Hi-Tek Powdered Coating

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  • Last Post 16 April 2016
OU812 posted this 24 March 2016

Per instructions, but smaller amount I mixed 1 Tablespoon Hi-Tek powder to 1.75 ozs acetone in small squirt bottle. Put 70 bullets (22 caliber 62 grain LBT) in small plastic drink cup. Squirted a small amount into cup then shook bullets around for 30 seconds until caoated. Let air dry 1 hour on aluminum window screen. Then baked @390 degrees for 10 minutes on window screen.

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OU812 posted this 24 March 2016

After baking 10 minutes color is Gun Metal...or close to it. Usually 2 coats are required. One more coat is needed. This is my first try.

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OU812 posted this 24 March 2016

Here's second coat. Bullets look like Moly coated bullets in indirect light.

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OU812 posted this 25 March 2016

I practiced on the LBT bullets first before going to the NOE pointed bullets. I found that to get a more uniform coat you must keep tumbling bullets in cup until all liquid solvent has evaporated.

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OU812 posted this 25 March 2016

Doing lots better now. The 2 coats add about .0015-.002 thickness to bullet. Plain base bullet is coated at base to protect much like gas check. I sized the noses of the coated bullets in picture to .221, bands .225.

http://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/hi-tek-supercoat-powder-7-oz-container/>http://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/hi-tek-supercoat-powder-7-oz-container/

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OU812 posted this 25 March 2016

The LBT bullet on right. Gas check did not have to be flaired to fit...easy snap on without shaving. The long bearing surface section of the LBT requires longer leade/throat. The NOE bore rider requires a very short factory throat. I have a rifle for each. 

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 25 March 2016

sometime..... after you get a baseline it would be interesting to try a single, incomplete coat .

your reports are eagerly awaited ... hey did you know you can get some great groups at night ... less wind ...just need a light on the target ...oh, bring some bug spray ... heh ...

ken

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OU812 posted this 25 March 2016

Instructions say not to atomize or spray coating onto bullet...tumble only. I believe this stuff can be sprayed if gun is agitated well during spraying.

Instructions also say not to size before applying coating. I sized a few before coating and coating sticks just as well.

More solvent and less powder should produce smoother appearance.

Next I will be working on bore ride fit. Sizing for snug chambering without bullet being pushed back into case.

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OU812 posted this 25 March 2016

Ken Campbell Iowa wrote: sometime..... after you get a baseline it would be interesting to try a single, incomplete coat .

your reports are eagerly awaited ... hey did you know you can get some great groups at night ... less wind ...just need a light on the target ...oh, bring some bug spray ... heh ...

ken

Ken,  I will go shooting next week...too much going on to test right now. Hopefully the winds will be Very light.

Zombie Killer ;)

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mtngun posted this 25 March 2016

Thanks for sharing your experiment, OU812.  :)

I've tested Hi-Tek in one rifle, but will be doing some more and different tests to see if I missed something the first time around.

You seem to have got the hang of it.  I would only add that their recommended baking temp seems to be a bit high and it's easy to “burn” it, which makes it brittle and more prone to flake off.      I seem to remember that I experimented with as low as 350F.

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OU812 posted this 26 March 2016

OK I will turn the temp down to 350. There was no flaking during sizing bore ride section or bands, although I did notice some flaking on copper gas check. I will try installing gas check only after coating.

BTW bullets are a snug fit with noses sized at .221 and are not pushed back during chambering. I have a few loaded and will test Tuesday or Wednesday.

These longer 80 grain linotype bullets (actually 73.5 grains) have just one coat baked at 350 degrees. I will try shooting them at higher velocities (2100-2500 fps) to see if they will stabilize in 1-12 twist...will try AO, V133, V135, and Varget powder using 70,80,90 percent from minimum rule.

Most Zombie ideas I have do not work, but maybe this will ? 

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OU812 posted this 30 March 2016

Here are results of the Hi-Tek coating. The shorter 62,72 grain bullets (trimmed down 80 gr) did shoot in the 1-12 twist barrel, but the longer 80 grain did not. I brushed and pushed a dry patch down barrel between each group. Dry patch was a little difficult to push down barrel...fouling cause by bullet coating maybe. I believe grouping would have been better without the Hi-Tek coating.  

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OU812 posted this 30 March 2016

Rifle and range.

