Any Handi Rifle Smiths Here

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  • Last Post 21 June 2013
mike morrison posted this 18 January 2013

Shooting my handi rifle today and i started getting light primer strikes several snaps would not fire the ctg. then the hammer would not cock unless i pointed the bbl up then it would cock. sometimes it would fire then not. then not at all. something insied is broken. what to look for. i have not disassembled it at this point. may tomorrow. any ideas??? m

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tturner53 posted this 18 January 2013

I have one with a similar condition. My best guess is a broken firing pin. 'Greybeard Outdoors' has a how to section in their Handi forum.

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mike morrison posted this 18 January 2013

firing pin is good. i think it has something to do with the part that keeps the transferbar engaged. will open it up tomorrrow to see what i can find. was hoping for someone who has resolved this problem. thanks. m

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Jeff Michel posted this 18 January 2013

Sounds like your striker/lifter assembly. Brownells should carry them or I used to get them directly from H&R. Fab yourself a couple of pins so you can reassemble all the fire control parts. You can use your broken part as a guide to fit your new part. It is not a drop in part. Not hard or especially time consuming. Have a good drawing and study it before you start. Install a new lifter spring while your in there.

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4060may posted this 18 January 2013

www.perkloafm.com go to downloads trigger work for Handi-Rifle pt.1 and pt.2 shows dis-assembly and re-assembly with pictures and hints

read disclaimer before attempting

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mike morrison posted this 18 January 2013

took the gun apart. nothing broken. reassembled tried to shoot - light strikes will not shoot with rifle primers, will shoot with small pristol primers. it is a .223. have a 20ga with a bushed pin so i changed bbl to the 20ga reciever and guess what. shoots everything. before anyone goes ballistic all loads are cast and light loads so pressure is ok for the sg action. changed the hammer spring to a wolf extra power and still no go. still looking for ideas to the problem. m

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Tuner posted this 25 February 2013

Oil that has dried out and thickened in the firing pin mechanism can slow down the action enough to cause misfires. The first thing I would do is to disassemble, inspect for broken parts and replace, thoroughly degrease and then lightly lube and see if the problem is resolved. You said you already went to a heavier main spring and if you are still having misfire problems you could have excessive headspace in the combination which you can check wit a set of feeler gauges. Open your action and place the thinnest (.0015 or .002) feeler gauge across the rear of the barrel and close the action. Then try to gently pull the feeler gauge out. Keep doing this until you have drag on the feeler gauge and lets say for this you got drag on a .004 thick feeler gauge. Now remove the barrel from the action, remove the extractor and insert a round in the chamber. Place a steel rule or a straight edge across the cartridge head and see if it sticks up above the end of the barrel, is even or below the end of the barrel. Let's say that the cartridge is below the end of the barrel which can be measured using the feeler gauge again and you are able to get a .004 feeler gauge in there. Your head space in this example is the .004 + .004 or .008 which is excessive and could definitely contribute to misfires. This situation can be irritated by the cartridge being shot; .35 Whalens had misfire problems because of the relatively limited shoulders and the generous chambering that was done in some single shot actions.

If you do find that you have excessive headspace you might want to contact H&R and see what they say about correcting the situation. If you are a reloader you might try a quick fix by runing your brass over an expander ball several calibers larger and then adjust your sizing die so that you can just get a .0015 feeler gauge between the base of the cartridge and the breach face and see if that corrects the problem.

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Tuner posted this 25 February 2013

Oil that has dried out and thickened in the firing pin mechanism can slow down the action enough to cause misfires. The first thing I would do is to disassemble, inspect for broken parts and replace, thoroughly degrease and then lightly lube and see if the problem is resolved. You said you already went to a heavier main spring and if you are still having misfire problems you could have excessive headspace in the combination which you can check wit a set of feeler gauges. Open your action and place the thinnest (.0015 or .002) feeler gauge across the rear of the barrel and close the action. Then try to gently pull the feeler gauge out. Keep doing this until you have drag on the feeler gauge and lets say for this you got drag on a .004 thick feeler gauge. Now remove the barrel from the action, remove the extractor and insert a round in the chamber. Place a steel rule or a straight edge across the cartridge head and see if it sticks up above the end of the barrel, is even or below the end of the barrel. Let's say that the cartridge is below the end of the barrel which can be measured using the feeler gauge again and you are able to get a .004 feeler gauge in there. Your head space in this example is the .004 + .004 or .008 which is excessive and could definitely contribute to misfires. This situation can be irritated by the cartridge being shot; .35 Whalens had misfire problems because of the relatively limited shoulders and the generous chambering that was done in some single shot actions.

