I have seen several suggestions to get a PID. Where does one purchase a PID? Or how does one make one? Inquiring minds want to know! Bob 11B50
PID, buying or making one of these items
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- Last Post 28 March 2016
onondaga
posted this
30 April 2014
Kits for building PID for casting pots come and go. a google search shows what is available when you are seriously looking:
Gary
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RicinYakima
posted this
30 April 2014
A retired electrical company owner on this board, “Uncle Russ", makes them for sale if you PM him. Ric
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badgeredd
posted this
30 April 2014
Here is a thread by one fellow that has been making them for a while and folks seem to be satisfied with the quality of his product.
I have one made by another fellow that works well, but unfortunately he is no longer on the Castboolit forum.
Edd
P.S. Here is a thread about building your own. It may be of some use to you.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?34547-How-I-wired-a-PID-to-control-temperature
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Pigslayer
posted this
04 May 2014
Uncle Russ can fix you up & you can't go wrong with a PID. Once you find the sweet spot for it you're home free. I made mine for about $50.00 in parts from ebay. You could too but if you are not comfortable with making one then look up Uncle Russ. I think he gives a choice of using all USA parts or Import parts. Pat.jpg?width=690&upscale=false” alt=)
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
04 May 2014
Anyone have a current link to order PID parts kits from Uncle Russ? My search was unproductive.
Gary
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Pigslayer
posted this
05 May 2014
Anyone have a current link to order PID parts kits from Uncle Russ? My search was unproductive.
Gary
The only way I've contacted him is via this forum but if you can't find him I can help you with the parts list and where to get them.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
06 May 2014
Pat, Thank you, a parts list and where to get them would be very helpful for me and others considering making a PID..I am about ready to give one a try. I am not shy building electronic stuff and have built a number of Amateur Radio projects.
Gary
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vmwilson
posted this
06 May 2014
There's a wealth of info on cast boolits about PID's. Worth the reading IMHO though obviously a lot of it will be about things you'll have no trouble doing.
Mike
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Another pic. The standard 3 - prong outlet on the left is of course for the pot to plug into. I had a number of computer cords laying around so I picked up a 3 - pin socket (on the right) for one of them to actually power the PID. Both of these parts are available on ebay for about $2.00 shipped each..jpg?width=690&upscale=false” alt=)
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Another
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Another
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Another. A switch is actually optional as with the idiot lights. In this case I used a on-off-on switch. In the bottom position the green light stays on & the PID is bypassed leaving the pot to be controlled by it's own thermostat. Middle position is of course “off". Uppermost position puts the PID in control (Pot thermostat wide open). Again the green indicator shows the unit is powered up & the red showing that the PID is in operation. As the pot approaches the set temperature it will begin to cycle on & off with the red light flashing in unison with the opening & closing of the solid state relay (SSR). You'll note that my PID is set for 355 degrees centigrade (671F). I have since found that my “sweet spot” is 345 degrees centigrade (653F). I had just turned the PID on when I took this pic. The PID is showing the pot temp to be 52.9 degrees centigrade (127.22F). Yes, my PID registers in Centigrade only. No big deal as a conversion chart is readily available online..jpg?width=690&upscale=false” alt=)
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Another. Note that I used some (TIG) welding rod to make a holder for the probe. Still using the same one two years later..jpg?width=690&upscale=false” alt=)
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Last One
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
11 May 2014
Thanks for the pictures Pat, that looks like point to point wiring with 1/4” crimp on connectors and the cutouts in the project box probably took the most time!!!! The Lee pot itself is 500 watts so 14 ga. wire would be fine.
I want to give this a try. I have welding rod and an outlet already.
Gary
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 May 2014
Thanks for the pictures Pat, that looks like point to point wiring with 1/4” crimp on connectors and the cutouts in the project box probably took the most time!!!! The Lee pot itself is 500 watts so 14 ga. wire would be fine.
I want to give this a try. I have welding rod and an outlet already.
Gary
Gary,
I made the cutouts in the sheet metal with my Dremel tool & a cutoff wheel, finishing up with a fine file. As I had mentioned I made the enclosure out of sheet metal left over from installing my new furnace. I have this cool little (18") sheet metal brake that I bought from grizzly industrial (for cheap like I am) to make my bends with. #14GA wire is more than big enough. Your pot at 750 wats will only draw 6.25A. #14 GA is good for 15A. You may want to size down a little.
I actually keep a number of 25' rolls of 18 ga. tinned project wire in my little shop for situations like this. The tinned wire (18GA) in “free air” is good for about 15A. I get that tinned wire from McMaster-Carr online.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Frozone
posted this
13 May 2014
Just in case anyone is interested.
I've built hundreds of these units.
I'm a retired EE. Kits are complete and wiring is done with only a screw driver. Ever built an old heath kit? same idea here.
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Pigslayer
posted this
13 May 2014
Just in case anyone is interested.
I've built hundreds of these units.
I'm a retired EE. Kits are complete and wiring is done with only a screw driver. Ever built an old heath kit? same idea here. Frozone, Hmmmmmmmmm. You joined CBA 2 years ago & this is your 3rd post and it being one for hawking your wares. You're using about $50.00 worth of parts & selling the plug and play unit for . . . $175.00!!!!!! The DIY kit for $140.00 !!!!! What a deal! I might feel a little differently if you showed up & posted once in a while & offered some useful information. The killer is that your website advertises “castboolits” as the go-to place for cast bullet information. (Note the spelling for “bullets"). You're bold! Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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vmwilson
posted this
14 May 2014
All I'll add is that when I built mine, Frozone was very helpful. And FWIW I believe a unit from Uncle Russ was in the $190 range.
Mike
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Frozone
posted this
14 May 2014
You're bold!
Pat
Thank you.
I take it you don't want one then?
I don't believe the number of posts made is a requirment for membership.
As a general rule high post count = a lot of hot air to spill.
