Hello all, I have a problem with a Lyman 454424 mold. The bullets will not fill out properly. They are wavy, or the the bullets get wrinkles etc.
I have used a file on the vent lines, checked the sprue plate for flatness.I have cleaned the mold with detegent, carb cleaner, boiled it with soapy water etc.
I am at my wits end I really like this mold and would like it to cast for me. Any ideas as to what to try next? I appreciate it.
Attached Files
Turn the heat up. What are you using for alloy and what are you melting it in? If it's WWs and the bullets are shiny it's too cold.
Attached Files
What kind of mold is it? Alum, steel, brass ?? I agree with Pat i, on turning up the heat, do you use a thermometer? If your casting WW, try running your pot around 700-750*.
Are you Preheating your mold before casting?? If not, put the bottom of the mold into the melt in the pot and let it get hot before you start casting. I like to use a 1000w hot plate to keep my molds hot , as I use more than one when casting and this keeps them all hot and ready .
The only thing other than what has been mentioned, is if your mold is contaminated, you may have to soak it in Mineral Spirits/Paint thinner for a day or two, and then cleaning with boiling water/detergent
Attached Files
I am running the lyman bottom pour furnace at 800 degrees on the thermostat. The mold is a Lyman steel mold. The alloy is ww and I pre heat the mold while the pot is heating up. I can try the paint thinner and see. I would really like to use this mold. Thanks for the help and ideas . Bill
Attached Files
I'd be just a tad careful placing that iron mold in the melt to preheat it. An iron mold can be warped this way sometimes if it's overdone.
I use quite a lot of wheel weights and run the temp just enough to make good bullets, usually between 725-750 degrees. Along with making sure that the melt and mold are up to temp, I have found that adding a little bit of tin to the wheel weights often makes the difference. Sounds like the mold in not hot enough.
Attached Files
back_4ts,
I hate to be the one to break this to you, but “800” on your Lyman pot doesn't mean anything. The “scale” may have been worked out for an entirely different variable resistor and all are notoriously inaccurate.
My new Lee pot will let the alloy go from 620 degrees to 910 (!) degrees between cycles turning current off and on. I found out there is no “upper” that works on the thermostat, it just turns on until the high temperture safety kicks on. And this is on the 4 setting!
Do yourself a favor and find an accurate way to measure temperature.
Ric
Attached Files
Guess I could get a thermometer. Never needed one before. I have never had this problem before.I have been casting bullets since 1980. The other molds I use from 22, to45-70 all work well. I am willing to try it and see.
Attached Files
I'll ask again if the bullets are shiney? I hold the bottom front edge of both my iron and aluminum mould in the melt to preheat them and it hasn't warped anything yet. Even when I get a new iron mould I spray it down with brake cleaner to knock the majority of oil off and then hold it in there until it's smoking pretty good. With the LBTs I stick the front edge in and that's it.
Attached Files
Attached Files
back_4ys,
I re-read your first post. Your bullets are frosty and wrinkled?
You have a major problem here. Frosty means the alloy is cooling slowly in the mould to solidus, iron mould is hot enough, and wrinkled means contaminates or oily vapor or trapped air inside the cavity.
Pour this alloy in a known good mould, what happens?
Check to see that the sprue cutter is loose enough to move under its own weight, not too tight.
Are the wrinkles always in the same place on the bullet?
Let us know what is happening.
Ric
Attached Files
Good evening.
I cast about 400 45 bullets and 200 45/70 same alloy same pot. No problems.
The sprue plate is snug but not tight.
3 yes always on the nose of the bullet.
I am going to try and get it cleaned up again, will try one of the cleaners and boil it good with water. See what happens I guess . I f I have to I will try and get another mold strip this one of parts and throw in the box. Thanks for all the suggestions and help with this.
Bill
Attached Files
try filling the mold faster or even holding it right up to the spout. i have this mold and i have to fill it pretty quickly and i usually run right at 725*
Attached Files
Before scrapping it, I'd also try smoking smoking the cavities good with either a candle or a wooden match. Sometimes this has gotten a balky mold going.Can't hurt anyway.
Attached Files
Another thing you might try before scrapping it is to basically lap it slightly with medium or fine aluminum oxide Scothbrite pad. Cut a 1” square piece, slide it into the end of a slotted wooden dowel chucked up in a cordless drill and give it 30 seconds of rotation in both directions. Then clean the mold thoroughly with denatured alcohol and apply cold-blueing. I prefer Brownell's Oxpho-Blue cream. Shoot, just the cleaning and blueing will do the trick, sometimes.
Attached Files
or take one of your cast bullets drill the end and run a screw into it then use some polishing compound flitz or even tooth paste and turn the bullet that way. you only need the polish where the problem is.
Attached Files
In reply to the last four postings. I will try cleaning it with either the tooth paste or scotch brite. And clean good. If that don`t work then I will smoke the cavities and then pour faster and set on the spout. I appreciate you guys trying to help. Thanks Bill
Attached Files
When I have a stubborn mould that causes wrinkles, I ALWAYS assume I didn't get all of the preservative off. A good, stiff, toothbrush and Comet cleanser works well for those stubborn ones. Do NOT give up. After you get this thing broken in, it will work fine for you and you'll wonder what all of the fuss was about.
I have been casting for nearly sixty years and occasionally, I still get an aggravating mould. All of my moulds are stored in a controlled atmosphere (centrally heated, de-humidified, and cooled). After I get one broken in, I do NOT smoke, oil, grease or ANYTHING. I have NOT been bothered by rust of any kind and my moulds (over 70 at last count) are ready to go on a moments notice.
To a certain extent, this happens with most newly acquired moulds - some of them react well to a simple liquid hand soap and a toothbrush but some can be downright aggravating.
Good luck! Dale53
Attached Files
At LBT, the only cutting oil I use is bear lard and that is blown clean with high pressure air, so it is only a film. Heating the mold till smoking stops removes all the lard and the mold is running perfectly.
Any time there is something in a mold that causes a casting problem it is because the stuff in it is smoking when hot lead hits it. When it is smoking it is going away, and probably a lot faster than with a lot of scrubbing, solvents, soap water, etc. so the easiest way to get a new mold going is to heat it till the smoking stops, which will probably be about the temperature it takes to get top quality bullets.
Attached Files
I thought this is a good place to post an item I just got.
harbor freight:router speed control $14.95.I just got mine and tried it on the Lee 20 lb.worked good then changed to Saeco,I wired straight across the internal control.
pluged in the controller and adjusted till I got 750 degrees.you have to have a temp gage,I used lymans. TAYLOR make gages and I am going to call and see if they still make hight temp as I have one to 700 degrees.hopefully they make a 8 or 900 degre one as they are $10.
the controller adjust the voltage and runs continuos,so the temp stays constant.I do suppose it would change as the level goes down but it might not.this is an inexpensive way to control the heat.
how do you post to” the fouling shot"?
Attached Files
Hello,
I just got done casting bullets in my old Ideal single cavity 454424 with good results. It doesn't have vent lines and has the square cut grease groove. I run my mix hot and allow a quick flow from my rcbs pot.
Attached Files
wimilkman
30
pat i.
18
Tom Acheson
14
Aaron
12
BRatigan
10
MarkinEllensburg
9
Ed Harris
8
mashburn
6
porthos
5
MP1886
4
