INTIMATE SECRETS OF THE LYMAN 450 LUBRISIZER

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

INTIMATE SECRETS OF THE LYMAN 450 LUBRISIZER

 

            While the Lyman 450 has worked well for me for many years, there are some little known methods to make the machine work better.

            When changing dies and fiddling with the working area of the 450, the handle has frequently fallen down, sometimes causing me to say bad words as the top punch tries to size my finger or thumb down. To keep the handle from falling down, I developed a technique that I call “Flipping the pusher-upper thing over".

            Flip it over when you start to fiddle with the dies and you'll never have your finger or thumb resized again.

 

 

 

            The handle of the 450 breaks when you try to do some heavy sizing or bumping. This can be avoided, (or fixed after breaking), by brazing good sized washers to the outside of each of these holes in the handle. The other holes don't fail. Clayton Prario brazed my handle many years ago and the 450 has done a lot of hard bumping and sizing since, without a whimper.

 

 

 

The Lyman 450 scheme is that you can seat a gas check, size the bullet and lube that bullet; all with one mighty pull on the handle. Sometimes you can do this, many times not.

Lyman sells gas check seaters as accessories for their lubrisizers. I've never understood why these are needed.

Here's a picture of the hollow screw, plunger and nut.

Screw the hollow screw way up, the nut will come off, until the 450 just seats the gas check on the bullet base so that you can't pull the gas check off with your thumb nail. There'll be only a little movement of the bullet down.

John Bischoff adds: “If you move the nut on the hollow screw from the bottom side of the frame to the top side of the frame, you can then lock the hollow screw in place at a high enough s etting to crimp the gas checks without sizing the bullet. It doesn't seem to affect the operation when sizing long bullets. Lyman just assembled it the easy way instead of the correct way.” I moved the nut to the top of the frame, here's the picture. John is right, again!

 

 

 

 

 

The gas check is now seated.  I seat once, turn the bullet ~90 degrees and pull down again.

Seating gas checks in a separate operation allows you to control the seating in a way that we can't if we try to seat gas check, size and lube in one step.

You want the gas check seated all-the-way, and square. To make sure the gas check is all the way on the bullet, get the gas check on a bullet base nicely and put some force on the handle and make sure that the gas check on this sample is on the bullet all the way.

 

 

The groove above the gas check tells all. If the groove is as narrow as the sample you're sure is right, with the gas check seated all the way, then the checks are seated all-the-way.

And, if that groove is the same width all the way around, the gas check is seated square.

So, that bottom groove tells the story. If all is correct, the gas check is seated properly. Adjustment of that hollow screw, way up, allows seating gas checks very precisely.

 

Now, lubricating the bullet. There are reports that too much lube on the bullet affects accuracy. It is possible to lubricate some or all of the grease grooves on a bullet with the 450.

 

Here's a bullet with only one of the two grease grooves filled with lube. The bottom groove, just above the gas check, is sometimes the only groove filled with lube.

The problem with this is that if you set the hollow screw, plunger, nut so the bullet only goes in far enough to lube the bottom grease groove-or worse, the groove above the gas check; then there's a good chance that you won't size the forward  band. With my 450 and dies, I can fill the bottom grease groove, and the front band, in a .309” sizing die, is at .311” or so. It doesn't size down. If I re-set the hollow screw, plunger, nut to size the first or top band correctly, then all grooves are filled with lube.

So, I have to size and lube in two separate steps.

But wait, there's more.

This bullet is a 314299 that casts .3145” or so on the bands. It has a big .303” nose, and likes to be sized .3095” on the bands.

If you size a hard bullet from .3145” to .3095” in one step, you've got to really tug on the 450 handle. And sometimes the nose bumps up .001” or so, making it harder to get the cartridge into the gun.

If you size a soft bullet from .3145” to .3095” in one pull, the tugging is noticeably easier but the nose may bump up as much as .0025", varying a lot, and making some cartridges quite hard to get into the chamber.

You don't want the cartridges hard to chamber, because sometimes the bullet gets pushed into the case, affecting accuracy.

What to do? First I size the .3145” bullets to .3120". Then I size the .3120” bullets to .3095". This 2-step sizing keeps the noses from bumping up (much), and is a lot easier on my arm and the 450.

For both sizing steps I set the hollow screw, plunger, nut so that the bullets go way down and are sized on all the bands.

Then I re-set the hollow screw, plunger, nut to lubricate the bottom grease groove.

