RELOADING DIE LOCK RINGS

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  • Last Post 03 August 2012
joeb33050 posted this 13 June 2012

RELOADING DIE LOCK RINGS

LEE lock rings don't lock onto the die. All other lock rings do.

The split kind with an allen screw that tightens/clamps the split, don't work well for me. I find it unweildy to turn the allen screw while holding the die and lock ring together. Also, there are no flats on these split lock rings; so if the ring is locked onto the die, I need water pump pliers and a rag to loosen the die/lock ring from the press.

Other lock rings come with or without flats to accept a wrench. Lock rings that have set screws going into the die threads work well. I have used steel wool, plastic whittled bits and lead shot in the set screw hole to keep the set screw from buggering the die threads. Some lock rings have a brass set screw. These brass set screws are a solution that doesn't work. The brass set screws get deformed.

Hornady Sure-Loc rings are split, allen wrench-tightened, with flats for a wrench. These may be best currently available, but that allen screw is a pain when it's on the back of the press.

My ideal reloading die lock ring would be steel, with flats for a wrench, and two-180 degree apart-plastic tipped or just big plastic set screws. Two set screws eliminates the set-screw-on-the-back-of-the-die problem.

Any thoughts? joe b.

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Michael K posted this 13 June 2012

Hi Joe, Might try slipping a 7/8” rubber O-ring on the sizer under the lock ring. The lock ring will need to backed of a bit to compensate for it. The O-ring will compress slightly between the top of the press and the lock ring has the die and ring is screwed down on it. It will allow about a 1/8 - 3/16 of a turn of squish while still keeping the die from moving. It also allows the die to float a bit as the case enters the die and in theory helps the die and case center up better. Once the desired die setting is obtained I set the lock ring, mark the top of it and the die body with witness marks that corespond with witness marks on the top of press so the die can be returned to the same place with each use. My marks are at 12, 3 and 6, but any position will do. Red nail polish works well and scraps off without to much trouble in the event settings need to be changed sometime later on. I picked up idea from a couple of books written by high-power shooters, o-rings from ACE, and the polish from my wife's stash, so far she hasn't asked me if I had seen it anywhere. Hope this helps. Michael.

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Maven posted this 13 June 2012

"My ideal reloading die lock ring would be steel, with flats for a wrench, and two-180 degree apart-plastic tipped or just big plastic set screws. Two set screws eliminate the set-screw-on-the-back-of-the-die problem."

Good idea Joe, but the “plastic” (delrin, nylon) set screws are likely to break off in the lock ring.  Why not use widely available 6-32 bolts,  which can easily be shortened to suit with a Dremel and cut-off wheel or a razor saw?  Btw, they don't have to be flush with the lock ring to function.

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CB posted this 13 June 2012

I don't understand the big deal about the lock rings causing tension against the press. Yes, it does require effort to remove the die after the first setting, but that's the only time you have to do it. After that first time, it'll never lock up again, unless you readjust it.

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Lee S. Forsberg posted this 30 July 2012

Hexagon lock rings with no set screw work best for me. Steel, that is. Lee rings used upside down work, but they are not as good as steel.

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onondaga posted this 30 July 2012

Hello Joe,

I like the Lee die lock rings. This is because I use the Lee directions and don't try to make the Lee rings act like another brand. I adjust the die, then I hold the die firmly with one hand so it doesn't move and snug the lock ring down compressing the Neoprene “O” ring. The Lee Dies stay where I lock them and no tools are needed to  re-adjust the die if I need to.

Of course they can be overtightened with a wrench and be difficult to unlock after that. We really should expect that and know better. I stay within the die design recommendations the best I can and not over-tighten the lock rings.

Sure, under tightened Lee lock rings will let the die adjustment wander. That is just a signal to me, that I did not tighten the lock ring properly.  The Lee Die Lock Rings work reliably for me.

Lee Die Lock rings can be overtightened repeatedly and overworked enough  to damage the Neoprene “O” rings so they no longer work to lock the die.  Now really, whose fault is that? That is just not following directions.

