bullet stuck bad

  • 5.6K Views
  • Last Post 10 May 2013
tturner53 posted this 06 May 2013

I'm trying to help a friend who has a cb stuck in his Yugo M48 collector grade 8mm from an attempt to slug it. It's wedged in with wood dowel remains. Won't budge using a brass rod and 4 lb. hammer. Would it harm the nice barrel in any way to heat it up enough to melt the lead inside? Thanks in advance for any help.

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
onondaga posted this 06 May 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=2514>tturner53:

Here is the way I have used to help a friend:

Drill a dowel or copper rod so you can epoxy a 1/8- 3/16” drill centered in the rod end. Hand rotate or chuck up the drill ended rod and bore completely through the bullet.  Then use your copper pounding rod setup  after soaking the bore with penetrating oil and  a 2 hour wait.

The hole through the bullet will give the bullet a direction to collapse inward instead of tightening in the bore when you use your pounding rod.

You may have to drill again and pound again, but you will get it when the bullet collapses inward;  it will come loose and slide on the oil.

Also, take the time to remind your friend he should have started with an immaculate bore, heavily greased the bore  then heavily greased the the PURE LEAD ball and he would likely have had no problem. Gunsmiths charge $100.00 for this slug removal  service.

Gary

Attached Files

R D posted this 06 May 2013

Well, I am not the smartest one around but I had a similar situation. A friends son in law reloaded some 30 carbine loads 110 gr soft point with what was to be 10 gr of 2400, it was in fact 5 gr.  My friend was a fair shot, not great and the small bullet from a Ruger Blackhawk did not show up on the target, (5 shots). When he went to reload he noticed a bullet in the barrel. It turned out that he had 5 in there. All normal actions failed to gain anything good. He ask me to get them out and I retried the normal things with the same results.

After thinking on it for a while I got a piece of steel brake/fuel line that would fit in in bore and just a little longer than the barrel. I took a new drill that would just fit in the tubing and brazed it to a fresh straight piece of steel about the same length as the tubing. I dressed the point of the drill as I would to drill brass and limit the feed. After a trial by hand to insure that the bit and shaft passed through the tubing without any hint of hanging on anything I chucked it up in the lathe and ran it at slow speed and drilled out the center of the bullets slowly. I pulled the bit several times to get the shavings out and to prevent binding. After getting through all 5 bullets I used a brass rod as large as would fit the bore and tapped out the jackets with ease. The Ruger survived with no damage and shot as well as ever even if the owner was worried quite a bit as was I. 

The info on drill points for brass is on the web in a far better display than I could do. I hope this helps you or someone else. It took me about 3 hours in the shop and I still have the bit and tube just in case I have another Ruger revolver to do. I see no reason why It could not be done with a slow drill and a padded vise just as easily or easier. You might want to prop up the barrel close to the end for a more stable position.  Good luck. R D

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 06 May 2013

tturner53:

Man O man, he does have a problem! Wooden dowels in gun bores be damned! I can't offer much to the point of your question, except to say that if the rifle is as nice as you describe,and if it were me, I would NOT heat anything. And after having been an amateur gun tinkerer for many years, I would swallow my pride and find the best gunsmith I could.

It is likely that after all the hammering, the wooded dowel is wedged just as tight or tighter than the bullet. and from what I know, will have to be drilled out with a special made fixture. James Howe describes this process in the second volume of his The Modern Gunsmith.

One thing he might consider, is to give Brownell's tech line a call. They have some qualified people that may be able to help. If nothing else, might could recommend a smith.

Or, I am sure that a couple of people that frequent this forum can offer more on your question.

Good luck

RD

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 06 May 2013

The other RD accurately describes the process that I was referring to. He was quicker on the draw than I.

RD

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 06 May 2013

Thank you all for the help. I don't have the shop or skills to try the drill out method. I feel a little responsible as I suggested the slugging but did not advise against using wood which I know from experience is a bad idea. He's new to cb shooting and did not know any better. It's off to the gunsmith for this one, it's a really nice all matching gun. This began because he pushed a lead round ball thru first and was getting .318” grooves, which I doubted could be right. It's clearly the original M48 barrel and is about 60 years too late to be .318". I'll post the outcome when it's settled.

