223 Rem

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Gene posted this 21 March 2008

I just bought a Remington 700 SPSV in 223.

Now I need a bullet/load suggestion.

 

Thanks,

Gene Perryman:D

 

 

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CB posted this 22 March 2008

Try 6 grains of 2400 behind Lyman 225415. Either shoot the bullet unsized or if you size, not to less than .225". I think you will have better luck if you use a gas check at first. Plain base efforts can come after you see how it goes.

Similar charges of 5759 or perhaps Hodgdon's LilGun or 5744 or #9AA would be worth a try.

Seat the bullet out as far as it will chamber - or work through the magazine if you need that option.

Try wheelweights and linotype and see which works better.

Any reasonable lube should work. You may want to lube only the back groove or even just the gap ahead of the gas check.

Good Luck,

John

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Gene posted this 22 March 2008

John,

Thanks for the info.

I have discovered that I have a bur in my chamber, it's scratching my cases.  Is there any way I can remove the burr my self.  I don't want to send it back to Remington, as it would probably be several weeks before I got it back.  It also seems to have a very tight chamber, as some bullets that I had loaded for my AR15 wouldn't chamber in the 700.

Thanks,

Gene Peryman

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PETE posted this 22 March 2008

 Gene,

  Noty being familiar with the Twist rate of your gun I'll give you what I've got for my Savage with a 1-9” twist rate.

  First tho I think any decent local gunsmith with a chambering reamer should be able to cure that burr in your chamber.

  The first thing I did was to run the throat out on my gun so I could seat an 80 gr. bullet with just the gas check in the case. This is going to be used for CBA Postal competition, so might not be applicable for what you want to do.

  If all you want to do is shoot cast for the “fun” of it without altering your gun then John's advice would be the one to follow.

  The bullet I use is an LBT 225-85-SP cast of 50/50 Lino/WW. Weighs 80 grs. when thus cast. I use 11.4 grs. of IMR 4227. This gives a MV of 1870 fps. SD - 5.6 & ES = 11.5. 5 shot groups at 100 yds. will have groups running from  5/8” to 1 1/8".

PETE

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CB posted this 22 March 2008

Gene,

Pete is right, a gunsmith with a 223 chambering reamer should be able to get rid of the burr.

However, if it were my rifle and the burr wasn't too big and not on the shoulder or neck of the chamber, and the gunsmith was miles away as the nearest one is from here, I would see if I couldn't remove it myself.

I would drill out the base of a full length resized case and epoxy a piece of quarter inch diameter steel rod long enough so enough would stick out the back of the action when the case was in the chamber to allow it to be chucked in a drill (preferable a hand drill). Of course, the case and rod have to be straight.

Next embed some 300 or 350 grit abrasive in the body of the case by rolling it between two smooth steel surfaces. Wipe off abrasive from the shoulder and neck. You are not going to increase headspace enough to matter but no use polishing the shoulder and the neck is almost certainly bigger than needed. If the case with abrasive can be inserted almost all the way into the chamber give it a dozen or two turns while pushing it gently into the chamber, Wipe out the chamber of all grit and see if chambered case is still scratched.

If you can't almost chamber the case with the grit you may want to try a finer grit. This may not work if the burr is too gross. If it is I would send it back to Remington.

You may indeed have a tight chamber if fired cases from the AR 15 won't chamber. On the other hand the AR15 may have a loose chamber. If full length sized cases won't chamber, the the sizing die is out of spec or your chamber is.

Hope this helps.

John

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PETE posted this 22 March 2008

 John, or anyone,

  You bring up an interesting point. Do semi-auto's have looser chanmbers than bolt guns? I've never had a chance to check the idea out but was always under the impression they were. When I was shooting Hi-Power the old timers told me you always had to FL size your brass. Of course most of them were shooting Garands then so maybe this might not apply to the AR's or the more moderm semi-auto's.

PETE

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Gene posted this 29 March 2008

Alexander and Pete:

I bought my rifle from Dick's Sporting Goods and I called them and explained the problems, they then exchanged the rifle for a new one.

Like the original rifle it has a very tight chamber (a local gunsmith checked the chamber-it's OK)

The rifle has a 1 in 12 twist and from my barrel break-in session yesterday, it appears to be accurate.