So, my process is to

Seat the gas checks

Size to .3120"

Size to .3095"

Lube

 

I oil the ram and all rubbing joints on the 450, (and all machines, including guns), with Marvel Mystery Oil. Oiling makes machines work easier and smoother and wear less.

 

Some claim that holding the top punch in the ram with a dab of bullet lube allows the top punch to center itself and not contribute to “off-center sizing” I don't know about the off center business, but I do know that putting a dab of bullet lube on the top punch holds it in the ram, and I don't have to search for the elusive allen wrench..

 

            There's some thought that nose-first sizing is “better". The Lyman 450 can be used for nose-first sizing by flipping the pusher-upper thing over, removing the ejector pin from the sizing die, and using a specially-made nose punch that pushes the bullet through the die point down and out the bottom of the die. Lubing CAN be done as the sizing goes on, but it's tricky.

 

            The force required on the handle varies as the hardness of the bullet. It would seem simple to hang a spring scale on the handle and record the force required to size a given bullet with different alloys. We could then call the 450 the “BHN tester". A clever person could find a way to finagle a torque wrench onto the machine and have a more precise hardness measure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

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CB posted this 30 October 2007

Last picture. Looking for comments, additions, any necessary additions. Book construction goes on.

joe b.

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1Shirt posted this 14 November 2007

The only time I bump anything is if I want a flat nose on a pointed blt for use in a lever action.  Yoour info is very good and very interesting.  However, I have gone to using a nose first push thru Lee die for all my gas check seating to dia that I want, and then using the Lyman for lube only.  I realize it is an extra step, but one that I don't mind.  Thanks for the thread!

1Shirt!:coffee

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fa38 posted this 14 November 2007

     I have had trouble starting the nut that locks the sizing die into the sizer due to the lube on the threads upon occasion.  This happens when I have either lost the darn wrench or can't find it because of all the clutter on the bench.      The cure here is to drop in the sizing die, set the nut on top of the threads, bring the ram down onto the nut with a bit of pressure and turn the parts of the nut that stick out beyond the ram with a plyers.  Crude but effective./images/emoticons/134.gif

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CB posted this 15 November 2007

fa38 wrote:      I have had trouble starting the nut that locks the sizing die into the sizer due to the lube on the threads upon occasion.  This happens when I have either lost the darn wrench or can't find it because of all the clutter on the bench.      The cure here is to drop in the sizing die, set the nut on top of the threads, bring the ram down onto the nut with a bit of pressure and turn the parts of the nut that stick out beyond the ram with a plyers.  Crude but effective./images/emoticons/134.gif

I can't do that, it gives me the fantods to think about cross threading that stupid fine thread. I wipe off the die, the nut and the inside of the hole-too much lube makes the nut hard to start. Then I push the die in with the ram and fiddle with the nut.   The Lyman lubrisizers are kluges, designed by the people who went on to design? the Ruger SS rifle. The Kluge boys.

joe b. 

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CB posted this 15 November 2007

Just a note: Lyman offers an upgrade kit for the 450 that replaces the handle, ram, linkage and bolts with improved stronger parts. The upgrade is very simple to do and is realtively inexpensive and is around $20. It replaces the handle with one that is much stronger and doesn't require the brazing Joe has illustrated above. Also the die retaining nut and wrench can be purchased and are also affordable enough to keep spares on hand. You can also request an instruction guide for relaoding and bullet casting products for detailed parts diagrams when you order the upgrades. I have found them to be pretty pleasant to deal with and very knowledgeable with their products when I have called to order parts. You can contact Lyman via phone at 1-800-225-9626 or by visiting them on the web at http://www.lymanproducts.com

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fa38 posted this 15 November 2007

I can't do that, it gives me the fantods to think about cross threading that stupid fine thread. I wipe off the die, the nut and the inside of the hole-too much lube makes the nut hard to start. Then I push the die in with the ram and fiddle with the nut.

Joe b Unless the ram bottom is angled it should and will give the threads a very good shot at meshing correctly.  At least it works on 3 different models of Lymans and an RCBS and an Ohaus.

Hey and whats with the dig at Mr. Bill's single shot?  Did one not treat you right sometime in the past?

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454PB posted this 16 November 2007

I've done the upgrade that Jeff mentioned on one of my 450's, it's well worth the effort.

To change dies, I place the retaining nut on the die first, then install the whole assembly into the sizer. Doing this aligns the retaining nut with the female threads.