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mtngun posted this 30 March 2016

Thanks for posting the targets.    Good shooting.  :) Any estimate on the velocities?   Low teens ? I've got some hi-tek bullets in the furnace at the moment, ramping the temperature up gradually to see at what point the coating will melt or otherwise fail.   Will repeat with other coatings.

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OU812 posted this 30 March 2016

The 62 and 72 grain bullets were cast using 12 bhn birdshot alloy. Velocity about 1600-1800 using 6.5 grains of AO and Tite Group.

The 80 grain bullets were cast using Linotype alloy. Velocity about 2100-2300 using 17 grains of V133, and 18 grains of V135.

I will shoot all three different weight bullets again, but without Hi-Tek coating. I am sure they will do better using just the LBT. All will be cast using the Birdshot alloy.

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mtngun posted this 30 March 2016

Where do you get your birdshot?   Recycled, or new?

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OU812 posted this 30 March 2016

I purchase new Eagle Magnum birdshot from Roto Metals (12 bhn). I purchased the new Lawrence Magnum brand (14 bhn, more antimony) directly from Lawrence. When melting down new shot the graphite will rise to top of melt. Lawrence brand has way more graphite that must be skimmed off. Do Not inhale fumes!! Arsenic!!

I am thinking the new lead shot would not be contaminated with other metals such as bismuth and zinc.

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mtngun posted this 30 March 2016

Right, you never know for sure what is in reclaimed shot.

Though the reclaimed shot I got from Rotometals cast very nicely, and heat treated to 40 - 45 BHN.    Tough to melt down the first time, though.  

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OU812 posted this 30 March 2016

My new lead shot melted down very easily? I melted it down in a Lee 20 lb pot. The Lawrence brand (25 lb bag) had about one inch thick graphite floating on top when melted. The Eagle brand had about 1/4 inch graphite floating.

The harder Lawrence brand (14 bhn) seems to shoot better in my 223.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 30 March 2016

ou812::

great report.

did the longer 80 gr. show ” tumbling ” or just big groups ??

looking for more of your tests .

ken

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 30 March 2016

maybe grooves in bullets should be filled with uncompressable ” grease ” and not compressible powder .

or the other way around .

i love variables, .... they are so variable ...

ken

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OU812 posted this 31 March 2016

Ken Campbell Iowa wrote: ou812::

great report.

did the longer 80 gr. show ” tumbling ” or just big groups ??

looking for more of your tests .

ken

I aimed and shot at the two remaining targets without bullet holes...bullets never hit paper target (maybe barrel was too fouled...probably not) Next time out with the 80 grain bullet I will try different velocities and lube.

The free bullet stability programs that I use say this 80 grain bullet will not work with 1-12 twist. I will try a couple more things before giving up.

...

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Paul Pollard posted this 31 March 2016

What is the bullet length?

Also, what is AO powder?

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mtngun posted this 31 March 2016

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John Alexander posted this 31 March 2016

If I understand what is going on 22 cal. 80 grain bullet of shape of the pictures in post #6 shot in 12 inch twist.  Your stability program is right -- not even close to stabilized.  The NOE 22780 SP is .9 inches long and needs at least a 9 inch twist and even then some holes will be a bit oblong.

Another data point based on experience the NOE 22570 is .75” long and is just marginally stable (lots of oblong holes) out of a 10.7 inch twist (don't ask) and wouldn't stabilize out of a 12” twist.  So the chance of a .9 inch bullet being stabilized by a 12” twist is nil.  I am surprised that the Miller calculator says it is close.

John

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mtngun posted this 31 March 2016

You're right, John, I forgot he was shooting 22 not 6mm.    Long day here.  :D

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John Alexander posted this 31 March 2016

Faith in the Miller do dad restored. John

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gpidaho posted this 31 March 2016

Very good results yesterday with my new NOE 225-60-RN. (Saeco 221 copy) These were powder coated, with a charge of 6gr. TiteGroup, seated into the rifling of a Savage 112 Heavy barrel. Won't brag now until I see if it's repeatable but shows promise. I like the option NOE offers in that this 2 cavity mould has one gas check cavity and one plain base. (The plain base shot the better of the two in this instance) Will give it another try soon and see how it goes. Gp

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OU812 posted this 31 March 2016

Nobel Sport, Vectan AO is a square flake powder that has a burning rate close to Blue Dot but is a tad quicker.