Attached Files

JSH posted this 06 May 2013

I have about the same issue. K31 though. I got the bullet out but the dowel is still in the bore. I have since thrown away or destroyed every wooden dowel on the place. I now have steel and brass rods of the proper size for such chores. I will watch this thread for any good thoughts. Any one got a pet termite? Jeff

Attached Files

JSH posted this 06 May 2013

Sorry doubled up

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 07 May 2013

Next time use Kano Kroil to reduce adhesion of the slug and use a Brownell's Squibb Rod threaded onto your cleaning rod to tap out the slug. No dowels or other such nonsense. Having the right tool in your range kit ALWAYS is the only way to go. I use mine on somebody else's gun at the range approximately monthly.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/squib-rod-prod1251.aspx

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 07 May 2013

I keep several sizes of 18 to 24” long bits on hand - several wraps of masking tape every 6” or so keep it off the barrel lands/grooves. Once you drill the center of the bullet out it pushes out much easier. Often you can pick up an odd LONG bit at yard sales and flea markets for a dollar or two.

Attached Files

Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 07 May 2013

danger ...maybe ... here is what i have done the three times i have stuck a lead bullet .... i put a * pinch * of ffg black powder into a primed case and ... no wads, no grease cookie ... pointed the barrel up and set-er off ( shot it ) ...

one required two pinches ... we are talking PINCHES ... maybe doubling or tripling the pressure of a primer only ...

not advocating this method, just for discussion ... but it did work ok for me.

ok, flame suit on ...

ken

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 07 May 2013

All solutions refer to the stuck bullet but what about the remains of the wooden dowel that's split, mashed and wedged up tight against that bullet and bore?

RD

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 08 May 2013

I thought of trying to blow it out but was concerned about possibly bulging the barrel. The owner has left it with a good full service gunsmith. Hopefully I'll get a full report on how he clears it.

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 08 May 2013

That would be interesting, Just curious about these kinds of things, Might Learn something besides, Thanks

RD

Attached Files

Michael K posted this 08 May 2013

Hope all goes well. For what it worth there a few other stuck bullet situations out there that make this one look like an easy fix, so to speak.

http://saubier.com/showthread.php?t=17847&highlight=stuck+%2B+bullet

On the lighter side, being a round ball is more or less a big “BB", we could start a baby, I mean BB pool for Tim. How long to fix? How much to fix? Or, cut the barrel off, recrown, and call it good. :wow:

Attached Files

Wineman posted this 08 May 2013

Been there and done that. Ruined an average M1905 S&W M&P in 32-20 after sticking a dowel in the barrel. The drill (by hand) was the way to go but you need something to protect the barrel from a drill that moves off center. Hollow brass rod would have worked, brake line etc. Start small and work to larger and larger bits. Always make sure the bit can not get off axis. They make long bits called “aircraft bits” that work nice. I still have one if you need it (it does have a checkered past though).

Dave

Attached Files

R D posted this 08 May 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=82>R. Dupraz; The drill bit as I described above will remove any wood or soft metals and if necessary a standard drill can be set up for steel and the drill bit run in from the other end on some guns without removing the barrel. If the drill bit is brazed, welded straight the tubing will protect the bore from damage. If I had to drill steel I would want a very sharp bit run at a slow speed and with a very light feed pressure. The drill sharpened for brass will do a very good job on wood and produce fine shavings. I would not use any lube for drilling, I might add a penetrant after drilling but probably not as It would require special cleaning before driving out the remains of the bullet to protect the bore. After the bullet started to move and all trash is out of the bore a bit of lube to ease the bullet shell or jacket might be helpful. I dislike any grinding compound in my barrel that is not carefully controlled.

R D

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 08 May 2013

The above link reminded me of one of my brighter moments with a nice old Rem 700 7mm mag. Forced the bolt shut on a live cb round. The brazed on bolt handle will not stay put when clobbered with a 2x4. When the gunsmith saw it he asked me if I took the safety off before clubbing the gun like a baby seal. The new bolt handle didn't match real good so I gave the thing to my nephew. He sold it.

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 08 May 2013

Thanks RD for the reply. In How's book, he explains this process, only using a solid rod and then center drilling it for a drill. I always thought that the use of a hollow tube would be a better way as it would eliminate any drill concentricity problems. Useful info to file away just in case.

