INTIMATE SECRETS OF THE LYMAN 450 LUBRISIZER
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- Last Post 19 July 2009
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I think Jeff said it first, the pusher-upper thing is the actuating linkage. The only difference I can see is that the late model sizer has the handle hinged straight into the ram. This is going to be another good look into Joe's experience, interesting in there too!
Here's a way to place those sticky dies and not cross-thread the fine thread retaining nut: Use lighter oil, a penetrating oil to clean the lube off. Rem Oil spray, Kano Kroil, or Marvel Mystery Oil, WD-40, etc. Just pour it on and wipe down with a rag or cloth. It dissolves a great deal of lube and will clean threads as well. I use Rem Oil spray or Kano Kroil indiscriminately on dies, threads, everything. I use the spray oil over the trash can and have a rag and Q-tips gathered up ahead of time. The same light oil that you patch with immediately before you shoot can serve a double purpose.
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Shucks guys, all good info. Here's how I just seat gas checks only, rather than change all the adjustments to the stop nut on the bullet seating stop rod. Be sure the adjustment nut is located below the casting first. Then use some your range brass. I used a .270, cut at 1.25 inches from the mouth of the case. Discard the thicker head of the case as you won't be using that portion. Using your Dremel tool carefully cut away about a 1/3rd vertical slice from the part of the case that has the neck and shoulder.
Use a file to deburr and fine tune for length between the frame and the top of the rod and just snap it in place. To seat gas checks just give the handle a firm pull until you feel the resistance of gas check seater. I seat gas checks squarely before I size thus avoiding some of the tipped gas checks. Seat gas checks to your hearts content then pull the “gas check seater “ and start the lube/size process without having to readjust everything.
Don't try to size without pulling the “seater” as the brass casing will crush and spring out into the never land of the reloading room. (I have lost two of'm somewhere in there.)
The first two I made were from a .223 case but it was difficult to get on and off the rod. The .270 case works a little better and is not as difficult to place on and remove.
It is much cheaper than the Lyman part and to my way of thinking does every bit a good a job as the Lyman Gas Check seater. Just not as heavy duty.:lovecast:
(Midway Product #: 335653)( Lyman Manufacturer #: 2745881) (Cabelas - Lyman Gas Check Seater Item:9IS-210661)
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I have pushed leadshot into the sizing die lube holes at strategic places to steer lube where I wanted it. This works dandy if you feel like it's worth the time. The hard part is picking the little things out to do a differant bullet. I used this trick mainly for doing up large bunches of plain base pistol bullets. I'm sure I gave it up for a good reason.
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delmar, I like your tip of using vise grips to lock the shaft up so you can seat gaschecks.
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I seat gas checks on my 450 by putting a vise grip on the pin thingy that goes though the hollow other thing so that it doesn't move. Real quick fix and it works.
I aply case sizing lube to my bullets using a coffee can containing bits of towel soaked in same. In my case Wynn's motor honey. I just shake the works around and they go through the sizing die with a lot less effort. This is how I size cases as well.
I broke the handle off my 450 making 44's out of bevel base 45's. I had a lot more energy than molds in those days. I fixed it with washers and wire-feed welding. Those 44's shot like Billybedammned but who wants to go through that again.
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To change dies, I place the retaining nut on the die first, then install the whole assembly into the sizer. Doing this aligns the retaining nut with the female threads.
I've written this thing again and put it in ERRATA.
I've changed dies using this hint maybe 20 times, and I'm here to tell you that this is the best hint/suggestion that I can recall since my invention of wheels on luggage.
Changing dies this way keeps me from cross threading that nut, and just takes the aggravation out of the process.
Thank you, 454.
joe b.
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I've done the upgrade that Jeff mentioned on one of my 450's, it's well worth the effort.
To change dies, I place the retaining nut on the die first, then install the whole assembly into the sizer. Doing this aligns the retaining nut with the female threads.
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Hey and whats with the dig at Mr. Bill's single shot? Did one not treat you right sometime in the past?
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Just a note: Lyman offers an upgrade kit for the 450 that replaces the handle, ram, linkage and bolts with improved stronger parts. The upgrade is very simple to do and is realtively inexpensive and is around $20. It replaces the handle with one that is much stronger and doesn't require the brazing Joe has illustrated above. Also the die retaining nut and wrench can be purchased and are also affordable enough to keep spares on hand. You can also request an instruction guide for relaoding and bullet casting products for detailed parts diagrams when you order the upgrades. I have found them to be pretty pleasant to deal with and very knowledgeable with their products when I have called to order parts. You can contact Lyman via phone at 1-800-225-9626 or by visiting them on the web at http://www.lymanproducts.com
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I have had trouble starting the nut that locks the sizing die into the sizer due to the lube on the threads upon occasion. This happens when I have either lost the darn wrench or can't find it because of all the clutter on the bench.
The cure here is to drop in the sizing die, set the nut on top of the threads, bring the ram down onto the nut with a bit of pressure and turn the parts of the nut that stick out beyond the ram with a plyers. Crude but effective./images/emoticons/134.gif
I can't do that, it gives me the fantods to think about cross threading that stupid fine thread. I wipe off the die, the nut and the inside of the hole-too much lube makes the nut hard to start. Then I push the die in with the ram and fiddle with the nut. The Lyman lubrisizers are kluges, designed by the people who went on to design? the Ruger SS rifle. The Kluge boys.
joe b.
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I have had trouble starting the nut that locks the sizing die into the sizer due to the lube on the threads upon occasion. This happens when I have either lost the darn wrench or can't find it because of all the clutter on the bench. The cure here is to drop in the sizing die, set the nut on top of the threads, bring the ram down onto the nut with a bit of pressure and turn the parts of the nut that stick out beyond the ram with a plyers. Crude but effective./images/emoticons/134.gif
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The only time I bump anything is if I want a flat nose on a pointed blt for use in a lever action. Yoour info is very good and very interesting. However, I have gone to using a nose first push thru Lee die for all my gas check seating to dia that I want, and then using the Lyman for lube only. I realize it is an extra step, but one that I don't mind. Thanks for the thread!
1Shirt!:coffee
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Last picture. Looking for comments, additions, any necessary additions. Book construction goes on.
joe b.
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