The 80 grain bullet length is .919 without gas check. This bullet did not start shooting well with 1-12 twist until I trimmed off .074".  Shortened the 80 grain bullet to .845” by removing gas check shank (plain base, no gas check). This shorter 72 grain version shot good.

The even shorter 62 grain shot good. Shortened the 80 grain bullet to .770 by removing gas check shank and first band (gas check installed).

I will trim some more plain base 72 grain bullets to test. but without the coating.

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mtngun posted this 31 March 2016

OU812 wrote: The 80 grain bullet length is .919 without gas check. This bullet did not start shooting well with 1-12 twist until I trimmed off .074".  Shortened the 80 grain bullet to .845” by removing gas check shank (plain base, no gas check). This shorter 72 grain version shot good.

The even shorter 62 grain shot good. Shortened the 80 grain bullet to .770  Just for my own interest I ran Berger's Miller stability test on your bullets:  SF = 0.9 for your 72 gr. plain base,  SF=1.2 for the 62 grainer, depending on altitude, temperature, etc..

Thanks for the info.  :)

By the way, what color of Hi-Tek are you using?     I have the zombie green (I ordered the gold but they sent me green), which actually comes out khaki if I bake at 350, or coffee colored if I bake at 380.       

I'm waiting for an ESC gun to show up and then I'll put together another, more strenuous test of coatings.

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OU812 posted this 31 March 2016

Here are the plain base versions I cut on drill press using fine blade hobby saw. Bases of bullets were sanded even length.

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OU812 posted this 31 March 2016

My Coating color is Gun Metal Gray...lots darker than advertisement. I am sure this coating will work better in larger caliber, shorter barrel pistols.

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mtngun posted this 31 March 2016

That's pretty impressive work for a drill press.  :cool:

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 31 March 2016

years ago i trued up the bases in a lathe before i put on gas checks . those shot better than bullet bases as cast, with gas checks.

therefore your cutting bullets shorter may also be improving the bases .

just a thought that if 55-60 gr. 22 bullets are being tested, it might be of benefit to do a base-improvement cut .. not sure this is the same as straightening bases by heavy bump-up after gas checking . or powder-coated base protection ...

ken

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gpidaho posted this 31 March 2016

Ken: It's been my experience that powder coat can not be counted on as base protection as a gas check can. Plain base bullets I coat are set on drywall screws to elevate them and protect against flash build up on the base, As long as the powder coat breaks over the edge onto the base your good to go. Only place PC needs to be is where bullet meets bore, everything else is just so much overspray and in most cases does no harm,unless of course your adding too mush girth as could be the case on the nose of some bore riders. Gp

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mtngun posted this 31 March 2016

gpidaho wrote: Only place PC needs to be is where bullet meets boreYou might want to consider http://www.mountainmolds.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=552>this experiment with coating only the base, which made a dramatic difference. Is coating as effective as a gas check?   No, but I believe it works in a similar manner, up to a point where either the coating fails (melts?) or else enough heat is conducted through the coating to melt the lead.

Food for thought:   http://www.advancedimagingpro.com/publication/article.jsp?pubId=1&id=180>infrared photo of a jacketed bullet exiting the muzzle at 2750 fps.   Both the base and the grooves are hot enough to melt lead, and in fact, some jacket bullets do get http://benchrest.com/archive/index.php/t-65740.html>hot enough to melt the core. 

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gpidaho posted this 01 April 2016

mtngun: Sent you a Pm as it's long winded for the forum. I'll try and get son-inlaw to help me get some pic's posted. Gp

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mtngun posted this 01 April 2016

gpidaho wrote: mtngun: Sent you a Pm as it's long winded for the forum. I'll try and get son-inlaw to help me get some pic's posted. GpThanks.  :)

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gpidaho posted this 01 April 2016

mtngun: First, let me say that this post is in no way meant to argue the point made in post #36. I have a lot to learn and would like some clarification. What do you believe raises the temperature of the bullet base to the melting point?  Is it the powder burn lasting just milliseconds or the friction of bullet to bore or combination of both? If it's the powder burn, then how is it that when I use case filler (dacron) that it flys out the barrel unburnt like slightly browned snow in no way melted. If its the friction the my statement of only needing coating where bullet meets bore makes sense to me. What are your thoughts on this to help me see the mechanics at work. Thanks  Gp