My question is, are you turning the case necks down 1/1000 to facilitate seating the lead bullets and are you using a separate belling die for this such as the Lee Universal  Case Expanding Die?  I know before I try, my gun will never chamber a .225 bullet.

Even full length resizing my other  brass that was shot in my AR15, it will NOT chamber the the cases.  It will chamber cases fired in it, so I'm just going to neck resize.

Has anyone tried the Lee Collet Dies?

Thanks for you help  and advice.

Gene Perryman

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CB posted this 29 March 2008

Gene,

There are so many people making AR15 that I don't know if it's true for all, but yours probably has the military spec chamber which is larger than the SAAMI Remington 223 chamber so I would guess that's the root of the incompatibility with brass. However, that doesn't explain why your full length sizing isn't enough to chamber the sized brass in the 700. You might try another FL sizing die if you can borrow one from a friend.

I wouldn't neck turn the brass unless you have to. I would be very surprised if you can't chamber a round with a 225 bullet if the empty case will chamber before loading. Most manufacturers are very conservative about making the neck diameter of chambers oversized for safety reasons.

After firing a full charge load see if you 225 bullet will slip into the neck of the fired case. If it won't you have a very unusual rifle and one that might be dangerous. If a 224 bullet won't slip into the neck without applying force you should send the rifle back to Remington. But I suspect you will be able to slip 226 or even 227 bullets into the neck of the fired case.

A fair number of cast bullet shooters use the Lee Collet dies because you can adjust the neck tension to whatever is needed for the diameter of bullet you are shooting, and because the brass will last essentially forever. There have been several articles, including two I have written, in past Fouling Shots on the Collet Die.

John

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PETE posted this 29 March 2008

 Gene,

  John's pretty well answered your questions so I'll jusy say that, yes, I do bell the mouth of my cases, plus put a decent chamfer on the mouth. I do this with a Lyman “M” die that I make my own expanders that also bell the mouth. When loading the case the seating die is set to close that bell enuf so the case will just chamber. This helps to self-center the case in those factory chamber.

  You might also find that you will have to crimp the bullets in. Even if the bullet is set tight into the rifling. This has to do with the lack of bullet wgt. and the need to have enuf resistance to the pressure being built up at ignition. I find this is needed more in the sub .30 cal.'s than the ones over .30.

PETE

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Gene posted this 03 April 2008

Pete and John,

Yipee,,,,, I finally got my rifle to chamber my rounds that I loaded sveral years ago for my AR15.  They shot pretty good considering that my rifle is still in the break-in period and I'm using an adhoc rest.  The butt is not supported and my scope is bouncing around on the target like a cat on a hot tin roof!!!!

My questions are, is the MTM rifle rest a good buy and which Lee melter would you recommend?

 

Thanks,

Gene Perryman

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PETE posted this 03 April 2008

 Gene,

  I'll have to pass on both as I don't have any experience with either. Maybe John, or someone else, can help you out.

PETE

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CB posted this 03 April 2008

The MTM rest is made for hunting rifles and would be great for that. If you want to compete in bench rest matches, I'd make a choice for a better rest.

The Lee pots are a great value for the money. I have both a 10 pound and 20 pound bottom pour 110 volt pots. I like the 20 pound pot. When I cast, I cast the two-mould method and that takes a lot of lead. While one mould solidifies, I'm emptying the other and pouring again. The timing between using the two equals to a constant temp, not too hot and not too cold. Of course your 223 CBs won't use up too much lead  ;)  ...................Dan

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CB posted this 06 April 2008

Like Dan, I have both a ten pound and a twenty pound Lee pot and like both of them. They are both better than the more expensive pot I had of another brand. I usually use the ten pounder since I mostly cast 22 bullets.

John

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Gene posted this 08 April 2008

John,

Which type of melter do you recommend, the regular or the bottom pour?

Thanks,

Gene Perryman

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CB posted this 08 April 2008

I prefer to ladle my bullets, I get a better quality bullet. Can't seem to get the bottom pour thing right and end up with a ton of rejects.

I do like the Lee pots as well, they give the desired results for 1/4 of the price of a Lyman or RCBS.

