoutdoors.com/index.php?idcategory=6&controller=category
Gary
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Brian
posted this
09 March 2015
Thanks, I will order some of that Filler. It will probably work in the big 585FH case as well. Gllod idea!Recoil on the Handi rifle: I put 1/2 lb. of shot/epoxy in my forend. Also I made a different stock and forend. Stock is much straighter than original so I changed the sights and raised them 1/2 inch. Felt rcoil is softer. I use a peep for the rear sight. Here a picture of the stock. Hope it goes through. Thanks for the good info.
file:///Users/briangallup/Desktop/gunstock.png
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Brian
posted this
09 March 2015
PS. I like that 440 FNGC. Big meplate. Moose killer! Brian
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onondaga
posted this
09 March 2015
There is a good variety of after market stocks for Handi's . The one in my pic has compartments in the but stock and forend. I have bird-shot topped with silly putty in the butt compartment.
If you decide to scope. I recommend slightly long eye relief for eye safety. My scope is a 1.5-4-5 shotgun scope with 4” eye relief. My mount is a one piece extra high Dednutz , completely solid and has held steady over 2,000 rounds.
The factory stock on mine is light and dark laminated wood and a little too flashy for me but it comes up well. I also have a .223 Rem heavy varmint barrel for this rifle that shoots terrifically.
Gary
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Brian
posted this
10 March 2015
Gary, I was going to ask you about your scope. What you describe would be the perfect set up for me. Perfect magnification too. Thanks for the info.And, you are sure right about the long eye relief. I always wondered if those shotgun would be good for a nifty little bush gun. Good to hear, Brian
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onondaga
posted this
10 March 2015
I make a firm recommendation for the scope and mount I specifically use on the .500 S&W Handi. The scope is not an expensive one but has good clarity and utility. The mount, I particularly recommend for the high recoil of the .500 S&W. The factory base and weaver rings blew apart from recoil of the .500 S&W. The DNZ one piece Extra High mount has been completely solid and has maintained zero for over 2,000 rounds when the factory base and weaver rings blew up at 50 rounds.
My scope:
or, this 2-7x Bushnell with 5” eye relief is also an excellent choice:
Each of these Bushnell scopes has quick AO, or adjustable ocular lens for your individual eyesight...an important feature for excellent clarity.
My DNZ one piece Extra high mount:
I don't believe there is any mount better or stronger than this DNZ for the Handi Rifle and the extra high is needed for clearance. plus, get a hammer spur if you use a scope on your Handi rifle. You can see this scope mount system and hammer spur if you really look in my picture above in answer #7.
Hammer Spur:
You need a hammer spur or you will not be able to cock the hammer with a scope mounted on the Handi-Rifle.
NOTE: You will likely have to remove the rear sight from the ramp on your Handi as I did for scope clearance.
Gary
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onondaga
posted this
10 March 2015
Brian, I hope you get your Handi setup well with a scope. I really stress the mount I recommended, it is well worth the money for the strength you need in .500 S&W.
I have taken Black Bear with my Handi in .500 S&W and the power of my load with the 50-340 RCBS bullet at 1700 fps gives me good safety confidence when hunting Bear and I am alone with no back-up. My shots are generally short and under 100 yards, but my load has dependable Bear dropping energy out to 200 yards.
If you are curious, my load is easily a safe load for the Handi with the 50-340:
30 grains Hodgdon LilGun 11.8 grains BPI Original Filler to rim Bullet seated to 2.047” OAL
Alloy #2 Bullet seated as cast and not sized measures .502” diameter 45:45:10 Deluxe bullet lube 2 coats
Gary
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