9mm cast bullet loads

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beagle6 posted this 09 July 2020

I would like to hear from members with experience in loading cast bullets for 9mm Luger caliber pistols. I am more interested in bullet shape and alloy for positive feeding than anything else. This is not for defensive shooting.

Thanks. beagle6

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Qc Pistolero posted this 09 July 2020

I use a 125gr bbtc from my Master Caster.They are water cooled which makes for a hard bullet.I normally prefer a soft bullet but for the slam bang operation of an auto I'd rather have these hard.Sized at .357 and lubed with 50/50 beeswax/Alox,they feed well in both my CZ and my daughter's Sig P226.

My targets have a black that spans 4 1/2'' and they all stay inside the black at 20 yds...which is about as good as I can do with my model 52 and 14 with target wc in .38.The load is with mixed commercial brass and uses 231,4.3gr of it.

I haven't chronoed them but I think that they might be a little slower than commercial ammo but like I said,the load is accurate and reliable so I'm satisfied.

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Shopdog posted this 09 July 2020

Don't shoot that much 9mm but have Lyman,356242 RN,and also their 356402 TC.

Both drop right at 358 so are also useful in 38sp.... most notably in snubs for lite loads.

Cast with range scrap they do fine with accuracy and feeding in the few semi autos I've run them in.Accuracy is more of a firearm question than these two moulds.

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Dukem posted this 10 July 2020

I use my master caster's 38-130-RNFP and they have worked well in a Berretta 92, a S&W 6913, and a Browning Hi-Power.

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358156hp posted this 10 July 2020

I cast Lyman 356402 and 356637 from 4 cavity moulds, and the 135 gr Ranch Dog design from an NOE mould. I generally cast a large batch from range scrap and let them air cool overnight. Then I size them, give them a shake to powder coat, and bake them at around 420* for a minimum of 1/2 hour (after glossing) before water quenching straight off the baking plate. I don't bother trying to test for hardness, but this procedure works really well for me.

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Boschloper posted this 10 July 2020

I use the Lyman 358242 sized .356 powder coated with Eastwood Mirror Red.  Range brass, CCI 500 primers, and 3.9 gr. of HP38.  I seat to the center of the top driving band and a light taper crimp. 

This load works flawlessly in my 4 9mm's, SIG P226, & P229, Ruger P89, and Blackhawk.

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GP Idaho posted this 10 July 2020

Beagle6: My favorite 9mm load is the Lee 120gr. TC or the RCBS 124 TC  Pretty much the same bullet. I load it over 4.2gr of HP38 This is a fairly tame load but cycles all my 9's just fine.  Gp

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lotech posted this 10 July 2020

I've tried many bullet designs and powders since I began working with 9mm cast loads more than thirty years ago. Best bullet I've found is cast with the obsolete Lyman #358212, 147-150 grain plain base round nose .38 Special mould, ww alloy, sized .358". I use Bullseye powder. This load has functioned reliably in my three 9mm handguns. It chronographs around 875 and accuracy is very good. 

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Larry Gibson posted this 10 July 2020

Been loading cast bullets in 9mm since '68.  I have used numerous moulds (the usual suspects) of 105 - 125 gr.  Usually cast them of straight COWW alloy or, now days, COWW + 2% tin and AC them.  For many years I sized them all at .356 and lubed with Javelina or Tamerak and never had any accuracy or leading issues.  I've loaded them over Bullseye, Red Dot, 700x, WST, 221, Unique and Herco. I shot them through many different handguns and a few subguns.  

For the last 20 or so years I've been using the Lee 6 cavity mould to cast 356-120-TCs with out of the COWW + 2% tin or a range lead concoction of equal hardness.  I size them at .357 because all the internet "experts" say .356 is too small and will cause leading and tumbling.   I never saw either firing thousand of round of .356 sized cast bullets.....but what do I know, the "experts" say to size larger...upwards of .359 but I've had chambering issues in some guns with some brass with bullets that large.  Cast bullets sized .38 or .359 also gave some lead shavings of rings in the chambers because the bullets were larger than the throats and shaved lead off.  So I now size .357 and that seem a happy medium.....

I still shoot sized and lubed bullets as PC'd bullets have shown me nothing (not criticizing those who use them just stating fact).  I load them over 4 gr of Bullseye these days. They function in every 9mm I've tried them in over the last 20 +/- years, accuracy is excellent. 

LMG

Concealment is not cover.........

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Little Debbie posted this 10 July 2020

I can only agree with Larry on his methods. I started shooting lead bullets in my S&W M39 in the mid seventies both factory swaged 9mm billets and cast. I started with a Lyman 356402 and a H&G #7 four cavity. These both produce a 124 gr +- truncated cone that feeds in anything. I’ve gone to the Lee six cavity 120 gr TL style. Cast from bullet trap scrap and tumble lubed. Crimping with a Lee carbide crimp die sizes the bullet in the case and makes it chamber in any pistol/carbine/SMG I’ve tried them in. 4 gr of Bullseye works great. In my Dillon RL 1000 W231 meters better and I’ve used 4.5 gr W231 for many years. Accuracy is comparable to cheap bulk 9 mm factory and that’s been good enough for me.

