White Label Lube

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  • Last Post 16 February 2011
outdoorfan posted this 03 March 2009

I am new to casting, and I want to use White Label Lube because of the excellent price and performance.  However, I could use a little help in choosing which ones would work best for my applications.

I need a lube that will handle speeds up to 2600 fps in two of my rifles.  I'm sure the Carnauba Red is what I want for that. 

I also have a .45 Colt that I run around 1100-1200 fps with a heavy bullet, as well as a .357 that I will be shooting at 1000-1100 or so.  Which lube(s) would be best for these applications?

BTW, I will be pan lubing, if that makes any difference.

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454PB posted this 03 March 2009

The BAC will handle both if everything is right, it's basically 50/50 Alox/beeswax with a little carnauba added. Lars will mix orders if you want to try each blend.

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Recluse posted this 03 March 2009

outdoorfan wrote: BTW, I will be pan lubing, if that makes any difference.

This (pan lubing) will probably make it easier in the fact that you won't have to/need to purge any lube from a lubesizer. Instead, I'd just get separate pans from the dollar store--one pan for each brand/style of lube you plan to use.

The carnauba red will probably do you best for the high-velocity rifle stuff. For your slower moving stuff, you might also try his 2500 blend--been hearing excellent things about it.

You might also read up a bit on pan-lubing and get some pointers. I've never had all that great of luck with it until I started pre-heating the boolits, then pouring the melted lube in the pan. I use my Lee push-through sizers afterwards to sort of “squeegee” any excess lube off.

:coffee:

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outdoorfan posted this 04 March 2009

Recluse wrote: outdoorfan wrote: BTW, I will be pan lubing, if that makes any difference.

This (pan lubing) will probably make it easier in the fact that you won't have to/need to purge any lube from a lubesizer. Instead, I'd just get separate pans from the dollar store--one pan for each brand/style of lube you plan to use.

The carnauba red will probably do you best for the high-velocity rifle stuff. For your slower moving stuff, you might also try his 2500 blend--been hearing excellent things about it.

You might also read up a bit on pan-lubing and get some pointers. I've never had all that great of luck with it until I started pre-heating the boolits, then pouring the melted lube in the pan. I use my Lee push-through sizers afterwards to sort of “squeegee” any excess lube off.

:coffee:

I actually have done a fair amount of reading up on pan lubing, but I haven't seen anything on preheating the bullets.  At about what temperature should they be to effectively do this?

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Jimlakeside posted this 05 March 2009

I use Carnauba Red in my 9MM running 147 grain bullets at 900 to 950 fps and it works fine. I like it because it smokes less that the Beeswax.

I have also used the 50/50 and it works great too.

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runfiverun posted this 05 March 2009

i would use their 2700 lube. or their bac. if you e-mail them leah will send you a sample pack to try.

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mrbill2 posted this 05 March 2009

I just started to try their lube this week. Carnauba Red 

311413   WWAC   A2400/18 grs.  10 shots @ 100yds.  Rem 700 SPS  308 Win.

 

mrbill2

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Brodie posted this 05 March 2009

Doesn't look to me like you have any thing to complain about.  Nice shooting!

B.E.Brickey

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Recluse posted this 05 March 2009

I actually have done a fair amount of reading up on pan lubing, but I haven't seen anything on preheating the bullets. At about what temperature should they be to effectively do this?

I just get mine set up, then go over them good with a heat gun until they are too hot to touch with bare fingers, then I'll pour the hot lube in. This way, boolits and lube cool together. Since the hot boolits take longer to cool than the lube, I feel I get better adhesion to the boolits.

May be just my imagination, though. But there's a lot of superstition in the mystical art of boolit casting--and I'm definitely superstitious. If it works for me, I've learned not to question it too hard.

Some folks get their boolits set up in a metal pan then put them in the oven or a toaster oven. I'm not that coordinated and I end up knocking some of them or most of them over every single time.

:coffee:

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mrbill2 posted this 06 March 2009

Old Coot wrote: Doesn't look to me like you have any thing to complain about.  Nice shooting! Thanks!!!    Now if I can do that when it counts. Have yet to shoot my first CB benchrest match but I'm having a good time getting ready.

Mr. Bill2

mrbill2

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Brodie posted this 06 March 2009

Exactly how one pan lubes may nopt make any difference as long as y ou believe in your method.

Kinda like Dumbo and the feather!

B.E.Brickey

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hunterspistol posted this 06 March 2009

   They can send you samples, and do so willingly.  I've been using Carnuba Red in a Lyman with heater.  I've even tried it in 9mm, and I'm impressed. The BAC is a little softer and would work for most calibers. I really love this lube!

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outdoorfan posted this 07 March 2009

Thanks for the advice.  I now have a game plan in place.

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Dale53 posted this 14 March 2009

I have been using Carnauba Red for some time in my target revolvers (.32L/,32 H&R,.38/.357,.45ACP/Auto Rim; .45 Colt.

It shoots just like NRA 50/50 Alox/Beeswax but has better properties: 1 - Higher melting temperature 2 - Less sticky 3 - DOES require heat to run through the Star luber/sizer 4 - After it cools the bullets are nicer to handle

I prefer it. It leaves the barrel slick as can be after shooting 200-300 rounds. I used to make my own lube but NO MORE. White Label is as good as I made up and too inexpensive to fool with it any longer.

