Lee Moulds?

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  • Last Post 10 October 2009
barnabus posted this 02 June 2008

Im new to casting as Im still getting my equitment together.I have a RCBS furnance and a sizer and thats it so far.I have always been loyal to RCBS but gosh they sure are proud of their moulds in comparison with everyone else. I want to offer up my needs and my intentions if you will tell me what would be the best route for me to take.

Here goes..I will be casting for 38/357-44mag-45 acp and 45 LC.I am not one who at the moment who shoots pistols alot but would like to shoot more often but jacketed bullets are ridiculus in price. I do not intend to compete with any of these rounds,just looking to shoot more at a reduced cost while having a decent amount of accuracy. At RCBS prices it would put me over $300 for these 4 moulds and top punches ect. Lee moulds are much cheaper.Here is my question..

Would Lee moulds suffice for what I am going to do and what is the difference in quality? I know they are made of aluminium but is this a disadvantage for someone with my interest?

 

Thanks!

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jhrosier posted this 02 June 2008

Barnabus,

I will probably be drawn and quartered by the guys who like Lee, however, I buy Lee when I have to and Lyman when I can.... I will take a used Lyman at twice the price of a new Lee because I look at it as both a working tool AND a long term investment. The Lyman moulds stand up well to heavy use for a long time while I find the Lee moulds a little “delicate".

Jack :coffee

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CB posted this 02 June 2008

jhrosier is right. You have to be gentle with the Lee molds when you close them. Sometimes one may cast a little out of round, but would be just fine fir pistol plinkin.  Most used steel molds are a bargain, but you may get a lemon there also.  New steel molds are a lifetime investment almost never going bad. Buy one each new, an RCBS and a Lee and see for yourself.  Most often there is pleasure in using a quality mold.............and a joy to use like the old Hensley & Gibbs or the LBTs..............Dan

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Duane Mellenbruch posted this 03 June 2008

I have to agree that Lee molds may not hold up like the iron molds for the hobby caster.  But a person just getting into casting might have a problem with “sticker shock” at the price of new molds.  I checked the Midway Master catalog #31 for some prices for a comparison.  Saeco 2 cav mold 81.99, handles 36.49 ($118.48)  RCBS 2 cav mold 66.99, handles 38.49 ($105.48)  Lee 2 cav mold, handles included ($19.79)

I chose to go with the Lee 6 cav molds 38.49, handles 12.99 (51.48)  My two oldest molds bought in the early 90's are about used up.  I have fed several shooters with these molds, untold pounds of metal have passed between the halves in those years.  The cavities are still just fine, but the mounting screw thread in the blocks are about to strip.  I may just drill, tap and install a thread repair kit instead.  A good mold is a joy to use, but it does not need to be a custom mold either. 

For the person just beginning to enjoy casting as a hobby, and not knowing exactly what bullets they are going to shoot the most, I will suggest that they consider Lee molds.  You do not have to have handles for each mold that you have, but it is handy to have more than one set of handles.  For $20.00 you can buy a double cavity mold, try out that bullet in your guns, and if you like it get the 6 cav mold and enjoy shooting with less time spent casting.  You can always sell the 2 cav mold to a friend.

The Saeco 2 cav mold and handles weigh about 2 pounds, the RCBS 2 cav mold and handles weigh about 1 3/4 pounds, and the Lee 6 cav mold and handles weigh about 1 3/4 pounds.  The light weight of the Lee mold sure is nice when spending the afternoon at the casting bench.  I did not intend to buy molds as an investment.  I bought them to use and enjoy.  Just another point of view from a pistol shooter.  Duane Mellenbruch  Topeka, KS

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DonH posted this 03 June 2008

It is true that Lee moulds are delicate and the dimensions, etc are not always correct but what can one expect for a mould (w/ handles) wheich sells for next to nothing? Lyman, RCBS and Saeco blocks WILL last next to forever but don't expect perfection from them either. At least from Lyman and RCBS as they don't always get dimensions right either. I recently sold an RCBS double cavity .357 mould which I hacn't used for years. A fellow shooter inquired about some of the bullets from that mould which I still have on hand. I miked the bullets and found them to measure .359 x .353 on the base!! Another fellow shooter called Lyman about a 311284 mould which drops a bullet of about .297 nose dia. Basically it was sorry about your luck.