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mtngun posted this 01 April 2016

gpidaho wrote: mtngun: First, let me say that this post is in no way meant to argue the point made in post #36. I have a lot to learn and would like some clarification. What do you believe raises the temperature of the bullet base to the melting point?  Is it the powder burn lasting just milliseconds or the friction of bullet to bore or combination of both? If it's the powder burn, then how is it that when I use case filler (dacron) that it flys out the barrel unburnt like slightly browned snow in no way melted. If its the friction the my statement of only needing coating where bullet meets bore makes sense to me. What are your thoughts on this to help me see the mechanics at work. Thanks  GpYes, hot gases melt the base.   http://www.mountainmolds.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=513&p=2271&hilit=dacron#p2271>experimented with dacron it was consumed inside the barrel.   No dacron was recovered downrange. It lowered velocities 250 fps, presumably because the energy required to melt & vaporize the dacron was subtracted from the energy of the burning powder. Why did your dacron fly out unharmed?   I'm guessing because your loads were operating at low enough pressure & temperature to not melt the dacron.

Friction is believed to be the main cause of core melting with jacketed bullets.    I suppose it is possible with cast bullets, too, though the CB's grooves and lube and naturally slippery lead should result in much less friction than a jacketed bullet.     Coatings do not seem to reduce friction  but perhaps the coating serves as an insulating layer that reduces heat transfer to the bullet?

If you believe that coatings work by eliminating lead rubbing against the barrel then please explain how gas checks work, since gas checks do not eliminate lead rubbing against the barrel?

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45 2.1 posted this 01 April 2016

mtngun wrote: Coatings do not seem to reduce friction Merril Martin wrote an article in Precision Shooting (later posted on the internet) about moly coating cast bullets many years ago. He noted that lead bullets did not “fin” when coated (pictures were posted showing this to be true), unlike any other treatment available then. They also had reduced friction. The gentleman was far ahead of anything that has been posted since.

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gpidaho posted this 01 April 2016

mtngun: As far as my understanding goes a gas check is just that, when properly sized it prevents gas blow by and cutting much like a piston rind in an engine. As you say, lead is naturally slippery and when everything is just right little to no extra lubrication is needed and the “lube” is in my opinion just more piston rings preventing gas blow by. Correct me if you believe I'm in error. Gp

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gpidaho posted this 01 April 2016

I can spell, I just can't type. lol Gp

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mtngun posted this 01 April 2016

45 2.1, moly is a dry lube. I was referring to common cast bullet coatings like powder coat or Hi-Tek.

I'm not aware of anyone successfully shooting hi-velocity cast with only a dry moly coat, though some people have used moly spray, which usually has some sort of resin base. For that matter most of the jacketed moly coatings employ some sort of wax or resin.

GpIdaho, why do you suppose a copper gas check is able to form a better gas seal than a plain base?

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gpidaho posted this 01 April 2016

mtngun: I don't believe it does in EVERY instance, and when it does it goes to the strength of the material, copper vs. lead. All this has been worked out long ago and that's why bullets are jacketed. We are in effect reinventing the wheel here and having a very good time doing it. Gp

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Brodie posted this 01 April 2016

mtngun, If I may but in here with my .02$ worth of observation and impressions: 1.  The heat exhibited by the bullet in your thermograph in post  #36 is most likely due to friction between the lands of the barrel and the bullet jacket.  Forcing a jacketed bullet through a rifled barrel so that it deforms in micro seconds takes a lot of force.  The excess energy becoming heat.

2.  All lubricants: traditional lubes, paint, hi-tek, molly dry and wet , form a layer between the bullet and barrel.  This is why they work.  A post by -I believe- Goodsteel demonstrates this where captured bullet were measured and showed the degree of deformation due to being swagged into the shape and conformation of the interior of the barrel while under pressure  (You know those little groove thingies we see on recovered bullets.) .  The higher the velocity the more force and friction and therefore heat.

3.  The exhibited melting of the bullet base is due to:  a. The heat from burning powder gasses and   b. The heat from friction.  That portion of the bullet which is in intimate (?) contact with the barrel is protected from melting by the action of the lubricant (any of the above will do) .  The unprotected plain base is the only place (besides the nose) where the bullet can exhibit melting due to high pressure hotter than heck gasses, temperature increase due to friction.