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Pigslayer
posted this
14 May 2014
You're bold!
Pat
Thank you.
I take it you don't want one then?
I don't believe the number of posts made is a requirment for membership.
As a general rule high post count = a lot of hot air to spill.
High post count also means one has useful info to offer or is interested in useful information that others have to offer. As far as your PID . . . no I don't want one. I am willing to go so far as to help any CBA member in obtaining materials & building there own as cheaply as possible. I can get the PID controller that you show on your website for as little as $24.00 shipped. The SSR for $8.00 shipped. The whole bundle for about $50.00 minus the enclosure. I believe in giving fellow members a break. It's called being part of a fellowship so to speak. And by the way, this site has an area for sale items to be listed. Also, stop around more often & participate on a more informative/educational level. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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John Alexander
posted this
14 May 2014
OK, It looks to me like this thread has gotten a little off base. Let's please keep it productive.
Contributors are welcome no matter how many posts they make.
Frozone post was welcome to me and probably to others interested in buying a PID. Up until his post I couldn't figure out who would sell me one. Uncle Russ didn't participate so I didn't know if he was still in business.
I appreciate Pat's offer to help members build one and I build some of my own stuff but I have too many other projects going.
Every manufactured thing we buy cost several times the materials that go into it and up to a point that is fair enough. Design effort and labor should be paid. I would be interested in hearing from more of Frozone's customers.
John
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Frozone
posted this
14 May 2014
Thanks John,
I was asked by a group of people on the 'castboolits forum' to build a number of these for them. We made it a 'group buy' and I designed and built about 30 units. That was ~4 years ago, and all the units are still going strong. I even built one for Ken, the owner of that forum.
The 'Kit' is a result of people starting to build their own unit and getting bogged down. They realize that it isn't Just the big parts. There are a lot of small details that need to be addressed.
So the kit is designed for the person who is comfortable with 'mechanical' stuff but doesn't want/like to mess with electricity.
I'll was going to put up a page on my site of testimonials but I have never really believed that stuff on other sites, so I didn't.
I can give you a long list of happy customers if you are truly interested.
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Pigslayer
posted this
14 May 2014
I will build one for any CBA member for $100.00 even + shipping. Now that's a fair price. I do not say this to circumvent the livelihood of Frozone. I do it because I like helping others as many on this site are retired & on fixed incomes. I believe that giving to others that have given so much to me is a small price to pay & I do so with great pleasure. Nuff said.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
16 May 2014
I am going to start a PID building tutorial here as I am building one for a CBA member. I have ordered all the parts minus the indicator lights & on-off-on switch. The enclosue I will build out of 20ga. sheet metal I have in my basement. The grand total right now is a monumental $42.00!!! Again folks, my building this project is not to compromise the livelihood of other vendors. It is only to help those who would like to have one that normally would not be able to afford one. I made mine from the same parts 2 1/2 years ago and it is still working just fine after 3 or 4 thousand bullets & much smelting.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
16 May 2014
Pat, a tutorial on building a PID is a productive and needed one for the members here. Thank you,
Gary
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Pigslayer
posted this
16 May 2014
Here is the PID controller. It's a pretty smart cookie. These are about $25.00 shipped on ebay. Some vendors try to sell this same unit for a whole lot more so if you get one on ebay it pays to filter through the items. I ordered one today and it will be here next Wednesday.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
16 May 2014
The wiring diagram. It's pretty simple in that it shows where to hook up Incoming Power (Terminals 1/2), Solid State Relay (SSR)(Terminals 3/4) & Thermocouple (TC)(Terminals 7/8. It has terminals to hook up one alarm (AL1). There's really no need for alarm either visual (indicator light) or buzzer. The unit will have two indicator lights which will light when the unit is turned on whether in bypass or PID control & another that monitors the opening & closing of the SSR. 
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
16 May 2014
Here is the Solid State Relay(SSR). Basicly it's a switch controlled by the PID to allow 120V to flow to your pot.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
17 May 2014
This is a heat sink that the SSR mounts to. It dissipates heat generated by the SSR. SSR,s have been known to get a little warm. I use a little silicon heat transfer paste between the SSR & Heat Sink. It makes for rapid heat transfer.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
17 May 2014
This is the high temp thermocouple. Range -100 to +1250 degrees centigrade.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
17 May 2014
I found a couple of neon indicator lamps along with a single pole/double throw switch in my shop that I will use on this project. Note the “sta-kon” ends that I use for each. I crimp them on, then solder them followed by shrink tubing insulation.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
17 May 2014
Pat, everything looks nice and beefy to handle the wattage, that is a good hefty relay at 25 Amps.
Gary
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mike0841
posted this
17 May 2014
You really don't need a heatsink as the most wattage drawn by the pots (RCBS 800Watt) will not draw more than 6.75 amps. You can use the heat transfer paste between the SSR and the case (unless it's plastic). That's what I did with mine (aluminum case) and can feel no heat even after 4 hours of use. If it was going to operate at 9 amp or higher I would use the heatsink.
Mike CBA Webmaster
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Pigslayer
posted this
17 May 2014
You really don't need a heatsink as the most wattage drawn by the pots (RCBS 800Watt) will not draw more than 6.75 amps. You can use the heat transfer paste between the SSR and the case (unless it's plastic). That's what I did with mine (aluminum case) and can feel no heat even after 4 hours of use. If it was going to operate at 9 amp or higher I would use the heatsink.
Mike
CBA Webmaster
Mike,
You are absolutely right but . . . one of those heat sinks is dirt cheap and who knows what wattage appliance this unit will be hooked up to in the future? An ounce of prevention = . . . . . . . . . . . I think I pay about a buck or two for a heatsink.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
17 May 2014
Pat, everything looks nice and beefy to handle the wattage, that is a good hefty relay at 25 Amps.
