PID theromocoupler control

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  • Last Post 26 April 2018
Tooweels posted this 06 June 2017

Hi Guys, please see the link below, Im real interested in adding this or another brand like it to either or both of my Lee 4-20 pots,

1, I've searched the site but cant find how folks couple it to the pot, is it hard wired to the individual pot itself or is the unit separated and the plug on the pot is then attached to another plug wired into the PID with the sensor sitting in the melt ?

2,How are you guys that use a PID Operating ? I cast and fill the pot as I make bullets and don't like to stop only to flux every 10 ingots (10 OZ each) until ive got through about 40 ingots and that's as much as I do for pistol cal bullets, for large rifle bullets a lot slower and less volume but still like to make as many as I can without stopping adding preheated ingots from a electric skillet, Do you have to remove the sensor each time you flux

Thanks in advance

Tooweels

http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/lifestyle/home-brewing/other/auction-1337209853.htm

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onondaga posted this 06 June 2017

Tooweels

I use  PID to control a Lee 4-20. The unit was made by  member (Pigslayer) here. The circuitry, plans and building tips are archived in Pat's posts on this forum. The PID plugs into the wall. the  pot plugs into the PID and the sensor from the PID is clipped to the pot with the probe held in the melt. The pot is set to full heat and the PID cycles the pot heating element to reach and stabilize at the temp as you set the PID. There is some cycling plus and minus in degrees that gets smaller and smaller in temp swing before the temp stabilizes as the PID learns your metal response to heat and your routine. The chip LEARNS.

I cast a full pot nonstop without fluxing after initial fluxing and don't add metal or flux while casting as this wildly changes temperature and screws up stability of temperature.

The 4-20 is a bottom pour spout pot and junk on the top of the melt is of no consequence to bullet quality unless you run the pot down to under about 1.5  pounds. When I run it down that low, then I refill and melt a full pot, flux and cast continuing the cycle a pot at a time without changing the temperature setting.

 

Fluxing and adding metal while working defeats the stability benefit of the PID, Don't add metal and flux or you will be sitting and waiting a VERY LOT for temperature stabilization..

Every time you change the degree setting of the PID it has to re-educate itself again. Be sure of the setting you want and don't change it all even if you are going to run many potfulls in succession. Any time you change the temp setting you will be twitteling thumbs a long time.

 

PID units are rated in Watts, one Lee 4-20 is 500 watts. The PID chip only provides for one sensor, so if you want to run 2 pots, you need 2 separate PID units. you can't stack multiple pots on one PID.

An extremely useful feature of using a PID is that you can exactly determine ideal pot temperature for casting any bullet alloy. Set the pot high and get a fully fluid melt. Then turn the PID down to room temp and note the very first solidification sign of your metal surface and note temperature. The Ideal pot temp for casting that alloy is 100 degrees hotter than first solidification.

 

Gary

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Bohica793 posted this 06 June 2017

Exactly what Onondaga said.  I built my own PID based on plans I found here and have it attached to my Lee 20lb bottom pour.  I keep my PID set to maintain between 690 and 700 degrees.  Well worth the time and small cost to build.

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Tooweels posted this 08 June 2017

Thanks guys Im getting the parts together now and looking forward to trying it out

 

Have a good day

 

Tooweels

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echale3 posted this 13 June 2017

I got my PID from Aliexpress.com, and for a REX C-100, SSR, heat sink, and an extra 100 mm K-type thermocouple (the thermocouple that comes with the "kit" , I spent $20.30 delivered to my door.

I scrounged an extension cord from my house to run the power supply (cut in half, one side runs the PID, the other side hooks up to the SSR and allows me to plug/unplug the Lee 20 lb pot the PID controls.

I mounted the PID and SSR in a scrap PC power supply case and I made a simple disconnect for the thermocouple using an internal clip-together connector from the computer so that the thermocouple could stay mounted securely to the pot and I could store the pot and PID separately.  Total working time hooking everything up, including using a cutoff wheel to make the hole to mount the controller box in the side of the power supply box was about 45 minutes.  The wiring bit was easy, I had wire on hand, and the schematics are all over the place on the 'net.