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Gene posted this 08 April 2008

Jeff and John,

I want to get started ASAP.  I'm going to use the two mould method, so I'm going to get a 224 and a 429 mould. Cast for my Remington 700 and my Marlin 1894 at the same time.

I'm going to go with a mould that casts at least a .225 bullet for my Remington 700 223 Rem.  Now the groove diameter on the Marlin is .431, so I need an .432 bullet, will the available moulds from Lee, Lyman, and RCBS cast a .432 bullet???   The Lyman Casting book says with #2 it casts a .225  bullet for the 223 and it only casts a  .431 bullet for the 44

 

Please advise.

 

Thanks,

Gene Perryman

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Paul Pollard posted this 08 April 2008

I just got my 225 60 SP last month from LBT and shot it in the March match. He will cut the mold to cast larger than your spec. I spec'd mine at 225 min and it cast .2265 from cavity #1 (outboard), weighed 55.8. Inboard cavity is .2258 and weighs 55.5 grains. They are .660 long as cast; with gas check and tapered in a 45 minute per side die, they finish at .681 long.

Just for good measure, I also ordered a 225 55 SP and received it in under 2 weeks. Just cast some of these up and they measure 50.2 from the same alloy (about 75% lead) and these 2 cavities are almost identical at .2258 and 2260. The weights are very close on this mold. Length is .625 as cast and finish at .638” long when tapered the same way.

These also fall out of the mold without beating it to death. (no hammering at all).

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linoww posted this 08 April 2008

Sounds like Veral did as good a  job on yours as he did mine.How do you like your tapered .22  bullets ?.I have found them pretty foregiving on factory throats.I have an Eagan taper die for 22's i use soemtimes,but my LBT tapered bullet does pretty well as it.(Its actually stepped,not tapered).My plain-jane Stevens 200 sporter 22-250 will shoot alot of 1"-1-1/4” groups with the LBT 60 SP I had Veral made.I  just got a SAECO 60SP and the GC shank is way too short,have to send it back.The dimensions seem fair though.Have you shot the SAECO design much??

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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linoww posted this 08 April 2008

The rifle has a 1 in 12 twist “

I shoot a .720” long  bullet it 1-12 Savage 22-250 and they stabalize fine @ 1900-2200fps.Your rifle should work well for heavier/longer bullets assuming the throating will handle the design you choose.Or you have a die to alter them to your throating.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Paul Pollard posted this 08 April 2008

Geo,

Mine are straight bullets from the mold; I taper them in a die which was the same throater reamer which I used on the throat in the rifle. The 14 twist seems to stabilize the 225-60 bullet at 2700. It might not be stable at much lower speed. I'll do some testing to find the lowest speed possible with it. The 55 should be stable down to 1800 and maybe a little slower.

The really good feature is the gas check shank which is small enough that I just set the gas check in the bottom die of the lubesizer, set the bullet on it and pull the handle to seat the gas check in a .226 sizer die. Then it's over to the press-mounted .225 push thru die with no lube at all. Next, it's back to the lubesizer for lube, then to the bump die for tapering and maybe a slight bump if needed to flatten the base. Usually it's just a slight pressure with no shortening of the bullet. Lately, I've been filling the lube groove. Oh, these are one-lube-groove bullets.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 10 April 2008

Hi Paul, following your career shooting .22 etc with much interest.  Between not finding ( free or cheap ) lead nowadays, and my shooter buddy and I welding up a bullet trap on wheels ( g) I am thinking about switching to the little guys, probably .243 to cut the cost of good alloy, which I prefer to buy ready to cast.  such as Magma alloy.       Anyway, I noticed this thread you mentioned your alloy for your .22 mold is 75% lead ... more info please, did you mean 1 wheelweights, 3 scrap lead ... or .... if Veral made your mold for 92-6-2 and you are running it a lot harder even ... that could explain the .2265 dia you are getting.         Keep us informed ... since the last nats maybe there is hope for small bores .. ( and Rugers !!!! ) ...

regards, ken campbell, iowa

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Gene posted this 10 April 2008

Pete and John,

Yipee, again.......Just test loaded my first Lyman 225415 in my Remington 700   223 .  The bullet was sized  .225.  It's going to fit the chamber OK. I think!!!!