Gary Gary, The SSR's that I've used are all the same physical size no matter the wattage. I have some 50A SSR's in my service truck that look identical except for the amperage. I get the 25A SSR's 'cause they are so readily available. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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James S
posted this
18 May 2014
I just may need to build this PID. Pat did you say you were getting together kits?
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Pigslayer
posted this
18 May 2014
I just may need to build this PID. Pat did you say you were getting together kits?
James,
No, I'm not putting kits together. But . . . I am willing to help point you in the right direction as to parts needed to build one or if one may be mechanically/electrically challenged I will build you one. I'm not out to make a buck . . . just to help others. As far as making one for CBA members, I will do them one at a time & at my own pace. I am currently working on one for Gary (Onandaga).
But . . . if you are handi with your hands you will have no problem putting one together. The thing is that you don't have to be a rocket scientist to build one of these . . . just the right information.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
19 May 2014
PID controller arrived today.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
19 May 2014
Pat,
Please keep in mind discussing setting up, adjusting and operating steps at some point.
Gary
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Pigslayer
posted this
19 May 2014
Gary, I will once I get all the parts & begin assembly. For now I need to illustrate & identify each part & what it's function is. The actual programming of the unit is incredibly simple. It simply involves setting the temperature desired. The PID does the rest. But . . . that will come later. you're gonna love this gadget!
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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James S
posted this
20 May 2014
Pat. My past is DoD Electrical R&D. A list of necessary parts is most likely all I need. With specs of course.
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Pigslayer
posted this
20 May 2014
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.Pat. My past is DoD Electrical R&D. A list of necessary parts is most likely all I need. With specs of course.
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Pigslayer
posted this
20 May 2014
Pigslayer:
Your class is admirable
Thank you. If only everyone would just help each other.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
20 May 2014
Thermocouple was in the mail upon my coming home from work. Note that the connectors are both blue & red. Being that this thermocouple comes from China, the Red spade connector indicates positive (+) & of course the Blue spade connector indicates (-). It seems that manufacturers of different origin have their own color codes. Keep that in mind.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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vmwilson
posted this
20 May 2014
Not too serious if you hook em' up backwards first time. Hold the tip of the probe in your hands and the temperature should show an increase. If it doesn't you'll just have to reverse the leads.
Mike
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Pigslayer
posted this
21 May 2014
Not too serious if you hook em' up backwards first time. Hold the tip of the probe in your hands and the temperature should show an increase. If it doesn't you'll just have to reverse the leads.
You got it!
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
24 May 2014
OK I'm back. Sorry, had to take time out to go to work. LOL I started working on the PID enclosure this evening. I'm using 20ga. galvanized sheet metal that I had lying around. The whole idea of this tutorial is for those on a budget/fixed income so making do with salvaged materials, i.e. wire, switches, idiot lights etc. is perfectly acceptable. I mean Hey, we're not building a piano! The enclosure I am making measures 5” wide x 6” long x 3” high. Plenty enough room for all of the components. I'm making it a little smaller than my original as space is limited on most benches. I've seen guys take an old power supply out of a PC, gut it of everything except for the switch & the cooling fan. Install the components & use the existing switch & cooling fan. Voila! So any way you'll see in my attached picture the bottom portion of the enclosure. I will make the 1 - piece cover & sides later. My next step is to make all my cutouts for the PID, receptacle input & output & drill holes for the switch, fuse holder & indicator lights. Yes, I will be putting rubber feet on this unit. The purple color on the inside of the enclosure is just layout dye. It cleans right off with lacquer thinner.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
24 May 2014
Another view.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
24 May 2014
Another view.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
24 May 2014
Preliminary fit for PID, indicator lights & switch. Yes, the looks a little rough at this stage butfter the layout dye is cleaned off & it's painted it'll look much more presentable.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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mike0841
posted this
26 May 2014
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pat i.
posted this
26 May 2014
Nice catch Mike. I got a PM saying things were going south in this thread so instead of asking for calmer heads to prevail just deleted the issue. Makes things much easier that way.
Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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Pigslayer
posted this
26 May 2014
Nice catch Mike. I got a PM saying things were going south in this thread so instead of asking for calmer heads to prevail just deleted the issue. Makes things much easier that way.
Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.Guess I missed it. Sorry, been busy working on Gary's PID. Can only imagine what it was about. (Not really). Glad I didn't see it. Thanks Mike.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
26 May 2014
Made the top cover a few minutes ago.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
26 May 2014
Primed it.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
26 May 2014
Enclosue bottom masked & painted. Yes, I have it upside down.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
26 May 2014
Looking pretty busy in that little box.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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JSH
posted this
28 May 2014
Thanks for putting this up. If doesn't have a carburator or spark plugs I hate it. Besides if you can't fix it with a hammer, it has to be electrical. Jeff
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Pigslayer
posted this
28 May 2014
Thanks for putting this up. If doesn't have a carburator or spark plugs I hate it. Besides if you can't fix it with a hammer, it has to be electrical.
Jeff
LOL You're very welcome. Very soon I'm going to make a wiring diagram & post it. It will be a very simple one. With no indicator lamps. Gonna keep it straight forward with a materials list. You can use your imagination for a enclosure. It most certainly isn't rocket science.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Brodie
posted this
28 May 2014
Pat, I don't think that we can thank you enough for your time and efforts in this endeavor. You are a true gentleman. Brodie
B.E.Brickey
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Pigslayer
posted this
28 May 2014
Pat, I don't think that we can thank you enough for your time and efforts in this endeavor.
You are a true gentleman.
