LEE Mold Changes

  • 11K Views
  • Last Post 27 July 2013
Pigslayer posted this 06 June 2013

Finally got my new LEE mold today after a 2 month backorder. Saw that LEE has made some cool changes to their mold blocks. They changed the type of alignment pins and it looks to be a welcome change . Also note that LEE is now using Allen screws to fasten their handles to the mold blocks. They are using different shape of extruded aluminum for the mold blocks with beveled edges. Can't wait to cast up some s of these 125 grainers for my .38 Special. See pics.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
Pigslayer posted this 27 July 2013

Duane Mellenbruch wrote: I have several of the “old style” Lee two cavity molds and they have served me well.  I do not have one of the new style molds to compare with but do wonder about a few things.

The photos suggest that the new molds seem to have the handles attached so that the mold blocks extend further past the handle ends.   I am wondering if the support of the closed handles is inadequate. 

Are the blocks fitted to the handles or are they rather loose and allowing the blocks to tilt and rattle like a nearly worn out old set.  I have often thought of making a block and stake tool to slightly displace the mold blocks to “tighten” up the fit of the blocks to the handles and make aligning and closing the mold easier.  I have refrained because I have not been successful in fixing something that is

From the photos, it appears that the pin used to secure the blocks to the handles is a larger diameter than the old style.  Perhaps if Lee had kept the full dimension on the mold blocks, and used the same style pin as originally used, this would not be happening? 

Any real life observations on this?  Thanks in advance.  Duane

 

In response I have to say that the mold halves in the new configuration rattle around like two BB's in a boxcar. There have been many complaints both here and on other shooting forums. Hopefully. . . LEE is paying attention.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

Michael K posted this 27 July 2013

I finally read through the rest of this topic starting after Pat's initial report on the problem that cropped up. I have a few of Lee's older moulds, some push through sizers, and s shell holder set. I once had an Auto Prime that has since replaced with a RCBS unit. How much we spend on is a personal choice after weighing out the pros and cons.

Word of mouth advertising for any company can make or break the product and/or the company and it is much less expensive to keep existing customers happy and loyal than try to attract and get new ones. My opinion on Lee products is guarded, some things I will buy, but if I am in doubt, I will opt for known standards of dependability, durability and customer service.

Mr. Lee, Your customers are trying to do you favor here. Are you listening?

There is difference between products that provide good value for the money and products that are cheap. Hopefully Lee Precision will be wise enough heed the concerns aired here before too much damage is inflicted on their reputation.

Michael.

Attached Files

cbshtr posted this 26 July 2013

I do agree they have a design flaw. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that the block pins should not be distorting the blocks. A little wider block and possibly a better screw would eliminate what we are experiencing.

Robert Homan

Attached Files

MaryB posted this 26 July 2013

Both my new style Lee molds drop easy, slight rap on the handle hinge is all it takes. I thought about sticking the block in a vise to tighten it up on the handle so I don't have to reach over with my right hand to line the blocks up. Slows me down and ruins my rhythm.

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 26 July 2013

cbshtr wrote: My new C312-160TL looks like maryb's. I did get a chance to cast with it today. After over 200 bullets, the molds look the same as when I started. I have a little more polishing and deburring to do as the bullets were hanging up in the one half. A couple lite taps on the handles would drop them. I thought I had them degreased well enough but it did take me awhile to get the remaining grease out and the temperature to stabilize. It appears they may be a harder aluminum than the old style since I didn't tear up the top of the blocks like I usually do though I lubed them them same. Overall, I'm happy with them, for now. Less than 1/1000” out of round and an almost invisable seam line. Can't beat it for less than $20 as long as it proves to be a durable mold with Pigslayer's circumstance being the exception instead of the rule.

 Glad your mold is working out. I cast about 400 really nice bullets before the right half of the mold hit the floor. Keep an eye on the pins that mount the mold to the handles. Never had much of an issue with the bullets dropping out. Just a couple of raps on the hinge pin did it. But mine had a lot of slop in it from the beginning. I just feel that LEE should have done more extensive testing prior to marketing.
 As far as that bulge in the side of the mold block goes . . . A heavier/thicker mold block would have alleviated that and also some high temp Loctite would be the ticket. 
 Please folks, don't get me wrong. I'm not out to boycott LEE Precision and will buy from them again. I'm just not going to buy any more of their molds until they get this situation rectified.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

cbshtr posted this 26 July 2013

My new C312-160TL looks like maryb's. I did get a chance to cast with it today. After over 200 bullets, the molds look the same as when I started. I have a little more polishing and deburring to do as the bullets were hanging up in the one half. A couple lite taps on the handles would drop them. I thought I had them degreased well enough but it did take me awhile to get the remaining grease out and the temperature to stabilize. It appears they may be a harder aluminum than the old style since I didn't tear up the top of the blocks like I usually do though I lubed them them same. Overall, I'm happy with them, for now. Less than 1/1000” out of round and an almost invisable seam line. Can't beat it for less than $20 as long as it proves to be a durable mold with Pigslayer's circumstance being the exception instead of the rule.