Dale

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mrbill2 posted this 15 March 2009

Well I've hit a snag with the Carnauba Red WLL. It leaves behind a barrel coated with Alox that is a pita to remove. Patch after patch comes out with brown streaks. I have cleaned with Kroil,Shooters Choice, and Hoppies Blackpowder Solvent. J-B is the only way I can get it removed. Lyman 50/50 did the same thing but not as bad. The jury is still out on this lube for me. This is in my Rem 700 in 308 Mr. Bill2

mrbill2

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RicinYakima posted this 15 March 2009

Mr Bill the 2nd,

None of those are carnuba wax solvents. Try two wet patches of denatured alcohol followed by a dry patch. Some of us like the “brown residue” as we don't have to shoot so many fouling shots to get the groups back again.

HTH, Ric

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mrbill2 posted this 16 March 2009

I'll give that alcohol a try. I don't know, but it's hard for me not to clean after a days shooting. I'm still learning about this cast bullet stuff. Thanks for the tip.

Mr. Bill2

 

RicinYakima wrote: Mr Bill the 2nd,

None of those are carnuba wax solvents. Try two wet patches of denatured alcohol followed by a dry patch. Some of us like the “brown residue” as we don't have to shoot so many fouling shots to get the groups back again.

HTH, Ric

mrbill2

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RicinYakima posted this 16 March 2009

mrbill2,

Well, “clean” is a relative term with cast bullets. It is like shooting a 22 RF match rifle in some ways. Unlike jackets bullets that iron in powder and primer fouling with every shot, plus copper fouling, the lube keeps carbon fouling soft and protects the bore from rust. One pass with a nylon brush and a couple of dry patches is fine if you are going to shoot the gun in the next couple of weeks. Ric

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linoww posted this 16 March 2009

I was shooting straight caranuba wax in plainbase loads recently (applied in liquid form and air dried)and got a weird buildup in the throat and about 10” down the bore.Groups got wild until i shot two GC loads and it cleaned it all out.A tight patch with

I agree with Ric about cleaning or not. I think you either dont clean or clean religiuosly.When i was more active in CBA BR shooting ( not competitive mind you<g>)i used to ask the top guys(current record holders then) why they cleaned so much! It was so they were certain their bore condition was exactly like the last group shot was the anwser.I personally dont scrub my bore all that often , but i dont think i can prove it hurts or helps anything.I do have one 22-250 i THINK shoots cast better when shot no more than 20 shots before cleaning.Equally dirty or equally clean is what you want.IMHO anyway.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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hunterspistol posted this 19 March 2009

    I recently switched cleaners to Mineral Spirits(paint thinner) and found it works better for cast bullets than Hoppes#9!  It seems that lead is a different thing altogether. Also found out that Hoppes was corroding my brushes at the wire core, causing some of the black residue on patches.

     I haven't yet used Carnuba Red for a season, so I wouldn't definitively say what will work best.  There's a lot of information here that makes more sense than what advertisements tell a guy.

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CB posted this 19 March 2009

When I have serious build up in my barrel, I use carburetor cleaner in the aerosol can. This method has worked great for me for many years.

Jerry

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Dale53 posted this 22 March 2009

I have used White Label Carnauba Red for a year or so in my revolvers (.32/32H&R, .38/,357, and .44 Spec/Magnum, .45 ACP. I do NOT clean after each shoot. I have probably shot 3000-5000 rounds through my revolvers. I clean probably every 300-500 rounds. I use Ed's Red and everything wipes out with a couple of wet patches. It represents NO problems for me. Note that none of these are high velocity loads but I anticipate no difference, there.

Dale53

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hunterspistol posted this 29 March 2009

  I looked this up, my 9mm has some streaks in the grooves that are hard to get out. Ethyl alcohol won't touch it, supposedly. Ethyl acetate is the best solvent commonly available as Nail Polish Remover, followed by xylene and I don't want that-it's a hydrocarbon of benzene, which is highly carcinogenic.

      I think acetone from the lumber yard helps, ethyl acetate is something not on hand.  Kano Kroil is also pretty good as far as I can tell.

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mikld posted this 05 June 2009

I, too, have found that heating the boolits will help make the lube stick better. I use an easier way than preheating boolits and pouring melted lube; I place boolits base down in a pan and add chunks of lube (enough to cover lube groove, you may have to adjust depth when melted) and heat together in a 200 degree oven for about 15 to 20 minutes. I allow the pan/boolits to cool and cut out with a cutter I made from Stainless Steel tubing (reamed to just above boolit diameter and sharpened on one end). On the next lube session just put boolits in the holes left from th last batch and heat. I use a cutter because some of the softer lubes won't stick to the boolit when I “punch” them out. Works for me!:cool:

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CB posted this 05 June 2009

outdoorfan wrote: I need a lube that will handle speeds up to 2600 fps in two of my rifles.  I'm sure the Carnauba Red is what I want for that. 

This is an older thread but depending on what you're shooting once you start thinking about shooting 2600 fps lube will be the least of your problems. 

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billglaze posted this 14 February 2011

This is the first I've heard about Lars lube. How do I contact them?

In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. My fate is not entirely in Gods hands, if I have a weapon in mine.

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billglaze posted this 14 February 2011

This is the first I've heard about Lars lube. How do I contact them?

In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. My fate is not entirely in Gods hands, if I have a weapon in mine.

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Recluse posted this 15 February 2011

billglaze wrote: This is the first I've heard about Lars lube. How do I contact them?

http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/>http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/

You can e-mail them at: [email protected]

Good folks. REAL good folks.

:coffee

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c3d4b2 posted this 16 February 2011

I found a Silicone pan helped with getting the cooled lube (and bullets) out of the pan on some of Lars lubes.

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