I have had good luck Teflon patching 45-70, I am going to try it for the 303 as well.:cool:
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- Last Post 11 December 2010
I have teflon taped bullets from the 45-70 down to the 22 calibers. It gets harder as you go down in caliber and UP in age! I have had great success with MOST calibers. In the 7mm I taped bullets for the 7TC/U, 7 BR and even the .280Rem. I tried them with and without gas checks. The 30-30 and 30-06 did very well with teflon also!
Would you folks have pics of Teflon taped boolits? I must admit I thought it impossible for Teflon to work and am wondering how it can and does work. It must surely work on a different principle to paper patching?
I asked about this some time ago and was told, “Don't do it!"
Two reasons were given: (1) Burning teflon makes toxic fumes. (2) Burning teflon leaves nasty stuff in your bore.
Search the archives and decide.
(1) Burning teflon makes toxic fumes. (2) Burning teflon leaves nasty stuff in your bore.Those statements are quite true. However, teflon won't burn in the bore. There is teflon thread tape and then there's 'teflon thread tape' and they're not the same - one has a higher teflon content than the other. Perhaps it's the carrier used that does the deeds?
.303 guy - I take it this is a brand deal - different quality - what brand do you recommend?
It may not be the same stuff but I use teflon patching for all my black powder rifles and it works great. I've seen better accuracy, easier seating of the bullets and easier cleaning.
I have NO idea where these rumors start. As I said ,I've teflon taped LOTS of bullets in different calibers for YEARS. Not one incident of “nasty stuff” in the bore. The teflon tape can USUALLY be found a few feet or yards in front of the firing point/bench! This makes ME think it AIN"T burning in the bore. The tape I use is the standard thread sealant3/4 to 1” type. White in color and on a plastic spool. I rarely try this any more as I have carpal tunnel and some arthritis in my hands.
The problem with teflon in muzzleloading and BP ctg. guns is haivng to wipe the bore. As far as I'm concerned, having to wipe the bore to maintain accuracy or to load means the bullet/lube/powder charge needs work.
My Sharps and older RB would hold accurcy for a minimum of 20 shots, the most fired in a single 'load's string - no accuracy loss and 1 1/2 MOS or better groups.
I hold to Paul Mathew's writings on this - if you can't fire at least 10 shtos, then push all the fouling from the bore with a single DRY patch from the breach, the lube needs to be changed - or more of the same lube is needed. The Beeswax/Vaseline perscription 60/40 worked in my rifles. - .45 3 1/4” with up to 580gr. PP bullets and grease balls and .45/60 with 506gr. Schmitzer. grooved lubed bullets.
Daryl, I don't know whether toxicity and flammability (scorching) varies by brand of teflon tape, but that tape DOES vary in thickness. E.g., the very thin plumbers' variety may scorch more than the thicker ones made for gas fittings. The latter I think comes in different colored rolls, indicating different thicknesses (pink & yellow locally). The thicker ones are probably easier to work with as well.
Maven - I'm not concerned about burning the tape and possibility of minute poisonous gasses resulting. I'm sure first or second hand cig. smoke is worse. that what would come from a teflon patch.
Point is, I won't wipe between shots, with a ctg. gun or a muzlelaoder as it isn't necessary for close to MOA grouping - at 100 meters(200 yards in the .50 Alaskan).
If teflon patching requires wiping, then it isn't for me - however, shooting normal paper patches wiped with 60/40 mix I've mentioned, as well as a lube ball about 3/16” thick of the same lube allowed up to 20 shots in the .45 3 1/4” with 122gr. 2F - and all the fouling wiped out with a single dry patch. The .50 only used an RCBS 550gr. grooved lubed bullet, same lube.
I suspect teflon patching would allow the same thing, accurate and no wiping when using the same lube ball. It is easy to test - one merely has to load up 10 or 20 rounds and shoot them, then run a patch through the bore & have a look see. If there is fouling or leading, more lube or a different lube is needed along with the patching.
I have not shot these loads at 100F or hotter, so canot comment on the cleanliness of shooting at those extremes. Wiping may be necesary. I'd rather sit in the shade with a cool one if it's that hot.
So when you gents are using teflon tape it must be only a couple wraps on a cast bullet not of a paper patch design instead of bullet lube?
I am also very interested in how you patch with the teflon tape. Please explain.
I measure the length needed by rolling a bullet on an old “mouse” pad, Then cut several lengths and set them aside. I take a bullet and a length of tape, place the tape on the pad. Be carefull as the tape is THIN.Then roll the bullet up the tape and snug it down with your fingers. I USED to be able to do about 15/20 bullets a minute, now 2/3 is average due to arthritis and carpal tunnel. Aso the tape sticks to my hands more now. This process is not much different than Paper patching. I've tried it with and without additional lubes getting varying results from great to abysmal. Bore condition is important .
Is the notion here to stop leading etc? Sounds like a great idea but for ones and two's only I would guess. Charlie
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