Help a fellow out, please.

  • 3K Views
  • Last Post 16 December 2007
clee1 posted this 18 November 2007

Just back into reloading/casting after a 2+ decade break.

I am loading for both .38 SPL +P and 9mm Parabellum; for plinking - carry ammo is all corbon

I know simple WW alloy with a little added tin is fine for the .38 wheelgun, but what is suitable for the 9mm?

Can I get by with quenching the ww casts, or do I need to heat-treat - or go to a harder alloy?

The resources I have disagree widely about the necessary hardness/strength for the 35,000 to 38,000 PSI 9mm loads.

Can someone answer this for me?

Thanks!

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
LWesthoff posted this 18 November 2007

I don't own a 9mm, but I've run some pretty hot stuff through my 10mm Delta Elite, and all I ever put through any of my handguns is wheelweight. If the stuff is not casting the way I want it to I'll add a little tin - for castability, not hardness. I've never experienced leading problems. I do use NRA formula lube - always. Hope this helps.

Wes

Attached Files

454PB posted this 19 November 2007

I own five 9mm's, and use WW alloy in all of them with good accuracy and no leading. Many casters use a too small bullet in 9mm. Slug your barrel and size at least .001” over bore diameter.

Attached Files

clee1 posted this 19 November 2007

Thanks!

I will slug the bore, and I suspected that WW would do.

Thanks again.

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 19 November 2007

I would cast WW so that the bullets are uniformly frosted, and then quench directly from the mould and lube all over with Lee Liquid Alox. Best results will be with an unsized, as-cast bullet diameter of .3565-.3570, using a somewhat heavier bullet than you would if jacketed, and the lighest charge which will cycle reliably. I used the H&G #7BB with 3.5 grs. of Bullseye.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

clee1 posted this 19 November 2007

So.... hot cast then quench for 9mm.

I was planning to use a .357 (depending on the results of a bore slugging) at 125gr weight with the most pressure/velocity I could get w/o excessive trouble or leading.

I carry 125gr Corbon +P's ; so I wanted my “practice” rounds to be as close as I could get homemade.

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 19 November 2007

If you want to approximate the recoil of full service loads with a cast bullet, use a heavier 135-147-gr. one, such as the NEI #120, #121, or #122 at subsonic velocity. Accuracy will still be good.

While you can load a heat treated 125 cast to full service velocity, you will probably get bore leading and poor accuracy in standard ten-inch twist barrels. OK for full-auto buzz guns, though, except not for fluted chambers or polygon barrels!

You need to pay careful attention to bullet diameter and lubrication. If you try to size a heat-treated bullet it will soften again from recrystallization caused by the cold working. What kind of pistol are you shooting this in?

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

clee1 posted this 19 November 2007

I really appreciate the good advice.

I carry a CZ75 Compact, which is a “midsize". 2.1 lbs with a 3.9” barrel at 1:9.7” twist. The 125gr Corbon +P's are stout in it, but not at all uncomfortable. They are very accurate in my pistol; better than I can hold usually. 1.25” groups at 7 yards in a rest.

OK.... a 147gr cast in my load data goes about 905 fps at 32,500 PSI.

Like I said, I'd really like to avoid heat-treating or hard alloys if I can; just tring to replicate the feel of carry ammo. Accurate would be nice, but somewhere center-mass is all I'm after.

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 19 November 2007

Limiting factor is chamber pressure, not velocity. At 32,500 psi you will need an alloy harder than wheelweights. You will either need to use a harder, more expensive alloy such as 92-6-2 or linotype, or quench-cast the wheelweights. I recommend the latter. As-cast wheelweights start going south above about 24,000 psi.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

clee1 posted this 19 November 2007

OK.... quenching I don't mind. I just didn't want to have to “rebake” after casting if I didn't have to.

Thanks again.

Attached Files

dav2567 posted this 15 December 2007

i have a question concerning quenching of w.w how is this done i have never heard of it till now i have a 9mm sub gun i have been shooting cast bulets in and do get barrel leading i would like to know if quenching may cure this the problem i have found is that pistol loads just wont move the bolt so i have to go maximum and then i get leading any help is greatly appreciated

Attached Files

clee1 posted this 16 December 2007

Simple... drop your fresh casts from the mold into a bucket of cold water. This will nearly double the hardness of the bullet. Of course, you will need to wait a few days for full hardness to set in.

Attached Files

454PB posted this 16 December 2007

And if you plan to size them, do it immediately after quenching. If you wait until the hardening process is progressing, sizing will resoften the bullets.

Attached Files

Close