Robert Homan

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 25 July 2013

Chargar wrote: John Alexander wrote: Pat wrote:

” Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time."

Pat,

I'm glad you added the “well most of the time.” I have been stung pretty badly with high dollar items as well as sometimes losing in the Harbor Freight crap shoot. Just look at the Consumer Reports reports on reliability of cars. Some of the most expensive are lemons even the ones named after big cats or that advertise “German engineering.” And some at the low price end seem to be bulletproof.

John

I have never owned any kind of luxury car in my life, nor do I intend to so do. I have no love affair with vehicles so I muddle along with a good Ford F150 pickup. I have had to work for every dime I have ever had and so don't throw money away. This is the reason I seldom buy Lee products. They just have no proven to give me good value for my hard earned dollar.

I started reloading in 1958 and still use most of the original equipment. My bench have three old black Pacific C presses (two pre-war and one post-war), a 60's vintage RCBS A2 and a Redding turret. The powder measures are my original Hollywood and a pair of Lyman 55s I picked up along the way.

I have less than $100.00 invested in all three old Pacific presses. I did have to shell out $200 for the A2 and about $150 for the Redding.

I hold the belief that a fellow should be able to buy reloading equipment and have it work right as it comes out of the box. It should continue to do so for his natural life.

There is no luxury in my life of any kind, but I will pay for quality things that last. Well said!

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

Chargar posted this 25 July 2013

John Alexander wrote: Pat wrote:

” Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time."

Pat,

I'm glad you added the “well most of the time.” I have been stung pretty badly with high dollar items as well as sometimes losing in the Harbor Freight crap shoot. Just look at the Consumer Reports reports on reliability of cars. Some of the most expensive are lemons even the ones named after big cats or that advertise “German engineering.” And some at the low price end seem to be bulletproof.

John

I have never owned any kind of luxury car in my life, nor do I intend to so do. I have no love affair with vehicles so I muddle along with a good Ford F150 pickup. I have had to work for every dime I have ever had and so don't throw money away. This is the reason I seldom buy Lee products. They just have no proven to give me good value for my hard earned dollar.

I started reloading in 1958 and still use most of the original equipment. My bench have three old black Pacific C presses (two pre-war and one post-war), a 60's vintage RCBS A2 and a Redding turret. The powder measures are my original Hollywood and a pair of Lyman 55s I picked up along the way.

I have less than $100.00 invested in all three old Pacific presses. I did have to shell out $200 for the A2 and about $150 for the Redding.

I hold the belief that a fellow should be able to buy reloading equipment and have it work right as it comes out of the box. It should continue to do so for his natural life.

There is no luxury in my life of any kind, but I will pay for quality things that last.

Attached Files

99 Strajght posted this 25 July 2013

I have two of the new Lee blocks so I tried to measure as close as I can. The old blocks pin is about .130 in diameter. The new blocks pin is about .157. Both of the holes are about .110 to the center from the edge. That leaves .045 to hold the old block and .032 for the new block to the edge. I have only cast about 200 times in both blocks so far and nothing but good bullets. Bullets drop from the mold almost without a hit. I use a small rubber hammer that I got from Harbor Fright. No pin problem of any kind. Without Lee I would have only about a forth of the molds I have now. No fun in that.  

Attached Files

Duane Mellenbruch posted this 25 July 2013

I have several of the “old style” Lee two cavity molds and they have served me well.  I do not have one of the new style molds to compare with but do wonder about a few things.

The photos suggest that the new molds seem to have the handles attached so that the mold blocks extend further past the handle ends.   I am wondering if the support of the closed handles is inadequate. 

Are the blocks fitted to the handles or are they rather loose and allowing the blocks to tilt and rattle like a nearly worn out old set.  I have often thought of making a block and stake tool to slightly displace the mold blocks to “tighten” up the fit of the blocks to the handles and make aligning and closing the mold easier.  I have refrained because I have not been successful in fixing something that is not broke.

