FREECHEX

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  • Last Post 25 May 2010
codarnall posted this 11 October 2009

Many folks are making their own checks.  A fundamental principle is forcing deformable material on to a mandrel.  I make mandrels which are the shank diameter of the nominal bullet.  For instance .281 inches approximately for th 30 caliber bullet.  Steel blocks cast different than aluminum ones.  Then the bore diameter of the rifle say .308 for the 30 caliber family measured in the grooves.  Forget about the .311-12 you size the bullets at.  The notion here is to fill the bore, seal it from the plasma of gasses, metal vapors etc.  When swaging a metal about the mandrel then half the difference of the bore(groove) diameter and the shank diameter is the theoretical  maximum thickness of the material to use as a base metal.   The first constricting forces are the die a mandrel forces the base metal through.  That will be the outside diameter of the check (OD).   Nothing will bring the check to its inside diameter (ID) of the mandrel unless the approximately maximum thickness is used.  Here, about .014” for the 7.62mm family.  Now different materials have different memory issues.  Until the material is forced or actually extruded there will be a springing back effect.  .003-005” is not uncommon.  Snugness on the shank depends on how  thick the material is to deform the base metal to the mandrel diameter. Too thin and you have krinkling like a coke bottle cap. Way too thick and you have metal weakening and elongation and thinning with little memory or spring back as a result of extrusion.  The geometry of the anvil die,and the mandrel are just a starting points.  Selection of metal and thicknesses do take a little experimenting something that this whole hobby is all about. 

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CB posted this 25 May 2010

I tell ya, I have one of the FreeChex tools that Charlie sent me to try out. I must say that once you get used to how the tool works you can pop them out with ease. I am still waiting to get a small sheet of copper from the scrap place to try it on copper, but I am sure that in a pinch if one located a pop can along side the road, with one of these little jewels you could help to put some meat on the table!

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codarnall posted this 21 May 2010

No you sound like me a far as experiences are concerned, I don't need a job either! However I will experiment 'til the day I'm gone. I do, however, deny ever indicating one could not make checks using a reloading press. I merely continue to say, “Charlie will not", and “that I will leave that task for others". I am nagged by “how about a press constantly". It is my opinion that it is not right for this task. Squeezing oranges either! So the idea was a take it “anywhere tool", or just simply put it in your pocket. Now, the  geometry of a press is designed utilizing the LAW OF COSINES. The sides of the triangle are the linkage lengths or analogous to the connecting rod and the length of the journal from the center of engine crank shaft axis. The mechanical advantage is as we all know at the absolute top of the stroke. I made a press mounted system long ago and decided, NO! FCIII is a miracle to me, maybe not to some, but it's my answer to a press (linear) mounted piece of gear. This hobby just started while I was getting rid of my toys my family didn't want to inherit. However, demand is high, and the repetitiveness as you indicated is boring thus I am farming the tools out. I told everyone in the December time frame that this was what I would do so get your cheap tools now while they last.
Presently, I am dealing with folks that still understand “handshakes", and quality, something becoming rare in the USA. The Inc. referral was a gift from a out of work shooter, with years of outside tool sales I believe. Most of the tools have gone outside the USA recently, not to Mexico, Russia, Africa, or China, or SEA, but China does hound me with brochures. Regards, Charlie

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mrbill2 posted this 21 May 2010

Hey Charlie

The short answer is I'm just not willing to devote the necessary time to do that. I have been down that road before. I too made and sold tools on Ebay and after awhile I found it was almost like going back to work. I'm retired. I couldn't do the things I like to do more because I had people that wanted tools. Plus the fact that you find yourself making the SAME THING over and over again and again. I like to tinker, make new things, it keeps you interested.

I must say your question surprised me a little. Could it be that you have changed your mind about the reloading press not being able to produce gas checks? You know my tool only works in a reloading press.

Mr. Bill2

mrbill2

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codarnall posted this 19 May 2010

Hey MRBill2 , I get about five e-mails a week for 7/8-14 press mounted check making systems.  This looks cool why don't you offer your system for casters.  I'm not saying advertise here either, just a idea to fill the need.

 -Charlie

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codarnall posted this 14 April 2010

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  This the 223 prototype version folks have ask me to post.