The Lyman Cast Handbook recommends a OAL of 2.060 for the 225415.  That will put the base of the bullet below the cas neck.  I thought this was a  NO  NO  with  CB's.

Also, the old Lyman Reloading manual gives an accuracy load of 5.5 Unique, but the new one says sarting load of 6.8.

Please advise.....

 

Thanks,

Gene Perryman

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PETE posted this 10 April 2008

 Gene,

  There is some controversy about seating the bullet below the case neck/shoulder junction. Some say it doesn't matter and others say. like you've heard, it's a no-no.

  With no real experience along the deep seating idea I tend to agree that seating the bullet into the neck/shoulder area below the GC is not good. For my Savage .223 I'm using an LBT 225 85 SP. This of course would put the bullet well below the neck. Since I'm using it in CBA Small Bore Competition I've had the throat run out so the bullet is just held in the case by the GC.

  If seating the bullet below the neck bothers you any decent gunsmith can run your throat out to fit any bullet length you want. At the same time you might have him put in a more gentle throat angle. Standard factory throats are cut for jacketed bullets and sure don't help cast bullet accuracy in most cases.

  As for descrepancies in the loading manuals...... your guess is as good as mine. In most cases I don't get their relation of best load to good accuracy. Most loads, with any given powder, I find work best at lower MV's than they say. Magnumitis is alive and well in the Lyman labs! :) Probably your best bet would be to start with the lower load and work up.

PETE

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Paul Pollard posted this 10 April 2008

Ken,

The alloy I use is a blend of monotype and linotype. Both of these have the tin-to-antimony content of roughly 1 to 3. By using weight calculation charts for my moulds, I can pretty nearly calculate the lead percentage. So linotype at 84% lead and monotype at 72% lead, and mine at 75% lead. Tin and antimony are the last 25% of the mix and to have tin at 1/3 of the 25% means that tin/antimony is about 6-18 or 24%. Close enough for me. Total mix: 75-6.5-18.5. Maybe easier would be 76-6-18 and it comes out even.

This only follows what Bill Ferguson told me several years ago about the 1/3 mix of tin and antimony. Your Magnum alloy of 92-2-6 follows the same formula: 2/6=1/3.

For each mould, I usually cast some w-w samples, linotype samples and monotype samples. By using some math, I can come close to calculating content of a mix somewhere in between. Depending on the load, I can adjust the pot of metal for what I want to see according to the chart.

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Gene posted this 14 April 2008

Pete,

This morning I shot ten rounds at 50 yds  of my first 223 CB's the Lyman 225415.  Five were sized .224 and five were .225.  I shot the .225's first and then the .224's.  They were loaded behind   5.5  grns Unique.  There didn't appear to be any leading at all.  I didn't shoot at 100 yds, because to tell the truth I was alot skeptical that these little bitty bullets would even hit the target.  Boy was I pleased when the last group started dancing around the  X.

The .224's seemed to shoot better than the .225's, but the more I shot the rifle the better the groups got.  I believe my rifle shoots better dirty than clean.

 

Gene Perryman

 

 

 

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PETE posted this 14 April 2008

 Gene,

  If .224” sized bullets work for you then keep it up. Guns are like women.... if you know what I mean. :)

  Also don't worry about that 225415 bullet shooting at 100 yds. Can you say 200 yds.? I haven't shot that particular bullet at that range but have shot many .22 LR 40 gr. bullets that far in competition and once you get the hang of them you'll be surprised at their accuracy. Many of the BP Shilouette shooters say the trajectory and wind deflection at 200 yds. with the .22 RF are about equal to the .45/70 at 500 meters and practice with them at that range.

  As I mentioned I use a lot longer and heavier bullet in my .223 but I have shot many 1000 225415 bullets in a variety of Hornet rifles. I was not overly impressed with the accuracy at 100 yds., but a LOT of work finally gave me an average of 1 1/8” - 1 1/4".

PETE

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linoww posted this 15 April 2008

PETE wrote:    many 1000 225415 bullets in a variety of Hornet rifles. I was not overly impressed with the accuracy at 100 yds., but a LOT of work finally gave me an average of 1 1/8” - 1 1/4".