Brodie
Thank You Sir . . . but it is my pleasure. I get tremendous pleasure from helping others. No, I'm not being noble. It is a gift to me to give to others.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
28 May 2014
Just waiting for the power output receptacle & then it will be ready for test. It came out pretty nice actually. Nice forest green color. Not too shabby for some old galvanized sheet metal that has been lying around the basement for five years with some leftover rustoleum primer & forest green paint. Pat.jpg?width=690&upscale=false” alt=)
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
01 June 2014
Programming the unit for temperature. On the front of the PID you will see two readouts . . . upper & lower. The top is the temperature being read by the PID. The lower is the “set” temperature. This is the temeperature that the user has programmed into the PID. This unit is in centigrade only. Centigrade conversion is available online. On the bottom of the PID there are four buttons. Second from the left (A/T) is the button used to put the unit into programming mode. Pushing this will make one of the digits on the bottom readout begin to flash. Now, use the up & down arrow buttons to to change number up or down (0-9). Pushing the A/T button again moves the cursor to the next digit. Adjust that the same way with the up or down arrow buttons. Continue this until all four digits are set to the temperature desired. I.E. 345.7. Upon completing that push the “SET” button. The unit is now programmed. Have fun. 
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
01 June 2014
Pat, the programming instructions are simpler than I thought. Thanks.
Gary
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Pigslayer
posted this
01 June 2014
Gary, Just tested your PID in casting some 252 gr. .45 cal. bullets. Once the mold was up to temp the bullets came out nicely formed & shiny . . . repeatedly. The temp held to within 2 degrees C.. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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onondaga
posted this
01 June 2014
Pat.that is very encouraging. My one mold that gives me the most thermal grief is a 50 cal 340 gr plain base RCBS for my .500 S&W rifle and of course all my 6 cavity and Buckshot molds!!!
Gary
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Pigslayer
posted this
01 June 2014
Pat.that is very encouraging. My one mold that gives me the most thermal grief is a 50 cal 340 gr plain base RCBS for my .500 S&W rifle and of course all my 6 cavity and Buckshot molds!!!
Gary I cast 300 grainers for my .444 Marlin & my .45 Colt without a hitch. You'll just have to play & find your sweet spot. I have yours programmed for 345 (653 degrees Fahrenheit) degrees celcius right now & it is working fine.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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JSH
posted this
01 June 2014
How long is it taking to get the mold up to temp and start dropping good bullets? I ask this because I think a lot of us go to hot trying to get going in to much of a hurry. Jeff
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
02 June 2014
jSH, good temp control with the PID will help. I plan to set temp 100 Deg. F. Above tested alloy fluidus as that is an ideal temp for casting. I expect pouring into an cold 2 cavity to take 3 to 5 pours to get mold up to temp with pot at ideal. Dipping closed mold end and sprue cutter tip into melt about 25 to 35 seconds can also put your mold temp right on if you get it right....then the first pour is good.
Gary
Attached Files
JSH
posted this
02 June 2014
Gary I quit with the mold dipping quite a few years ago and went with a hot plate I made from an old electric skillet. I stack ingots on one side and what ever molds I am using on the other. Ingots seem to keep it from cycling so much. I try to keep notes on all my molds of what they seem to like and dislike. My comments on running melt at a some what to high temp comes from hearing and seeing guys run up pretty high on temps and then just leave it there. And it climbs through the roof as time goes by. I know of one local guy that cranks his pot up to the max and the. Turns it down after it hits the temp he wants. Myself, I have not changed the setting on my lee pot in a long time. Now have an rcbs pot. Jeff
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
02 June 2014
I am in favor of tight temp controls. I don't start at full knob open on Lee pots, they go well over 800 F. and at that temp Tin oxidizes very rapidly upon any exposure to air and will be a loss effecting your alloy formula and casting fill out quality.
I also use the reduction fluxing method with a fiery flux and rubbing surface Tin oxides down into the pot that will return some Tin oxide back to Tin in the pot alloy. It is not perfect but it greatly helps restore Tin losses if you do it well.
Gary
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
02 June 2014
jSH, good temp control with the PID will help. I plan to set temp 100 Deg. F. Above tested alloy fluidus as that is an ideal temp for casting. I expect pouring into an cold 2 cavity to take 3 to 5 pours to get mold up to temp with pot at ideal. Dipping closed mold end and sprue cutter tip into melt about 25 to 35 seconds can also put your mold temp right on if you get it right....then the first pour is good.
Gary
I'm with you on that Gary. Sometimes I dip my mold and sometimes I warm the mold gently with a propane torch. Whichever works. Nothing wrong with the hotplate method at all but the electricity in my little shop is already taxed with only a 20A circuit.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
02 June 2014
I am in favor of tight temp controls. I don't start at full knob open on Lee pots, they go well over 800 F. and at that temp Tin oxidizes very rapidly upon any exposure to air and will be a loss effecting your alloy formula and casting fill out quality.
I also use the reduction fluxing method with a fiery flux and rubbing surface Tin oxides down into the pot that will return some Tin oxide back to Tin in the pot alloy. It is not perfect but it greatly helps restore Tin losses if you do it well.
Gary Note: When using the PID to control your pot it is a good idea to turn the “Pot Control” full open to give the PID full control. Your PID unit will have two switch modes: PID control or bypass leaving the Pot thermostat to control it. Your switch positions are “down” for PID & “up” for bypass. Center position is of course . . . “off". Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
vmwilson
posted this
02 June 2014
You guys maybe cast larger volume/moulds than I but my setup keeps 2 DC's completely busy. Note ingot warming shelves on the pots. Top pot feeds bottom hot metal and easily keeps up with things. Bottom PID controlled. Little gizmo by pot shines a bright light on the sprue hole. I prefer the stream centers the sprue hole and now I can always see it well. Setup has evolved over the years from numerous suggestions in articles and of course a couple casting sites.
Mike
Attached Files
JSH
posted this
03 June 2014
That is a rig I almost built. Read a fair bit on them and still think it is a good set up. The little box with what looks like a PVC elbow is a light? Jeff
Attached Files
vmwilson
posted this
03 June 2014
That is a rig I almost built. Read a fair bit on them and still think it is a good set up.
The little box with what looks like a PVC elbow is a light?
Jeff
It is a PVC elbow and contains a 12v LED powered by an old 9v adaptor which is plenty bright.