If you do find that you have excessive headspace you might want to contact H&R and see what they say about correcting the situation. If you are a reloader you might try a quick fix by runing your brass over an expander ball several calibers larger and then adjust your sizing die so that you can just get a .0015 feeler gauge between the base of the cartridge and the breach face and see if that corrects the problem.

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mike morrison posted this 26 February 2013

Follow up after trying everything i could think of I called H&R (remington) and the rifle was sent back and returned to me in two weeks. Problem FTF their check FTF. returned list of what was done. In short all parts in the frame were replaced. My observation is the new firing pin is longer. the lifter assembley is longer, the mainspring is stronger. The trigger pull might be a little better. I have fired 100 rounds since returned all worked fine. those that would not fire before returned fired without exception. Gun fixed, I'm happy. I read this description somewhere and i believe it fits this. The lifter assembly (reansfer bar) is too short (the one replaced is longer) as the hammer falls it starts to retract and is pushed from the hammer strike kinda like a watermellon seed being squeezed between the forefinger and thumb. thanks to all for your ideas and help. m

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 26 February 2013

mike morrison wrote: took the gun apart. nothing broken. reassembled tried to shoot - light strikes will not shoot with rifle primers, will shoot with small pristol primers. it is a .223. have a 20ga with a bushed pin so i changed bbl to the 20ga reciever and guess what. shoots everything. before anyone goes ballistic all loads are cast and light loads so pressure is ok for the sg action. changed the hammer spring to a wolf extra power and still no go. still looking for ideas to the problem. m

The rifle may be OK. Check that the .223 brass has not been full length sized too much.

(That happened to me with a 7-TCU in a Ruger #3.)

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TomG posted this 26 February 2013

Mike,

If you see this problem developing again, The first thing want to look at after making sure there is the correct firing pin protrusion and the hammer spring is Ok is to try some different brass. Preferably some that is new or fired in a regular chamber with a full power load.

One of the problems with using a small case like that with a small shoulder is developing excess headspace in the chamber from the shoulder setting back.

These guns have very strong hammers and springs and the impact of the firing pin on the rear of the case is enough to drive the case forward into the chamber and set the shoulder back. If you don't develop enough chamber pressure to blow the case shoulder forward again, it will finally move the shoulder enough that the firing pin can't reach the primer any longer. This can happen very easily with this gun and a small .223 case.

I once did a test with a Springfield 03-A3 and 30-06 brass. I set up a test stand to measure actual headspace of the cases on a layout plate and vernier height gage. I snapped the case in the chamber once with a fired primer and got a loss of .004” with just about every hit from the firing pin. At about -.025” it stopped when the firing pin couldn't hit the primer any longer.

A 223 shoulder is much smaller than that of a 30-06 case and can set back even faster if you have a heavy hammer and hammer spring. If anyone can't believe this can happen, take the time to test this and see for yourself. You'll be surprised.

Bottom line, if you shoot very soft cast bullet loads at low pressure, this can become a problem .

Tom Gray

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mike morrison posted this 26 February 2013

thanks Tom, since the gun is now working i will use several cases and give this a test. reload and shoot the same cases several times and check length. the only way i have to do this is with a dillon case length guage. do you think i can get good enough information with this using dial calipers to measure the depth in the guage. hope this makes sence. bullets are lino and velocity is about 1900 fps. do not know the pressure. mike

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TomG posted this 26 February 2013

Mike, I'm spending the winter in my 5th wheel trailer out in the desert west of Tucson. So, I'm not able to look at the cartridge dimensions prints I have at home. Also, this laptop doesn't have a copy of the program “Quick Load” working on it. If I had it, I could calculate the peak chamber pressure with info on your load etc..

I did some research once on the minimum chamber pressure to stretch the cases back out and it is right in the same range as some cast bullet loads. 20,000+ psi to 30KPSI was the range if my fuzzy, old brain is anywhere near correct.

