Lee Factory Crimp Die and cast bullets

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  • Last Post 01 September 2008
Shuz posted this 25 March 2007

Do any of you folks who compete and do well in the CBA matches utilize a Lee Factory Crimp Die on your match reloads?

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CB posted this 27 March 2007

Shuz,

I have never noticed any CBA competitors using a Lee Factory Crimp Die or any other crimp for that matter. Can't imagine why you would want to crimp for rifle competition but I may be missing something.

John

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RicinYakima posted this 27 March 2007

Why go to all the trouble to make “perfect” bullets, weight sort them, lovingly put them into match conditioned brass, then mash them up with a crimp die? Ric

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CB posted this 27 March 2007

I believe this is a method that some Cb Shooters use to size their bullets.

Those of us that shoot rifle competition may think this is absurd but I have heard of some success stories using this method by many casual shooters.

Just because it is not the way we do it, doesn't mean the way we do is the only way..

Did I say that right?

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CB posted this 28 March 2007

Jeff,

Jeff: Thanks for eliminating the double post.

Your comment “Just because it is not the way we do it, doesn't mean the way we do is the only way.. Did I say that right?” was said just right.

And yes, Ed Harris and others like to size pistol loads after bullet seating and make a good case for it.

However the original question from Shuz was: Does anybody “compete and do well in CBA matches” using the crimp die?

I believe the proper answer is still no.

John

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CB posted this 28 March 2007

I agree, I haven't seen anyone use a crimp die in any of the shoots I have been to.

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Shuz posted this 28 March 2007

Thanks for the replys! However, unless you ask someone, how would you know if he used one, if he loads before the match as I do? Maybe all the folks who shoot as poorly as I do, use 'em? Well, I loaded up a hunnert using the die crimping ever so lightly and we'll see what happens Saturday. Stay tuned!

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CB posted this 04 April 2007

I crimp for my 41 Swiss for tube mag.

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454PB posted this 06 April 2007

I don't shoot competition, but I do own some of the Lee FCD's. The problem I have with them is that if you use a non standard, oversize cast bullet, the die will actually size that bullet to “standard” size. As a for instance, some of us use .432” cast in .44 magnum. If you do, it will size the bullet to .430” or so.

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Dale53 posted this 09 March 2008

I have the Lee Factory Crimp Die for a number of pistol and revolver calibers. I think the trick here, is to use the “tool” when it benefits you and don't when it doesn't.

When I was shooting IPSC with the .45 ACP I wish that the Lee FCD had been available. That die insures that there are no unwanted bulges in the case that might interfere with feeding. It would have saved me PILES of time.

I am a fan of the .32's (S&W L and .32 H&R) and have several revolvers for these cartridges. My chosen bullet (a custom 100 gr Keith style) out of the mould is .314". In my Ruger SP101, that bullet is .001” too large for easy chambering. If I use the Lee FCD as the last die in my Dillon 550B, then the cartridges work in ALL of my revolvers (not just “work” but also shoot well). I have since procured a .313” die for my Star lube/sizer and and that works also. I still use the Lee FCD to insure that all of the cartridges will work in all of my revolvers (I also really like the crimp adjustment on this die).

If I had a revolver that required abnormally large bullets, then the Lee FCD would not be a good “tool” to use (even tho' the Lee Die is a good piece of gear it is not necessarily a “one size fits all").

When I was shooting Black Powder Cartridge Rifle Silhouette, I used a Lee expander die with a custom insert to get exactly the case neck tension that I preferred. Any expander die would have worked, but the Lee requires no threading on the expander stem - it is much easier to make on a lathe and whether you do it yourself or pay someone to do it, it requires much less effort and time to get exactly the dimensions that you prefer.

Dale53

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Scott Merchant posted this 09 March 2008

Shuz

I do utilize the lee factory crimp die but not for Match loads. I have the Lee crimp dies in most if not all my lever action and pistol rounds. 

Scott

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giorgio de galleani posted this 11 March 2008

There are two types of Lee factory crimp dies,the  bottleneck die that only crimps and the pistol dies that has a Lee style  roll  crimp for revolves or taper crimp for autos ,both resize the loaded cartridge.

I crimp revolver and auto for better functioning .and crimp very lightly rifle rounds,just to iron the belling of the case.

In a HB varmint 308Win mod 70 I found no difference in accuracy comparing crimp with no crimp.

