Mold Mallet Question

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  • Last Post 31 December 2011
Uncertain Tex posted this 06 May 2010

I am about to wear out my beloved mold mallet..I suppose that's the point...it's like a rubber sanding block.... its suppose to wear out ...but out in the dark space of the infinite knowledge of the great casting alchemists...anyone got a decent substitute that won't due any harm to my beloved mold collection :dude:

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Notlwonk posted this 06 May 2010

I've used various hickory hammer handles for striking and heavy leather gloves for twisting the sprue plate. All depends on the alloy and number of cavities.

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JetMech posted this 06 May 2010

Tex, after reading what some of the more experienced casters had to say, I've given up on beating my molds. After 20 years, I've seen the light and changed my evil ways. Now, I open the sprue plate by hand (gloved). The sprue plate can be openned sooner and never a torn bullet base! If you have arthritus, a short handle can be attached to the sprue plate. In any case, give it a try. I think you'll like the results.

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Dale53 posted this 06 May 2010

Dollar Bill wrote: Tex, after reading what some of the more experienced casters had to say, I've given up on beating my molds. After 20 years, I've seen the light and changed my evil ways. Now, I open the sprue plate by hand (gloved). The sprue plate can be openned sooner and never a torn bullet base! If you have arthritus, a short handle can be attached to the sprue plate. In any case, give it a try. I think you'll like the results.

Good for you!! My “knocker” is only used when I have to stop a minute and the mould cools off. It is a 1” round piece of Delrin. It works beautifully.

Dale53

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gnoahhh posted this 06 May 2010

I use a gloved hand also, but my knocker is a piece of dense curly maple that started out life about 1 3/4"sq.x12"long 40 years ago. It's still as long but only about an inch square now!

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mike morrison posted this 06 May 2010

what $BILL said. i started casting in 1961 at that time i got a rawhide mallet. i still use it when needed. don't think it can be worn out. m

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hunterspistol posted this 07 May 2010

      Tex, you can get a mold mallet from Midway USA, product # 317-430, for 11.95. They are even open weekends. I find it convenient to call them and have someone figure shipping and order total for me. 1-800-243-3220 or http://www.midwayusa.com/>http://www.midwayusa.com/

   I've about used up my leatherworking mallet, softwood giving out already. Recently I found Lead Bullet Technology molds, they make the mallet almost useless. These premium molds are so precision that it takes the work completely out of casting. Sounds to good to be true, it isn't.

     Ron

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Joe B. posted this 22 May 2010

Hunterspistol--does Midway carry the Lead Bullet Technology molds & are they available in most popular calibers? :D:cool:

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Dale53 posted this 22 May 2010

I'm not “Hunterspistol” but...

LBT bullet moulds are sold direct:

http://lbtmoulds.com/>http://lbtmoulds.com/

Right now, there is an LBT group buy going on the Cast Boolit Forum:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=80609>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=80609

This “Group Buy” is rather unique as you can order the LBT bullet mould of your choice (either rifle or pistol) and still get a serious discount.

FWIW Dale53

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hunterspistol posted this 22 May 2010

   LBT molds are only available from Lead Bullet Technology and Veral Smith, they're a custom mold.

http://www.lbtmoulds.com/>http://www.lbtmoulds.com/

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mtgrs737 posted this 24 May 2010

I went to a rawhide mallet (hammer) after years of using wood of many forms. I only wish I would of gotten the rawhide mallet sooner, it works beautifully. I would not cast without one. You can buy them new on the internet but I got mine lightly used for less than half the new price. The head on mine is about 1 3/4” across the face and about 3” long. They have smaller ones and they would work just fine. Good luck!

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Dale53 posted this 25 May 2010

The Cast Boolit Forum “Group Buy” is authorized by Veral Smith.

I have several of his moulds and they “are as advertised"...

Dale53

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Tom Acheson posted this 25 May 2010

I use the gloved hand method also. But if needed, a rubber hammer is used. The kind of hammer used to tap on wheel covers on a car tire wheel after fixing a flat.

Tom

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argie1891 posted this 25 May 2010

if there was a vote taken i would vote for the leather mallet. they work gread and dont mark the mould. i actually am on my second one. the dog chewed the first one. joe gifford aka argie1891

if you think you have it figured out then you just dont understand

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CB posted this 26 May 2010

Dale53 wrote: I'm not “Hunterspistol” but...

LBT bullet moulds are sold direct:

http://lbtmoulds.com/>http://lbtmoulds.com/

Right now, there is an LBT group buy going on the Cast Boolit Forum:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=80609>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=80609

This “Group Buy” is rather unique as you can order the LBT bullet mould of your choice (either rifle or pistol) and still get a serious discount.

FWIW Dale53

Actually Dale that group buy is also on this forum and in the Fouling Shot!

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CB posted this 26 May 2010

hunterspistol wrote:    LBT molds are only available from Lead Bullet Technology and Veral Smith, they're a custom mold.

http://www.lbtmoulds.com/>http://www.lbtmoulds.com/

Partly true Hunter... I run the group buys for Veral and I think I am the only other person authorized to sell his molds in such a fashion.

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Dale53 posted this 27 May 2010

Jeff; I first saw the Group Buy on Cast Boolits, so I went on “auto pilot” when I mentioned it. I am a member and have seen it in the Fouling Shot, also, as you mention.

Didn't mean to lead anyone astray...

Dale53

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tturner53 posted this 27 May 2010

1"x1"x12” stick wrapped with duct tape works for me. The tape reduces the wear and tear. I cut the sprue as early as I can without smearing, don't have to hit it very hard, more of a sudden push than a smack. Casting with gloves on doesn't work for me, too clumsy as it is.

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chasw posted this 07 November 2010

Reading this thread make me realize I too have been beating up my molds for years, hopefully with no ill effects.  When I started bullet casting, I already had a mallet of the kind used with wood chisels.  It has a 10” wooden handle and a yellow plastic head about 2.5” in diameter.  The head is not soft like rubber or rawhide, but it definitely does the trick in opening the sprue plates and coaxing the bullets from the mold blocks.

I always wait until the alloy has completely solidified before knocking off the sprues.  To do otherwise invites unwanted smearing on the plate.  With a 4-holer mold, I tap-tap-tap the end of the plate gently until they start to break free.  Then I hold the mold over a padded drop zone and whack the head of the hinge pin on the mold handle a few times until all the bullets drop free.

Am I being too rough on my molds?  They all seem to be doing well in spite of the abuse.  Should I switch to something with a softer head like rawhide? Thx - CW

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grouch posted this 07 November 2010

A 12-14” piece of old shovel handle will last for years. Actually I open my molds by hand too. Grouch

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hunterspistol posted this 07 November 2010

:coffee Chasw, I do the same on my Lyman and RCBS molds.  It's not really abusive, just what you do with catalog order iron molds.  The LBTs we are talking about are very good premium molds, they weigh less (aluminum), are better vented to fill out easier, and take a lighter touch using a different type of sprue cutter.  You'd just have to try one.

Ron

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