During the testing of the 22-250 the SAVAGE STRIKER pistol has been as accurate as any of the rifle barrels. This may be a fluke, just a lucky barrel, but I find that it's easier to shoot the pistol, steadily, than any rifle. I put a stabilizer on the Striker, a Charger, and a rifle-stock-made-into-a-sorta-pistol-stock.
ABOUT BENCH RESTS
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- Last Post 13 September 2016
This item takes all the wobble out of the bench setup, close to as good as a machine rest.
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The Charger stabilizer is made from 1/2” plastic pipe, T, and end caps. The pipe has filed flats that fit snug in the grip-the grip ia an AR grip, about $6 from Midway if I screw it up. So far it's taken all the wobble out.
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I've only shot the rifle/pistol stock a few times, the stabilizer works perfectly so far.
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I assumed that it was the PISTOL characteristics that, with stabilizers, took the wobble out-but I'm beginning to think it's the stabilizer. If we want to hold the gun steady, we can fiddle around with rests and sand bags as I have for so long. or buy one of those sled things. Or, we could use a stabilizer and bench rest as shown. Now, the POI of the bullet changes as the rifle is moved from aiming point to aiming point. Expensive rests/bags can reduce this. Or, how about this. On the forend of my stocks there's a sling-swivel-attachment-thing that is sorta round on the bottom. If we had a piece of metal, a plate, with a long V in it, and we screwed it to my Hoppes rest-sans sand bag; then the sling swivel sorta round thing would slide in the V. Put a tilt on the Hoppe's rest, and sliding the gun back and forth changes elevation. Rotation about the ling axis is eliminated with the stabilizer. Change in POI is eliminated by getting rid of the front sandbag. No sandbags, no expensive rest, almost a machine rest.
I bought a rifle stock for the barrel that Ken's making-22rf chambered to 22-250- to rout the barrel channel out for the large diameter barrel. The grip has a medallion on the bottom, it comes out and there's a hole that looks like it could have a stabilizer attached. Maybe this weekend. It's looking like wheels-on-luggage all over again. joe b.
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keep up the good work, JoeB u will soon be able to shoot with the unrestricted pistols.
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could you just attach a ” stabilizer/slider plate to the screw hole( s ) for the * roundy sling attachment thing ” ?
screws make good attachers ....( except when used to attach and align barrels ... ) ...
i would also consider using poly/delrin boxed sheet under your sliders ( ...thus ” sliders ” ) ...... should only touch gun by trigger, and it should recoil exactly the same each shot .
need to define goals::
squirrel hunting system :: you, gun, 20 cent ammo, field position ... testing ammo ::: nearly a full cheating rig and rest... testing yourself :: 40 cent ammo and full cheater gun ...
don't feel bad if this is confusing :: at my age i just want things to go bang one more time ... ( g ) ...
ken
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could you just attach a ” stabilizer/slider plate to the screw hole( s ) for the * roundy sling attachment thing ” ?
screws make good attachers ....( except when used to attach and align barrels ... ) ...
I think it's called a “sling swivel stud"; sometimes they have wood screw threads, sometimes machine screw threads. We talked about using the Ruger Charger bipod attachment kit, the set of parts that attaches a short piece of picatinny rail to the forend, using the sling swivel stud. This ~$10 kit provides the piece of rail to which about anything can be attached, including a slider that would eliminate wobble/rotation about the long axis of the gun. That might be a good approach, but for now, another approach.
i would also consider using poly/delrin boxed sheet under your sliders ( ...thus ” sliders ” ) ...... should only touch gun by trigger, and it should recoil exactly the same each shot .
My experience with a “sled” on SS rifles is that I need some friction at the sled/front rest surface, very slick no-friction surfaces let the front skitter around. With the grip stabilizers I use, wood to wood or plastic pipe to wood surfaces, with baby powder, gives me just the right friction; easy to slide but not too easy. Skitterless.
need to define goals::
squirrel hunting system :: you, gun, 20 cent ammo, field position ... testing ammo ::: nearly a full cheating rig and rest... testing yourself :: 40 cent ammo and full cheater gun ...
I've shot only Thunderbolt, Fed Automatch and Norma Tac 22 in the Charger. I will try various ammo while learning the gun and maybe wearing in the trigger. The Charger is the “other” gun that I bring to the range and shoot when I forget the gun/ bolt/ scope/ ammo for the gun/ammo testing planned. And shoot as time permits when I don't forget anything. I'd like to see how the Charger does with “reasonable” not-eley-target-$ ammunition. The instant goal is the get a plate, ?3” X ?6” X ?1/2” with holes to attach to my Hoppes rest, That has a “V” groove cut in the ? 6” length, a ?6” long groove. The sling swivel stud would slide in that groove, allowing the gun to freely rotate, windage, about the stud. With a stabilizer under the grip, a no-sand-bag rest system maybe almost as good as a machine rest, at very low cost.
don't feel bad if this is confusing :: at my age i just want things to go bang one more time ... ( g ) ...
kenI got a start on the stabilizer on the grip of the Savage Rifle stock, it will work but it ain't pretty yet. joe b.
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FORGET ABOUT THE RIFLE STABILIZER AT THE GRIP, IT WON'T WORK. TOE. ANOTHER OF MY MISTAKES. joe b.
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Kind of like going to the moon: a great technological feat, with an immense engineering effort that at the end made many very proud of their labor. To me it sort of takes the “P” out of pistol. I am not downplaying the legacy of the space race of the benefits that we have accrued from its effort (Velcro yes, Tang not so much). However, I am looking at rifles missing some parts and I am not really getting it. The nice thing is I don't have too get it, if Joe likes it that's cool. Joe, BTW, I spent a great summer in Marathon FL many moons ago.
Dave
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i figger for your charger, you are handicapped about a 1/4 inch for the trigger and at least 1/2 inch for your non-bedding .... at 50 yards .
looks like decent potential.
maybe your savage pistol action is stiffer if it doesn't have a mag cutout. i am impressed ... wonder if your 22-250/223 barrel would shoot better on your pistol action ... wish lapua or hodgdon would sponsor us ...
maybe you should write a book ...
( g )
ken
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i figger for your charger, you are handicapped about a 1/4 inch for the trigger and at least 1/2 inch for your non-bedding .... at 50 yards .
looks like decent potential.
maybe your savage pistol action is stiffer if it doesn't have a mag cutout.
i am impressed ... wonder if your 22-250/223 barrel would shoot better on your pistol action ... wish lapua or hodgdon would sponsor us ... maybe you should write a book ...
( g )
ken
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joeb :neither trigger will get much better until you make physical changes .
you can get some improvement by spraying the trigger mechanism with moly lube ... silicone not . black chain oil has moly . of course if you lube triggers they will collect grit .....but that might be a few months . clean and repeat.
both savage and ruger triggers can be lightened ( and made less safe remember ) by a combination of weaker trigger return spring and sear engagement .
don't cut the spring, find lower rate ones ..in case you mess up, you can put the original back in .
sear engagement you can reduce with a diamond file ... but keep the 90 degree angles . make a jig if you try this . in the ruger half the engagement will get you under 3 pounds pull . if you mess up buy another hammer on ebay ... or send your hammer to me i will guess at it ...actually i think i have a spare hammer already if interested . email me.
i haven't done a savage trigger but the principal is the same ... i assume it is complicated by the trigger bar... just clearance that and lube with moly. silicone is not good for anything very long. well maybe corvair fan belts.
ken
edit: oh, moly lube is very dirty ....don't scratch yourself with it on your fingers ... washes off with soap y water tho . most people would rather have a stiff trigger than fight the moly .
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