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BigMan54 posted this 10 July 2020

Shot 9mm since early 1960's.  Loaded the #356242 or #356402 over 4.0grs Bulleye. #2 or harder.  S&W M39 & M59, Hi-Power, Browning/Sig BDA or P220 in 9mm. Use 50/50 alloy of COWW/#2 these days for the Walther P-38, P-1, P-4 or Beretta M92. The last have an almost straight line feed. 

If the Lugers are the hardest to get to feed right the Walther & Beretta are the easiest.

Needed Linotype to feed in the PO-8 Lugers. The TC wouldn't feed in the Luger. 

Using mostly Lee 356-125-2R sized .356 and PC'd with Eastwood Squirrel Grey. 

Use RCBS dies, with .356 expander and a light taper crimp.  Favorite powder is Bullseye.  4.0 - 4.2 grains. 

The RCBS (1976) dies are carbide with std expander and a C&H (1984) taper crimp.

Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.

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lotech posted this 10 July 2020

When I began casting 9mm bullets, I used linotype as I had a lot of it and I could buy it cheap at a scrapyard. It didn't have quite the BHN of true linotype but was still much harder than WW alloy. Sizing to .356" worked well. Accuracy was good and if there was any leading at all, it was minimal; I didn't keep good notes then so all this is from memory.

When Iinotype became expensive and hard to find, I switched to WW alloy. .356" WW bullets shot poorly and leaded bores until I increased bullet diameter, trying .357", .358", and even .359". The .358" bullets that shoot well in my Beretta, Sig, and P4 Walther may not do well in some guns, but I suspect they will in many. It's advantageous to try different diameter bullets, but keep in mind loaded cartridges must chamber without difficulty. SAAMI spec. is .380" diameter (neck) for a loaded 9mm cartridge.

9mm powders I've used over the years include Bullseye, 231, Unique, AA#2, AA#5, AA#7, Titegroup, HS-6, Blue Dot, SR4756, SR7625, Herco, Power Pistol, and maybe others with about a dozen bullets ranging from around 100 grains to more than 150 grains.  Lots of changeable factors here and I can only comment and recommend what has worked well for me. Wish I was truly an expert as I'd have all this figured out. 

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Johnshandloads posted this 10 July 2020

I cast my own out of range scrap alloy that usually averages around 11-13 BHN. Sometimes a little higher or lower. I powder coat my bullets and do not water quench. I use the Lee TL356-124-TC bullet exclusively in 9mm and have had great results. Seating depth can be finicky in some guns. The truncated cone shape works well for me in Taurus and Glock semi auto pistols. I size them to .356 after the powder coating, using a Lee sizing die.

https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-molds/bullet-molds/9mm-luger-38-super-auto-380-auto/lee-dc-mold-tl356-124-tc

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argie1891 posted this 11 July 2020

I have mostly used the RCBS 147 gr. bullet. Now i might be wrong but as the heavy bullet can work the action at lower velocity the chance of leading is less. When i first started loading for the 9mm the only mould i had was a Lyman #355632 100 gr. mould for the 380, in order to function i had to shoot it pretty darn fast and got some leading. My limited experience in loading the 9mm is with a Ruger P95 Remington R51 and a beretta 92. 

if you think you have it figured out then you just dont understand

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res45 posted this 12 July 2020

I run a six cavity Lee .356" 120 gr. TC bullet in my 9 mm pistols cast from 50/50  PB / COWW powder coated and water quench right out of the toaster oven then sized to .357" and push it with 5.0 grs. of Power Pistol.  No feeding issues no leading and good accuracy. I've shot the same bullet lubed and sized in my RCBS Lube A Matic with equal result, the PC is just better for long term storage of my bullets out in the shop.

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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wingarand44 posted this 14 July 2020

I would like to hear from members with experience in loading cast bullets for 9mm Luger caliber pistols. I am more interested in bullet shape and alloy for positive feeding than anything else. This is not for defensive shooting.

Thanks. beagle6

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beagle6 posted this 4 weeks ago

Thanks everyone for all your help.

beagle6

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Aaron posted this yesterday

The Lyman 356402 has worked exceptionally well for me and solved multiple feeding/chambering issues due to bullet diameter & throat variance across many platforms. In a nutshell, a T/C bullet and Accurate #5 is where you will end up eventually after pulling out all your hair. Either the Lyman or the Lee T/C bullet will work. I size to .356 and now have NO chambering issues across platforms. WW alloy or Lyman #2 is my alloy of choice.

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