A friend wanted me to open up a nose punch to fit a bullet, he gave me Lyman (?) and it was close to file hard. Got me to thinking, if NOE uses Aluminum, would Delrin work? I've got a selection of Delrin rod sizes coming in a few day, easy to work with. Am I wasting my time trying Delrin?
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- Last Post 03 May 2019
Delrin would probably work, but the easy way is to take a bullet, wax it well, put a blob of JBWeld on the nose punch, well maybe you should put the top punch into the lubrisizer before the JBWeld is applied, and then press the punch down onto the bullet. After the JB hardens you will have a perfectly fitting top Punch.
delrin MIGHT work for a nose punch to only lube a bullet. but likely fail if sizing down much at all.
aluminum would work if you can keep the walls thick enough. as in 1/4 inch wall at least. or just a dimple in the end of the pushrod, no walls.
12l14 , " easycut " steel would be great .. if you need some, i have a bunch for postage, let me know the dia you need. hey, i have a lot of 1/2 inch hex, makes neat gadgets . can be case hardened also, but not often needed.
I turn top punches for my Saeco lube-sizers from 1/2" inch hex rod and then it's J-B weld for a perfect nose form.
I've coated the bullet with 1 coat of Johnson's Floor Wax per day for 3 days, before using the J-B Weld. I have to store the "new" TP in the container with the sizer die. Otherwise it gets lost lost in the box of TP's.
Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.
Some craft stores or hobby shops carry mold release compound.
This is the same stuff you get in stock bedding kits, it is PVA - Poly Vinyl Alcohol in an alcohol water solution.
PVA is also available at the grocery store, most hair hold sprays are just a PVA solution.
The advantage of PVA is it takes only one coat on non-porous surfaces and dries in 20 minutes.
If you want to remove JB Weld or other epoxy, heat to 350 in an oven and it is soft enough to dig out.
Some of my fitted epoxy nose punches have gone over 10,000 rounds as sizing punches and seating punches.
JB sounds like the best choice. I have a couple punches of my own that can use some customizing.
After thought..... what about Acraglas with powdered metal, same thing? I've still got some bronze powder that was used on an M!
Some details that can save some grief
There are lots of things that can be used as release agents. I use Minwax paste wax whenever I am using any type of epoxy and don't want to weld something together. Only because I have it. Dries in 15 minutes.
And clean the inside of the top punch to completely remove any residual wax, grease or oil because they will also act as a release agents and the insert can eventually come out. or break apart. I use either brake cleaner which I already have for cleaning molds or acetone.
Then be sure to completely fill the void in the top punch with JB before gently placing the nose of the bullet in. When sizing, the pressure is then distributed evenly over the entire nose insuring even pressure over the entire suface and will prevent any chance that the sharp bottom edge of the punch from mashing a ring around the casting.
"After thought..... what about Acraglas with powdered metal, same thing? I've still got some bronze powder that was used on an M!"
Wouldn't tumble lube such as 45-45-10, Ben's Liquid Lube, LLA etc. do as a release agent?
Lifetime NRA since 1956, NRA Benefactor, USN Member, CBA Member
at least for gun bedding, i use kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release ...
my one use of PVA was a near disaster ... after that i decided that epoxying a scope base would be plenty good at least for plinking ( g ) . maybe i didn't use the PVA right, experience is a big factor.
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