150 gr .312" load for 7.62x39

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  • Last Post 12 March 2012
Popgunner posted this 29 February 2012

I recently received three new molds from Graff's one of which was the Lee 155 gr .312” spitzer style that was said to be useable in the 7.62x39. Anyone got a load using red dot, unique or 2400? I have the second edition Lee manual & the Lyman cast bullet manual among a dozen others but can't locate a load in this caliber for a 155 grainer. My goal is to make my SKS actions function with this load.

I also plan to use these cast bullets for loads for my 7.7Jap, .303 Brit & Mosins but I have plenty of load info for those. Just the 7.62x39 is stumping me.

Anyone?:D

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Buzzard Bill posted this 29 February 2012

I could not get my Yugo to cycle with 2400 and changed to 18 gr. of reloader 7 and rifle cycled perfect and was accurate sized to .310

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Popgunner posted this 29 February 2012

Very good to know Buzzard

thanks for the quick reply!

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onondaga posted this 29 February 2012

I went a different route than using fast burning pistol powders in the 7.62X39 Rooskie. My rifle is not a semi-auto but is a Remington Spartan single shot. I get about 1MOA accuracy at 50 yards with 2 loads suitable for deer hunting. The bullet I use drops 152 grains using Lyman #2 alloy from a honed out to drop .313” Lee C309-150-FN. I size and check bullets at .312” and tumble lube with 45:45:10 Recluse. A friend of mine gets similar results in a CZ bolt rifle with H332 powder at an even higher velocity, but I have not tried H332.

There are a number of rifle powders that will safely load at or near 100% case capacity for the 7.62X39 using a 155 grain bullet and operate a semi-auto reliably. Those powders will give much better accuracy than pushing pistol powders to operate a semi-auto action. The low volume/ high pressure pistol powders in the X39 just do not come near the accuracy potential of the cartridge in my opinion. Near capacity loads of slower rifle powders will operate your action just fine. The powder cost savings with pistol powders in the X39 generally costs a lot in the accuracy department.

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Popgunner posted this 29 February 2012

Thanks onandaga I wondered if rifle powder would be useable in this load for the longer pressure curve. Thanks you guys for the help. I also found the thread here in the cookbook column talking about just what I was asking about where Ed Harris gives guidance using 2400. This site is pure gold for me. Much appreciated. I'll post my results soon:D

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onondaga posted this 29 February 2012

Popgunner:

Yes, Ed Harris designed the basis of the 2 Lee molds for the X39 and his data and theories are very good. The idea of neck sizing the X39 for more AA2230 or H4895 is mine and has worked very well for cast bullets in the cartridge with up to mildly compressed loads. The H332 or even Rel #7 is on the danger line in the cartridge at 100% capacity but can be worked up carefully as AA2230 or H4895 or various powders in that burn rate/load pressure zone.

My original reason for selecting the X39 cartridge for a sporting rifle is that several powders can be selected to yield capacity loads for optimum ignition with a very low variance in velocity numbers to gain accuracy and break 1MOA accuracy with terminal ballistics similar to the 30-30 Winchester with cast bullets for hunting.

Gary

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Popgunner posted this 01 March 2012

That is a beauty group:D

 

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onondaga posted this 01 March 2012

Thanks Popgunner,

The Remington Spartan rifle is imported from Russia and is an inexpensive utility rifle that is built like a tank with a 10 pound trigger pull. The trigger took considerable work to get down to 3 pounds pull and I dressed the rifle up by refreshing up the crude checkering, finishing the raw wood and adding a home made leather leather cheek piece and shell holder to the straight, non-Monte Carlo stock for scope use. The best features of the 8.5 pound rifle is the substantial weight and a chrome lined 24 inch barrel that really likes cast bullets.

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Popgunner posted this 01 March 2012

Wow, thanks for the info & I realy enjoyed your photos. I was unaware of this particular rifle & will have to do more research on it. Buzzard Bill recomended Reloader-7 for powder & i'm going to try that & I also have lots of A-2230 & H-4895 on hand.  I cast 100 qty WW bullets-155 gr Lee .312 last night & gave them a tumble in the LLA. Reading here on the site, I may have problems getting enough pressure to seat GC's with lubed bullets but i'll try. Should have some cartridges loaded tonight. I have two type 56 chineese SKS rifles that i'm sure won't come close to your groupings but i can't wait to see what they'll do. I like the way you have your rifle set up. The 25 degree temps we're having here now may open up my groups a little what with my teeth chattering. ha

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Popgunner posted this 09 March 2012

My first results are making me optomistic. Loaded 12,13,14,15 grains 2400 with no signs of overpressure. 14 & 15 grain loads operated the bolts on my two Norinco rifles. Loads with RL-7 18,19,20 grains all operated the actions. Whoo Hoo!

