Bullet lodged in barrel

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  • Last Post 20 July 2010
Pete Voss posted this 21 June 2010

My anticipated Allied/Axis boltgun match this morning came to a abrupt halt with my second sighter shot which was a squib load. The bullet lodged about halfway down the barrel-- I tried to knock it out with a borrowed M-16 type cleaning rod but lacking a hammer couldn't budge it. I stuck around after withdrawing from the match and got lots of advice on how to get it out. Wood dowel, brass rod, or 1/4” steel rod with plenty of lubrication were all suggested. I thought that I might chamber another charged case (maybe with about 8 gr. of 2400) and shoot it out but nobody agreed with that. It was a 314299 sized .310 cast of 50-50 Lino-range lead and the gun is my 1917 Enfield. I'm baffled as to how the uncharged case got by me as I've adopted the habit of checking all my cases after charging by dropping a marked pencil into them. I had thought that preventing a double charge was my real concern but was sure that I would have picked up on a no-charge as well. One thing--I had to seat these bullets deeper for the 1917 than I do for my '03 and they sat for a day in a hot car in the sun. Is it possible that lubricant (a combination of beeswax, toilet ring wax, and candle wax with a bit of lemon oil) could have melted and caused the squib? Any help will be appreciated. Pete

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JSH posted this 21 June 2010

DO NOT USE A WOOD DOWEL. Don't ask........... Brass or steel is your best bet. Get one as close to bore size as pssible and wrap in tap if you are worried about it. Jeff

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CB posted this 21 June 2010

One other thing to mention When you go to tamp it out use a pushing type strike on the steel rod instead of a sharp brisk strike. You risk the chance of mashing the bullet tighter into the bore with a sharp strike.

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JetMech posted this 21 June 2010

Pete, all of the above, but soak it in Kroil overnight before you tap it out.

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Pete Voss posted this 21 June 2010

One other thing my fellow shooters at the range disagreed on that I forgot to mention--should I try to tap the bullet out toward the muzzle or back toward the breech? Pete

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LWesthoff posted this 21 June 2010

which direction would have the shortest travel?

Wes

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ubetcha posted this 21 June 2010

I agree with DO NOT USE A WOODEN DOWL.And also don't ask.Learned a lesson the hard way.I also agree with Jeff

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cityboy posted this 21 June 2010

I had the same thing happen to me a number of years ago. The gunsmith brazed a 1/4” drill to a steel shaft and then necked a 270 case down to something a bit larger than the 1/4” rod.

The head of the case was then drilled out to accept the drill. The purposer of the necked down case was to provide guidance to the drill.

The case was inserted into the chamber, and the drill was able to drill a hole into the stuck bullet reducing the radial pressure on the stuck bullet.

The bullet was then easily tapped out. I still have the bullet. I hope you can follow this. If not, send me a PM and will try to clear up any confusion.

Jim

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jppr26 posted this 22 June 2010

ive had this happen a few times i used a steel rod and taped it out which ever was shortest, no soaking in lube just held the gun on a solid surface and taped. And by the way the wood dowel, BAD idea, i can see it splintering already and jamming in my hand, ouch.

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DAMRON G posted this 22 June 2010

i doubt it was uncharged.a primer will not get a bullet farther than maybe into the throat. Most of the time stays in the case.I was trying to launch a soft finger seated lead bullet into throat to measure nose/body engraving and couldn't do it with primer only.it took abut 2.0 of Bulls eye and a tipped muzzle and it made it out the barrel through the shop roof though!!Try it, it will surprise you.Even a fed 215 wont launch a lead bullet with decent neck tension and no crimp out of the case.

I never believed the squib by melted lube before.But my neighbor had 357 mags in his car in 100 deg heat for a week or better and he had misfires and low velocity shots.He pulled  bullets and about 2/3 of the charges were gobbed up powder balls.

I have intentionally tapped short lead bullets trough my bores with a brass rod,works fine as long as it has a bit of lube on it.

George

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JetMech posted this 22 June 2010

DAMRON G wrote: it took abut 2.0 of Bulls eye and a tipped muzzle and it made it out the barrel through the shop roof though!!Try it, it will surprise you.LOL.    :idea1:   I don't need those kind of surprises, George!

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tturner53 posted this 22 June 2010

You'll put your eye out.

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Pete Voss posted this 23 June 2010

Thanks for all the input, guys. I did do the Kroil soak and with a steel rod and judicious use of a heavy hammer it came out easily. No harm done, but I am leery of the rest of the rounds in that batch. I will pull the bullets of several of them and take a hard look at the charges.

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giorgio de galleani posted this 26 June 2010

I keep a collection of aluminum rods of various calibers  and lenghts in my van,that I use when I forget to put the powder in all of my cases.

I pound them once with a two pounds mason hammer.

I never clean my cast bullet bores,so they stay well greased all time. 

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tominct posted this 27 June 2010

If you want to give them a quick check weigh the loaded rounds on your scale and if they loaded with the same cases, powder charge and bullets they should weigh within 4 or 5 grains of each other. Then pull the lighter weight rounds down and weigh the charge. It could save time and effort. Been there myself.

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leo367 posted this 11 July 2010

What works by a lodge bullit is a case full rifle powder like 4895 or 3031 . In the neck a dacron wad. Fire in safe direction and the bullit is out the barrel. I have seen it works. 8 grs 2400 is not enough´. 16 grs is better.

cast367 to Pete Voss

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giorgio de galleani posted this 12 July 2010

I think that I may dissent from this idea of dislodging a bullet from a rifle barrel.

It is against all I have read in reloading literature in the past 42 years.

Load density,fillers, barrel rings and so forth.

My method is safer.

I made a mess last week setting up my Dillon Machine and loaded some 375H&H cast bullets without powder.long 300 grainers by Veral Smith sized at 379.

I just got an 8mm steel rod,wrapped it with thick paper adhesive tape,car body painter masking tape,to protect the bore interior.

For shorter pistol bullets an aluminum rod would be  enough,a 300 grainer 379 bullet as a long bearing lenght.

Slide it carefully from the muzzle until it made contact  with the stuck bullet,cut it three inches longer than the muzzle and let him have a two pounds mason's hammer.

PS Now you Orange fans ,must make a Kommando raid in Germany,capture the octopus and eat it.

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Pete Voss posted this 12 July 2010

Yes, Georgio--a duct tape wrapped steel rod is now part of my shooting kit when I go to a match or just to the range for practice. Pete

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cityboy posted this 12 July 2010

When I need to push something out of a 30 cal barrel, I use a 1/4 in diameter rod with “bushing” on the rod at suitable locations. The bushings are made from masking tape wrapped around the rod.

Jim

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Webley posted this 20 July 2010

I have never stuck a bullet, at least not yet, but I have learned to be prepared.  I keep a one piece coated steel cleaning rod in the trunk. 

I have also slugged many a rifle barrel with oak dowels.  The trick is to saw them in small sections, like 6-8 inches.  Never splintered on me...at least not yet..>

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Ed Harris posted this 20 July 2010

Best method is the Brownell Squibb rod threaded onto the Dewey cleaning rod. The .32 revolver size fits well in all but the very tightest .30 cal target barrels. Works in almost all .30s and .303s as-is. A slight spin polish with 240 grit emery cloth may be needed to provide a drop fit in the tightest < 0.299 bores.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1251/Product/SQUIB_ROD>http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1251/Product/SQUIBROD

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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