PETE

I have shot many myself,and results are similar.But I couldnt get averages much under 1-5/8” over a long haul in my 222's,Hornets or 22-250's.It did shoot very well at 200 in a 22-250 somtimes shooting into 3-4” for 5 in relativly calm weather.I killed a few chucks with it last year up to about 100,but the RCBS 55 FN always shoots a bit better for me.Its(225415) sort of a “classic” bullet,but never the best shooting from my experiance either.reminds me of the 225438 as far as accuracy goes.Although a friends Hornet shoots the 225438 near MOA,so go figure!!I'll take a tapered(either with a die or from the mold design).22 bullet over all others most of the time.

What 200yd 22Rf matches were you shooting in??They havnt shot smallbore prone at that distance much since the 1950's.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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linoww posted this 15 April 2008

 but the more I shot the rifle the better the groups got.  I believe my rifle shoots better dirty than clean.

My Savage 22-250 does the same darn thing when I first fire it.I think its a matter of softening the lube up.I dont know?Some lubes seem to be worse than others.I just fire about 5 into the sighter before going to the record targets.I have fired my Stevens 200 22-250 about 1000 rnds at 2100 fps without cleaning and all is still going well.I may never clean it!!!I am going to try a wet patch of Ed's Red before the first group to see if it helps get the first few into the group.I plan on shooting sagerats in two weeks and dont want to have to shoot 5 in the dirt before aiming at one.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Paul Pollard posted this 15 April 2008

How long is the 225415 bullet you guys are shooting. Mine is a Lyman single cavity and is about .550 long and weighs maybe 45 grains in linotype. Is the current one any different?

Paul

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PETE posted this 15 April 2008

 George,

  One thing you might try to see if it improves accuracy is to crimp the bullet in very slightly. What I'm beginning to find out is that under .30 cal. bullets, especially those that weigh 100 grs. or less, need the crimp so that pressure can become more consistent from shot to shot.

  I ran a test quite a few years ago to see just how much the 225415 bullet would be moved just by the force of the primer when seated in the Hornet case. A real eye opener. With no crimp and the bullet seated tight into the rifling some primers would move the bullet as much as 5/8” ahead of the case. All primers moved the bullet to some extent. I then set the crimp enuf so my favorite primer wouldn't move the bullet. With the three different Hornets I had at the time this improved accuracy.

  From that it seems to me that if the primer force moves the bullet forward and then stops until the powder burn brings the pressure up enuf to move the bullet again you need to retard the bullet a little so the bullet only moves till the powder pressure builds up. Heavier bullets don't seem to need a crimp in order to “work” properly.

  I'd like to do a test some day to see at what wgt. you need to start using a crimp. The 120 gr. Ideal 285222 I use in my .28/30 seems to work ok without a crimp as does a 110 gr. NEI bullet I use in my .25/20SS. But I haven't tried crimping these to see if I can't get better accuracy. One of those “some day” tests.

  We have a regular 200 yd. bench match at our bi-monthly Schuetzen Matches. If your familiar with the ASSRA 200 yd. target then you'll have some understanding when I say we have guys that can shoot in the mid 240's out of a possible 250. I'm not that good at it because I'm not the patient type and always figure I'll just hold off a bit instead of waiting for my condition.... which never seems to work.

 Paul,

  My Lyman 225415 mould is probably 40 yrs. old, if not older. It's .621” long and ready to shoot weighs 57 grs. cast from 50/50 Lino/WW.

PETE

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Gene posted this 16 April 2008

George, Paul, Pete,

The bullets I'm shooting were given to me by a friend and they are (the .224 sized)  .563 to .568"  long and weigh ffrom  49 to 50  grains.  The bullets were lubed with LBT.

This is the target I originally wanted to send.  The two at 1:00 oclock, I believe those are my fault .  I'm still using my ad hoc rest. This was at 50 yds

Thanks,

Gene Perryman

 

 

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Gene posted this 16 April 2008

George, Paul, Pete,

I have some RCBS bullets that are unresized and w/no GC at about 12 Br.  I'm going to tumble lube and try them behind  5.5  Unique.   Do I need to bell the case mouth alittle??

