hardball bullet casting alloy

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  • Last Post 21 July 2015
castrookie posted this 20 July 2015

hi hope someone can help me im looking to cast bullets for hunting cal. 30 30 so im looking into the hardball alloy which i see its little harder than lyman #2 thay state that the bhn is 16 im looking to do around bhn 18 i think with out the bullet being brittle now i have read that lead gets hard with age so is water quenching necessary for this alloy or let it cool on its own and its okay to use this way i have read that alloy with antimony of 6 or higher gets hard fast what you guys think thank you.

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onondaga posted this 20 July 2015

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=9143>castrookie

Certified Hardball Pistol alloy is the same hardness as certified Lyman #2 alloy. They are both available from RotoMetals and are BHN 15.  I purchase Lyman #2 from Roto for all my hunting bullets. The high  Tin content  in #2 alloy makes it much more malleable than Hardball so even though they are the same BHN hardness, the #2 has zero weight loss and better expansion due to the Tin in the alloy. I consider it  a perfect hunting bullet alloy and Lyman #2 has been the #1 choice of hunting bullet casters for 100 years due to it's malleability for terrific expansion and zero weight loss when striking game animals.

For recreational shooting and practice I make an alloy the same hardness as Lyman #2 or Hardball by alloying soft jacketed bullet scrap and Linotype scrap at 1:1. It impacts at the same POI as Certified #2 alloy from my guns and is inexpensive for me to make.

Here is a link to RotoBetals that sells Certified bullet casting alloys if you want some real accurately alloyed #2 or hardball and other certified bullet alloys:

http://www.rotometals.com/Bullet-Casting-Alloys-s/5.htm>http://www.rotometals.com/Bullet-Casting-Alloys-s/5.htm

Sign up for RotoMetals email sales! they have sales and shipping bargains for certain volumes of weight, see this at the Roto site. Also gaining popularity for certified bullet alloys is:

http://www.zipmetals.com/Bullet-Casting-Metals_c_44.html>http://www.zipmetals.com/Bullet-Casting-Metalsc44.html The prices here are a bit better.

NOTE: hardball is only just OK for hunting bullets as it is high in Antimony and low in Tin, so it is brittle and hunting bullets of hardball will fragment into the meat of game. #2 alloy does not fragment into meat of game animals due to the alloy malleability with it's high Tin content.

I use #2 alloy gas checked bullets to just under factory load level pressures in .500 S&W rifle loads for big, dangerous Black Bears and really like it better than any jacketed bullet for Bear hunting.

I also use Certified Lyman #2 in gas checked bullets for 30-30 and shoot the Ranchdog big flat nose 165 gr FNGC mold bullets with great Deer hunting results to 150 yards from a 30-30 with H4895. at 2050 fps. They hit deer meat with a loud smack from the big flat nose and knock deer over dead very well.

Gary

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castrookie posted this 20 July 2015

Great thanks my other question is do you water quench the bullets or you let it air dry

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onondaga posted this 20 July 2015

I water quench nothing and prefer to use an alloy mixed as I need for the job. As cast alloys are much more stable in their physical properties than quenched alloys that change hardness significantly with age.

Here is the RD bullet next to the Lee 170 gr FNGC in 30-06. Note the really big flat nose of the RD bullet. Both are seated to engage the lands .010". The Lee mold was honed larger to contact the throat for my rifles but the RD bullet is fine with no modification and just sized/checked at .310” for my rifles. I tumble lube everything now with White's Deluxe  45:45:10 once before size/check and once after.

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castrookie posted this 20 July 2015

You have been great help thank you so much gary you have a wonderful day

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onondaga posted this 20 July 2015

Don't be fooled by the high BHN of commercially cast bullets. The commercial casting companies only do this for one reason.. hard bullets ship with less damage.

Unfortunately hard bullets are also more critical to fit for accuracy and they fragment into game meat.

Load your 30-30 to a little over 2000 fps or as high as you can go and still maintain 1” groups at 50 yards.  That is the best you will do with 30 caliber cast hunting bullets and a good 30-30 will do that fine if you work up a  H4895 load and your bullets fit the throat of your rifle with Lyman #2 alloy.

Note, I also use Aluminum Gas Checks that I get from a Forum member family owned company and have found along with many others that Aluminum gas checked bullets shoot as accurately as any copper gas check brand does and they are less expensive. The seller even has small quantities if you wish to just try Aluminum checks:

http://www.sagesoutdoors.com/6-aluminum-gas-checks

I recommend Sages checks completely and with no hesitation. Yep, I like them. Look closely at my picture above, one bullet has a commercial Copper check and one has an Aluminum Check from Sage's. You can see the color difference between Copper and Aluminum in the picture. They shoot the same with no measurable difference.

Gary

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castrookie posted this 21 July 2015

Ok great thanks for all of your help you have been a great help i was confused for a while on how to go about this and you have been wonderful thanks agian 

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