Damaged “O” rings that won't lock the Lee Dies well is a common complaint. Lee is polite enough  not to say that is user abuse. They are overly kind and offer dirt cheap steel replacements including “O” rings at 3 for $1 and replacement “O” rings separately at 50 cents. Lee also offers billet aluminum lock rings at 3 for $3.98.

Gary

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r1kk1 posted this 31 July 2012

Howdy Joe,

My situation is a little different. I would love to have some very thin cross bolt lock rings for my Champion press while using Lee bullet sizing dies. My reducer body is almost the same length as the threaded portion of the body of the die. Dave at CH4D made me a 3/4” ram extension drilled through to allow primers to fall out. Works great for my situation and I can use my old Lee universal decapping die with anybody's ring.

When I would informally drag race cars or motorcycles, we used to index plugs to orient the electrode. Would this work for you so the Allen head is not behind the press?

Take care,

r1kk1

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r1kk1 posted this 31 July 2012

Howdy Joe,

My situation is a little different. I would love to have some very thin cross bolt lock rings for my Champion press while using Lee bullet sizing dies. My reducer body is almost the same length as the threaded portion of the body of the die. Dave at CH4D made me a 3/4” ram extension drilled through to allow primers to fall out. Works great for my situation and I can use my old Lee universal decapping die with anybody's ring.

When I would informally drag race cars or motorcycles, we used to index plugs to orient the electrode. Would this work for you so the Allen head is not behind the press?

Take care,

r1kk1

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jimkim posted this 31 July 2012

My ideal lock rings would be two thinner steel rings with a rubber o-ring between them. They would be of the same smaller diameter as the Lee rings, and would use a spanner type socket to tighten them.

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EdS posted this 31 July 2012

I've been reloading for 50 years now, and much prefer the split-ring style of lock ring on all of my dies. It's really no problem to set up and adjust each die, then run the lock ring down snug to the top of the press. Now, holding the lock ring and die in alignment, back the die out 1/8 - 1/4 turn and THEN tighten the screw clamping the lock ring to the die. Hope this helps. -Ed

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joeb33050 posted this 31 July 2012

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/187839/rcbs-die-locking-ring-7-8-14-thread

Read the reviews. This ain't the answer.

Is there anyone out there who would do a little machine work on a ring as an experiment? Thanks; joe b.

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onondaga posted this 31 July 2012

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=3>joeb33050:

I read the reviews. If the problem complained about is really your only complaint also, there is a simple help yourself solution. Put a lead bird shot pellet ahead of the set screw in the threaded hole. Could you be happy with that? it will solve the problem complained about in the customer reviews.

You don't need a complicated solution and a manufacturer's design change. I have tried this years ago and the pellet works fine. You may have to replace the lead pellet  once in a while but I believe most of your disappointment would be gone.

Gary

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 01 August 2012

joeb33050 wrote: RELOADING DIE LOCK RINGS ... My ideal reloading die lock ring would be steel, with flats for a wrench, and two-180 degree apart-plastic tipped or just big plastic set screws. Two set screws eliminates the set-screw-on-the-back-of-the-die problem.

Any thoughts? joe b.

Might be worth a try. I'll have to dig out one of the RCBS ones - I really like them - D&T for a 2nd set screw.

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CB posted this 01 August 2012

For that matter, locate nylock screws to replace the RCBS lock nut screws. You might need to re-tap the hole, but that's no big deal.

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jimkim posted this 01 August 2012

Have any of you ever tried using teflon tape and just snugging it down? I use a Lee Classic Turret press, most of the time, so once a die is set it pretty much stays in the turret.

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onondaga posted this 01 August 2012

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=1422>jimkim:

The Disks for the dies on the Lee classic turret are why I bought the press and I have one for each caliber. WE made a good choice.

Gary

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CB posted this 01 August 2012

FWIW, Joe could use 2 7/8 jam nuts from a hardware store on each die too. Screw the first one down intil it lightly contacts the press, then screw the second one down on it and tighten the two against each other to lock them into place. This would be bulky & inconvenient, and probably wouldn't be possible if using LEE dies since they're shorter than everybody elses.