I was going to order some GC's yesterday and noticed the price was about 3 to 4 cents @ pc.  If I can't find a bullet that will shoot in my 700 without GC's.  I'm going to a  30 cal.  For me the object of CB's is to save money, not pay the same price as jacketed.  The cost of moulds, meltors,  etc., and my time of casting the bullets  has to be figured into the equation.

Thanks,

Gene Perryman

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CB posted this 16 April 2008

Gene You have to consider into your equation the cost over a long period of time.. Casting is cheaper, however the initial cost of equipment does have to be figured in..

Depending on preference the melter set up can easily be had for under $50.00.

If you have an old turkey or fish fryer that will work. Pick up an old dutch oven at a garage sale for a couple of bucks, that makes a suitable lead pot and you can batch in the same pot!

Keep you eye on forums and Ebay for used moulds.. Check the price you bid against Midway and do a max bid of 80% of new price.. There are people on Ebay that get paid to bid the price up and they have no intent of purchasing. Watch the sales at midway also..

For gas checks look at the cast boolit forum group buys, they have the best prices going!

Casting does not need to cost more than jacketed if you shop and take advantage of deals!

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PETE posted this 16 April 2008

 Gene,

  I'll 2nd what Jeff says. The initial cost is what scares people away but if you figure the cost out over a lifetime it's pretty cheap. Pots will wear out but they usually last me about 10 yrs. Moulds, ladle, and sizer/dies will last a lifetime.     If you want to do without the GC then NEI has a coupla PB moulds available. They also will cut any of their moulds without the GC shank.

  Or, like I did, take an existing GC mould and have the GC shank opened up, or cut off. I had the 110 gr. NEI mentioned in my other post opened up so as to be able to use it for ASSRA competition. Cast in straight Lino I've pushed it up to 1750 fps without any Leading. Wasn't any accuracy tho so backed it off to 1440 fps.

PETE

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linoww posted this 16 April 2008

PETE wrote:  George,

  One thing you might try to see if it improves accuracy is to crimp the bullet in very slightly. What I'm beginning to find out is that under .30 cal. bullets, especially those that weigh 100 grs. or less, need the crimp so that pressure can become more consistent from shot to shot.

  I ran a test quite a few years ago to see just how much the 225415 bullet would be moved just by the force of the primer when seated in the Hornet case. A real eye opener. With no crimp and the bullet seated tight into the rifling some primers would move the bullet as much as 5/8” ahead of the case. All primers moved the bullet to some extent. I then set the crimp enuf so my favorite primer wouldn't move the bullet. With the three different Hornets I had at the time this improved accuracy.

  From that it seems to me that if the primer force moves the bullet forward and then stops until the powder burn brings the pressure up enuf to move the bullet again you need to retard the bullet a little so the bullet only moves till the powder pressure builds up. Heavier bullets don't seem to need a crimp in order to “work” properly.

  I'd like to do a test some day to see at what wgt. you need to start using a crimp. The 120 gr. Ideal 285222 I use in my .28/30 seems to work ok without a crimp as does a 110 gr. NEI bullet I use in my .25/20SS. But I haven't tried crimping these to see if I can't get better accuracy. One of those “some day” tests.

  We have a regular 200 yd. bench match at our bi-monthly Schuetzen Matches. If your familiar with the ASSRA 200 yd. target then you'll have some understanding when I say we have guys that can shoot in the mid 240's out of a possible 250. I'm not that good at it because I'm not the patient type and always figure I'll just hold off a bit instead of waiting for my condition.... which never seems to work.

Your 225415 is about 8 -10 grains heavier than any of the three I own.

I dont cimp,but use very heavy neck tension so I am getting the same “condition” you are doing by crimping.In my Savage 12 22-250 I have shot as small as .200 for 5 @100 and shot a 195-2X in a CBA match in Spokane(100 yd only match) last year.I just seem to have to fire a few more sighters than I want to to get the groups point of impact consistant.As far as 200 with the 22's its rough to say the least!I havent been able to shoot as high velocity as Paul is with any accuracy.Maybe thats why he does well at 200?