Of course you have to have a light hand,like a maid tuning an antique violin.

The exception is heavy loads in a 45/70 and 44 mag revolver.

 

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AMMOe posted this 12 March 2008

I have a few rifles with long throats that benefit from the use of the Lee Factory Crimp die. One 303 in particular got the groups cut by 40% using the crimp die with a very hard bullet. It just depends... ~Andy

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CB posted this 13 March 2008

Shuz,

Guess you're still getting feed back. I never crimp anything for match shooting and have never seen anybody use the FCD for match shooting. Even with jacketed High Power Match jacketed loads I never crimp, or do my jacketed BR Match friends. All of this is for single-loading bolt-action type rifles. Handguns and magazine feeding guns may be different..............Dan

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AMMOe posted this 13 March 2008

I crimp many of my jacketed loads with varying degrees of success and never to a detriment. I have found that the crimp aids the loads that are comprized of components that have the greatest lack of uniformity. In the 22 Hornet, where brass is notoriously non-uniform, the crimp seems to compensate. My CZ Hornet was good for 3/4” at 100 until I started crimping, then it started shooting in the .3's on a regular basis woth all of it's favorite loads staying under .4. I believe that is what worked on my .303 loads. The crimp added pull weight and made the pressures more uniform.

That being said, I don't think there is any place for it in BR shooting.~Andy

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CB posted this 13 March 2008

Andy,

Ya, I've heard of a couple other comments like yours about better success with a crimp. At first thought it brings a question to mind as to what is the problem (or situation) that something is wrong with the load that crimping improves the accuracy? Not that crimping in itself improves accuracy, like you said there is no place for it in the BR match configuration.

Are you using the roll-crimp in the seating die or the Lee FCD with your 22 Hornet? I shoot mine a lot with 35gr V-Maxs with 13.5gr Lil'Gun and CCI Mag primer. What load are you using? I'm loading out all the way to hit the lands, so I'd have to seat deeper and crush the powder (its at the top of the case now), so I'd have to change a lot to go to crimping...............Dan

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AMMOe posted this 13 March 2008

Dan, What are you shooting for a rifle?? I have been a frustrated Hornet shooter for 30 years and owned every kind of Hornet you can imagine -custom and factory. I have finaly settled on the CZ as being the best over all. (I dumped a Anschutz to buy my 527 American after seeing my son's in action.)

My loading proceedure is to trim then bell the case mouth slightly in a Lee Universal Expander die. I then load the same load as you except I use a 35 grain V-Max seated to magazine length and crimped with the FCD. I use small pistol primers exclusively. (these helped with accuracy as well)  I use H-110 and 1680 with equal accuracy.

I think that the crimp just insures even pressures. With some of my 1680 loads, the spread was only 13 fps total.~Andy

This is a pretyy typical cloverleaf. I have my reloading room wall papered with groups like this!

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CB posted this 01 June 2008

Most rounds I use some kind of crimp on them, match ammo, I give them just a touch with the taper crimp die.

The thunder boomers in a magazine and tube fed rounds I give them all a crimp. That is to avoid problems recoil messing up a bullet by loosening it from the cartridge case.

Jerry

 

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snuffy posted this 01 September 2008

I have factory crimp dies for every handgun round I load. I have several for my rifles, but not all of them. As stated, there are 3 distinct types of FCD. For auto rounds, they taper crimp, for revolver rounds they roll crimp, for rifle there's no sizer ring and they use a collet type crimp. Post sizer carbide rings in both auto and revolver handguns, remove the irregularities or bulges, but don't “size” like a #1 die does. They are made to saami standard outside case diameter or factory minimum. Of course if you put a .432 boolit in a 44 mag case, it will make contact with the case, thereby sizing the boolit.

If you don't use a crimp of some kind, how do you remove the bell? That would be the question concerning loading cast in ANY brass case. I can't imagine shooting them with the bell still present. For rifle, I use the FCD to ONLY slightly contact the mouth to remove the belling. Unless I'm loading to where a crimping grove is, then I put a more substantial crimp on them.

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CB posted this 01 September 2008

For me, the seating die generally takes the “bell” out. I am not sure is recent dies for pistols do that, mine are at least 20 and some 30 years old.

I do taper/roll crimp ammo, mostly for the consistency and feeding.

Jerry

 

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