I ordered a Lee two cavity .38” roundball mold on monday and Fedex delivered it today with some other stuff . So I cleaned it up and cast a few from straight WW's here at the shop and water dropped them .
0000 Buckshot
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Did you happen to put a mic on these? I wonder how they would run through a 380? I know you made them for a serious purpose, but their fun factor might be high too.
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Decided to cast some .380"/0000 today . Same as before straight WW's water quenched and I think I did about 100-110 . Also decided to roll some of them as I was casting kinda quick and was getting some torn sprue cuts . So I got a large piece of aluminum and a slightly smaller piece of steel .
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Did you happen to put a mic on these? I wonder how they would run through a 380? I know you made them for a serious purpose, but their fun factor might be high too.
They mic anywhere from .379"-.382” .
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Got home a bit early this afternoon so after I cut the grass I loaded six rounds of 2 7/8” 10 gauge with six pellets of 0000 Buck , 30 grains SR7625 , seven 9mm cases of Grex for buffer in the SP-10 wad . I also put 10 gauge over shot wads over these just to keep the crimp relatively flat . After I was done I took a candle and dripped a couple drops of wax in the top just to make sure none of the Grex sifted thru the minute cracks .
I tried them in both barrels of my circa 1884 Parker Grade 2 Top Lever Hammer #3 frame 10 gauge , my circa 1889 Parker EH #2 frame 10 gauge and my circa 1899 Parker EH #3 frame 10 gauge .
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Well I have enough loaded to shoot 6 of the 10 gauge guns both barrels and plan to do so from the bench Wednesday afternoon !
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Shot the 0000 in my Parker lifter 10 gauge , LC Smith Q2 10 gauge , Ithaca NID 10 gauge and my Parker top lever hammer 10 gauge yesterday evening !
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Something that might help........ I developed a 12 gauge #4 buck load quite a few years ago. The wad does make a difference. The ones for steel shot, even when slit halfway down usually made them a slug and slit all the way down didn't do any better than conventional wads, but Remington had a wad that was slit halfway down. That one thing made some very tight long range patterns for me. If you find one for the 10 gauge, please tell all of us.
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Something that might help........ I developed a 12 gauge #4 buck load quite a few years ago. The wad does make a difference. The ones for steel shot, even when slit halfway down usually made them a slug and slit all the way down didn't do any better than conventional wads, but Remington had a wad that was slit halfway down. That one thing made some very tight long range patterns for me. If you find one for the 10 gauge, please tell all of us.
I suspect of I go on and buy some already made 0000 from BPI the roundness and hardness will be better then what I've cast . So that in itself should help some also this stuff doesn't stack well at all . It would most likely do better with a Teflon wrap as opposed to the shotcup . But one of my parameters is to make all my lads the same with the exception of the size/number of pellets and the amount of filler . I also pretty much keep shots with this stuff inside 35 yards .
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Next week I'm going to cast some .440” balls and water quench . I also have some Hornady .440” roundballs . I think I'll load up maybe 6 of each and try them in my two Parker hammerless and the Parker top lever hammer gun . Still wish I could find a cheap .400” roundball mold as that would be 00000 .
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Shot a round each in my 1884 Parker 10 gauge hammer gun this evening with 0000 Buck !
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