R. Dupraz

Attached Files

R D posted this 08 May 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=82>R. Dupraz; Well my experience noted happened in the mid to late 70's in the  boston mountains of NW Ark. I have always been a gun nut and a mechanic so when asked to help I just used what was handy to avoid a round trip of about a hundred miles  and what I learned from working on various machines. Poor boys got poor ways but sometimes they work well. I had no illusions that my way had not been used before. My main concern was that I not make the situation worse or damage the revolver. Good friends and good guns are hard to find.

R  D

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 08 May 2013

Some of the finest examples of the American long rifle, both in workmanship and design, came from the southern mountains. Another passion of mine. And these were built by self taught common people that made due with what they had on hand at the time. Quite fascinating to me. Unlike some of the highly ornamented guns built by the famous gunsmiths, these rifles were elegant in their plainness. Much like the Hawken.

A great example of American ingenuity, selfreliance and craftmanship.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 09 May 2013

It's done and good to go. My friend got his M48 back, under $100 labor. He didn't ask how they did it.. Next we'll do a chamber cast, he's going to use the gun in cast bullet silhouette matches. Thanks again all for your interest and suggestions.

Attached Files

Wineman posted this 09 May 2013

You might want to supervise, or at least make sure the chamber has a nice oil film and there is a patch at the end of it. I would be a pain to get that stuff out of a barrel..>

Dave

Attached Files

R D posted this 09 May 2013

Shucks, I wanted to know how he did it but at that price it was less than 2 hours in most shops. My mind fails me again, can't remember the name. Most chamber cast metal will melt with a hair dryer.  Good luck and good shooting.

R D

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 09 May 2013

If anyone is interested I'll post progress reports on the 8mm project. This cartridge just don't get no respect. The guy is much younger than typical cb fans so this opportunity serves multiple purposes for me. Encourage a newbie and enjoy my hobby too. The gunsmith did say it took two hours and also slugged the barrel. His measurements came in at .313x.325. Chamber cast tomorrow in my garage-I've made every dumb mistake you can think of learning how to get a good chamber cast. Things I've learned-put the patch in for a plug, remove scope(still have Cerrosafe on that scope), remove action from stock(burned stock attempting to remove overfill)...I'm pretty good at it now but wow what a bunch of hair brained moves getting educated. He plans on getting a custom mold and sizer die.

Attached Files

R D posted this 09 May 2013

tturner; I am very interested in any info you can post on the 8X57. I agree that it gets very poor coverage and I believe it is as good as our 06 or 308 (horrors and disrespect of those, no I have 3 of one and 2 of the other). Carry on

R D

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 09 May 2013

tturner53, you bet, post them. I had a good friend, now sadly gone, who had an 8mm 98 Mauser that shot little tiny groups with cast at 100 yds. Don't remember what kind of Mauser that it was anymore, though, I'm thinking that it was an M48

Don't have an 8mm myself but for the number of them that are out there, you never know. Always interested in this kind of stuff.

R. Dupraz

Attached Files

Wineman posted this 09 May 2013

Just watch out if you have a 30-06, it is all too easy to get an 8 mm round mixed up especially if you have made cases from 30-06 brass. With CB's and lower pressure maybe less of an issue. A jacketed load can make a mess of an 06 pretty fast.

Dave

Attached Files

R D posted this 10 May 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=893>Wineman'  You are right, The two just don't mix. But I do my best to be careful.  I have had both since 72 or there abouts and have managed to keep them straight so far. I just ordered new glasses today so I hope to be set for a few days more. I don"t even want to run a low power cast slug through one. It has taken me a long time to grow these feathers and want to keep them a while. I do thank you for your concern and I promise you to do my best.

R D

Attached Files

Wineman posted this 10 May 2013

RD,there are not too many combinations that result in trouble, but a slightly shorter case and a fatter bullet are bad JuJu for sure. People always say that the USA made 8 mm is loaded down because of the bore diameter issues (please I am not opening up a can of worms) but my money is on the 30-06 and 7.92x57 mix up potential. If you put a Turk 8 mm round in a an 03 Springfield, I really want to be several benches away. Favor center and have fun.

Dave

Attached Files

R D posted this 10 May 2013

wineman; I agree with you 1oo percent and I also want to be several benches away too. I have gone all this time by being careful and will continue to be so. R D

Attached Files

Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close