Mike
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Pigslayer
posted this
03 June 2014
vmwilson, you definitely have a nice setup!
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
05 June 2014
Pat, I found free online software to convert Fahrenheit to Celsius. Just enter degrees F. and click Convert. This saves using a calculator and is very fast:
Gary
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
09 June 2014
Attached you will find the instructions for both programming & pinouts for the MYPIN TA4 thru TA7 PID Temperature controller. The only difference between the TA4 & TA7 is the number of alarms you can hook up to it. I find that in controlling a lead pot the alarms are totally unnecessary. The MYPIN TA4 unit is all you'll need . . . unless you like bells & whistles. I know that they will seem a little confusing at first as you will need the PID in your hand to accompany them. Feel free to ask questions.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
09 June 2014
Instructions Pg.2
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
10 June 2014
This sounds great Pat, I will give it the first try with the RCBS 340 gr 50 cal bullet mold for my .500S&W rifle and use Lyman #2 Alloy; that RCBS mold gives me headaches...I am out of those bullets and need to cast and load 200!!!
I was planning on my usual 650 F. / 344 C, for certified #2 alloy but if you have a recommendation for this large fat bullet in #2 alloy let me know.
Gary
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
10 June 2014
I have yours set for 345C. Give that a try.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
11 June 2014
Pat, I downloaded and printed the 2 PDF instruction sheets. Just fine.
Gary
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
11 June 2014
Pat, Package just arrived in fine shape. I will be testing. Thank you so much!
Gary
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
11 June 2014
You are very welcome. Have fun.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
13 June 2014
I have run my Lee 4-20 several times with the PID control you sent. It was straight forward to change from Celsius to Fahrenheit degrees following the instructions. The unit is running well.
My lack of general knowledge on PID was what slowed me down running the device. Of course, I started searching the internet in addition to our personal messaging to get to know the device better and how it works to understand the programming options better. I over think stuff and made this more difficult than needed.
The unit adapts by itself and begins to adjust cycles to a good tuning with smaller and smaller temperature swings as the unit gets used to the job it is performing.
One article I found helped me understand how PID works and shed light on basic programming. It is a PDF file and may be saved or printed. Others may find this helpful too:
http://www.omega.com/temperature/Z/pdf/z115-117.pdf
Gary
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
13 June 2014
I am glad the unit is working out for you. I have found that the MYPIN PID units are pretty much plug & play at factory default settings. Your unit is easily repairable should there be a failure with any part in the future. But I have had mine for over two years without a hitch. A new MYPIN PID unit can be had for as cheap as $19.00 shipped. The “K” type high temp probe for $7.00 shipped. A new 25A SSR for about $5.00 shipped. For the rest of the stuff go to Radio Shack. I doubt that you will ever have any issues with the SSR in that it is a 50A USA made unit. I had a number of them on my truck left over from a job we did at work last year. In closing & I say this to all: You can build or have one of these for cheap. No, I'm no god like creature of infinite knowledge nor am I a PID guru. But I know how to build one & make it work. If anyone here needs help in building or finding parts I will help. And no . . . it doesn't have to be aesthetically pleasing. It just has to work.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
15 June 2014
Building another PID. I have enough parts for this & another one. Why? Heck, I don't know . . . 'Cause it's fun and maybe someone else will want one.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Brodie
posted this
15 June 2014
Pat; If you are looking for a reason to build another PID I would like to have one. Just tell me how much and how to send the funds. Brodie
B.E.Brickey
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Pigslayer
posted this
16 June 2014
Pat; If you are looking for a reason to build another PID I would like to have one. Just tell me how much and how to send the funds.
Brodie
Got one on the bench that I'm finishing up. It's got your name on it. Send be your addy. I'll send you a PM.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
16 June 2014
OK Old Coot . . . this Bud's for you.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
16 June 2014
Another
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
16 June 2014
Another. Waiting on the trapezoid receptacle for input power.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
badgeredd
posted this
17 June 2014
Pat,
Do you know of a commercially made enclosure of about the same dimensions as your home made ones?
The Radio Shack in my home town just closed, so if you know of an enclosure, it would save me some gasoline and leg work.
Edd
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gonzbob
posted this
17 June 2014
In regards to an enclosure, I gutted an old PC power supply and use it for my enclosure. I kept the on/off switch and the power cable. Nothing fancy but it worked. Bob
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
17 June 2014
Pat,
Do you know of a commercially made enclosure of about the same dimensions as your home made ones?
The Radio Shack in my home town just closed, so if you know of an enclosure, it would save me some gasoline and leg work.
Edd
You might try Allied Electronics online as they have a lot of that stuff. You can find them on ebay too. An electrical supply house will carry a lot of enclosures. Look on amazon. BUD Industries makes some nice NEMA 1 sheet metal enclosures without knockouts in the size you want for about $10.00 + shipping.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
06 July 2014
Here is a wiring diagram of an as built PID. Now mind you, the pinouts/teminal definitions can be different on different brands of controllers.So pay attention. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
07 July 2014
Well Brodie (Old Coot), your PID is on the way & should be there by Friday. I hope that it serves you well & remember, if there are any problems, please yell! I was glad to make it for you. Pat
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Brodie
posted this
07 July 2014
Thank You Pat; I am sure that it will work wonderfully. I got your pm with the tracking number, and I can hardly wait for it to get here. Brodie
B.E.Brickey
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
07 July 2014
To All, I am more than happy to fabricate a PID for any member of CBA. I mean member, as in CBA member. The cost of material including including shipping is about $75.00 + about $25.00 in labor. Labor equals about $5.00 per hr.. Give me ashout.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Brodie
posted this
17 July 2014
I was right the new PID works beautifully. Thanks again Pat! By the way the pittance you asked for is on the way. I feel like it should be double that. Brodie
B.E.Brickey
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Pigslayer
posted this
17 July 2014
I was right the new PID works beautifully. Thanks again Pat!
