Mosin Nagant 91/30 trigger job

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  • Last Post 11 May 2010
tturner53 posted this 23 December 2009

I searched around a bit and haven't found any information on this. I've developed an interest in the 7.62x54r and these type guns. Looking at old Fouling Shots I did find an article about shimming the triggers. Any of you had experience with these triggers. I don't want an aftermarket trigger. Thanks  Tim

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billwnr posted this 23 December 2009

I'd google Huber triggers and check them out. They seem to be a good trigger and it seemed even easy enough for me to do. I think that would be lots easier than fiddling with the existing trigger.

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RicinYakima posted this 23 December 2009

tturner53,

Search the net for Finn model 28/30's. These were the target rifles. Somewhere on one of the surplus boards, there are some great pictures of the Finn modification to these triggers. I had one and it had an excellent two stage trigger.

HTH, Ric

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amb1935 posted this 23 December 2009

A few months ago I found a how to mod article that involves tapping a screw that allows you to change trigger weight. I don't remember any specifics, but it apparently was a pretty good mod.

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35Whelen posted this 01 May 2010

  Here's a method I devised that works extremely well: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=50969>http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=50969

  35W

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giorgio de galleani posted this 01 May 2010

Please,fellow members ,you are dealing with a rifle designed in 1891,

It was obsolete in the First world war.

IT HAS NO SAFETY,that a sound man would engage and disengage with warm and dry hands.

And you talk of lightening the trigger pull?

That heavy  pull is the only safety you have!

 

Please do not take offence,but heed my  prudent advice DO LEAVE THE MOSIN TRIGGER PULL ALONE.

At present I have a 44 carbine,and I had used all the long models of Russian and finnish make.

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35Whelen posted this 01 May 2010

  As I'm sure you know, the safety is engaged by pulling the cocking piece rearward then rotating it counterclockwise about 1/4 turn.

And you talk of lightening the trigger pull?

That heavy  pull is the only safety you have!

  No offense taken, but what about the Finn 39's? They have nice trigger pulls.

  35W

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4060may posted this 01 May 2010

The Finns added a spring and a pin IIRC direct replacement for 91/30 if you can find one

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4060may posted this 01 May 2010

http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinM28.htm

page down and you will see the trigger assembly

I have a M28 Finn, and the trigger is excellent

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tturner53 posted this 02 May 2010

Buffalo George, I see the doctor in you coming out. After all those years in the emergency room you want to protect us from ourselves. I don't think it can be done. Nevertheless, your point is well taken, this is not a project for everybody. Probably most people should leave the triggers alone. I'm sure some here can handle it and be safe about it. ---new topic, it must be the first, the natives are restless, two rounds from close by just went over my house, heard the swish of the bullets going thru the air. I'm not being attacked, just a moron shooting his gun. Maybe they were accidental discharges? Kinda sounded like Lyman 311284s to me.Hard to say for sure.

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giorgio de galleani posted this 02 May 2010

Dear Turner,you have just hit the X ring.I am a safety extremist,and in the liability  delirium we are now the lawyer of the widow of the person that cought the bullet will slowly skin alive the naive  shooter who lightened the Mosin's trigger. 

I had for some time a Finn M39 and it's trigger is not similar to my Mauser 98 with Timney trigger.

I follow the teaching of Professor Paolo G.Motta:

IF the trigger pull is hard,just use more strenght in your trigger finger.

Putting humour aside,the Mosin so called safety is NOT the thing I can  safely manipulate with my gloves on in sub freeze temperature after a couple of hours ,sitting near the boar trails in the Appennine Hills. 

I prefer the hammer blocking safety on the recent Marlins,a device that I must thank for stiil having a right foot.

But I am tolerant,anyone can do as he likes better ,I issue advices,not orders.

And I bow my head to all the people who have more hand dexterity than me.

I would have liked to hunt my boars with a short Mosin with 200 plus flat points,but I'll stich to my Marlins,and you know the 444 holds legally 5 in the magazine and one in the chamber.........

 

 

 

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Ed Harris posted this 05 May 2010

"Three little piggies went to market!"

OOPs! I see there are FOUR

Nice job Giorgio!

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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Vassal posted this 06 May 2010

Awwh. Thats the cutest box of dead baby pigs I've seen in awhile.

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tturner53 posted this 06 May 2010

Looks like a lot of good eatin' to me! Buffalo, got any good recipes for boar? Serve with vino?

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6mmintl posted this 11 May 2010

Moison Trigger Improvements

The best way to improve the trigger on Moison Nagant M91/30, M38, M39, M44's, M53 and M91/56 is to:

Trigger and Trigger pin mod's: Drill out trigger pin hole in trigger and receiver ears with a .165 drill, then cut the drill tang off (Dremel tool) to length for a trigger pin, this will insure .001 tolerances and make the trigger pull more consistent in weight from pull to pull.

Polish with a SQUARE fine hard Arkansas stone, the inside and the outside of the trigger bearing surfaces and the inside of the receiver ears to insure smooth movement and to remove any drilling burrs.

Sear Spring: Too lower trigger poundage grind the back side (side viewed when assembled upside down) of the sear spring on a belt sander (being careful to cool and not burn metal) taking about .010 off (keeping thickness consistent/parallel) and then reassemble and test pull weight. Ideal weight is between 2.5 to 3.5 lbs for target shooting, add a pound if used for hunting.

Polish with a SQUARE fine hard Arkansas stone, the sear bearing surface (cocking piece bearing area) and square up the top surfaces (measure dimension parallel to bottom) for a sharp square edge.

Cocking piece: Polish with a SQUARE fine hard Arkansas stone, the sear bearing surface removing any indentations or galling, square up and polish top surface to improve bearing surface to a sharp corner.

Some firing pins and bolt bodies are loose fitting and when you pull the trigger the cocking piece moves downward and you get a mushy first stage. I weld a small 1/16” diameter or smaller bead where shown and then grind/polish down till the pin/cocking piece does not bind with the bolt body, this greatly improves the crispness of the first stage.

The photo is of the weld bead prior to filing/stone polishing to “restrict the loose fit between the under-size firing pin diameter to the oversize bolt body".

Disassemble the bolt, remove the firing pin spring and reassemble the bolt body and firing pin. Move the firing pin up and down to determine slack/gap between cocking piece and bolt body (measured with feeler gage) at tip of cocking piece and bolt body. Weld up/on a bead as shown and adjust/grind/polish the weld bead height to HALF the measured slack/looseness/tolerance you measured with a feeler gage and reassemble bolt.

Basically you are creating a stop/support for the cocking piece movement during the initial trigger pull first stage and forcing sear engagement to define total trigger travel instead of the firing pin/bolt body gap, and sear engagement defining Total trigger travel.

It allows for a more crisp consistent pull weight and release.

Finnish M39 trigger: The best way to get a really nice two stage trigger is to find/buy a Finnish M39 trigger and proceed with the above mods assembling and testing first and second stages.

Some trigger pulls may be too long and you can remove .010 off the top of the sear spring sear surface to reduce final stage/sear engagement and retest for engagement and pull weight.. Some may be too short and you may need a replacement sear spring but you may already know that before you start this whole process.

Final note: After the above mods most all triggers will now drag on the stock or trigger guard, you could bed the action forcing it into the center of the trigger guard while it cures, or you can open up the trigger guard trigger slot with a file or on a milling machine, this insures no trigger contact and you end up with a consistent pull and release.

I hope this helps unravel the mysteries of the Moison.

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tturner53 posted this 11 May 2010

Thanks 6mm, lot of good info. You mentioned a picture?

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