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mrbill2 posted this 05 March 2010

I think the biggest problem with aluminum checks is that no one has the time to make and shoot thousands on aluminum checks to be able to have a concrete answer to all our questions. I make and use aluminum checks for the same reasons others make their own bullet lube. For the small amount of checks I need in one shooting season the cost is small, compared to what I spend on powder, primers and other shooting equipment. Making your own checks, for some has just become part of the hobby.

mrbill2

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.22-10-45 posted this 05 March 2010

hello, I too have thought about making my own gas-checks..mainly for the .22 bore as these seem to be wavy on base. Why can,t we have perfect flat based & uniform  height checks.  I wonder how long the benchrest boys would put up with this if their bullet bases were wavy and jackets longer on one side? Anyway I have read many accounts of aluminum being used for this.  The only concern I have..and I have never seen this in print, is the properties of aluminum.  Most everyone thinks AL. is great for outdoor furniture, window frames, screen doors, etc. because it doesn,t rust.  WRONG! it,s very nature of quickly oxidizing when polished or cut makes it,s use for exposed areas so valuable.  Now this oxidation or rusting if you will is far differen,t than from a ferrous metal. wheras rust on iron or steel is very porous and permits moisture to penetrate & continue the process, that of Al. is very hard and this “skin” will not permit any further oxidation other than a few .0001"  in fact Anodizing is just a method  coating Al. with just such a hard skin...ever try to file that stuff? slips right off like glass.  When a cup is cut out of this Al. what is going to happen to that forward facing edge? Or if the forming die should burnish thru the “skin"?  I cannot be certain but wouldn,t want to use in my pet barrels. Can anyone shed more light on this? thanks guys. this sure is fun.

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CB posted this 21 January 2010

I am looking into buying or building this gas check maker. I need to make for several different calibers and for bullets that are not gas check capable.

I remember when Paco Kelly, along time ago, made his own version to sell to the CBA members.

Jerry

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CB posted this 18 January 2010

Charlie I like the idea of a voice to go with it.. I looked at one of the videos that the fellow used a drill press to punch out the checks, looks like he was using an earlier version of the freechex..

I would have to say that some kind of base would be beneficial and other than using a drill press, one of the small harbor freight arbor presses might work better.

I tried out the one you sent me and it works well. A little time consuming but since it is winter time, what the hell..

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codarnall posted this 18 January 2010

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Any ideas would be appreciated. Charlie

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codarnall posted this 03 January 2010

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My idea of uploading a “talkie".

Charlie

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JetMech posted this 02 January 2010

Thank you for pointing that out, Fred. I did not scroll down to the bottom of the page where that statement is made. If they are, in fact, two different tools, I would think it would have been advertised as a .30 check making tool only. 303, 8mm, .32 use a different size, so the description is deceiving. I'm not a fan of Ebay, so will just wait until someone who takes regular orders for their tool has one available.

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Fred Sinclair posted this 02 January 2010

Dollar Bill wrote: That's fine, if I was looking for a 303 Charlie. Also see there's a 44. Now, if there was one for .30, I'd buy one.

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The following is from the ebay description.

"I will ship the  30 caliber tool by default , .303Brit and 8mm/32 on your request! So please indicate you selection!"

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JetMech posted this 02 January 2010

That's fine, if I was looking for a 303 Charlie. Also see there's a 44. Now, if there was one for .30, I'd buy one.

.>

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codarnall posted this 01 January 2010

Dollar Bill Check this out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230418934712>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230418934712

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mrbill2 posted this 18 December 2009

Jeff

I think I'm set for the new hunting gun class.

Bill

Thanks for the link. I tried to call twice today but couldn't get through. I'll try again monday, if I'm done shoveling the white stuff.

Dollar Bill wrote:

You can buy parts directly from lee. The hard part, sometimes, is finding the part #.

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1261143788.31=/html/catalog/dies-collet.html>http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1261143788.31=/html/catalog/dies-collet.html

This is the page for the neck dies. Next to the listing for the 22 Hornet is a link “service parts". That takes you to the replacement part page. From what I can tell, it's either $8 or $14.

mrbill2

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CB posted this 18 December 2009

mrbill2 wrote: Jeff, controll yourself. That is hard to do sometimes...

Darn nice target Bill! Good Job!

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JetMech posted this 18 December 2009

You can buy parts directly from lee. The hard part, sometimes, is finding the part #.

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1261143788.31=/html/catalog/dies-collet.html>http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1261143788.31=/html/catalog/dies-collet.html

This is the page for the neck dies. Next to the listing for the 22 Hornet is a link “service parts". That takes you to the replacement part page. From what I can tell, it's either $8 or $14.

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mrbill2 posted this 18 December 2009

I'm going to call Lee and see if I can purchase the parts used to make my die. I realy don't want to buy the complete Hornet die and throw the guts away. Making my own die body adds quite a lot of time to the project. I did that with the first one I made.

 

First one made.

 

mrbill2

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JetMech posted this 18 December 2009

You appear to have a winner, there! I would certainly be interested in one. Freechex are nice but I simply do not have the time to surf evilbay waiting to see if I can get a shot at one of Charlie's.

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