LEE Mold Changes

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  • Last Post 27 July 2013
Pigslayer posted this 06 June 2013

Finally got my new LEE mold today after a 2 month backorder. Saw that LEE has made some cool changes to their mold blocks. They changed the type of alignment pins and it looks to be a welcome change . Also note that LEE is now using Allen screws to fasten their handles to the mold blocks. They are using different shape of extruded aluminum for the mold blocks with beveled edges. Can't wait to cast up some s of these 125 grainers for my .38 Special. See pics.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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delmarskid1 posted this 07 June 2013

Good ideas. The old two cavity molds were a little weird to close.

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JeffinNZ posted this 07 June 2013

Much better. Still astounds me how Lee can make their products in the US for the prices they can. Great company.

Cheers from New Zealand

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j35nut posted this 07 June 2013

I like it

A set screw for the sprue plate screw and some Bull plate lube and you could probably cast uninterrupted for a couple hrs.

----J

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Pigslayer posted this 08 June 2013

Cast up & sized about 100 of these little guys last night. Can't wait to see how they shoot in my .38 Special snubby! .>

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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4570sharps posted this 08 June 2013

I noticed the changes on a 41 mag mould I bought last summer. Welcome improvements to say the least.

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mckg posted this 08 June 2013

I've been thinking about that little bugger for 9mm, what diameter do they drop at, with which alloy?

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AWOL posted this 09 June 2013

I purchased this new style Lee mould in .350 RB, and used it today for the 1st time. I thought it worked well.

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

mckg wrote: I've been thinking about that little bugger for 9mm, what diameter do they drop at, with which alloy? They're dropping .361, +/- with Lyman #2. Didn't take long at all to get that mold broke in! Sprayed it with brake cleaner to clean the oil off, warmed it up & had at it! Was casting perfect little gems in no time. Found that due to the smaller mold blocks I don't see as much chance for frosty bullets. Although I use a PID controller I still have to leave my mold blocks open for about 10 - 15 seconds between casts to avoid frosting with the older larger blocks. With these new slimmer mold blocks I don't seem to need to do that. Seems like it would feed & shoot well in your 9MM. Plenty of room to size down too.

Pat..>

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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mckg posted this 09 June 2013

Thanks Pat. I was wondering about the funny shape (mold's), and always thought that LEE's people weren't actual users of their stuff... but it looks like they've done their homework.

btw, I cannot see venting in the halves...

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

The venting is there. Just hard to see.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Rich22 posted this 09 June 2013

Have said mold in RNFP in 38 cal. Drops out at .3585 to .360: Sized too .358; lubed with SPG; load with Red Dot; Shot out of my 1970 M19! best groups run about 1.70” for 4 rounds out of 5! Off bench @ 50yrds. Cast metal was 18:1. Fun casting, fun loading on my Dillion, best of all; fun shooting! Nice Mold!

Was told too use caution with Lee molds as they were not round! Well the “More I shoot; The luckier I get” Works for me!!

Good Shooting; Rich22

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mike morrison posted this 09 June 2013

pigslayer I have used that bullet from a lee six cavity for several years for my cowboy loads. could not estimate the thousands I have shot with scrap range lead with enough tin added to make them cast well. 3.5 clays and they shoot well from my single actions and my rifle. I lube them with a .359 die and have no problems at all. you will find good results with that bullet. enjoy. m

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hunterspistol posted this 09 June 2013

Really good pictures in this thread, Pigslayer! I've been shooting a lot of 9mm lately, prompted me to order a Lee Pro 20 and some six cavity molds. I'm going to try the “lotsa bullets production” method and see if I can get something out of it.

Really nice two cavity Lee you're holding there.  I have one in 44, and a few NOE molds around here somewhere. 

 Good Luck,
       Ron

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

hunterspistol wrote: Really good pictures in this thread, Pigslayer! I've been shooting a lot of 9mm lately, prompted me to order a Lee Pro 20 and some six cavity molds. I'm going to try the “lotsa bullets production” method and see if I can get something out of it.

Really nice two cavity Lee you're holding there.  I have one in 44, and a few NOE molds around here somewhere. 

 Good Luck,
       Ron</quote>

I'm seriously thinking about getting a pro 20. Been mulling it over for some time. The other night when I was casting up these little buggers and ran the pot dry, I knew it was time! Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

JeffinNZ wrote: Much better. Still astounds me how Lee can make their products in the US for the prices they can. Great company.