By the way the pittance you asked for is on the way. I feel like it should be double that.
Brodie
You are very welcome Brodie. Happy to do it for you. If there are questions please ask.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
17 July 2014
You know people, I've been thinking. Many of the members here are on a fixed income i.e. Social Security at 62 years of age. And I'll just bet that a few of you would like to have a PID controller for your lead pot but can't afford one. If you're in that financial position & you want a PID, please let me know. I'll make you one at cost which will be right around $75.00 shipped (continental US). No, I don't want to see your bank statement! If you are in a better financial position the cost will be $100.00 shipped (continental US). Just send me a PM.
Pat Reynolds
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
27 July 2014
Several members here wanted me to assemble PID's for the. The parts are arriving & I've been busy laying out the boxes for the panel mount components. I found a nice AL enclosure made by BUD industries that will house everything nicely & very reasonably priced. If I make any more units I will go ahead & make a pattern but for now I'm laying them out individualy. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
27 July 2014
Rear View.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
onondaga
posted this
27 July 2014
These look and work great Pat. Mine is chugging right along. Great work!
Gary
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
28 July 2014
These look and work great Pat. Mine is chugging right along. Great work!
Gary
Thanks Gary!
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Bohica793
posted this
31 July 2014
I just had a PID controller, relay and thermocouple drop in my lap this past week and was wonder how I could put them to use. Thank you ever so much for this visual tutorial! I will be referring back to this several times as I try to actually build this and attach it to my Lee bottom pour.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
31 July 2014
I just had a PID controller, relay and thermocouple drop in my lap this past week and was wonder how I could put them to use. Thank you ever so much for this visual tutorial! I will be referring back to this several times as I try to actually build this and attach it to my Lee bottom pour.
Don't be afraid to ask questions!
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Bohica793
posted this
02 August 2014
Just to follow up.....IT LIVES!
Made a trip to Radio shack for switch, wire, connectors and LEDs. Then sat down in the shop area of the garage for a couple of hours and wired everything together. The AC side of the PID was easy but I had to fiddle a bit to find the proper incantation to make the SSR trip correctly. Finally got that figured out and it works perfectly. Set it for 650 and watched it hold within 8 degrees either way while I cast up some 405 grain 45/70 rounds. Now I have to find an enclosure and mount everything up all nice and pretty instead of the FrankenPID I have right now.
Thanks again Pigslayer! I would not have had either the motivation or the information necessary to accomplish this with out you. :dude:
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
02 August 2014
The long awaited thermocouples came today. Just finished one up. I like the aluminum enclosure that I found on Amazon. It makes for a nice compact little unit. Tested this unit with my old LEE 10lb. bottom pour & it worked just fine. Set it for 643 degrees F. which is what I have mine set for. 
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
02 August 2014
Rear view.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Bohica793
posted this
02 August 2014
Do you have a link to the enclosure on Amazon? Also, where do you get your male/female AC connectors?
Attached Files
John Alexander
posted this
02 August 2014
Anybody have any nifty ideas for an adjustable dodad for positioning the thermostat in the pot. John
Attached Files
vmwilson
posted this
03 August 2014
Not adjustable but holds mine 1/2” in and 1/2” from pot bottom. Aluminum scrap pieces I had on hand.
Mike
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Pigslayer
posted this
03 August 2014
For any of you making your own PID this is the amperage rating for the following bottom pour pots: LEE 20 LB. - 700 watts @ 5.8 Amps LEE 10 LB. - 500 watts @ 4.16 Amps Saeco - 1000 watts @ 8.3 Amps. RCBS - 800 watts @ 6.6 Amps. Lyman - 850 watts @ 7.08 Amps.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
03 August 2014
Do you have a link to the enclosure on Amazon? Also, where do you get your male/female AC connectors?
Just look up BUD Industries # CU-3008-A. Size is 5” wide x 7” long x 3” high.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Bohica793
posted this
03 August 2014
Finally found what I needed and ordered. It should be here by Thursday and I can actually mount this beast into a case.
Attached Files
mike0841
posted this
03 August 2014
Anybody have any nifty ideas for an adjustable dodad for positioning the thermostat in the pot.
John
What type of pot do you have and what is the probe length?
Mike
Attached Files
mike0841
posted this
03 August 2014
This is the latest design probe holder. It is on my Lee Pro20 pot. It can be used for BP or ladle. 
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
03 August 2014
This is the latest design probe holder. It is on my Lee Pro20 pot. It can be used for BP or ladle.
That looks like a nice one. Could we have a side view?
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
mike0841
posted this
03 August 2014
This is my Lee Pro20 I only use for pistol boolits. BTW the PDI was the first I ever made and bought all the parts from Auber. Cost 118.00 shipped. Then I found out Amazon and eBay sold the same things much cheaper and as I am a “Prime” member on Amazon no shipping.
Attached Files
mike0841
posted this
03 August 2014
This is the RCBS that I modified for ladle pour only. The little 12v power supply on top of the PID is for my new project. I am building a dual PDI to control the pot and a hot plate to keep my ingots and my mold warm when needed. I also have a case mount 12v pyrometer to put in the new project to keep track of my mold temp ergo the PS. The orange thing to the left is the cheap handheld pyrometer I am using now.
Attached Files
Bohica793
posted this
07 August 2014
Just to follow-up -- This is the prototype “FrankenPID I built initially based on the schematics presented here and the parts I received in a care package. I am supposed to receive my female AC outlet today, so this should be complete assembled tonight.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
07 August 2014
You did a real nice job. You will want to connect your probe wires directly to the PID. otherwise your temp will be off.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Bohica793
posted this
07 August 2014
First time cutting aluminum with the Dremel. Actually, first time doing ANYTHING with a Dremel, so the holes are not perfect by any stretch but I will get better at it eventually.
Attached Files
vmwilson
posted this
07 August 2014
You did a real nice job. You will want to connect your probe wires directly to the PID. otherwise your temp will be off.