Accuracy will need more testing. My regular 100 yard range is snowed in so I went to a local 25 yard indoor range. No chance to set up my Beta Chrony for fps. Targets shot had a 2” bull & standing at 25 yards I was able to keep all shots within the 2” bulls with the original iron sights. I had to aim to the top of the bull with the sights on the 300 yard “battle” setting.

I was glad to be able to use info from here on the site to get me a good start. I need a bench to sit at & I'll do some fine tuning when it gets warmer here in Utah.

Quite a nice feeling to use some of the wheelweights gathered for next to nothing. Now i've got about all my rifles shooting cast bullets:D

Thanks you guys for all your help! Brad

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onondaga posted this 11 March 2012

Popgunner:

Brad, good going. Have fun and post some targets when you get your rifles dialed in.

Gary

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Buzzard Bill posted this 11 March 2012

Popgunner

Looks like our work it done here Tonto!!! Have fun shooting your cast bullets, nothing like the satisfaction of making something your self and getting it to preform.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 11 March 2012

onondaga wrote: Thanks Popgunner,

The Remington Spartan rifle is imported from Russia and is an inexpensive utility rifle that is built like a tank with a 10 pound trigger pull. The trigger took considerable work to get down to 3 pounds pull and ....

Gary

Where do I start on doing that on mine?

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onondaga posted this 12 March 2012

TRK:

 Remove the butt stock and barrel assembly.

1) Remove the trigger return spring. Narrow the working area of this small leaf spring 20%,  no more, measure carefully. Polish the spring end round and when you replace it,  place a washer or more under it to shim it up about 1 MM. Do not bend the spring. I narrowed mine with oil and a fine Arkansas stone by hand, -no  power tools, they will draw the temper out of this small, narrow spring and ruin it. I had to shape 2 small shim  washers also. Don't over elevate the spring with too much shimmimg---THE SAFETY WILL NOT WORK IF YOU DO. It should still contact the point where it was originally. Moving the spring point right or left may greatly smooth trigger pull creep from jagged to smooth if you find the just right spot for it by trial and error.

2) Remove the hammer spring by cocking the hammer past full and place a needle in the hole of the spring rod. Then the rod with spring will jiggle out. Next I used a large nut and a vise to cock the spring and remove the needle. Shorten the spring only 1 (only one) turn.  and polish both ends of the spring. Putting the spring back is difficult, it has to be compressed and a needle put in the hole again. Then replace the spring and over-cock to remove the needle. Use care not to loose the small white cartridge in chamber indicating nylon part, It can fall out with the hammer spring out of the action.

3) Last I do what is called an “in situ” sear polishing. Replace the barrel assembly temporarily for this procedure. Get a Snap Cap dummy round in your caliber. With the Butt stock still off the gun I put fine polishing paste on the sear, 400 to 600 grit. Cock and dry fire about 200 times so the firing pin hits the Snap Cap. Keep the sear swimming with compound paste during all that dry firing. I used a small brush.

Flush the action out well with mineral spirits and air blasts several times to get out compound. This will also get out the factory grit that is STILL in there since the rifle was made also! There is a lot. Re-lube the action with Slick 50, work it and blast it out. Lube again and re-assemble.

I will not guarantee this will work for you and do not know your skill level, but this is what worked for me. Be very careful, you could ruin both springs and your sear and trash your rifle, then you will have to get new parts from Russia.

A gun smith could follow this method but will likely charge you $150.00 or more  if he will work on the gun at all. It is a Russian firearm and Smithies are very concerned about getting new parts from Russia if they make an error.

Keep me posted with a PM please.

NOTE: I was warned that after this modification the rifle will not like to fire ammo with the hard thick skinned Russian primers, but I only use CCI primers and have had no misfires from light firing pin strike.

I did not attempt to shorten creep but I made the creep smooth and got the pull down to 3 pounds. I would not stone and re-shape the sear to shorten creep, that is beyond my skill level.

Last edited 11:46 PM , March 11, 2012

Gary

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