4.  Gas checks are about the same as any bullet jacked that covers the bullets rear end. They don't deform a whole lot in jacketed bullets and why would you expect them to do so in a smaller version on a cast lead slug.

5.  We are talking apples and oranges when we discuss and compare gpidaho and mtnguns bullets without taking into account the velocities each is being shot at.

6.  You can get away with using ONLY the lubricity of lead ( no coating, lubes, jackets or other stuff) if you shoot the bullets slow enough keeping pressures and heat down in the ranges that will not raise bullet temp high enough to melt the lead; during the bullets brief exposure to same.

I think that this summarizes what y'all have been talking about. 

gpidaho,  Take note I can't either type or spell worth a hoot any more. mtngun,   This is a fascinating subject and one that deserves more discussion and work.  I applaud your efforts and experience.

Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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45 2.1 posted this 01 April 2016

Excellent post Brodie............

I might add that it is a LOT harder on the bullet, that is very hard and basically has little protection, to start it from a dead start touching or engraved into the rifling than it is to have it moving some BEFORE it starts into the rifling. Designed and fitted correctly, the bullet does not suffer from doing this........

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Brodie posted this 01 April 2016

From looking at pictures like the one from mtngun in post #40 where the base of the bullet shows that molten (liquefied) lead appears on the base of the plain base bullet.  I believe that the base was liquefied or heated to a molten point and the then liquid lead was pushed up onto the sides of the bullet after it left the barrel. 452.1 said: I might add that it is a LOT harder on the bullet, that is very hard and basically has little protection, to start it from a dead start touching or engraved into the rifling than it is to have it moving some BEFORE it starts into the rifling. Designed and fitted correctly, the bullet does not suffer from doing this........"

Any time you load with the bullet forced into or touching  the lands you are going to raise pressure.  According to Charles Law ( I think it is this one) there is a direct relationship between pressure and temperature.  The higher the pressure the higher the Temp.  When I was diving we used to call Charles Law the “Hot Tank Law".  If you filled the vessel to capacity (rated PSI) quickly without bleeding the heat off ie. filling the tank while it was in a water bath.  The tank would be almost too hot to touch.  When it cooled down the pressure in the bottle was usually a couple to 300 PSI less.  There is also a direct relationship between pressure and velocity.  The higher the pressure the higher the velocity until you reach the point where you are digging pieces of brass, wood splinters, and steel out of your hide because the gun let go and now looks like something that Elmer Fudd tried to shoot Buggs with.

Taking the above into account we can now get an idea of how great the pressure differential is between the same cartridge with the bullet seated into the lands and one with a degree of jump or freebore before it hits the rifling.  Chronographing the two rounds one with the bullet seated some distance from the rifling, and the other with the bullet seated into the rifling will give us an idea of the pressure difference  between the two types of loads especially if we can get a couple of pressure readings at varying velocities.  I'm trying to come up with a way to get a handle on this without spending a couple of three grand on piezeo electric equipment.  If this can be done then you can predict with some degree of accuracy just how fast and how much pressure a given cast bullet can stand before it degrades physically enough to destroy accuracy.

Maybe I should have done this for that Physics 101 paper way back when insead of recoil.  Oh well!! Brodie PS. Thank You for the complement 45 2.1 I really appreciate it.

B.E.Brickey

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Brodie posted this 01 April 2016

Sorry I forgot to mention that reading this thread got me so worked up that I bought a jar of Candy Apple Red Hi-Tek Bullet Coating.  I think It may be the cure for that over sized throat in my 7.62x39 Zastava bolt action.  That thing has a throat that Maryln Chambers would envy.

B.E.Brickey

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OU812 posted this 02 April 2016

Anyone ever tumble cast bullets in fine sand?

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 02 April 2016

fine sand imbedded in my lead bullets ... no, can't say that i have tried that ...

although i do have a flaked-rusty barrel it might help scrape out ..

ken

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OU812 posted this 02 April 2016

I do not think sand will imbed the lead bullet when tumbled...sand blasted yes...rinse well. The courser finish on bullet should help any lube (dry moly, grease, etc.) adhere.

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gpidaho posted this 02 April 2016

Aluminum plates covered in foil, with used casings to shade gas check shank for powder coating.