I went to the Dillon site and looked at the pic. of the gauge they sell. It looks like it may be a chamber cut in it to nominal headspace dimension for a 223. You could probably use the depth gauge end of your indicating calipers to measure the difference between the gauge end and the end of the ctg. case. You should be able to measure some change as the case shortens. I wouldn't set my sizer die down to hit the shell holder as it may add to the problem.

You might try comparing your cases and see how much they vary. Also how they compare to the minimum dimension that the gauge says is acceptable. See if you can correlate this to the cases that misfire. You could make the same test I did by using an unfired case with a fired primer in it. Just keep snapping the hammer on the same case and measuring H.S. and see if it's changing. You may already be so short that the firing pin can't hit it very hard already. I'd use a new case to try this test that isn't work hardened and already short.

Headspace is an actual dimension (length) that goes from the base end of the case to a datum line the bisects the case on the shoulder at a right angle to the center line. It's usually a diameter on the taper of the shoulder that is a convenient .375” etc. or so. It's not really the clearance between the case and the chamber. There are two H.S. dimensions given for each cartridge. One for the chamber drawing and one for the cartridge case. The typical tolerance to stay inside SAAMI specs. is usually a nominal length plus or minus .004” for commercial guns. But,it can vary. “GO” headspace gauges are usually ground to the nominal length.

Let us know if you take this any further and what you find.

I brought a stock AR carbine out with me in Nato chambering and am shooting the 55 gr. RCBS 22 bullet in it with 15 grs. of Rel. 7. It shoots pretty good once in a while. The twist is 9” and is waaaay too fast for this bullet. I'm getting 2120 fps. out of a 16” barrel and it works the action fine. Bullets are cast real hard of monotype metal to handle that fast twist without stripping. I never get any leading or plug up the gas system. When I get back home I'll make up a barrel in 12” twist or slower and a very short throat in 223 chamber where I can get the bullet to touch the rifling and still go through the magazine. I'm getting 1 1/2 to 2 MOA out of it now. It's fun to shoot. I bought it for a bug-out gun in case there's a really big calamity and I have to deal with any serious social problems that might arise.

Prepper? Tom

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 26 February 2013

as they say ... i haven't thought the following thru very well, but maybe ...a standard seating die could be useful to determine the relative headspace ( base to shoulder stop distance ) ...difference as you keep dry firing a case ...


there is a reason to use a commercial go gauge to play with just this type of situation ... Forster gauges don't cost too much ...

when i was doing more chambering, i insisted on setting headspace with a standard gauge ... i only bent that if a customer had a thousand or so of fired cases from his old chamber... then i still explained possible problems.

you can never have enough trivia ... ( g ) ken

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TomG posted this 26 February 2013

Ken,

I'd use a seater die.  Sizer dies are too tight and too hard on the fingers!!! 

Seriously, I've made my own headspace gauges for CB wildcats I've designed. To set the headspace on them, I just took a block of metal squared the sides, drilled and reamed a precision .375” hole in the top of the block. Some case use different datum line diamaters depending on the size of the bottle neck case.  May be less for a .223.

Set it on a surface plate, stand the case perfectly upright in the hole supported by the shoulder.  Measure from the top of the block to the end of the case and walla! you've got your headspace dimension.  Unless you harden the block, you've got to go real easy on the fine edge of the hole.  That's how I checked the 30-06 case in my little test. I've, on occasion,  made my own standard HS gauges that way too.  You can make it any dim. you want if it's your wildcat. 

If you're a poor, retired, public servant like me on a  fixed income, you gotta make your own stuff or else just keep putting more water in the soup.  <BG>

Tom

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Ed Harris posted this 26 February 2013

You might have a broken link assembly, which interconnects the transfer bar and thumb piece. If you are the original purchaser they will fix this free under warranty.

http://www.hr1871.com/Support/repairs.asp#map

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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mike morrison posted this 27 February 2013

See Post Number 9 m

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 27 February 2013

mike morrison wrote: See Post Number 9 m

That is of course the answer in THIS case. I'm glad Ed posted what he did as it occurs in other rifles.

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rojkoh posted this 21 June 2013

mike morrison wrote: Shooting my handi rifle today and i started getting light primer strikes several snaps would not fire the ctg. then the hammer would not cock unless i pointed the bbl up then it would cock. sometimes it would fire then not. then not at all. something insied is broken. what to look for. i have not disassembled it at this point. may tomorrow. any ideas??? m

Ask Ed Harris, he's definitely a Handy gun user..

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