Mine has a “socket” in place so I can also plug in my luber heater when I size.
Mike
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Bohica793
posted this
07 August 2014
Mine will also once the parts arrive.....You did a real nice job. You will want to connect your probe wires directly to the PID. otherwise your temp will be off.
Mine has a “socket” in place so I can also plug in my luber heater when I size.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
08 August 2014
Been running a little behing but will start mailing them out this weekend. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
gary0529
posted this
31 August 2014
go here http://www.auberins.com/?mainpage=index&cPath=1
built mine for under $60 though it was 4 or 5 years back but the setup is still running just fine and holds temps within a 4 degree F range on my Lee pot
I do believe that I did have to run in to Radio Shack and get a relay or somesuch but that was 4 years ago and those things are NOT stored in my memory any longer :-))
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
03 September 2014
Well people. I have one waiting to ship to a customer (sorry so late James) & two more to build and it's getting close to hunting season. So if any holdouts want one of these PID's please speak up now. Otherwise it'll have to be after the 1st of the year. It's made me happy to be able to build these PID's for those who wanted them.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
James S
posted this
03 September 2014
That's OK Pat. I'm just glad I got in before hunting season!
Attached Files
James S
posted this
13 September 2014
Thanks Pat. Got the PID a couple of days ago been off working. Looks real good. Unless I got some time off I won't be able to check it out right away. But I hope the first project I'll use it with is my rebuild on the 38 S&W 'Victory' revolver!
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
13 September 2014
you are very welcome James. If any issues arise feel free to contact me. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Jackpine
posted this
17 September 2014
Hey Pat,
I missed the mail pickup on Monday, but it got off yesterday.
Jackpine
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Pigslayer
posted this
18 September 2014
Your fine. There was no hurry. I'll be working on yours & others this weekend. Wanted to get more done sooner but been busy at work during the day & taking some night courses for work at the local community college. Busy, busy. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
04 October 2014
As of late I have been remiss in getting out the PID's promised & am sorry for that. Have been working 12 hrs. per day & going to school nights at the local community college. But I'm back at it & will get the PID's ordered out soon. Pat Reynolds
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
05 October 2014
Bill & Mike, yours will be going out this week as I just finished testing them about an hour ago. Steve, sorry about the delay but I havn't forgotten you. Frank, I'm waiting on the enclosure for yours. It's been backordered. Go figure. Pat Reynolds
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Jackpine
posted this
05 October 2014
Hey Pat,
Got your message. Looking forward to using the new unit.
Thanks again,
Jackpine
Attached Files
EdS
posted this
14 October 2014
Hi Pat: My hat is off to you for what you are doing to help fellow casters. I'm ready to build myself a PID controller, but can't find a parts list in the thread. Did you put one together? Thanks, Ed
Attached Files
vmwilson
posted this
14 October 2014
Hi Pat: My hat is off to you for what you are doing to help fellow casters. I'm ready to build myself a PID controller, but can't find a parts list in the thread. Did you put one together? Thanks, Ed
Don't want to hijack your message but the main elements are: PID, K type TC (thermocouple, SSR (solid state relay) and something to put them into. It's also recommended to use a heat sink with the SSR.
Mine cost me probably too much but I don't regret it. It's got the bells and whistles. Liked it so much I just ordered parts off ebay to make one for my feeder pot. Looks like I'll have about $54 in it when I'm finished and I built this box of wood with metal front and rear. I'm sure it'll work fine once it's done, though it'll read Celcuis instead of Farenheit. Once I set it it'll likely never be changed anyhow.
If “Pat” doesn't get back to you PM me and I'll tell you what I used and what the new one will be using.
Mike
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Jackpine
posted this
15 October 2014
Hey Pat,
My mailman delivered my PID yesterday. Set it up today and did a short session, just to try it out. Work fine.
Thanks so much,
Jackpine
Attached Files
Pentz
posted this
16 October 2014
Pat, mine came in the mail today as well. If it decides to really stop raining tomorrow I will fire it up. Thanks!! Mike
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
29 October 2014
Just want to say “Thanks” for the good plugs concerning the PID's that I made for you fellas. I'm overjoyed to do it for you. It really makes me feel good to do things for others. Got one sitting here to go out to a guy in England. Been down with a nasty sinus infection so my butt has been on the sofa. More members have asked me to build one for them when I get time & I will. I want to assure you guys that I'm not out to make money. That's not what life is about. Life is about giving & sharing & I learned that the hard way. After the first of the year I'm going to start offering a lube heater for the Lyman #45 & #450 Lubersizers if anyone is interested. I have built two for myself & they work quite well as they have a rheostat (dimmer switch) to adjust temperature. If you would like to build one for yourself I'll be glad to help you out with parts list & plans. Just give me a little time.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
10 November 2014
Here's one for a member in the UK.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pigslayer
posted this
10 November 2014
Another shot.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Pigslayer
posted this
11 November 2014
Very nice pro looking job !!
Thank you sir.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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James Nicholson
posted this
06 December 2014
Just wanted to say THANK YOU Pigslayer. I followed your directions, found doing a google search on Cast Boolits, and read all of them. I just finished building my PID from your instructions. I have less than $60.00 in it and I now make bullets better than ever.
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Pigslayer
posted this
07 December 2014
You are very welcome James.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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motorcarman
posted this
28 December 2014
THANKS FOR THIS TREAD. I built a PID controller for an electric KILN to do some heat treating a few years ago. The controller was a Centigrade ONLY unit but I was reading this post and thought I would build another for my lead melting pot.
The newer MYPIN TA4 are C or F configurable so that makes it easier for us in the U.S. as most info is listed in FAHRENHEIT.
I just wanted to thank PIGSLAYER for a very informative list of pages and pics.
I didn't think of a bypass switch until I read these posts.
GOOD IDEA.
I don't do much posting but I do a lot of reading on this forum.
