Any Experience With.....

  • 2.3K Views
  • Last Post 21 January 2010
CB posted this 19 January 2010

Has anyone had any experience with any of the following products?

NEI Mold Prep

Rapine Mold Prep

BullShop Sprue Plate Lube

I am looking for your comments on any of the above products, good or bad..

Thanks Jeff

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
Ed Harris posted this 19 January 2010

NEI Mould Prep is micro-fine graphite in an acetone carrier. LOVE the stuff. Better than smoking. Also use it to dry-lube internal parts of DA revolvers.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

CB posted this 19 January 2010

I found that the Rapine is similar to that only in an alcohol based carrier. Again the same result..

Attached Files

R. Dupraz posted this 19 January 2010

Jeff:

My only experience has been with Rapine mold prep. I was disappointed. All it seems to be is an expensive graphited alcohol solution. Two ingredients that I have on the shelf all the time.  While it does work on moulds, it must be applied when the mould is cold and doesn't last very long. So then I have a hot mold in my mits with no prep anyway.

I use a graphited lock fluid called “Lock-Ease". It is found in stores anywhere and at about $3.00 a can,life time supply, is a whole lot cheaper, can be applied to hot moulds and lasts much much longer than any of this other stuff, at least the Rapine.

” Enters as a rapid penetrant, coating mechanism. The special “carrier” soon evaporates, leaving a graphited ,long wearing film that won't run at extreme temperatures."

All it takes is a drop or two on handle hinges and on the bottom of the sprue plate or where ever but not in the cavity. Works best when there is a bullet in the mould. Less is better. 

 

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 19 January 2010

The NEI has been working for me for many years. It does have to be applied to a cold mold, hot won't work. I put it in the cavity with a q-tip, then usually coat everything, inside and out. Seems to have a little bit of a 'blueing' effect that's permanent. Going very light is the key, if you gob it on(I know) it will leave shadows on your buulets, though they don't seem to affect accuracy. I think I'll try the lock ease trick on a rough trigger.  EDIT: You can find a lot of Bullplate info over on boolits, they love it. I'm wondering if it is actually a commonly available shop product.

Attached Files

raytear posted this 19 January 2010

Whatever mold prep you use, keep it out of the vent grooves! I have borrowed a couple of moulds from shooting buddies who had sprayed graphite mould preps on them. Until I took a brass bristled brush to the mould faces, clearing the vent grooves, they did not cast worth a hoot.

Attached Files

runfiverun posted this 19 January 2010

the only experience with mold prep is in trying to take it out of a mold. a mold does not need it in the same room. the bullplate is excellent at keeping the top of an aluminum mold from being galled from lead smears and is good on mehanite ones also. it also makes dang good boolit lube. for mold release agent kroil works extremely good.

you need to order the bullplate from bullshop directly, his website is at the bottom of the castboolits site.

say hi to dan for me .

Attached Files

cityboy posted this 19 January 2010

I use NEI but not in the cavities. The Lee moulds gall easily on the top of the blocks, so I coat the top and the underside of the sprue plate.

Jim

Attached Files

chboats posted this 20 January 2010

I have been using NEI for years. my 4oz bottle must be 25 years old. A little goes a long way. Use it mostly on guide pins. It stays put and does not migrate. Bullplate seems to be the best for me on the sprue plate and the top of the mould to prevent galling and lead smears. Tried the spray on graphite, it worked OK for the sprue plate but keep it away from the cavities. Carl

Attached Files

2Tite posted this 20 January 2010

I've used NEI for years and love it. When Walt passed I stocked up as I was afraid I might not be able to get any more. It works great on the outside as well to protect the blocks. I don't worry about the vent lines and have never had any problems. It works best on iron blocks as aluminum doesn't seem to have as porous a surface. A small bottle lasts quite a while as it doesn't have to be reapplied often. Great stuff..............

Attached Files

TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 20 January 2010

I've tried my own mixes of graphite, MDS and Titaniumdioxide. I first used alcohol as a carrier, then a food grade silicone grease. The best has been the Titaniumdioxide with the high temp (silicone base) grease. (Using these for coating the top of the mould and the bottom of the sprue plate.)

Attached Files

CB posted this 21 January 2010

Who stocks these mold preps? Graphite I can get with no trouble.

Jerry

Attached Files

CB posted this 21 January 2010

runfiverun wrote: the only experience with mold prep is in trying to take it out of a mold. a mold does not need it in the same room.

The cheap brake cleaner in the blue can from walmart takes it right out. under $3.00 a can but be advised to do it outside as it really smells flammable.

Attached Files

Close