From the photos, it appears that the pin used to secure the blocks to the handles is a larger diameter than the old style.  Perhaps if Lee had kept the full dimension on the mold blocks, and used the same style pin as originally used, this would not be happening? 

Any real life observations on this?  Thanks in advance.  Duane

 

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 25 July 2013

MaryB wrote: I have those same bulges on my brand new Lee Molds, the 452-200 I have to align the block halves by hand a lot to get it to close, they hang so far they won't line back up. My new 312-160TL doesn't show the bulges and has the hex pin. It lines back up a lot better when closing too.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

MaryB posted this 25 July 2013

I have those same bulges on my brand new Lee Molds, the 452-200 I have to align the block halves by hand a lot to get it to close, they hang so far they won't line back up. My new 312-160TL doesn't show the bulges and has the hex pin. It lines back up a lot better when closing too.

Attached Files

mckg posted this 25 July 2013

It sounds like they're getting a bit delusional at LEE, or that they're trying to get out of the mold business... I'm kicking myself for delaying the purchase of a couple of these.... one of them being Ed's design.

Hopefully, the whole LEE family is just on some long vacations right now and they will sort this out when they return.

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

Just called LEE customer service and the old style mold blocks are no longer available. They agree to repair or replace defective molds but the customer will be responsible for shipping charges in sending the mold back to them. I explained to them that it was not really worth my time & money to go that route unless they could supply the old style mold blocks. That being said I informed him that even though I have been a LEE customer for years that from here on in I will have my molds custom made. I informed him that others were having the same issues & that he/they should monitor the various shooting forums. With that I said good-bye.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

Well . . . News flash. Although this is my home base as far as a shooters forum, I do check others from time to time. I was just over at castboolits and found numerous issues with LEE's new mold blocks I.e. pins loosening & mold blocks falling off as with mine, the new alignment pins sliding back & forth in the boring and alignment pins sticking & not allowing the mold to open. C'mon LEE, back to basics! Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

John Alexander posted this 24 July 2013

Pat wrote:

” Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time."

Pat,

I'm glad you added the “well most of the time.” I have been stung pretty badly with high dollar items as well as sometimes losing in the Harbor Freight crap shoot. Just look at the Consumer Reports reports on reliability of cars. Some of the most expensive are lemons even the ones named after big cats or that advertise “German engineering.” And some at the low price end seem to be bulletproof.

John

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

delmarskid1 wrote: I received the Lee .445 double round ball mold. I haven't checked to see if the same situation exists. The bullets fall right out. Who shoots 400 round balls at a crack. It should fill the bill for me for quite a while. Thanks for the heads up Mr. P. I'll be sure to baby this until I figure out how to repair or correct it. I really like the alignment pins on the new molds. If they had up dated the old pattern with the new pins and locators I'd have been happy to pay a little more for the better mold. I agree totally. If they had of just stuck with using the old mold blocks as you mention, they would have been perfect. I would have paid a few more dollars to beef up the mold.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

delmarskid1 posted this 24 July 2013

I received the Lee .445 double round ball mold. I haven't checked to see if the same situation exists. The bullets fall right out. Who shoots 400 round balls at a crack. It should fill the bill for me for quite a while. Thanks for the heads up Mr. P. I'll be sure to baby this until I figure out how to repair or correct it. I really like the alignment pins on the new molds. If they had up dated the old pattern with the new pins and locators I'd have been happy to pay a little more for the better mold.

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

cbshtr wrote: For what its worth I just got 2 of the C312160 molds. I looked at them today after reading your post. On one of the them the bulge from the handle screw is very obvious on one half of the mold but not as much on the other. On the other mold both are faintly noticeable. Haven't tried either one but polished the bad one up today. Hopefully, will try casting in the next few days to see how they perform. Same as mine. Very thin metal between the screw hole & the outside of the mold. Handle with kid gloves. There just isn't enough metal on the extrusion being used. If they had another 1/8” on each side I probably wouldn't have had an issue. Looks as if the setup for the drilling operation was off center. Poor QC.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

cbshtr posted this 23 July 2013

For what its worth I just got 2 of the C312160 molds. I looked at them today after reading your post. On one of the them the bulge from the handle screw is very obvious on one half of the mold but not as much on the other. On the other mold both are faintly noticeable. Haven't tried either one but polished the bad one up today. Hopefully, will try casting in the next few days to see how they perform.

Robert Homan

Attached Files

Show More Posts
Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close