Thanks again.
bob gauff
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Pigslayer
posted this
29 December 2014
I'm getting ready to convert my smoker to electric & then build a PID for it too.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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TRKakaCatWhisperer
posted this
29 December 2014
I'm getting ready to convert my smoker to electric & then build a PID for it
too.
Are you going to add a probe to insert INTO the turkey to tell you when it's done?
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Pigslayer
posted this
29 December 2014
Most store bought turkeys have their own pop upThermometer. I was thinking about brisket & ribs.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Fg1
posted this
09 January 2015
Pat , PID got here safe and sound ! Thank you , will have to give it a test drive and see if I can figure it out !
Thanks, Frank
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stevebarrett
posted this
25 January 2015
PID now crossed the Atlantic and works brilliantly! Many thanks Pat, and also for finding a British electrical plug to go with it.
Steve
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Pigslayer
posted this
26 January 2015
PID now crossed the Atlantic and works brilliantly! Many thanks Pat, and also for finding a British electrical plug to go with it.
Steve Took a little searching to find the UK plug. I think that I found it on Amazon.Have fun,Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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cheatermk3
posted this
27 January 2015
Mine got here Friday--it looks great! Need to finish a project before I can use it but so far Pat has been great too so I'm not worried.
I'll be sure to post when I fire up my furnace!
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Bongo Boy
posted this
02 February 2015
I'm definitely interested in going this way, but it's a matter of where to put everything. I'd like a vertical standing cabinet with pot, controller, mold storage area underneath, place for a pre-heater, cooling area for the mold, and hey, why not throw in an IR temperature sensor to display the mold temperature as it cools. I envision the whole assembly having 4 heavy duty casters that can be deployed (when not in use of course) to relocate the entire unit--then you basically jack it up on solid feet when ready to go.
What usually happens to me with these projects is I look at individual components (the PIDs are $10-20 usually) and think it won't cost much. By the time you get switches, connectors and enclosures, now you're at 10-20 times the cost of that PID and SSR.
Still worth it, IMO.
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Pigslayer
posted this
03 February 2015
Be careful as to who you buy from. Even the chinese have knockoffs as I have recently found out & due that know what to look for. The MyPin TA4 is a good unit and can be had for $21.00 to $24.00 PP. But there are knockoffs for less. I got burned on two units as they sent no power to the SSR. I buy from only one vendor now.
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Bongo Boy
posted this
03 February 2015
Great tip, thanks. I've been researching these low-end units and they are simply amazing for the price. For example, several models (most) include a second control output that's ON/OFF, and I can see where that just might be useful for a circulation motor, a ventilation fan or just to control an easy-read indicator light. I was also surprised to find that some provide enough SSR control output to control up to 4 SSRs, which could add some options for added current requirements. Being able to run the PID itself off 240VAC, get the SSRs that can handle ungodly amperage at 240VAC for $20 bucks, it just amazing. Back when I wanted to build a recirculating mashing system (brewing) this stuff was 5 times that much as I recall. It's packaging it all where the guys selling the turn-key setups are really providing the help. I can easily see the pot heater, the mold warmer/cooler, ventilation fan, pot circulator and a bratwurst warmer all being managed from one convenient control panel. :)
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motorcarman
posted this
21 February 2015
I finally built my controller and installed the thermocouple. The temp probe connector on the back of the controller box only changed the temp reading a degree or 2 from a DIRECT connection on the PID so I will leave it that way. It makes it easier to disconnect for moving it or cleaning. Thanks again for all the great ideas!!!!! bob
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Bongo Boy
posted this
21 February 2015
A good-looking setup! Looks like you haven't used it yet, though--I'm concerned about meeting production goals. :)
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motorcarman
posted this
21 February 2015
Thanks.
Production goals will be forthcoming when the weather warms and I can open the shop doors for ventilation.
I still have boxes from PENN and RIMROCK so I am not in a bind yet!!
I'm still collecting material from local tires shops, eBay and RotoMetals.
I also set up an angled steel plate in my lower pasture to trap the lead into the ground for collection, MY way of recycling.
bob
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Pigslayer
posted this
21 February 2015
and the front
bob Nice looking unit! I like it!
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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durant7
posted this
28 February 2016
PID experts. I am having some issues with my temp probe. I went the eBay/China route and got a MYPIN, Temp probe and SSR all for under $40 shipped. The temp probe however was a RTD type 3 wire with a range from -58F to +752F. Ops. Well, once I learned the importance of getting the PID set up for a PT100 and the added jumper complexity figured out for a RTD, I was good to go. Boiling water it was about 24 degrees low. Ice bath....9 degrees high.
Now, after my first melt and finding that 890F on the PID was giving me the best temp...hummm.....I see I must be super human because room temp is now 630F. I suspect I have killed my probe.
I am looking to buy a second probe and figured I would solicit some advice. It would seem that high temp PT100 sensors are not available. But K type are. I have not found a long probe type K that would handle the temp range I am looking for.
Suggestions welcome.
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mike0841
posted this
28 February 2016
durant7 - I buy all of my probes at Amazon. Below is the one I use the most. It's 100mm long (4") and with my holder sits approx 1” from the bottom of the pot. I use them in Lee and RCBS pots. So far I have used 14 and none has failed.
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SUPERKNUCK
posted this
27 March 2016
Thanks for sharing. Great pictures and narrative. Very glad I joined the CBA. This was the very reason I signed up,for clear and honest help. Thanks Randall
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SUPERKNUCK
posted this
27 March 2016
My many thanks were directed mainly towards Pigslayer, then Holy Crap I realized there was 10 pages of information. I am going to be busy reading for quite some time. I give a genuine thanks to all of you that have provided such detailed information. Happy Easter,Randall
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358156hp
posted this
28 March 2016
Try K type thermocouples from Auber Instruments
I have a couple of Chinese TCs that didn't make it a year, and that soured me on going the route of the lowest price.
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