In general I agree with the comments from the other posters; just wanted to say don't count on perfection from at least those two makers either. The best pistol moulds I have cast with were H&G - hands down! Possibly the very best rifle mould I have ever worked is a .45 SC rifle mould by Steve Brooks with which I have been casting for a friend. I have factory moulds from Lee, Lyman, RCBS and NEI and have on hand custom units from at least 4 makers. You get what you pay for. If casting casually and on a limited shooting budget give the Lee stuff a try and replace it when needed. On th other end of things, if one is needs match bullets for rifles, go right on past the factory stuff and get a mould made right from the start.

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giorgio de galleani posted this 03 June 2008

I am an old hand at reloading and casting bullets.and I have begun with a 38sp lee single cavity mould.in1969.

My mould philosophy is this:

I like to experiment and study with cheaper one or two cavity moulds,when  at I have madeup my mind on what bullet design and dimensions I need I get a 4 or six cavity gang mold  I have tried good aluminum(LBT or NEI or Lee) or iron,Saeco or LYMAN.

At the beginning I pan Lubed,now I am using a couple of RCBS Lubrisizers .

The name of the game is just lube,do not size if not forced to.

If you are not a CBA member,shame on you,subscribe and get the manual from Joe Brennan,it is a gold mine of info,even if I do not agree 100% with him,it is the best base you can get on the cast bullet game.

And,last but not least,I am selling a couple of dozen of iron and aluminum moulds at ridiculous prices,, look in the forum,To morrow I'll post a list of aluminum moulds.

Regards,Giorgio.

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454PB posted this 06 June 2008

I'm a Lee mould fan, and I won't repeat what has been already well said. My suggestion is to buy one Lee mould for $20, and another RCBS/Lyman/Saeco and handles for $100 to $140 and do a side by side comparison. For somewhere around $120 to $160 you can answer your own question, share your opinions with us, and sell whichever moulds you dislike. I buy used moulds!.........but I'm betting you keep both moulds.

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CB posted this 07 June 2008

Some Lee molds do have dimension problems, but the are happy to take care of that. Other than that you need to be a bit more careful and I find they work well.

I would advise to get a good sprue plate lube and keep the sprue lubed up, it will help minimize the galling.

The Bull Shop makes this Bull Plate sprue lube that works very well.

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j35nut posted this 09 June 2008

Jeff Bowles wrote: Some Lee molds do have dimension problems, but the are happy to take care of that. Other than that you need to be a bit more careful and I find they work well.

I would advise to get a good sprue plate lube and keep the sprue lubed up, it will help minimize the galling.

The Bull Shop makes this Bull Plate sprue lube that works very well.

 

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billwnr posted this 09 June 2008

Interesting about the differences in price.  Lyman is still selling their 2 cavity moulds for $46.55 at MidSouth.   The RCBS's are at the $60+ price.

Personally I find a better selection of what I want in the Lyman moulds as my main interest is .30 caliber rifle moulds.

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Ranch Dog posted this 09 June 2008

I'm a Lee mold guy and don't have problems with them. I've got some that I cast 5 to 6K bullets a year with and they have done that for 6 to 7 years. I take care of them, keep them clean, keep them tight, and don't beat on them. Bullets from my Lee molds have put a lot of meat on the table for me and my family as I kill about a dozen big game animals a year.

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linoww posted this 09 June 2008

Ranch Dog wrote: I'm a Lee mold guy and don't have problems with them. I've got some that I cast 5 to 6K bullets a year with and they have done that for 6 to 7 years. I take care of them, keep them clean, keep them tight, and don't beat on them. Bullets from my Lee molds have put a lot of meat on the table for me and my family as I kill about a dozen big game animals a year. "don't have problems with them."