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Sonny Edmonds posted this 01 August 2012

Personally, I favor the split type locking rings. I think the best I have are the Forester, but there are others that work great, too. Maybe this little change in your tools would help? T-Allen Wrenches. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=t+allen+wrench&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7386491844&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=603498019840144492&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_i1rleo9e2_b>http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=t+allen+wrench&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7386491844&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=603498019840144492&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pdsli1rleo9e2b

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CB posted this 01 August 2012

I use Hornady lock rings myself.

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joeb33050 posted this 02 August 2012

I use lead shot, have used steel wool, paper, thread, ??. A, not the, point is that it may be time to have the mfrs make a good lock ring that works for all/most applications. joe b.

onondaga wrote: http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=3>joeb33050:

I read the reviews. If the problem complained about is really your only complaint also, there is a simple help yourself solution. Put a lead bird shot pellet ahead of the set screw in the threaded hole. Could you be happy with that? it will solve the problem complained about in the customer reviews.

You don't need a complicated solution and a manufacturer's design change. I have tried this years ago and the pellet works fine. You may have to replace the lead pellet  once in a while but I believe most of your disappointment would be gone.

Gary

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onondaga posted this 02 August 2012

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=3>joeb33050:

"A, not the, point is that it may be time to have the mfrs make a good lock ring that works for all/most applications."

OK., I see Joe, you are are frustrated that you cannot manipulate and control the manufacturers  to produce items that you deem perfect for you. Gee,  that is too bad, Sometimes you just can't have parts the way you deem perfect. You have been given good suggestions and they are never good enough for you.

I don't believe it is fault of the manufacturers  and the members here that have tried to help , Joe. You want to make a point, and not accept a solution that is not your own. Help yourself and make your own rings may be your only answer if you cannot impose your will on the die manufacturers.

They have considerations in manufacturing that are important to them to maintain control of design and cost the way they see fit. They have accepted that some people disagree with them.  Some companies are very manipulated by consumers and it only takes a few written complaints for them to change design and tooling. You could try that route. I'd prefer that you keep your efforts away from Lee Manufacturing. I am a happy customer of Lee Die Rings and they work for me the way they are designed to work.

Gary

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 02 August 2012

Lighten up Gary. Joe is persuing an improvement - mayby not what anyone else has complained about BUT it is legitimate - getting access to the locking setscrew from any position. Who knows, sales folks get ahold of it and will sell it as a Primium Lock Ring.

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onondaga posted this 02 August 2012

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=97>TRK:

No, I disagree, there are plenty of good lock rings that work perfectly well when used as designed and following the manufacturers directions, Joe is not happy with any of  them as an individual. I don't believe the fault lies with the manufacturers at all.

Gary

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joeb33050 posted this 02 August 2012

onondaga wrote: http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=97>TRK:

No, I disagree, there are plenty of good lock rings that work perfectly well when used as designed and following the manufacturers directions, Joe is not happy with any of  them as an individual. I don't believe the fault lies with the manufacturers at all.

Gary

I greatly respect people like Bernard.

What was life like without wheeled luggage? Well, in a word “painful,” notes Briggs & Riley CEO, Richard Krulik. A sentiment shared by then-president of U.S. Luggage, parent company of Briggs & Riley, Bernard Sadow upon returning from Aruba carrying two heavy suitcases. At that moment, Sadow noticed a skid nearby and had an inspired connection. Sadow turned to his wife and noted, “That's what luggage needs: wheels."

By October of 1970, the first wheeled luggage prototype rolled out ”€ literally. But it wasn't until a year and a half later that a visionary VP at Macy's demanded his buyer place the first order. Customers bought in like crazy. The rest is history.

Maybe some day someone will think of a way to shine gun bores. joe b.

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Sonny Edmonds posted this 03 August 2012

When I pursue an improvement, I do it myself. But then, I don't get uptight that somebody doesn't make it for me. ;)

I suppose that being married, being a Father, Grandfather, and Great Grandfather MIGHT have taught me to be a tad more compromising and flexible. But then, I'm just 62 so I might be a young smarty pants still. :D But that is just a thought.....  /images/emoticons/134.gif

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