Flintlocks

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  • Last Post 22 May 2019
beagle6 posted this 11 April 2018

A good quality lock with a sharp flint, properly loaded, is as fast as a percussion lock for all practical purposes. If  you are getting " klatch, pfft, boom" something is definately wrong. One thing could be too much powder in the pan. It only takes a very small amount and that should be placed well away from the vent. A really good source of information is "Muzzle Blasts Online,Vol.4, No.4; The Flintlock Revisited.

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onondaga posted this 11 April 2018

T.C. and Traditions make flintlock primer pan charge tools. I have the Traditions model for my Traditions flintlock and it fills my primer pan 2/3 full. This gives lightening fast ignition as fast as my Lyman GP percussion rifle. You can prove to yourself by doubling the charge and slowing down your ignition that more powder is worse in a flintlock prime pan. It is not a matter of skewed common sense that more is better, the right amount works better.

Gary

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beagle6 posted this 11 April 2018

T.C. and Traditions make flintlock primer pan charge tools. I have the Traditions model for my Traditions flintlock and it fills my primer pan 2/3 full. This gives lightening fast ignition as fast as my Lyman GP percussion rifle. You can prove to yourself by doubling the charge and slowing down your ignition that more powder is worse in a flintlock prime pan. It is not a matter of skewed common sense that more is better, the right amount works better.

Gary

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beagle6 posted this 11 April 2018

You are absolutely right and I don't even use that much; maybe 1/4 of the pan and placed on the outside, away from the vent.

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RicinYakima posted this 12 April 2018

The first UTube video I ever watch was about 2005 when I was building my flinter. It clearly shows in ultra slow photography that the grains of FFFF powder burn 360 degrees from surface of the grain. You only need enough to get the flame front to go into the touch hole, as everything else is wasted. Powder over the bottom of the touch hole retards the flame from going inside.

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Seven Pines posted this 14 May 2019

I’ve used a tiny taper pin reamer to make my bent holes and that also seems to help. Almost like the nozzle on a rocket engine I imagine. I can’t remember the size of taper pin reamer it’s at dads shop but it is very very small and might be one of the ones made in the tool room where grandpa used to work.

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Seven Pines posted this 14 May 2019

Vent not bent. Silly auto correct

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harleyrock posted this 19 May 2019

The inside of the vent in the flintlock that I built has wide taper (like a countersink) and I assume this is common. So the powder charge is very close to that vent opening.  The hot gasses don't have to go deep down a hole to get to the powder.

Lifetime NRA since 1956, NRA Benefactor, USN Member, CBA Member

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Seven Pines posted this 22 May 2019

I have also used a counter sink to make vent holes in the stainless liners. My dad uses one now inside and outside ends. But I agree totally with beagle6 about lock quality and sharp flints. Onondaga: Amount of priming in the pan is critical to consistently igniting the main charge.

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