If you have the least handy-man bone in your body, you can do this no problem, and it's a great tool--my pot temperature stays rock steady wherever I set it. 

 

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Tooweels posted this 15 June 2017

 Well I can honestly say I should have checked Ali Express first ! Hah Ive paid a wee bit more than the above by a local supplier but not the end of the world, got all me bits at home now except the 50 cal ammo box Im going to mount it all in I will use a double Controller set up one for pot and the other for a hotplate

 

Im planning on using this diagram does anyone see anything wrong with it ?

 

Thanks and have a good day

 

Steve

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vmwilson posted this 15 June 2017

Looks good near as I can tell.  Hopefully your Rex is one of the Japanese made and not one of the knockoffs.  I've been real happy with my units.

 

Mike

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Pigslayer posted this 15 June 2017

Sounds like you guys got the PID thing handled. Sorry that I haven't been around. Been one thing after another.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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vmwilson posted this 16 June 2017

Got to thinking about your diagram and took another look.  Wiring is basically right but 2 things bother me.  One is it shows it's a 220v unit which isn't good if you live in the states.  Other thing is both my Rex's show the output to be SSR and I don't see that on your unit.  Best verify what you have there.

Mike

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Pigslayer posted this 17 June 2017

The input power for the PID itself is variable in that the voltage can be 90V to 260V AC or DC. But as you stated I see no markings for the SSR terminals. I ran into exactly that problem at one time & the PID in question was useless. At that point I was real careful in examining the specs before purchasing. There are knockoffs! I have several new & correct PID's in my shop. See pic for correct schematic that should be attached to your PID.

-Pat

 

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Tooweels posted this 17 June 2017

Hi,Guys the voltage in my neck of the woods is all 240 50 HZ, As for Knockoff`s well not anywhere on the controller or paperwork that came with it does it State "Made in Japan" so your guess will be as good as mine but I probably would assume it is a copy, please see pic below of my controller with SSR diagram outlets on side of unit,

The above diagram posted previously I will add an earth and 10 amp barrel fuse to it as well

Thanks for all of your help

Steve

 

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Pigslayer posted this 17 June 2017

I find that most are made in China. 240V of course is fine from my experience. Made one for a fellow in France a long time ago. He said that it worked fine. I also see that your SSR terminals are marked accordingly. Have fun my friend! If you need any help please yell!!

 

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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GP Idaho posted this 17 June 2017

Pat; If any of the several PIDs in your shop are for sale, PM me with the details. Thanks  Gp

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Pigslayer posted this 19 June 2017

Well, I've got one on the bench for you. Just waiting on a couple of small parts to get here e.g. indicator light, fuse(s), male trapezoid plug, etc.. See the one on the left in the attached pic. The one on the right is for my lube sizer heaters. Waiting on another PID unit also.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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GP Idaho posted this 20 June 2017

Thank you Pat.  This will be a good addition to my toy box.  It's a good thing I'm not a model railroader or I'd have to have a crossbuck for every whistle stop in the country. LOL  Love my bench tools. Gp

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vmwilson posted this 28 June 2017

Am in process of assembling another unit and the controller arrived today.  If you are going to use a REX here's some pix of what you want to see.  Note the RKC  and Japan as well as the model #

[img]http://i.imgur.com/6qBDmH8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/SIzoC4A.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/TMtKoWF.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/HAaizF2.jpg[/img]

.

 

Mike

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vmwilson posted this 28 June 2017

Apparently using links isn't gonna work so will try inserting on here another way.

 

Mike

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vmwilson posted this 03 July 2017

Newsletter from 1911.org says photo bucket will no longer be doing direct links to forums, etc. unless a hefty membership fee is paid so that will screw up a lot of old posts pictures from being displayed.

Mike

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Reese posted this 23 March 2018

I would like to purchase a PID if you are still making them.  Furnish the cost in a private message to me.  Thanks, Reese

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Pigslayer posted this 26 April 2018

On it's way to a customer.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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