Broken sprue handles?

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Last Post 27 January 2008

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zap posted this 14 January 2008

Ok....so about 1200 in I broke the first sprue handle. Is that a common thing, or did I get into something that hardened a little too quickly? (and yes...I ordered 2 from Lee B))

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CB posted this 14 January 2008

Hey Zap; The two Lee I have, seem good after many thousands of cycles. I would be interested in knowing why it failed. You are talking 200 cycles? Test the hardness of your alloy, it might be a bit hard. Wouldn't be one to knock a top manufacturer but I have replaced a number of unbreakable decapping pins. Maybe a little too buff? Please let us know what happens. Roy

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zap posted this 14 January 2008

Yes, about 200 cycles of a 6 banger. The stuff I was casting is a might hard. I thought I might have let it sit a little long, but even then I think the cast iron sprue handle would be stronger than the sprues themselves. I was mostly wondering if this is something that is common or if my technique was lacking.

I was just pulling the sprue open without difficulty until I hit this one. I didn't ask for a replacement under the warranty because of that fact.

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CB posted this 15 January 2008

Hey Zap; You made me go look over my Lee moulds. Mine are 20 yrs or so old, there are no parts except the screws that are steel. Aluminum is what they are made of. What part and where did yours break? Of the Lee blocks I know, there have been no such failures. Just in case of a chance there was a flaw in the materials, maybe you should notify Lee. They do investigate product failures and attempt to remedy flaws. It does suck when you get into the groove and something interupts the production. I fired my pot up to cast out some Lee 9mm and chase your issue. I'll keep you posted. Roy

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Adirondack Jack posted this 15 January 2008

I broke one early on. Since then I have had no problems BECAUSE I follow the drill when warming the mold. Fill one cavity, cut and drop, fill two, , next three, etc. If you get ahead of the curve and the sprues fight, STOP!!!. At that point I use a propane torch to heat the sprue plate, putting the flame on the sprues, until the sprues melt, open the mold, wipe the sprue plate down with a wet towel, and start over. No issues in tens of thousands of bullets, and I've had to do the propane torch bit twice.

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zap posted this 15 January 2008

This is definately a cast iron piece. Here is a pic

I am certain the mold was plenty hot. In fact, this is the reason I'd left it sit for a moment or two before cutting the sprue when this thing broke.

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Adirondack Jack posted this 15 January 2008

Ya gotta cut em as soon as they change color indicating they have solidified. If they don't cut like warm butter, the handle is under too much tension when it tries to “cam” on that little flat spot (which actually is the point where they cut), and the handle breaks. I got a cutter handle exactly like yours in my junk box. cast iron is not forgiving excess pressure.

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CB posted this 15 January 2008

Hummm.. I have a couple of 6 cavity Lee Moulds that I haven't used yet. I wonder if maybe this could be remade out of stronger material..

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zap posted this 15 January 2008

Hummm.. I have a couple of 6 cavity Lee Moulds that I haven't used yet. I wonder if maybe this could be remade out of stronger material.. I was actually wondering the very same thing. Perhaps, less brittle out of plain steel, and a little thicker in the cam also.

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Mauserman posted this 20 January 2008

Years back I had a set of lyman do the same thing... I brazed it and still using it today.. I have no idea why it happen other than maybe a bad casting....... I wrote it off as just one of those things that if something can go wrong it will.:shock: MM