What have you been able to do when the sprue on their 1-2 cavity molds refuses to lay flat? I have a couple that just refuse to work properly.That has been my only big complaint other than the cheap alignment roll pins falling out.

"5 to 6K bullets a year with and they have done that for 6 to 7 years."

42,000 bullets from a Lee mold is amazing.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

linoww wrote: What have you been able to do when the sprue on their 1-2 cavity molds refuses to lay flat? I have a couple that just refuse to work properly.That has been my only big complaint other than the cheap alignment roll pins falling out.

"5 to 6K bullets a year with and they have done that for 6 to 7 years."

42,000 bullets from a Lee mold is amazing.

George

Amazes me too particularly in light of what I read about how cheap they are. Honestly, I've never had an alignment pin fall out on a 2-cavity and had one pin slide slightly on a 6-cavity.

My preference are the 2-cavity molds (the ones everyone consider cheap). I have 17 2-cavity molds (all custom designs). I've had some cataloged 2-cavity molds but sold them as the designs simply didn't interest me. I just sold three custom 6-cavities and have one cataloged mold left, the TL452-230-2R (my oldest and longest in use).

I've tried different things with the different molds that I have but there are two things I have written in law (for myself). Before the mold is used for the first time, I polish the upper surface of the mold with Mother's Aluminum Wheel Polish. I also polish the underside of the sprue plate with a sharpening stone. Please read “polish", not remove metal. I've bought the Bullshop Sprue Plate lube but stopped using it as I couldn't keep from getting it in the bullet cavities. The polishing has made the need for the lube a non-issue. With the polishing to my satisfaction, I insure that the pin holes are staked, clean the mold with Coleman fuel, and get busy. I use the Lee 50/50 stick wax to keep the pins and sprue plate lubed at it's pivot point. The 6-cavity pin that started to move was a result of the pin sticking (operator error on my part) from lack of lube (and lack of heat control).

The second important item I've learned is not to use excessive heat. In fact, I think heat is the #1 cause of problems with the molds. From the pins falling out to the bullets being out of round, it is all caused by heat. I cast with a Lyman #2 clone and now limit my casting to temperatures between 600° to 620°. I've used heat to try to correct a lot of problems in the casting session from a poor alloy mix to poor mold fill-out but the bottom-line is that it is damaging your aluminum mold through expansion and contraction.

All last year I conducted an exhaust study for my reference on mold/alloy temperature and bullet diameter. I measured bullet after bullet with and against the seam and that's how I have a pretty good idea on how many I'm casting. When you apply heat to an aluminum mold, it IS going to react. Bullet diameters grow as do the alignment pin channels and holes. Speaking of which, it is a very simple matter to remove the blocks of the 1 & 2 cavity molds by cleaning up the pin hole with a drill bit (best done with hand pressure), lightly heating the block with a propane torch, touch the stick wax to the hole, tap the mold, and the pins will fall right out. So you see, in a normal castings session if you have lube the pins you are pretty much at a point that they can fall out once heat is applied to the mold. If they come out NOT via the hole, there was definately not enough wax being applied and I would say way too much heat being used.

The ONLY Lee-menting I've done is drilling and taping a set screw on my original 2-cavity TLC432-285-RF. I 'm not sure why I did it as I didn't need it. If the screw is tight and you keep the pivot point lubed, it shouldn't back out as there is no wear against the screw because of the sprue bushing. Heat will cause the parts to stick through expansion but that is why there is a constant need for lube.

In troubleshooting mold problems I'm no longer surprised to hear that someone didn't follow the Lee instructions on lubing the mold at the start of the session. A big error if they did is not relubing  the mold on a constant basis. Actually, my biggest surprise is if they read the instructions at all.

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

Ranch Dog wrote: linoww wrote: What have you been able to do when the sprue on their 1-2 cavity molds refuses to lay flat? I have a couple that just refuse to work properly.That has been my only big complaint other than the cheap alignment roll pins falling out. Sorry George, I get to writing and all hell breaks loose. Try the polishing that I mentioned on both the blocks and the sprue plate. If there has been any wear on the surfaces of either, the sprue pivot bushing is going to need to be adjusted (stoned) to bring these two surfaces, sprue plate and mold blocks, back together as that bushing is what controls the fit between the two. I see guys tighten and tighten the heck out of the sprue plate screw. IF the mold is hot, they can actually force that bushing into the surface of the block (steel trumps aluminum especially when heat is applied).

