Kit Build: Traditions Frontier Flintlock

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  • Last Post 22 December 2014
onondaga posted this 04 December 2014

Building : Traditions Frontier Flint Rifle

Here is my completed rifle, but the tutorial build goes though all my steps.

The first part to fit to the wood is the lock plate. After removing about .010” all around the factory inlet the lock plate dropped right in. This was file work and took 1 hour to get a fit that allowed the lock to easily drop in or out cleanly and easily. This fit allows room for wood finish.

Next the side plate washers and screws. The screw holes in the wood were fuzzy. I filed out the fuzz and checked alignment of the holes to the lock. After screw trial, one hole had to be slightly widened about .010” and then the screws both easily installed to hold the side plate washers on. This took about 1 hour and the screws were lightly snugged to keep the parts together.

Next the tang is fit. The tang literally fell in, but the hole through the stock for the tang screw was fuzzy. I filed out the fuzz. The screw then dropped right in but needs to be kept out till the trigger assembly is fit to the factory inlet.

Trigger fit required about .010” all around the inlet for an easy drop in drop out fit. The file work to the wood took a little over an hour but the screw went right in through the tang to the threaded hole in the trigger assembly. I lightly snugged up the screw to hold the parts together.

The next step says, “ fix trigger guard” Sounds simple, it is not.

To be continued

Gary  2 hours

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onondaga posted this 22 December 2014

Longone

I have tried lead sheet in several thicknesses but find I prefer leather. I think copper would crack the flints upon tightening the jaw screw as tight as I can with leather.

Gary

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Longone posted this 22 December 2014

Gary, looks like your just waiting for some snow to melt to give it a go. Have you tried lead or copper to hold the flints in the jaws?

Longone

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onondaga posted this 21 December 2014

Here are the Agate gunflints I got. I put one in the lock and it sparks great. You can see my new TC flintlock pan primer and my favorite tool I made for pressure flake work on the gunflints.

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onondaga posted this 14 December 2014

Longone

 Just a few inches snow at home but the range at my club is a boxed in pen and the snow is 2 feet there.

The lock sparks well and I am continuing to make some more gun flints. I have a lot of what is called “debitage” from my flint knapping hobby, that is the flakes, some large and some small from making other flint projects. I save the bigger flakes and they are different kinds of flint from America and around the globe. So I have an extensive inventory of rock suitable for gun flints.

Gary

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Longone posted this 14 December 2014

Rock and steel, gotta love it. How much snow do you have on the ground?

Longone

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onondaga posted this 14 December 2014

I had a chance to beat on some pieces of Onondaga Flint from my yard and got a gun-flint made to check out the frizzen and see what kind of spark the lock makes. The frizzen functions well and the steel is harder in use than I expected. The lock makes good sparks and likes the free from my yard local Onondaga flint just fine.

Gary

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delmarskid1 posted this 14 December 2014

Nice! Make 'er bang!

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pat i. posted this 14 December 2014

Nice work Gary it looks great.

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Brodie posted this 14 December 2014

That is beautiful work Gary. Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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Longone posted this 13 December 2014

Gary, Looks good, but winter isn't even here yet so you better run out and grab another one for the months ahead.

I ventured out today in search of cold blue for my project and I had to hit 3 gun stores before I found some. Sad that no store can carry any product today.

Good luck with it when you get to sight it in.

Longone

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onondaga posted this 13 December 2014

BUILD COMPLETED !!!!!!

Gary

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onondaga posted this 13 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

Hit a snag. On a trial assembly the ramrod binds on the Barrel Tenon and won't go past. The only way I can figure around that is to enlarge the Ramrod hole. I will have to devise something to do that. Maybe, a slotted dowel with sandpaper...I hope so. It only has to be enlarged beyond that point for about 3 inches. The hole will need to be 1/32” larger there.

I believe this is a flaw in the factory drilling of the stock for the ramrod hole.

The snag worked out fine...a little work with a round file did the job on the ramrod hole in just a few minutes...wheeeew!

Gary

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onondaga posted this 13 December 2014

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=6699>Longone

The TetraBlue can go all the way to black if you want that. I applied 4 times to my barrel, if you do it about 8 times it will go black. Every application gets darker but after each application you have to repeat the same steps, it is NOT fast. you have to rinse with water, rub gently with 0000 steel wool, degrease with denatured alcohol, dry and then apply the next application. Timing is important with the TetraGun, you have to time 60 seconds after application then immediately rinse and keep going coat by coat. At the 60 seconds, the metal surface flash dries to a haze. That haze has to be rinsed off with a clean towel and water, then the steel wool...etc.. till you get the color you want.

I like the color at 4 applications but you can go a lot darker if you wish. I could go back and DE-grease and make it darker if I want. The finished barrel picture is a flash picture and the barrel is much darker than it appears in the photo.

Gary

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Longone posted this 13 December 2014

The barrel came out very nice, is the Tetra blue more blue than black? In the pic it looks like a nice “blue” non streaky finish. I am hoping for a “Black Blue” which is most likely why I'll end up with Perma Blue or Super Blue. Now all I need to do is find some local so I don't have to pay more for shipping than the cost of the product.

Longone

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onondaga posted this 13 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

The finish was finalized on the barrel, barrel blued and all barrel parts fitted.

The bore at the muzzle was supported by a brass rod in a vice and the breech plug at the other end was supported on blocks. I used this support arrangement for both sanding and bluing. Pictures above are raw metal before sanding and blue.

Finished Barrel:

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onondaga posted this 13 December 2014

http://castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=6699>Longone

The barrel in my kit was nicely finished to about 200 grit. I completed the surface finish with 200 grit sanding pads today about 20 strokes on each flat refined the surface and removed a few minor scratches.

I have used Perma Blue before, but for this barrel I have used Tetra Gun blue, it is much darker and more scratch resistant than Permablue.

Gary.

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Longone posted this 12 December 2014

Gary,

Did you have to draw file the barrel? Or was it finished from Traditions less finish? Have you decided on a blueing product yet? I have looked at several, Perma Blue is what I have on hand and have tried it on some metal scraps. The results were really a Black blue, six coats were applied per the instructions. Birchwood Casey also has two other products which produce more of a blue than black finish (according to their site), Brownells also has Oxpho-blue which gets good reviews, and then there is Vans blueing.

So many choices so little time. BTW, I have about 4 1/2 hours in the trigger guard alone to get it cleaned up to the point that I wanted.

Longone

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onondaga posted this 12 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

The rear and front sights have been fitted, this took 2 hours.

Here it is in fully in position.

The front sight dovetail base was ground so that the sight will slide 1/2 the way in. The front sight will drifted to center after the barrel is blued.

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onondaga posted this 11 December 2014

Build continued

Stock finish is now at 6 coats hand rubbed TruOil, nearly completely filled and glass-like. That was 2 more hours work for 2 more coats with OOOO steel wool rubbing then oil rubbing and the stock is starting like to look like one of mine. The amber color of the Birchwood Casey TruOil has evened the color somewhat and the wood beauty is coming up. Four to six more coats will do the job. So, coats 1-4 were sanded 400 grit after dry and coats 5-6 steel wool rubbed to an even dull when dry. The remainder of coats will be steel wooled except the last coat will be gently wet rubbed with gauze, water and flours of pumice to a matte finish then final waxed with Johnson's Paste Wax.

Gary at 25 hours

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onondaga posted this 11 December 2014

BUILD CONTINUED

Under-rib:

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