casting rookie looking for advice

  • 3.1K Views
  • Last Post 24 November 2008
MrMusic posted this 12 November 2008

i'm a rookie so this is really a huge question...i'm really asking a all encompassing question.  starting off from scratch, what should i buy?

i'm a bit confused about sizing, particularly dies (.354, .355 & .356 for 9mm?) and punches (i know they come in different shapes based on the projectile you are lubing but that's it).

i have several friends that have volunteered wheel weight lead for me so that shouldn't be a problem (i think).

do i need gas checks on all rifle projectiles?

i really can't spend more then say $500 total on this so i can wait on a few of the molds if i need to, i just want something that will get the job done right.

i've been reloading: 115gr rn 9mm 230gr rn 45ACP 255gr swc 45LC 180gr bt .308WIN (and i'm about to start reloading .40S&W) and my preference is in that order.

thanks in advance!!! MrMusic

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
KenK posted this 12 November 2008

The first thing you need is a means of rendering your wheel weights into a usable form.  A lot of people use a propane turker fryer and a cast iron pot for that.

Then you need to figure out what kind of casting pot to get.  I wouldn't choose to use the above mentioned fryer for casting.

Before you pick sizing diameters you have to decide what kind of sizer (if any) that you want to use.

You can get going for well under $500.

The real first thing you need to do is to start reading.  There is a wealth of information here and on other web sites. 

You could cast usable bullets with nothing more than a cheapo Lee mould and some scrounged/goodwill type equipment.  

This is a pretty good article from someone starting out from scratch.  http://www.realguns.com/archives/055.htm>http://www.realguns.com/archives/055.htm

Also, if you join the Cast Bullet Association you get a free book with a lot of good information in it.

Attached Files

CB posted this 12 November 2008

MrMusic, you'll size according to your bore diameter. Tap a pure lead slug through your barrel and measure across the grooves.

Be careful if loading for semi-auto pistols with seating depth. Most CBs will need to be seated deep to function out of the clip and that'll raise pressures considerably. Best to always load at the crimp groove if possible.

You don't need gas checks of rifle CBs if you keep the loads way down around 1,200 - 1,400fps. Use softer lead to keep pressure down, say 50/50 Pb/wheel weights, or 25/1 lead/tin.

When I first started out, I used a little Lyman 10lb cast iron pot with a ladle over a Coleman camp stove and with a Lyman thermometer. Have used it for 31 years...last year, now went totally electric. Bought a Lyman lubrisizer with a handful of dies at an auction for a song. Shop around and ask shooting buddies about others who might have used equipment for sale. Most of my equipment is used................Dan

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 12 November 2008

 I'm partial to Lyman products. If you look in the charts or books you'll see that all moulds have a corresponding top punch. RCBS and Lyman interchange on top punches and shellholders. If you want to start with the small kit, the Lyman Master Casting kit is only about $140. Comes with electric pot(small 8#) and sizer. Has the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook and complete instructions. After that, all you need are sizing dies and lube to make usable stuff. Seems that's too simple for some. I have been using the same kit and have extras too. I have some match grade loads that shoot really well but, it takes some work too. Lyman has the most affordable ladle for casting, long handle works good. I use wax to flux, so start collecting candles and wax lube. After joining this site, you'll find a lot of reading material to acquaint you better with cast bullets. You'll come to love it!

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 12 November 2008

Here's a look at the sizer that comes with the kit, and it's cheaper in kit form than seperately!  They are cast iron, they aren't extremely strong. I use a pin heater in the back of mine to heat lube so it flows good.  Of course, it's sitting in the middle of a mix of RCBS products and Lyman accessories but, it's my dollars anyhow. 

http://www.midwayusa.com/>http://www.midwayusa.com/  Welcome to the store-good folks.

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 12 November 2008

 Gas checks- Long Colt probably not, just don't buy a GC mould. Get yourself a flat base mould.

.308 Winchester, probably. Anything that consistently fires over 1800 fps can use a gas check to your advantage. I have pistol bullets that use gas checks. They aren't a big deal, they sell them by the thousand (gulp!). You just press them on with your fingers and insert base in the press and shove it firmly in place, using the gas check seater. No biggie.

Attached Files

Largom posted this 13 November 2008

      Get the book “Jacketed Performance With Cast Bullets” by Veral Smith of  Lead Bullet Technology. Veral is a member of this forum also.

Before desiding what to buy, READ, READ, READ.

   Larry

Attached Files

JetMech posted this 13 November 2008

All of the above, plus I would start out with the 45 LC. That's probably the easiest round to start out with and get accurate loads. Auto loaders can be a little more finicky. It can get complicated when you are trying to match bore size (or throat size) and all the possible variables.

I say start with a basic casting pot, like a Lee production pot or the turkey fryer that comes with a cast iron pot instead of the tall stainless pot. Cast with a ladle if you get the cast iron pot, or pour directly into the mold with a bottom pour Lee.You can pan lube them (there's a U Tube video that shows how easy it is and very little equipment costs. Even it is more complex than need be for basic lubing). Load and shoot. It can be that simple. I started out with $50 in equipment and shot perfectly good groups from my 41 mag at reduced velocities for a year or so when I decided to work on .30 rifle bullets.

I would get a dial caliper to measure your bullets and bore slugs. After you get the basic process down, look at lube-sizers, die sizes, and all the other possible equipment that you will eventually find a good use for.

Attached Files

MrMusic posted this 15 November 2008

ok, first off, i'd like to thank you gents for the advice and encouragment!

it's not easy to find “Jacketed Performance With Cast Bullets” by Veral Smith.  i found one place that sells it, i'll probably order it this week.

i think i'm gonna take dollar bill's advice and start out with 45LC and maybe 357mag.  i'll buy the lee molds and pan lube till i get a few rounds under my belt.

does anyone cast .223 for an AR?  how often are there feed issues?

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 23 November 2008

Veral Smith is not hard to find. http://lbtmoulds.com/books.shtml>http://lbtmoulds.com/books.shtml 

Lead Bullets Technology is his website LBT for short.

Attached Files

Suo Gan posted this 24 November 2008

I am fairly new to casting as well.  I read the article by Joseph D'Alessandro and found it good.  The articles safety suggestions are spot on.  I would say that the initial melt from ww to ingot probably ought to be done outside on a coleman stove or turkey burner and cast iron dutch oven.  This reduces the amount of slag in the electric pot, and reduces the fumes too.  D'Alessandro is way too anal about the washing and primping of ww, minus a huge amount of obvious trash etc, just add them to the pot, flux with wax etc, skim with a gloved hand and teaspoon.  The grease will act as a flux for the melt.  Save the electric pot for casting bullets.  I bought the Lyman kit as suggested.  I figured the Lyman name was a standby...everything in the kit is alright except the sizer.  The Lyman 4500 is not a strong unit, I later bought the RCBS unit with a much heavier base casting.  I also would suggest the RCBS ladle as it holds more lead than the Lyman (the Lee ladle is a joke for pouring, but good for skimming) and therefore is easier to pour larger bullets, and retains heat better. The Lee six banger molds are pretty good too.  But for smaller calibers I have had greater success with iron molds.  Try Saeco, and RCBS for moulds. I would also become a member of the CBA as you get the free book by J. Brennan.  It is a good investment.  I think that you could spend $1000 on this easy, $500 is bare minimum starting cost (believe me), even with Lee stuff.  I say just go for it, it's rewarding, and the equipment last's a long, long time.  SG

Attached Files

Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close