Another thing that I do is clean the upper surface of the mold blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate on a regular basis during the casting session. I use a piece of leather (rough not finished) and it does a outstanding job of picking up any lead particles or other debris that have collected between the two surfaces. I do think that there is a chance that any micro-contaminates left in the alloy will stick to the steel plate just as they do to the steel in your pot. The leather keeps the plate clean and slick!

My BIGGEST complaint with the Lee molds is the lack of care used in removing the debris from the surface of the mold once it is drilled and tapped for the sprue plate screw. I've never observed their production process but it appears that this must be done in a series of steps that does not allow the material between the block and plate to be removed. The results are that this debris damages the surface of the blocks. I also feel that it is done shortly after the mold is cut (blocks are hot) as I see scarring where the bushing meets the block. Now, if the molds sits at a retailer or my shelf for a while, I've noted further damage to the blocks from the debris. I think it's oxidation on the surface of the blocks caused by the dissimilar metals (the aluminum block debris against the steel sprue plate).

I probably use a lot more care with my Lee molds as I have quite a bit more money tied up in them that the price of a cataloged molds. My designs were all purchased under the special order arrangements. I believe all of these were an order of four so I'm into them for say $50 ea vs. the $17 you can purchase a 2-cavity mold for. More than the bucks is the time or wait for replacements. Really, all this is probably beyond the need. I sell molds for 26 bucks and that makes them almost disposable. Of course, us casters are a weird lot in that we are really “recyclers".

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CB posted this 10 June 2008

Just a quick note to add on mold cleaning..

The rough leather is an option I hadnt thought of... I generally use a carpenters pencil... The small lead stickies just pop right off.

Another good thing to do especially with Lee molds is to get a good sprue plate lube. I hear that the Bull Shop has a sprue plate lube that works very well with Lee molds.

I make my own from Beeswax and graphite and apply to the entire sprue surface after the mold is hot and has bulets in all of the cavities. Then I stick a corner of the mold in the pot until it quits smoking. This keeps the lube out of the cavities. This will help prevent galling of the sprue and adjoining surface. Makes it easier to keep the lead off of that surface.

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454PB posted this 10 June 2008

Once again I feel compeled to report that none of my Lee moulds get lubed or smoked anymore. I too own 17 of them, and I did lube and smoke them when I first started using them 35 years ago, but soon learned that the lube will eventually contaminate the mould cavities and venting with carbon crude buildup. All the lube does is allow the steel alignment pins and also the “V” ribs to align more easily as the mould is closed. Instead, I place my sprue knocker under the mould halves and use it to guide it closed as I watch for correct alignment. One of the worst things you can do is slam a Lee mould closed.

 

When I first started doing this, I expected the sprue plate pivot screw to bind and cause wear, but as long as it is correctly adjusted and the top of the blocks and bottom of the sprue plate kept clear and clean, it is not a problem.

 

I've never had a mould failure or damaged one. I have seen the alignment pins and handle pins move and even fall out, but a simple re-staking with a punch fixed that.  Some of mine have cast well over 5000 bullets and are still going strong.

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linoww posted this 10 June 2008

Thanks for the response RanchDog-

I have done most of what you have mentioned.I have had trouble getting the darn sprue screw off of a couple of molds recently to polish the surfaces.I DO lube the Lee molds,but use the LBT sticks and it works very well.I still have a couple that the plate cannot seem to lay flat regardless of how much i try fix it.The aluminium is burred up beyond belief from when they torqued down the sprue screw.I find i have to “tune up” most other new molds not just Lee's.The two recent LBT molds I bought are the only ones i have had lately that can go from box to casting and in very short order produce perfect bullets.I