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gpidaho posted this 02 April 2016

sorry if this is a repeat...aluminum plates with rivets for powder coating hollow points.

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OU812 posted this 03 April 2016

Notice high and low spots after sizing bore ride section to .219.

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OU812 posted this 03 April 2016

Zombie tactics

These are the same bullets tumbled (vibratory) in 80 grit garnet sand for One hour (too long...30 minutes should do it). I think less course 120 grit will do better. Any lube should adhere better now. I may try thinned Alox ...again . Or maybe dry moly.

I use this same  media (80 garnet) to blast metal gun parts before applying Cerakoat.

...

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gpidaho posted this 03 April 2016

OUB12: Looking at your post #55. I've had the same result but much more pronounced with some recently purchased moulds. (six cavity Lee) Your bullet (6th from left) looks like what I was getting after sizing through a Lee size die. How do they get them cut so out of round? Interesting shot of tumbled bullets in #56. What's the purpose? Are coated bullets failing the smash test when coated as they drop out of the mould? Are you trying to get more coating to build for bullet enlargement? Curious. Gp

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OU812 posted this 03 April 2016

Loose pin fit maybe the cause of not being perfectly round. Dull cherry maybe the cause also.

I noticed bullets measure slightly larger diameter after tumbling in sand. Nearly .001 larger

...

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gpidaho posted this 03 April 2016

OUB12: So, a knurling effect with a tumbler. Ok. Gp

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OU812 posted this 03 April 2016

gpidaho,

No cast bullet will cast perfectly round... even if your mould is cut and aligned perfectly round.

Been thinking about making my own lube using 50/50 blend of Synthetic 2 stroke oil and bees wax. The synthetic two stroke oil is good at high temp lubrication and reduceing carbon buildup.

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mtngun posted this 04 April 2016

gpidaho wrote: How do they get them cut so out of round?   Several possible causes but the common ones are misalignment of the two halves, not closing all the way (lead splatter or alignment pins sticking out too far to close all the way), or warping when the mold gets hot.

Agree with OU812 that perfect roundness is not realistic.   Even if the cavities are perfectly round at room temperature, all bets are off at casting temperature.  Some molds will drop bullets that are very close to round -- 0.0003” - 0.0004” out-of-round.   That is about the best you can hope for. GpIdaho, thanks for the photos. :)  My ESC gun arrived, hopefully I'll get some bullets sprayed in the next few days.

I'm guessing that tumbling in sand increases diameter for the same reason knurling increases diameter -- metal gets pushed in at spots, which in turn pushes metal out in the adjacent area    Keep the reports coming, OU812.  :)

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OU812 posted this 04 April 2016

OK...I got fifty 72 grain bullets cut and ready to lube then test.

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gpidaho posted this 04 April 2016

Worked on a 5'X 12' Storage area at my house today, got it all cleaned out and a lockable door put on. My new Powder coating-lead casting shop. Yea! No more having to tear down and set up every time I want to coat some bullets. Shop dedicated compressed air and vacuum system and plenty of enclosed storage. Going to be nice. Gp

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OU812 posted this 04 April 2016

The .220 diameter bore ride section has a good snug slip fit in muzzle end of barrel (six rifle land marks on bullet).

When loaded round is chambered there is only one rifle land engraved on bore ride section. This tells me I have to size larger .221 - .222. The factory throat of Remington is getting larger...not good.

A new custom barrel with tighter throat will really help make these bullets shoot best.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 04 April 2016

ou812.....a match quality barrel is a statistically good move ... but

a precision setback, rechamber and rethroat of a * lucky * factory barrel can do wonders ...

ken

oh, if a rem 700, and you can get a good throat by setback is 1 or 2 threads, you don't really have to do the hassle of new threads ... there are plenty of extra threads there already ....this is if it is your own barrel ...

.

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OU812 posted this 05 April 2016

I shortened the gas check shank so that gas check will be flush with first band. Maybe these shorter versions will stabilize in the 1/12 twist barrel.

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OU812 posted this 05 April 2016

79.3 grain vs. 75 grain with shorter gas check shank.

