Lead Removal

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  • Last Post 27 June 2012
codarnall posted this 31 January 2010

No matter how hard I've tried some of my stainless barrels lead up.  I love my Lewis Lead Remover.  Hoppes I'm sure make a likeness or at least I've seen the bronze mesh they package.

What I discovered recently is that McMaster_Carr sells fabric mesh in sheets in stainless, copper, brass, and bronze.  You can pick the mesh density.  It's not not that dollar a square inch stuff you get packaged either.

Charlie

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Maven posted this 19 February 2010

Charlie,  A copper “Chore Boy"/"Chore Girl” scouring pad cut apart and wrapped around a worn or undersized bore brush is also very effective for removing lead.  They can be used dry or with your favorite bore solvent, and you can't beat the price. 

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dromia posted this 20 February 2010

A good soak with Kroil penetrating oil works well at getting 'tween the lead and the barrel. The lead can the be pushed out with a tight fitting patch.

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Duane Mellenbruch posted this 20 February 2010

codarnall wrote: What I discovered recently is that McMaster_Carr sells fabric mesh in sheets in stainless, copper, brass, and bronze.  You can pick the mesh density.  It's not not that dollar a square inch stuff you get packaged either.

Charlie Thank you for the source information.  I have one of those tools, but fortunately have not needed to use it for a long time.  I had no idea that you could even get different mesh sizes.  Good tip, thanks a lot.  Duane Mellenbruch  Topeka, KS

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daboone posted this 16 May 2010

What size mesh do you suggest?

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billwnr posted this 16 May 2010

I'd firelap the barrel and remove the reason for leading. If it's not rough edges in the barrel then it's undersized bullets as the reason for leading.

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shoot14me posted this 09 August 2011

The best lead removing solution I've found is to mix equal parts of hydrogen peroxide with white vinegar. Bronze brush the dry bore thoroughly to help with the oxidation of the leading. Plug one end of your barrel and position it vertically. Now pour the 50/50 mix down the barrel and let stand for 10 to 30 minutes. The mix will bubble and foam as it works its magic. You should see a dark gray liquid forming under the foam. This is the disolved lead. Depending on the severity of the leading you may need to repeat the soaking more than once. Pour the disolved lead solution out, brush the bore, and run a patch. Do this as many times as necessary to achive the desired results. When satisfied the bore is clean enough finish off with your normal cleaning and rust proofing methods.

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Harp posted this 10 August 2011

Wonder if the solvents lube the patches and brushes and allow them to just move past the lead without catching hold of it and removing it. I use true bronze wool and use real turpinetine to get tough lead out. Lube seems to be one of the biggest factors along with not pushing an alloy past it's limits.

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codarnall posted this 10 August 2011

Peroxide with cause rusting of the iron barrel. Vinegar will probably do more iron removal than lead what's more you've set up electrolytic action or battery between the lead and other metals. Still the LEWIS lead remover gets about 99% of the lead out in two swipes.

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codarnall posted this 10 August 2011

Maven wrote: Charlie,  A copper “Chore Boy"/"Chore Girl” scouring pad cut apart and wrapped around a worn or undersized bore brush is also very effective for removing lead.  They can be used dry or with your favorite bore solvent, and you can't beat the price.  I believe this! Charlie

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tturner53 posted this 10 August 2011

Dennis Marshal wrote an article in the 1993 Fouling Shot #103 about V/HP solution lead removal. His basic conclusion was stainless steel ok if not overdone, but no go on other barrels. Vinegar is acetic acid. I tried Shooter's Choice Lead Remover (a liquid) and got no benefit.

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curator posted this 03 September 2011

Real Copper Chore boy is hard to find. A lot of what Wallyworld and Dollar stores sell is copper plated steel. An excellent substitute is Bronze wool sold in most hardware store paint departments. Pull a section off and wrap around an old bore brush and it scrubs out leading like burnt off toast. Use it dry for best results. This also takes off minor rust without taking off the blueing.

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codarnall posted this 03 September 2011

http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/senese/101/redox/faq/activity-series.shtml

Fe is far more reactive than Pb in acid.

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CB posted this 03 September 2011

I too have come to prefer mechanical lead removal methods over chemical means, however I do really appreciate my old “Foul-Out” for getting every last nook & cranny clean. I don't use it as much any more, since I've learned how to prevent most leading anyway.

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Heavy posted this 05 September 2011

Leaded 357 barrel solution. 4 grains of unique with tumble media corn cob on top compressed load. Step outside shoot into the ground. Problem solved.:cool:

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edtilfordsr posted this 27 June 2012

How often do you guys clean your rifle during a match? Every 10 shots, every 20? My rifle leads up within every 8 to 10 shots.

Ed

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edtilfordsr posted this 27 June 2012

My home range “Big Souix Rifle and Pistol Club” has closed down for an unknown time period. Where else could I practice in the Sioux Falls SD area until the reopen?

Ed

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onondaga posted this 27 June 2012

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=1339>codarnall:

After you get the barrel clean, try using Johnson's Paste Wax. Wax the bore with a fluffy swab then buff the bore with a clean fluffy swab. If that is not enough, Mild polishing may be in order. Link to Bore Polishing:

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_topic.php?id=8364&forum_id=63>http://www.castbulletassoc.org/viewtopic.php?id=8364&forumid=63

You will not need any abrasive cloth if you do this procedure  to your bore.

The first shot in a very clean but un-waxed barrel sometimes leads the bore no matter what your bullet size or lube is, then more lead will stick. The waxing of the cleaned bore can very well prevent the start of leading if your bullet fit is good and your lube is adequate.

Just don't kid yourself if you haven't slugged your bore correctly and you don't shoot bullets at least .002” over G to G slugged diameter.

Also be very aware that stainless barrels are a much softer metal than Chrome Molybdenum barrels and stainless can be damaged much easier with bronze mesh. Copper mesh should be a lot safer in stainless bores.

My first recommendation would be bore polishing at this point. I hope you have read my post on bore polishing with a Hoppe's Bore Snake and Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover.

Polish then wax the bore, then the bore should love cast bullets  (that fit). If a stainless bore is not gleaming slick, make it that way. You will be happier.

Others may disagree, I do have commercial experience with electro-chemical etching/polishing. It does leave the surface stripped of hard shine from shooting or polishing. The naked open metal will allow lead to stick again. Restore the shine by the method I described in my post link above and wax the bore before shooting cast bullets.

Gary

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