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

linoww wrote: Thanks for the response RanchDog-

I have done most of what you have mentioned.I have had trouble getting the darn sprue screw off of a couple of molds recently to polish the surfaces.I DO lube the Lee molds,but use the LBT sticks and it works very well.I still have a couple that the plate cannot seem to lay flat regardless of how much i try fix it.The aluminium is burred up beyond belief from when they torqued down the sprue screw.I find i have to “tune up” most other new molds not just Lee's.The two recent LBT molds I bought are the only ones i have had lately that can go from box to casting and in very short order produce perfect bullets.I

George

George,

You might already being doing this but to remove the screw, place the mold blocks in a vise and do not hold the mold by the handles. The screw protrudes thought the slot cut into the side of the blocks and rests against the handle. If the mold is held with the handle and pressure applied, the screw will not back out. I'm sure this is by design as the hand pressure would be present when the sprue is cut.

"The aluminum is burred up beyond belief from when they torqued down the sprue screw."

This is the damage I described above. What I did to correct it was remove the plate, see if using the vise helps, I then used a very fine stone to hone the burrs created from the installation of the sprue plate bushing. After that I finish up with the polish mentioned.

I've run across several molds, with the Ranch Dog business, that have the heads of the sprue plate screw stripped. They are a witch to get out. Lee sent me a kit to correct this kind of stuff. I've gotten pretty good at addressing issues such as these rather than sending molds back to Lee.

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linoww posted this 10 June 2008

I've run across several molds, with the Ranch Dog business, that have the heads of the sprue plate screw stripped. Yes sir-ee.Those are the ones i have trouble getting apart.

Lee sent me a kit to correct this kind of stuff. Was  it a certificate for a better quality mold ?      Just kidding   ;-) Thanks for the help.Sounds like you use the Lee's more than any of my casting buddies do.Do you use any other brand of molds or are you a 100% Lee guy??

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

linoww wrote: Yes sir-ee.Those are the ones i have trouble getting apart. Needle nose Vise Grips..

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linoww posted this 10 June 2008

Ranch Dog wrote: linoww wrote: Yes sir-ee.Those are the ones i have trouble getting apart. Needle nose Vise Grips..

AH HA!!

I will try to resurect my Lee .22 “Bator” mold tonight.

Thanks abunch.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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3100Loren posted this 10 June 2008

This is really interesting, but being that I am kind of new to casting, as I am sure there are others out there who are too, I find your descriptions of the techniques to be a little abstract.  I think some pictures to go along with the text would make for an interesting “How to tune up your Lee Mouldâ€? primer.  I have been to your web site, and it is great.  I believe I would be willing to pay to get a down load that I could print out ”€œ just a thought.

 

Loren

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

3100Loren wrote: This is really interesting, but being that I am kind of new to casting, as I am sure there are others out there who are too, I find your descriptions of the techniques to be a little abstract.  I think some pictures to go along with the text would make for an interesting “How to tune up your Lee Mouldâ€? primer.  I have been to your web site, and it is great.  I believe I would be willing to pay to get a down load that I could print out ”€œ just a thought.

 

Loren

Good idea and this is easy stuff to accomplish... taking just a few minutes. Pictures and text take time and I will work on it as I can.

Here is one picture that I have on my laptop of a polished mold. You can see the areas that I worked...

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Win52D posted this 23 July 2009

I use the Lee 6 cavity moulds for the .45ACP.  The tumble lube design is a joy to use.  I have been able to get 1” groups at 25yds with a standard SA 1911A1.  I have been using the mould for about 18 years....yes there is wear on the tops of the blocks but it still casts fine.  I don't expect it to last as long as a cast iron mould but then again....it's been 18 years....  Like anything else....if you take care of it and treat it right any bullet mould will last long enough to give you a great return on investment.

I use Lyman, NEI and RCBS for my .223 Rem and 357 Maximum.  I have yet to find a bullet style from Lee that I like for these caliber.

One type for cleaning the Lee moulds.  I use bullet lube to lubricate the pivot joints of the handles and sprue plate.  This leaves a stain on the inside of the mould faces where the air vents are.  I use Easy-Off (No fumes) in the blue can to clean them...works great!

