Making Reloading Tools

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  • Last Post 02 August 2013
Chargar posted this 28 December 2012

The serious bullet caster, handloader and gun loonie will run up against the need for a tool, that isn't made or will cost allot of money to have one custom made.

The above mentioned guy, at some time will consider the purchase of lathe for his reloading shop. One of these fantastic machines and a good drill press, will make all kinds of wonderful things we need. They will last several lifetimes, if cared for and in my opinion are necessary tools for reloading.

Below is a pic of a hand bullet seating die patterned after the Wilson die. I needed a bullet seating die that would seat .314 cast bullet for my military Krag rifles. I took the chamber end of a highly pitted Krag barrel and turned it into a die. I took a .315 chucking reamer and rand it down the bore to create a bullet chamber for my large bullets. It works to perfection.

Old barrels are free for the asking and I have made cast bullet seaters for 30-06, 8 X 57, 30-30, 30-40 and 303 British. With these chamber type seating dies, you also get the significant accuracy benefit of straight line bullet seating.

Below is also a pic of my 1947 9 X 18 Logan lathe. No fancy tool posts or quick change gear boxes, just old school American iron.

You don't have to be a highly trained machinest to make tools like this, just a little common sense and an understand of how the lathe works and how to run it.

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Chargar posted this 28 December 2012

OK..now here is the die.

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biddulph posted this 28 December 2012

thank you for posting this, I was about to ask if anyone had some info about lathe use.

If you could post some step by step stuff along the lines of ” An idiots guide to lathe use” I would find that most useful!

cheers James

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Chargar posted this 28 December 2012

For many years South Bend Lathe Co. published a smallish booklet entitled “How To Run A Lathe". They are out there as reprints or originals for not much money. Lots of drawings and instructions. All you really need to go along with your brain.

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biddulph posted this 28 December 2012

Hi Charger,

thanks for that. I found it in PFD on the web. Great little book published in 1966.

Cheers and thanks

James

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pat i. posted this 29 December 2012

Your lathe looks to be in excellent shape....I like it. The bullet seater came out very nice. I have an old Sheldon that looks like it's been through two wars and an insurrection but if you do everything up by the headstock it's not bad. I've used it to fit a bunch of barrels, cut moulds, and make tools. Not going to win any beauty contests but she's all mine and payed for.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 29 December 2012

Well kept machine. Thanks for the pix - my take-away is the use of the cookie sheet. (for one of my SMALL lathes)

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pat i. posted this 29 December 2012

Now you guys have me convinced I need a small lathe I could play with in the house....thanks a lot!

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 29 December 2012

I paid $150 for this one - nearly new.

Do a little research. ALL (or almost all) of the chinese ones are made at the same plant, marketed under 20 different brands.

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RicinYakima posted this 29 December 2012

Used Chinese lathes are dirt cheap, many buy them, but don't want to put the money out for the tooling, the real cost. Look around, as they are out there!

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pat i. posted this 29 December 2012

I think I might just have to do that. Thanks. Sure wouldn't mind having that Logan though.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 29 December 2012

dang!   my first lathe was a 9 inch logan !  1968 year   ... i  added a palmgren crossfeed mill vise and made lots of things with it ....  

nice job on the seater.


oh, that reminds me ...if anybody wants some stainless stock, i have a genuine p.o.ackley barrel ( 0.25 ) ....totally bore damaged ...i will cut it to your needed length and ship for postage ...  i think p.o. would like this barrel converted to reloading devices ( g ) .

email me [email protected]

ken

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Chargar posted this 29 December 2012

When I bought the little Logan, it came with all kinds of tooling including a Palmgren milling vise, two chucks, tail stock chuck and lots of other stuff. As you know, the cost of the tooling can quickly exceed the cost of the lathe if the tooling didn't come with it.

My Logan was in the basement workshop of a man on Long Island New York where it had been since he bought it in 1947. He took very good care of it. He died in 1990 and I bought the lathe from the estate (Ebay) in 2000for $600.00 with all the tooling including the original manual.

The motor is an old cast iron motor that is about 90 years old. I replaced the chord and bushings and it purrs like new. I took it to a electric motor repair place for the spruce up and the old guy who ran the place offered me a new motor in trade he was so taken with the old motor and how well it ran.

I knew I was taking a chance buying a machine tool I had not test ran, but I got lucky. When it was set up, I set up a 12” test bar between centeres and took a cut. After I moved the tail stock over a smidge, I took another cut and the bar held a .0005 tolerance the entire length.

That lathe is a little jewel.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 29 December 2012

RicinYakima wrote: Used Chinese lathes are dirt cheap, many buy them, but don't want to put the money out for the tooling, the real cost. Look around, as they are out there!

Agree, Rick, buying a used whole setup is often MUCH the best way to go.

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pat i. posted this 29 December 2012

Chargar wrote: When I bought the little Logan, it came with all kinds of tooling including a Palmgren milling vise, two chucks, tail stock chuck and lots of other stuff. As you know, the cost of the tooling can quickly exceed the cost of the lathe if the tooling didn't come with it.