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CB posted this 02 December 2007

454PB wrote: To change dies, I place the retaining nut on the die first, then install the whole assembly into the sizer. Doing this aligns the retaining nut with the female threads.

I've written this thing again and put it in ERRATA.

I've changed dies using this hint maybe 20 times, and I'm here to tell you that this is the best hint/suggestion that I can recall since my invention of wheels on luggage.

Changing dies this way keeps me from cross threading that nut, and just takes the aggravation out of the process.

Thank you, 454.

joe b.

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454PB posted this 02 December 2007

I'm glad it helped you Joe.

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delmarskid1 posted this 02 December 2007

 I seat gas checks on my 450 by putting a vise grip on the pin thingy that goes though the hollow other thing so that it doesn't move. Real quick fix and it works.

  I aply case sizing lube to my bullets using a coffee can containing bits of towel soaked in same. In my case Wynn's motor honey. I just shake the works around and they go through the sizing die with a lot less effort.  This is how I size cases as well.

 I broke the handle off my 450 making 44's out of bevel base 45's. I had a lot more energy than molds in those days. I fixed it with washers and wire-feed welding. Those 44's shot like Billybedammned but who wants to go through that again. 

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billwnr posted this 03 December 2007

delmar, I like your tip of using vise grips to lock the shaft up so you can seat gaschecks.

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delmarskid1 posted this 03 December 2007

I have pushed leadshot into the sizing die lube holes at strategic places to steer lube where I wanted it. This works dandy if you feel like it's worth the time. The hard part is picking the little things out to do a differant bullet. I used this trick mainly for doing up large bunches of plain base pistol bullets. I'm sure I gave it up for a good reason.  

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Frontsite posted this 19 July 2009

Shucks guys, all good info. Here's how I just seat gas checks only, rather than change all the adjustments to the stop nut on the bullet seating stop rod. Be sure the adjustment nut is located below the casting first. Then use some your range brass. I used a .270, cut at 1.25 inches from the mouth of the case. Discard the thicker head of the case as you won't be using that portion. Using your Dremel tool carefully cut away about a 1/3rd vertical slice from the part of the case that has the neck and shoulder.

Use a file to deburr and fine tune for length between the frame and the top of the rod and just snap it in place. To seat gas checks just give the handle a firm pull until you feel the resistance of gas check seater. I seat gas checks squarely before I size thus avoiding some of the tipped gas checks. Seat gas checks to your hearts content then pull the “gas check seater “ and start the lube/size process without having to readjust everything.

Don't try to size without pulling the “seater” as the brass casing will crush and spring out into the never land of the reloading room. (I have lost two of'm somewhere in there.)

The first two I made were from a .223 case but it was difficult to get on and off the rod. The .270 case works a little better and is not as difficult to place on and remove.

It is much cheaper than the Lyman part and to my way of thinking does every bit a good a job as the Lyman Gas Check seater. Just not as heavy duty.:lovecast:

(Midway Product #: 335653)( Lyman Manufacturer #: 2745881) (Cabelas - Lyman Gas Check Seater Item:9IS-210661)

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JetMech posted this 19 July 2009

Joe Brennan wrote: Lyman sells gas check seaters as accessories for their lubrisizers. I've never understood why these are needed.

Seating gas checks in a separate operation allows you to control the seating in a way that we can't if we try to seat gas check, size and lube in one step.

Sometimes, you answer your own questions, Joe. This accessory doesn't require you to change the adjustment of the “pusher-upper thing". Using the gas check seater, I've never had one fail to seat properly.

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hunterspistol posted this 19 July 2009

  I think Jeff said it first, the pusher-upper thing is the actuating linkage.  The only difference I can see is that the late model sizer has the handle hinged straight into the ram.  This is going to be another good look into Joe's experience, interesting in there too!

      Here's a way to place those sticky dies and not cross-thread the fine thread retaining nut: Use lighter oil, a penetrating oil to clean the lube off. Rem Oil spray, Kano Kroil, or Marvel Mystery Oil, WD-40, etc.  Just pour it on and wipe down with a rag or cloth.  It dissolves a great deal of lube and will clean threads as well.  I use Rem Oil spray or Kano Kroil indiscriminately on dies, threads, everything.  I use the spray oil over the trash can and have a rag and Q-tips gathered up ahead of time.  The same light oil that you patch with immediately before you shoot can serve a double purpose.

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