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Win52D posted this 23 July 2009

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Win52D posted this 23 July 2009

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CB posted this 23 July 2009

Lee Mold

I feel my single molds cast as well as any Lyman I own. I would stay away from gang molds for awhile until you can handle the pace.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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[email protected] posted this 26 July 2009

I appreciate my Seaco and Lyman molds. They throw correct size bullets. The Seaco is to heavy and will wear you out. Being of steel or cast iron though one has to figure out a way to keep them from rusting. I spray them with WD40 or another lube of that type to prevent rust. The lube has to be removed before using them again. Thats a disadvantage. Advantage of the Lee mold is I find I don't have to do that. I just set the Lee down when I'm done casting;pick it up again I when start casting. If you buy the Lees buy two of whatever bullets you want. When casting I allow one to cool while I'm filling the other. I keep them lubed as Lee instructs, and I clean them in boiling soap and water scrubbing them with a clean toothbrush now and then. I've cast thousands of pistol bullets with my Lees and they are doing fine. If you need a lot of pistol bullets for competition etc. consider the 6 cavity. Mine makes great bullets but you need to make sure it is cool before opening it. All my Lee molds are pistol molds. The  Lee rifle molds I tried were't worth buying compared to my Lymans and Seacos. Consider it a priveledge to be able to shoot enough to wear out any bullet mold. Flashman

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[email protected] posted this 26 July 2009

I appreciate my Seaco and Lyman molds. They throw correct size bullets. The Seaco is to heavy and will wear you out. Being of steel or cast iron though one has to figure out a way to keep them from rusting. I spray them with WD40 or another lube of that type to prevent rust. The lube has to be removed before using them again. Thats a disadvantage. Advantage of the Lee mold is I find I don't have to do that. I just set the Lee down when I'm done casting;pick it up again I when start casting. If you buy the Lees buy two of whatever bullets you want. When casting I allow one to cool while I'm filling the other. I keep them lubed as Lee instructs, and I clean them in boiling soap and water scrubbing them with a clean toothbrush now and then. I've cast thousands of pistol bullets with my Lees and they are doing fine. If you need a lot of pistol bullets for competition etc. consider the 6 cavity. Mine makes great bullets but you need to make sure it is cool before opening it. All my Lee molds are pistol molds. The  Lee rifle molds I tried were't worth buying compared to my Lymans and Seacos. Consider it a priveledge to be able to shoot enough to wear out any bullet mold. Flashman

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CB posted this 26 July 2009

Flashman

Thanks for the Post. I also use Lyman and Lee. I have a new in the box Lyman 311340 in 2 cavity. Yesterday I cast 30 bullets took me a while to see that I needed more heat. Also I cut off the air to the mold and now the bases are filled out.

I want to clean the mold as I see blotches on the cast. The scratches on the ogives will work in later. I'm not in to buying a $12 can of mold cleaner so I will be my own chemist again. This time i will mix some Kroil with Rubbing Alcohol first and if that's not enough Kroil and White Gas. I don't have any more kerosene or I would use it. Just want to clean the mold for now before they take a set. Like to hear from lino and Ed on this one.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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[email protected] posted this 30 July 2009

Stephen,

I cast some pure lead 125 grain Lee .358 to shoot out of my old Colt Police Positive 38 S +W along with some .445 round balls for my flintlock. As I said I always use two Lee molds while casting to make sure they cool. If just the least little bit to hot they smear lead across the top like crazy. Expensive molds do the same thing but not near as bad as the Lees. Lee molds are about done for if it happens.

Anyhow, pure lead is hard to cast and I couldn't get good bullets. I got frustrated, got a pan of water, added dish soap,set it to boiling on my shop hot plate,threw the molds in and let them boil for about an hour while I worked on something else. I then scrubbed them out with a clean tooth brush then dried them good with a heat gun. When a Lee mold is new it needs smoked, but after its been used and then cleaned I find it doesn't need resmoked. After cleaning, the balls and bullets came out beutiful.

