Case Prep

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  • Last Post 11 January 2009
CB posted this 08 December 2006

First be sure to vote in the poll above!

Let's talk about case prep... Pistol, Rifle, BPCR which ever you use.

How do you prep your cases after firing?

I have what I think is a good procedure for getting the case ready for the next load.

First I tumble the spent case. I think a clean case not only looks better, but I can see if there are any cracks and it saves wear and tear on my dies. I tumble in crushed walnut shells treated with a little Nu-Finish car wax. It is a polyurethane formula wax and doesn't collect at the inside of the case shoulder. I do leave the primer in so the flash hole doesn't get packed full of tumbling media.

I then de-prime and resize the necks only.

Next I clean out the primer pockets and make sure the flash holes are clean.

Re-prime and I am ready to go..

This is what I use for my production gun, the 30BR is a little different, but very close to this in that I only tumble every couple of loads and wipe with Ed's Red inbetween tumblings. The reason is that the 30BR fits the chamber better than my production gun(s) and leaves less residue on the outside of the case.

Just figgered I should add that little bit.

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billwnr posted this 09 December 2006

I wipe my case necks off with Ed's Red at the range.  Every coupla reloads I clean out the primer pockets.

Most of the time I don't fiddle with my cases as they are “ordered” by weight in the case box and I don't want to disturb that sequence.

 

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CB posted this 09 December 2006

I don't clean my brass but once a year, before the NT. I spin my brass on a mandrel and buff it clean with 0000 steel wool. The only reason I do this is because I'll find a bur on the rim or neck or somewhere that I figure might hang up wrong when chambered in the rifle.

I do run a Sinclair Primer tool in the primer pocket to clean it out before every reloading.

Shiny cases do not turn me on, nor does it turn my accuracy on.

Wingnut

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Kodyak posted this 17 July 2007

I shoot some Black Powder Cartridge Rifle matches, so my system may be different than others. Here's my system; after firing loaded rounds I decap cases, drop them into a jug filled with water and Dawn dishsoap. Upon arriving home, I scrub-out the cases inside using a cordless-screwdriver with a bore-brush in it, while the cases are still wet. Rinse in warm water, roll them in a towel, then right into the vibratory-cleaner, leaving the lid off. That lets the moisture escape. The vibrator is loaded with walnut-hulls and Graf's case cleaner. Vibrate for about two hours and they're like new again. Works for me,

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Ed Harris posted this 17 July 2007

1) Decap all fired brass using Lee decapper

2) Tumble clean always in untreated corncob to remove range dirt.

3) Inside deburr all once-fired cases. Any previously reloaded cases check length and trim/deburr if needed.

4)A - straight-wall cases don't get sized, but use as-cast, unsized bullets with Rooster Jacket or Lee Liquid Alox.

4)B - bottle-necked cases all get FL sized and tumbled again to remove any sizing lube.

5)B - clean primer pockets of bottlenecked cases after second tumbling.

6) Flare case mouth

7) Prime

8) Charge powder

9) Visually inspect powder fill 100%

10) Hand start bullet

11) Seat to depth

12) Crimp and Profile loaded rounds using Lee Factory crimp die for all straight walled cases.

13) Visually inspect, box, label, lot log.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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CB posted this 17 July 2007

Dan Willems wrote: Shiny cases do not turn me on, nor does it turn my accuracy on.

Wingnut

Yeah you have told about me that before, I was wondering though, what method do you use to size your cases or case necks?

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CB posted this 17 July 2007

Jeff,

I used to size short with a Full Length sizing die or a Neck-size die, then run my cases in a Lyman M-die to open up the mouth to seat a cb into the case. WHAT A HASSLE!

After I started competing about my third match, I went to a Redding S-die with bushings. I bought 3 bushings; .334, .336, .338. These bushings have covered all my 30 caliber needs in the 30-30 Win., 30-40 Krag, 300 Savage, 30 Rem. and 30-06. They all work in the 308 Win. S-die body. I consider the S-die as the most valuable development in reloading that I know of since I started back in '79. They are also a great tool for my prairie-dog jacketed bullet reloading.

With cb loads, I have never FL sized any cartridge for over 3 years now and have no problems with cases and loading them in the firearm. I do run the neck all the way into the S-bushing, not partially. Is this what you wanted to know?...............Dan

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CB posted this 17 July 2007

Well not really for my benefit, but since you are last years Grand National Champion I figgered maybe some here could use that info.

You know what I use, you saw me reloading at WH last year at the regional. L.E.Wilson dies and an arbor press.

In fact I am loading ammo right now for the 30BR Brenda is gonna shoot this weekend. I will do mine tomorrow (I hope)

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billwnr posted this 17 July 2007

I use the Redding bushing dies for Military shooting. Got my tip(s) from Dan.

I also use Lapua .30/06 cases as the necks are about the most uniform I've seen.

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mtgrs737 posted this 17 September 2007

I clean grungy brass with walnut media that I treat with midway's liquid case polish, then I finish them up with corn cobb and more of the Midway polish. Cases come out so shiney you can see yourself in them (but not a good idea if your me!). I don't tumble cases each loading but wait till they need a good cleaning, no since wearing out the media and tumbler.

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JetMech posted this 08 November 2008

I know this is an old thread, but is anyone using ceramic now? I've read some good reviews of it but don't know that it's worth the cost of a new tumbler and the media.

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Largom posted this 09 November 2008

      1.  Once fired cases get deprimed in RCBS universal deprimer.

      2.  Clean primer pockets.

      3.  Tumble in untreated cob IF dirty.

      4.  Neck size using Redding bushing dies.

      5.  Tumble in cob with a dash of rubbing alcohol added.

      6.  Check case length. Trim if necessary. Debur inside mouth with Lyman VLD       

           debur tool. This eliminates need to flare on bottleneck cases only.

       7.  Prime and charge. Check charge in cases with flash light.

       8.  Hand start bullet in case. Seat with Redding Competition seating die. For

            cast bullets I make my own seating stems to fit the bullet.

        9.  Straight wall cases get flared prior to charging with a Lee flare die.

       10.  For crimping I use a Lee factory crimp die.

              I like my cases and loads to look factory new.

                  Larry

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sundog posted this 09 November 2008

Well, I couldn't vote, because I use both, treated.  Walnut for bottle neck cases and corn cob for larger straight wall cases.  That is, IF I tumble at all, which I do only when needed.  I use Midway brass polish in both media.

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CB posted this 11 January 2009

I generally load for NBRSA BR chambers where I FL size each time. For cast bullet loading sizing would depend on the chamber and the type of dies I have available. FL sizing can be anywhere from full body sizing to sizing only at the butt ot heel section of the case. Cleaning cases to remove powder residue and range dirt ia all that is needed, generally accomplished with a reasonably clean wrag or towel. Obsessing on shiny cases does nothing but make you feel good the case knows nothing.

Neck sizing gets most by except when the sizing die pushes brass into the shoulder area now you have screwed a good set of cases. Watch the lube ring when you neck size never let it approach the neck shoulder junction.

Besides that loading is allot easier than shooting groups or that pathetic score game.

 

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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