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gpidaho posted this 05 April 2016

I would like to let the man speak for himself, but anyone interested in big steps forward in HV cast and alternative coatings (Creating a true polymer jacket) would do well by reading “Dragonheart"'s posts of the last couple of weeks at our sponsor “Boolits” Well worth reading in my opinion. Gp

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mtngun posted this 05 April 2016

gpidaho wrote: I would like to let the man speak for himself, but anyone interested in big steps forward in HV cast and alternative coatings (Creating a true polymer jacket) would do well by reading “Dragonheart"'s posts of the last couple of weeks at our sponsor “Boolits” Well worth reading in my opinion. GpSomething worth reading at Boolits?   That would be new.  :D

From one of his posts: I don't have a lot of test targets to post as I record my tests and keep the results in a spreadsheet. I am also hesitant to post load data on an open forum. Basically, I do all my tests from a well secured Ransom Rest confirming the handgun returns to the same position with a dial caliper. I believe that taking the human element out as much as possible is the only way to get a true compairson for a load. I shoot 5 round chronographed groups and repeat only if a group shows promise. I have run tests using guns from a number of manufactures Glock, Sig, Walther, Kimber, Colt, S&W. Typically all my tests are done at 25 yards. Well, as we used to say “it's a free country” so if he enjoys shooting pistols at 25 yards and not posting targets, more power to him.   But I'm not going to waste my time reading that sort of stuff.

I agree with Dragonheart's view that coatings function as a “jacket.”   But how does a jacket function?     He doesn't say.    

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gpidaho posted this 05 April 2016

Leaving personal grudges behind and sorting through the posts I've found very useful information posted on “Boolits” “Does he say” Yup, pushing plain base 8-10 BHN coated bullets to 3100fps. He's consulting with a man that has a PHD in polymer applications and the people at Prysmatic powders in researching the possibilities of this type of application. Gp

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gpidaho posted this 05 April 2016

This goes to handgun ammo and is a well plowed field but I find it interesting that Federal Premium is jumping onboard with the new “Syntech” ammunition. http://gunsandammo.com/shot-show-2016/first=look-american-eagle-syntech-ammo/

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 06 April 2016

re: new and amazing syn-tech bullets ... i shot up a couple boxes of smith y wesson poly-coated 9mm ...back in the late 1980's ..

probably before their time ...

ken

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gpidaho posted this 06 April 2016

I know Ken, I still have a couple of boxes of the “Black Talons” in 45ACP Nothing new under the sun. Gp

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OU812 posted this 07 April 2016

I contacted Eric Ohlen to ask him if he could mill off top of mould to shorten bullet or remove gas check shank. Here is his response.

"On most molds we can get away with it. Are there alignment pins near the top? How about pivot screw lock screws? If there is nothing to interfere then no problem, about $30 with return shipping.

Erik"

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gpidaho posted this 07 April 2016

OUB12: That sounds more than reasonable to me. It would make it much easier for you than cutting down the bullets. You might think about just getting another mould that fits your needs. Never can tell when an eight or nine twist 22 might end up in your collection. Gp

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mtngun posted this 10 April 2016

gpidaho wrote: Yup, pushing plain base 8-10 BHN coated bullets to 3100fps. Got a link, with targets?

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OU812 posted this 12 April 2016

I will try to go target shooting tomorrow. Today I will cast a few bullets using 1-20 alloy, tumble in sand then coat entire bullet using SPG and LBT lube. I am thinking the softer alloy will orbutrate (spelling...I mean swell) better in larger throat and be more accurate. Tite Group powder will be used.

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OU812 posted this 13 April 2016

Today it was too windy to shoot, so I stayed home and internet shopped. I ordered a Shilen short chambered barrel in 223 Remington 1-9 twist chrome moly. Hopefully the bore diameter is .219 or smaller with six grooves.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 13 April 2016

ou812:

0h 0h ...i think i detect another serious project coming up ...

go for it !!

ken

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OU812 posted this 16 April 2016

Today my best groups were shot using the shorter 75 grain bullets (trimmed shank off .035) . I only had a handful loaded, so just a couple of sample groups shown. There was some tilting, but these shot the best. Aimed at Orange #5

 

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OU812 posted this 16 April 2016

4 of my flyers went into the same hole with this group. I will load up more of the 75 grain bullets to test. I was surprised the 75 grain bullets show potential in the 1-12 twist barrel

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OU812 posted this 16 April 2016

Here are the bullets pictured...again.

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