The alignment keys of a Lee mold need lubed so that they close properly,but that can also leed to lube getting in the cavity no matter how carefull one is. Melted lube will go where it will. Mixing with the smoke ya put in there to make the mold throw nice bullets just makes a gue that needs cleaned out.

One cavity of my wadcutter mold started throwing a funky bullet a while back. No amount of resmoking helped. I cleaned the mold and resmoked it. All that did was make the funkiness somewhere else on the bullets. Cleaned it again; this time not resmoking. It now throws perfect bullets.

I think the initial smoking of a mold acts as kind of an oil dry, sucking the oil out of the pores of the mold. Once the smoke does its job and the cavity gets broke in getting ride of the smoke helps. Adding more smoke just junks things up again.

Enough about Lee molds. I think I'll go shoot that old 38. Flashman   

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[email protected] posted this 30 July 2009

Stephen,

I cast some pure lead 125 grain Lee .358 to shoot out of my old Colt Police Positive 38 S +W along with some .445 round balls for my flintlock. As I said I always use two Lee molds while casting to make sure they cool. If just the least little bit to hot they smear lead across the top like crazy. Expensive molds do the same thing but not near as bad as the Lees. Lee molds are about done for if it happens.

Anyhow, pure lead is hard to cast and I couldn't get good bullets. I got frustrated, got a pan of water, added dish soap,set it to boiling on my shop hot plate,threw the molds in and let them boil for about an hour while I worked on something else. I then scrubbed them out with a clean tooth brush then dried them good with a heat gun. When a Lee mold is new it needs smoked, but after its been used and then cleaned I find it doesn't need resmoked. After cleaning, the balls and bullets came out beutiful.

The alignment keys of a Lee mold need lubed so that they close properly,but that can also leed to lube getting in the cavity no matter how carefull one is. Melted lube will go where it will. Mixing with the smoke ya put in there to make the mold throw nice bullets just makes a gue that needs cleaned out.

One cavity of my wadcutter mold started throwing a funky bullet a while back. No amount of resmoking helped. I cleaned the mold and resmoked it. All that did was make the funkiness somewhere else on the bullets. Cleaned it again; this time not resmoking. It now throws perfect bullets.

I think the initial smoking of a mold acts as kind of an oil dry, sucking the oil out of the pores of the mold. Once the smoke does its job and the cavity gets broke in, getting ride of the smoke helps. Adding more smoke just junks things up again.

Enough about Lee molds. I think I'll go shoot that old 38. Flashman   

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CB posted this 31 July 2009

Barnabus

You can't do any better than what these Casters gave you on Lee molds. The only thing I might say is start with a a single or double mold and strive for perfect bullets. Later if you try a Lee 6 cavity realize you must have slick to amazing technique to reduce the number of culls you will cast. I cast with Ideal/Lyman 4 cavities relatively easy with allot fewer culls. Culls go back in the pot later.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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excess650 posted this 02 August 2009

I've used Lee molds in single, double and 6 cavity.  The 6 cavity molds are the best constructed with their cam operated sprue cutter and conventional alignment pins.  The single and double cavity molds can work OK, but seem to need “handled with kid gloves".  I don't care for their alignment configuration or thin sprue cutter.

I was casting with a new Lee double cavity last evening.  Its a Ranch Dog design .379” and it cast pretty well.  I had a couple of instances where the blocks didn't line up perfectly and ended with bullets with fins on edges and top.  I tried being as careful as possible, had already used a lube stick on the pins and a pencil on the underside of the sprue plate.  When I was satisfied that I had enough bullets for testing, I tried another new Lee that I just found in my stash.  It was the C309-130 lighweight 30cal, and single cavity.  It had been cleaned at the same time as the double and received the same treatment.  I couldn't cast good bullets with it at the max 730*F the Lee 20# makes, and it was the same alloy as the other mold.....