Jeff, It astounds me too! I'm mean like, where can you buy anything for less than $20.00 anymore? Even breakfast? And to have that quality too! Mr. Lee is a creative & marketing genius. The only LEE product that I have ever had a problem with was the early auto-disc powder measure. It didn't like flake powder. Other than that, I have used LEE's products since 1972 and have always been satisfied.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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delmarskid1 posted this 09 June 2013

We were in Hartford most of the weekend for a wedding. I wish I'd of remembered that Lee was there. It would have been cool to stop by.

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3100Loren posted this 10 June 2013

I heartily agree with you”¦now if Lee would only offer some of the Ranch Dog designs...

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Pigslayer posted this 12 June 2013

3100Loren wrote: I heartily agree with you”¦now if Lee would only offer some of the Ranch Dog designs...

Never got the opportunity to get a Ranchdog mold. either I didn't have the funds at the time or I was preoccupied with other things. My bad luck! Maybe he'll make them again one day.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Paul Pollard posted this 13 June 2013

Pat the Pigslayer wrote:

They're dropping .361, +/- with Lyman #2. Didn't take long at all to get that mold broke in! Sprayed it with brake cleaner to clean the oil off, warmed it up & had at it! Was casting perfect little gems in no time. Found that due to the smaller mold blocks I don't see as much chance for frosty bullets. Although I use a PID controller I still have to leave my mold blocks open for about 10 - 15 seconds between casts to avoid frosting with the older larger blocks. With these new slimmer mold blocks I don't seem to need to do that.

Hey Pat,

If your alloy #2 is the real deal at 90-5-5, I have found that it is finicky about mould temperature. With an LBT aluminum mould, pot temp at 660F, the best I can do is one cast per minute. Faster casting gives a frosted area at the mould handle area. This frosted area also does not fill out, giving a wasp-waist bullet. I kept turning the pot temp down, clear to 580 in 10 degree steps.

My alloy has a melt temperature of 550F. This stuff seems to fill okay, but I've turned the pot temp to 600 and it still is difficult. Maybe those printer people had the right idea. Linotype, monotype and even wheel weights all tolerate higher temperatures and faster casting without concave areas on the bullet. Maybe it was designed for iron moulds? I've considered quenching the mould in a bucket of water between casts.:P

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Pigslayer posted this 13 June 2013

Paul Pollard wrote: Pat the Pigslayer wrote:

They're dropping .361, +/- with Lyman #2. Didn't take long at all to get that mold broke in! Sprayed it with brake cleaner to clean the oil off, warmed it up & had at it! Was casting perfect little gems in no time. Found that due to the smaller mold blocks I don't see as much chance for frosty bullets. Although I use a PID controller I still have to leave my mold blocks open for about 10 - 15 seconds between casts to avoid frosting with the older larger blocks. With these new slimmer mold blocks I don't seem to need to do that.

Hey Pat,

If your alloy #2 is the real deal at 90-5-5, I have found that it is finicky about mould temperature. With an LBT aluminum mould, pot temp at 660F, the best I can do is one cast per minute. Faster casting gives a frosted area at the mould handle area. This frosted area also does not fill out, giving a wasp-waist bullet. I kept turning the pot temp down, clear to 580 in 10 degree steps.

My alloy has a melt temperature of 550F. This stuff seems to fill okay, but I've turned the pot temp to 600 and it still is difficult. Maybe those printer people had the right idea. Linotype, monotype and even wheel weights all tolerate higher temperatures and faster casting without concave areas on the bullet. Maybe it was designed for iron moulds? I've considered quenching the mould in a bucket of water between casts.:P

Paul, Yep, my Lyman #2 is the real deal. I make it from pure soft lead, 70/30 lead/antimony alloy from rotometals & pure tin from rotometals. You may want to check the heat in your pot with a thermometer. I think that rotometals has them. A bi-metal thermostat ( if that's what you have) can swing up to +/- 30 degrees F. That's a lot. I use a PID controller which keeps my temps within about 2 degrees. I'm running my PID at 335 degrees Celsius or 635 degrees Fahrenheit. When using the larger 2 cavity molds I leave my mold open to the air for about 10 to 15 seconds between casts and get nice shiny bullets. With the older Lyman single cavity AND the new & smaller LEE mold I may leave the mold open for maybe 5 seconds or simply close it immediately and cast again. A PID controller is the way to go in my book and Uncle Russ on this site sells them. At the very least get yourself a thermometer. Hope this helps, Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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