30-20 or 32-20

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  • Last Post 26 January 2009
fineredmist_7 posted this 18 January 2009

I have my F. DeHaas chicopee center fire almost ready to barrel. I wish to chamber it in 30-20, because I have a ruger take off in 308WIN that is in good shape. However the only 32-20 reamer at reamerrentals.com is for a 312 barrel not a 308. If any one has any insight I would appreciate it. I will take a few pics of the action this week and post them for you'all. I also have a Mosin-nagant that could donate its barrel to the project if getting a reamer for the 30-20 proves to be to much of a problem.  If any one has the dims for the 30-20 chamber, a homemade D-reamer is not out of the question. ;)   any advice as to molds that have worked for you is also appreciated. thanks guys

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RicinYakima posted this 19 January 2009

FWIW,

I used an older Clymer reamer, marked 32/20, and the pilot was 0.300” and fit into a 30 caliber barrel just fine. Reamer rentals will usually measure the solid pilot and send one that will fit a 30 caliber barrel, as that is commonly done, for rifle reamers as opposed to pistol cylinder reamers.

For 32/20's made from 30 caliber Springfield barrels, the Lyman 311576, 313492 and 311316 have worked well for me.

HTH, Ric

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Antietamgw posted this 22 January 2009

Ric, glad to see you're back on line again! Does your reamer cut a throat? Are you happy with it? I have a .32 H&R floating pilot reamer but have resisted .32-20 so far. Everytime I want to order Starline brass they seem to be out of it... I've used a few D reamers and they are fine but slow. IMO, if you use one and can bore the chamber slightly short and .010-,015 under neck diameter,  I think you will end up with a better chamber - that's alot of metal to remove with the front edge of a D reamer.  The few I have made have been from O-1 and were hardened and drawn by spinning slowly in a drill press while heating and plunging straight into automatic transmission fluid to quench. Seemed to work pretty well. My Savage 23's in .32-20 shoot Lyman 311008 best though a 98gr. SWC is pretty good too. The 311008 feeds better from mine though that won't matter with your single shot. 2.8-3.0 Bullseye is my plinking load and is very accurate, generally under 1” at 50 yds. It's my squirrel load when I can get away to hunt the little boogers. Get some pics of that action up - sounds like the ultimate bunny gun! I envy your ability and perseverance to get it finished!

Keep your plowshare and your sword. Know how and when to use them.

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RicinYakima posted this 22 January 2009

Antietamgw,

The Clymer I borrowed, had a nice polished end, a recessed space, then the throat section and case section. (Sadly, when he passed away, his sons took all of his guns and things and sold them to a Portland, OR, gun shop for about 10 cents on the dollar.) The throat section was 0.314” and the shoulder was back close to the SAMMI drawings rather than the old black powder chamber that was huge!

I have never used a “D” reamer, but have seen several articles over the years on how to make and use them. They have recommended using a drill in the lathe to do the bulk of the stock removal, and the reamer just to final dimentions.

Yep, 3.0 grains of Bullseye is a fine load that works in every 32/20 that I have used.

Ric

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fineredmist_7 posted this 23 January 2009

Here is a pic of my chicopee, I made the receiver out of stainless:shock: hehehe

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fineredmist_7 posted this 23 January 2009

ok what did I do wrong? I click the browse button find the picture, and hit send, then no pic???

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Antietamgw posted this 24 January 2009

Maybe it's to large in size? I just tried it from my harddrive and don't see the pic in the post preview , Maybe try saving a copy of the pic resized tp 800X600 and attach that. I usually put them on photobucket.com and paste the .img directly in the post. It's automatically resized on photobucket and gives me a backup of the file.

Keep your plowshare and your sword. Know how and when to use them.

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fineredmist_7 posted this 24 January 2009

one more try

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Antietamgw posted this 25 January 2009

Looks like you got the picure thing figured out and most of the hard work done on the action. Would you do anything differently if you were to make another action?

Keep your plowshare and your sword. Know how and when to use them.

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fineredmist_7 posted this 25 January 2009

I would start out with two pieces of 1/2 thick chrome/moly for the receiver sides. Then I would cut the support shoulders with a rotary table, or a really big fly-cutter. for starters.  

P.S.  My daughter, Melody was born last night at 9:15 mountain time.  7lbs 1&1/2 oz.  19*1/2” long.  She is our second child, my son Jason is 3yrs old.

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RicinYakima posted this 25 January 2009

Congradulations! Daughters are fun, too. Ric

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Duane Trusty posted this 25 January 2009

Congradulations

I have been blessed with a daughter and grand daughter in my life time.

Boys are boys then become men. Girls will always be little girls in a Dad's eyes.

Duane

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Ed Harris posted this 26 January 2009

3 grains of Bullseye works well with most cast bullets in the .32 H&R Magnum too from 88-118 grs.

Drop the charge down to 2.5 grs. of Bullseye when bullet weight goes over 120 grs. and drop down to 2 grs. of Bullseye when bullet weight goes over 130 grs. Quiet bunny loads. Heavier than 130 grs. doesn't stabilize well below 900 f.p.s. in 16” twist, but if you have a ten inch twist barrel with rifle throat you can seat a 152-gr. flatnosed, plainbased bullet out Scheutzen style if it will chamber and it's like shooting a .30 cal. CB cap at 800 f.p.s. with 2 grs. of Bullseye in the H&R Mag. case.

Works for me.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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