I picked up an older Lee double cavity and was able to cast OK with it.  It was a 38-105SWC, for the 38Spl and such.  I've found it to be a VERY accurate bullet in the 38spl, and recall that this was the 2nd that I had bought.  The first was “used to death” and the alignment pins rattled out of it.  This one has a modification that I had forgotten about.  I ADDED a conventional alignment pin at the bottom between the cavities, so must have had a problem, but works better now.  Yeah, Lee molds suck :Xcompared to Lyman, RCBS and their predecessor Ohaus, Saeco, NEI, LBT.  Its too bad, really, as they have some bullet designs that work well.

 

 

 

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Balhincher posted this 02 August 2009

Ranch Dog wrote:  I've bought the Bullshop Sprue Plate lube but stopped using it as I couldn't keep from getting it in the bullet cavities. The polishing has made the need for the lube a non-issue.

I tried Bull Plate lube on a new aluminum mold recently.  The instructions said to wipe it with a Q tip on top of the heated mold with bullets in the cavities and on the underside of the sprue plate.  And then wipe off excess with another dry Q tip.  Perhaps I put too much on the mold and plate but since doing that I have been unable to get a bullet from that mold that didn't have wrinkles.  After casting for quite a while I cooled the mold and scrubbed it with brake parts cleaner then another good scrubbing in soapy water.  Still I am getting wrinkled bullets after using the mold for at least two hours.  Usually, after casting this long a mold will be dropping wrinkle free bullets.  Having no experience with Bull plate lube I'm wondering if I got some of it in the cavities and it is causing my wrinkling problem.  The stuff must be formulated to stay put on a hot mold to lube correctly so is it harder than the usual oil contamination to remove or burn off by casting?  Ranch Dog, when you got the Bull plate lube in the cavities of your molds, how did you get it out?  Did it cause wrinkled bullets?

I hesitate to blame this stuff since a lot of people use it and seem to like it so if it is causing my problem it is probably because I used it wrong.  But something is causing  wrinkled bullets that I can't seem to fix.

I've cast at temperatures from 550 deg to 700 with an alloy that is WW with a little tin.  Have tried other molds with this metal and it makes perfect bullets from these molds right away.  So it seems the problem is the new mold.  The mold itself looks great and is very well made so I believe the problem is some kind of contamination.

I've searched out and read a lot of comments on the Forum about getting a new mold ready to cast and how to remove the oil residue left from its manufacture or oil applied to preserve the mold.  But other than the quote from Ranch Dog above I haven't seen anyone comment on what happens if Bull plate lube gets into the mold cavities.   I have more trouble getting a new mold casting wrinkle free bullets than any other time but this one seems particularly ornery.  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

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biddulph posted this 08 August 2009

Hi all,

I have just bought Lyman molds in .314 (for .303 British) and .375 for H and H.

.314 mold has developed a wee gap so that lead leaks out between the mold halfs around the nose of the bullet. This is thin: I can cut it off with my thumb nail.

When I close the empty mold and put it up to the light I can see daylight comming in. when I do this with the .375 mold all I get is dark.

Any ideas? I'v checked for lead on mold faces, scrubbed the mold with a cotton cloth etc.

cheers

James

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72coupe posted this 09 August 2009

I had the same problem with my new 314299 mould a couple weeks ago. I used my VLD Lyman chamfering tool on the holes opposite the alignment pins.

Solved the problem altogether and just a light touch is all it takes.

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tturner53 posted this 10 October 2009

In the past I've bad mouthed some of my Lee molds here, and praised the ones I liked. Today I cast up about 150 Lee 358-140-SWC with ww + tiny bit tin, using my Lee Production Pot,  The mold and pot are both over 20 yrs. old, well used, and performed great. The bullets are within .0005” of round, according to my best effort at measuring them. The bullets dropped from the mold easily, often without even tapping with a stick. The weight variation is within 2 grains, which I figured out is the sprue variation. Some of them have an “outy” and some an “inny", probably a technique issue but the sprue screw did need tightening and I just let it go. I'll be testing them in handguns and a Marlin 1894C using loads I picked up here or on another site. They will be tumble lubed only as they are a consistent .358. As a side note, I also use a Lee ingot mold that's old as hell and still works fine. A trick I learned is to wrap your sprue plate knocker stick with duct tape, keeps it from splintering over time.

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