My Logan was in the basement workshop of a man on Long Island New York where it had been since he bought it in 1947. He took very good care of it. He died in 1990 and I bought the lathe from the estate (Ebay) in 2000for $600.00 with all the tooling including the original manual.

The motor is an old cast iron motor that is about 90 years old. I replaced the chord and bushings and it purrs like new. I took it to a electric motor repair place for the spruce up and the old guy who ran the place offered me a new motor in trade he was so taken with the old motor and how well it ran.

I knew I was taking a chance buying a machine tool I had not test ran, but I got lucky. When it was set up, I set up a 12” test bar between centeres and took a cut. After I moved the tail stock over a smidge, I took another cut and the bar held a .0005 tolerance the entire length.

That lathe is a little jewel.

She's a beauty

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CB posted this 30 December 2012

Here is a pic of a project using basic lathe skills. This is a Lyman die holder for use in a 7/8 x 14 thread reloading press. I happened to take these pics at the CBA 2008 NT example is courtesy of Julian Cottrel who was a top shooter in the PRO class. The Lyman die had been modified to represent a very close dimensions of Julian's rifle throat.

By running a cast bullet into the die, it will taper down to the same dimension as the throat. The die does not have a stop at the end (top) so it cannot be used to 'bump' up bullet dimensions. I think Julian had a punch to knock the bullet out each time one is tapered into the die.........Dan

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CB posted this 30 December 2012

That is interesting, how did he secure the die in the adapter? And what is the aluminum piece with the oring for?

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pat i. posted this 30 December 2012

It looks to me like the aluminum piece with the o-ring is what was used to hold the die in the adaptor. Could be wrong though.

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CB posted this 30 December 2012

Yup, the aluminum bushing with the o-ring held the Lyman die in the 7/8-14 die. Here is another pic from a different angle for those interested in this neat gadget. The hole at the top of the htreaded die must have been big enough also to push out the sizing die...........

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CB posted this 30 December 2012

I see that the aluminum piece would hold the die in on the upstroke, but if he was driving the bullet out how is the die retained in the adapter, that is the part I dont see possible. I am not doubting that is works, I want to know how it works, or at least that portion of it.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 30 December 2012

maybe the aluminum piece also served to act as a knockout spacer ...and the oring gently keeps it in the die threaded body .

maybe ..

ken

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 30 December 2012

I can see at least two potential uses.

one would be to use as a push-through sizer

another would be to have a nose punch up through the bottom (set to a specific distance) and useable as a knock out punch - that would allow the H&I die to be used for sizing the NOSE of a bullet - to correct taper or to bore-riding diameter.

Great thought provoking picture!

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CB posted this 30 December 2012

I see what you fellas mean. I wish Julian was still around to explain it. It seems more logical to me that the o-ring was a stop. Run the bullet in.....grab the assembly dropping out.....turn the H-die around and back into the press and push the bullet out. A 2-step process.

I don't think Julian was set to use this as a hi-production process, but a way to get the right fit for his Savage he used in CBA matches. I remember him saying at the NT in Fairfax that he was also casting his own bullet design, the bullet looking like a modified nose off something like a 311284........

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Chargar posted this 30 December 2012

I have two different versions of home-made press mounted gizmos that hold Lyman/RCBS dies and they are both push through designs. The bullets are pushed through and pick off the top. No need to drive them back out. The next bullet pushes the one on top and so forth.

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CB posted this 31 December 2012

Chargar We are talking about tapering a bullet, not sizing. I can see where may have been lost in the discussion.

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CB posted this 31 December 2012

Here is a great reference book that is a help for any machinist, if not the bible for machine work. I have only used a very, very small bit of information among the huge massive amount contained in this book. I bought my Machinery's Handbook at a second hand store for $8 as the reference material is practically never outdated. I did an Internet search and see there are new editions offered for sale like $80, but I'm happy with my 1973 edition.:)......Dan

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CB posted this 31 December 2012

That's correct Jeff, Julian's die is a taper die and would have to have the cb backed out. Julian and I had been discussing using the modified H-die to form a taper on our bullets. I use my Lyman 450, but have broke both my handles but now have made reinforced handles. Julian wanted to show me what he had made for his reloading press.

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CB posted this 31 December 2012

Here is my lathe. It is a Grizzly 9x19. My buddy bought this new and played with it for a few years. I bought it from him for about half price and got all the tooling with it that he had accumulated. I use it to make Lyman style H-dies with a taper bore for pressing a taper on my bullets.

I turn the outside diameter to the same dimension at the H-die using 3/4” round stock. I then center drill the piece with an undersize bit and finish with a chucking reamer. I use a .299” for a .300” bore after polishing. Then I run a taper reamer or throating reamer into the die. Experimenting with the depth will give a reasonable depth to run the cb into the die from trial error.........Dan

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ReloaderNY posted this 02 August 2013

Mini-Lathe.com is full of info, also varmintal.com is a reloader who has lots of minilathe ideas. Worth a look for info and resources.

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