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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PETE posted this 16 April 2008

 George,

  I've often wondered why the 225415 mould I've got is so heavy. But back when I first started casting it wasn't all that rare. Quite a bit oversize to due to variation of bore dim.'s and the need to have a bullet cast large enuf to cover most possibilities. More recently an NEI stop ring bullet for the 8.15 was listed at 165 grs. in their catalog but was actually 180 grs. when I cast with mine.

  With a lot of neck tension aren't you worried about deforming, or resizing, the bullet when you seat it? I know..... I know.:) Putting a crimp on can deform the bullet to.

  Of course most of my shooting is done with PB and relatively soft (1-25) bullets so to tight a neck tension can resize the bullet and deform the base. I make my own expander plugs and always test them to be sure they don't harm the base or size. Groove diam. seems to work in most instances.

  Actually what's amazing is that a heeled .22 RF bullet that's crimped in really hard shoots as well as they do. This has made me a believer in a crimp having less of an effect on the bullet than a resize due to heavy neck tension. And..... I only put on enuf crimp to prevent the bullet from jumping just from the primer ignition.

  I don't discount your idea so will have to look into it when using hard GC bullets.

PETE

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linoww posted this 16 April 2008

I don't discount your idea so will have to look into it when using hard GC bullets.

My hard bullets may be why I get away with alot of neck tension.I will try your crimp trick next time out.The only .22 cal PB shooting I do is with a 225438 without a GC rolled in Lee Alox at about 1400.It's good for about 1-1.5” at 50.The mold is a 4 cavity so I am not really  trying for one hole groups,just a quiet load for 'round the cabin.But boy can I cast a mess of bullets fast.I may order an LBT 4 cav similar to my 60g tapered bullet for bulk plinking loads.I just wish he made a flatpoint nose in 22 caliber for a “utility” bullet.

 

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Paul Pollard posted this 16 April 2008

LBT made a 22650 SFN for me when he was Arizona. Ask if it's still available. He made it for my TC Contender in .22 Hornet. It is a short stubby thing which weighed 50 grains in WW. Heat treated and hollow pointed with the Forster tool, it was a good woodchuck round. It used a case full of IMR 4227 at 2480 fps.

Paul

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linoww posted this 16 April 2008

Paul Pollard wrote: LBT made a 22650 SFN for me when he was Arizona. Ask if it's still available. He made it for my TC Contender in .22 Hornet. It is a short stubby thing which weighed 50 grains in WW. Heat treated and hollow pointed with the Forster tool, it was a good woodchuck round. It used a case full of IMR 4227 at 2480 fps.

Paul

I'll bug him about it.I also was planning the Forster HP jig.I had a HP 225415 mold years back.I and hated the thing once i just used the Forster jig. I sold it for a mighty $35.Veral metioned nose splitting with foil,have you ever tried that on game.The rockchucks I shot last year could have used a bit more bullet expansion,although they died fairly fast.I have a lot of Coyotes arround here and my goal is to nab one with a 22 cast bullets this year.I figure the HP or foil trick may be needed for a sure kill.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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j35nut posted this 16 April 2008

Paul Pollard wrote: How long is the 225415 bullet you guys are shooting. Mine is a Lyman single cavity and is about .550 long and weighs maybe 45 grains in linotype. Is the current one any different?

Paul

I have two 415's. one is a  2004  model the other was born in 2006  they both measure .6 in length and weigh 53 grs with ww+2%.   good shooting

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linoww posted this 17 April 2008

My two(I guess i sold the third?) 225415's are .548” to .590 and are no newer than 20 years.

Here is a target shot with my Stevens 200  light sporter 22-250 at 100 yds. You will notice the first two shots low on the sighter then the next shot raised up.This is typical with his gun.The group right is #1.The next (group #2) below the sighter has the first shot follow the last point of impact then dropped down!!The last group (bottom right) was the same point of impact as group #2's last four shots.After the barrel is warmed up like this it will stay put until it cools down again.The load is 13.5 Allient 2400 and the LBT 60 Sp tapered 22 Veral made me.

George

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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CB posted this 24 July 2009

Gene

Thanks for starting this thread I was looking for a .223 Thread to help me with my cast development. Always want to hear what George says.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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